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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Newbie rebuilding small engine. Is this normal?
I have an old cast iron techumseh engine I am trying to rebuild. (The
rod broke). I am putting it back together. At the bottom of the stroke I can hear a sound and there seems to be some slight "play" where the rod does not move the poston any. I think the same at the top of the stroke. Is this a problem or am I being overly cautious? This is my first rebuild and have learned alot but wanted to get your opinion. I have a video posted he http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WG_kcd9VV3Q |
#2
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Newbie rebuilding small engine. Is this normal?
On Wed, 31 Dec 2008 14:43:28 -0800, stryped wrote:
I have an old cast iron techumseh engine I am trying to rebuild. (The rod broke). I am putting it back together. At the bottom of the stroke I can hear a sound and there seems to be some slight "play" where the rod does not move the poston any. I think the same at the top of the stroke. Is this a problem or am I being overly cautious? This is my first rebuild and have learned alot but wanted to get your opinion. I have a video posted he http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WG_kcd9VV3Q This does not sound normal to me. Did you check the rod bearing fit with plastigage? Just a guess, I am no engine mechanic. Terry |
#3
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Newbie rebuilding small engine. Is this normal?
On Dec 31, 5:43*pm, Terry wrote:
On Wed, 31 Dec 2008 14:43:28 -0800, stryped wrote: I have an old cast iron techumseh engine I am trying to rebuild. (The rod broke). I am putting it back together. *At the bottom of the stroke I can hear a sound and there seems to be some slight "play" where the rod does not move the poston any. I think the same at the top of the stroke. Is this a problem or am I being overly cautious? This is my first rebuild and have learned alot but wanted to get your opinion. I have a video posted he http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WG_kcd9VV3Q This does not sound normal to me. Did you check the rod bearing fit with plastigage? Just a guess, I am no engine mechanic. Terry This engine does not use a "bearing" per se. It is just an aluminum rod on the crankshaft. |
#4
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Newbie rebuilding small engine. Is this normal?
On Wed, 31 Dec 2008 16:17:10 -0800, stryped wrote:
On Dec 31, 5:43Â*pm, Terry wrote: On Wed, 31 Dec 2008 14:43:28 -0800, stryped wrote: I have an old cast iron techumseh engine I am trying to rebuild. (The rod broke). I am putting it back together. Â*At the bottom of the stroke I can hear a sound and there seems to be some slight "play" where the rod does not move the poston any. I think the same at the top of the stroke. Is this a problem or am I being overly cautious? This is my first rebuild and have learned alot but wanted to get your opinion. I have a video posted he http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WG_kcd9VV3Q This does not sound normal to me. Did you check the rod bearing fit with plastigage? Just a guess, I am no engine mechanic. Terry This engine does not use a "bearing" per se. It is just an aluminum rod on the crankshaft. Any place where metal rubs metal is a bearing. Period. It may not have a _separate_ bearing, but its still a bearing, and clearances still matter. A slight play top and bottom is not only to be expected, it's pretty much essential -- no play would mean no clearance in the big and little end bearings, which would mean a trashed engine in the near future. The bearing play gets magnified A LOT by the fact that the piston moves not at all at true top dead center and bottom dead center - that's where the 'dead' comes from. So the crank has to move enough into its curve to start pulling on the piston. There shouldn't be much clearance there -- I'm not even going to hazard a guess at what is right, but it's in the single-digit or low double digit thousandths for each bearing. -- Tim Wescott Control systems and communications consulting http://www.wescottdesign.com Need to learn how to apply control theory in your embedded system? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" by Tim Wescott Elsevier/Newnes, http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html |
#5
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Newbie rebuilding small engine. Is this normal?
Tim Wescott wrote:
On Wed, 31 Dec 2008 16:17:10 -0800, stryped wrote: On Dec 31, 5:43 pm, Terry wrote: On Wed, 31 Dec 2008 14:43:28 -0800, stryped wrote: I have an old cast iron techumseh engine I am trying to rebuild. (The rod broke). I am putting it back together. At the bottom of the stroke I can hear a sound and there seems to be some slight "play" where the rod does not move the poston any. I think the same at the top of the stroke. Is this a problem or am I being overly cautious? This is my first rebuild and have learned alot but wanted to get your opinion. I have a video posted he http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WG_kcd9VV3Q This does not sound normal to me. Did you check the rod bearing fit with plastigage? Just a guess, I am no engine mechanic. Terry This engine does not use a "bearing" per se. It is just an aluminum rod on the crankshaft. Any place where metal rubs metal is a bearing. Period. It may not have a _separate_ bearing, but its still a bearing, and clearances still matter. A slight play top and bottom is not only to be expected, it's pretty much essential -- no play would mean no clearance in the big and little end bearings, which would mean a trashed engine in the near future. The bearing play gets magnified A LOT by the fact that the piston moves not at all at true top dead center and bottom dead center - that's where the 'dead' comes from. So the crank has to move enough into its curve to start pulling on the piston. There shouldn't be much clearance there -- I'm not even going to hazard a guess at what is right, but it's in the single-digit or low double digit thousandths for each bearing. Probably on the order of .002-.004 on the big end - looser is better up to a point with a splash lubrication system . Check the fit with plastigage with the piston about halfway up the bore , if it's too loose the rod cap can be filed or lightly sanded to close it up a bit . BE VERY CAUTIOUS if you need to sand or file - a little bit goes a long ways when you're talking thousandths . You must also be cautious to take an even amount off both sides - the mating surfaces MUST be flat and parallel with each other . -- Snag every answer leads to another question |
#6
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Newbie rebuilding small engine. Is this normal?
On Dec 31, 7:15*pm, "Terry Coombs" wrote:
Tim Wescott wrote: On Wed, 31 Dec 2008 16:17:10 -0800, stryped wrote: On Dec 31, 5:43 pm, Terry wrote: On Wed, 31 Dec 2008 14:43:28 -0800, stryped wrote: I have an old cast iron techumseh engine I am trying to rebuild. (The rod broke). I am putting it back together. At the bottom of the stroke I can hear a sound and there seems to be some slight "play" where the rod does not move the poston any. I think the same at the top of the stroke. Is this a problem or am I being overly cautious? This is my first rebuild and have learned alot but wanted to get your opinion. I have a video posted he http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WG_kcd9VV3Q This does not sound normal to me. Did you check the rod bearing fit with plastigage? Just a guess, I am no engine mechanic. Terry This engine does not use a "bearing" per se. It is just an aluminum rod on the crankshaft. Any place where metal rubs metal is a bearing. *Period. *It may not have a _separate_ bearing, but its still a bearing, and clearances still matter. A slight play top and bottom is not only to be expected, it's pretty much essential -- no play would mean no clearance in the big and little end bearings, which would mean a trashed engine in the near future. *The bearing play gets magnified A LOT by the fact that the piston moves not at all at true top dead center and bottom dead center - that's where the 'dead' comes from. *So the crank has to move enough into its curve to start pulling on the piston. There shouldn't be much clearance there -- I'm not even going to hazard a guess at what is right, but it's in the single-digit or low double digit thousandths for each bearing. * Probably on the order of .002-.004 on the big end - looser is better up to a point with a splash lubrication system . Check the fit with plastigage with the piston about halfway up the bore *, if it's too loose the rod cap can be filed or lightly sanded to close it up a bit . BE VERY CAUTIOUS if you need to sand or file - a little bit goes a long ways when you're talking thousandths . You must also be cautious to take an even amount off both sides - the mating surfaces MUST be flat and parallel with each other . -- * Snag * every answer * leads to another * question- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Sorry, I di dnot mean to infer that there was no bearing. It is just that it seems alot of people mean a "main" bearing separate of the rod when you say "rod bearing". I measured the crank journal and it was within specs of my book. The rod is brand new. I went ahead since my last post and put the cam in. The sound is much less pronounced. Where do you think I should go from here? I did not quite understand what you meant about "filing" the bearing. |
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