Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.

Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?

I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. And of course, neither do I.

In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.

Thanks,

Vernon

On Nov 25, 4:23*pm, Vernon wrote:
Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.

Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?

I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. *Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. *And of course, neither do I.

In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. *We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. *Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.

Thanks,

Vernon

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tab%3DWatching

A moment ago, I watched this auction roll by. I was tempted to bid
but did not because I'm clueless as to whether: a) I need most of
this stuff; and/or b) It is suitable for a Bridgeport with R8 collets;
and, c) There are some basic things I need to do before I start buying
tooling (such as get the machine installed).

Now that the temptation is gone I will appreciate hearing your
collective views on this particular lot.

Thanks,
Vernon

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tab%3DWatching

"Vernon" wrote in message
...

Now that the temptation is gone I will appreciate hearing your
collective views on this particular lot.

Thanks,
Vernon

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tab%3DWatching

You didn't miss out on a deal, IMHO. I didn't see any R8 stuff there. Search
for R8. Also keep in mind that there are sources for new useable imported R8
tooling at affordable prices.

On Nov 25, 9:18*pm, "ATP*" wrote:
"Vernon" wrote in message

...

Now that the temptation is gone I will appreciate hearing your
collective views on this particular lot.

Thanks,
Vernon

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...09919446&_trks....

You didn't miss out on a deal, IMHO. I didn't see any R8 stuff there. Search
for R8. Also keep in mind that there are sources for new useable imported R8
tooling at affordable prices.



Just a suggestion based on hard experience... avoid R8 collets,
especially used ones.

Purchase some endmill holders that fix the cutter into position with a
set screw. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" dia, capacity will suffice.
Maybe a face mill arbor and a fly cutter. Add a boring head later.

To hold the cutter in its holder back-out the set screw until the end
mill slips in, visually align the flat on the end mill with the set
screw; for the first few times it may be worthwhile to take out the
set screw so that you can see the flat in location. Replace screw and
snug it up, make sure the screw bears on the flat! Now loosen the
screw very slightly and pull the end mill out until it stops. Now re-
tighten the set screw firmly, and you are good to go.

The reason for this song-and-dance is that end mills tent to pull out
of the holder in use, having it tight against the screw stops this.

If you must use R8 collets get new ones... they are pretty cheap.
With larger shank cutters, say 1/2" and up in diameter the draw bar
requires very hard tightening to prevent the end mill from walking out
of the collet during use.

Used collets are probably bell-mouthed which aggravates this
condition.

Wolfgang

On Nov 25, 9:10*pm, wrote:
On Nov 25, 9:18*pm, "ATP*" wrote:

"Vernon" wrote in message

...

Now that the temptation is gone I will appreciate hearing your
collective views on this particular lot.

Thanks,
Vernon

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...09919446&_trks....

You didn't miss out on a deal, IMHO. I didn't see any R8 stuff there. Search
for R8. Also keep in mind that there are sources for new useable imported R8
tooling at affordable prices.

Just a suggestion based on hard experience... avoid R8 collets,
especially used ones.

Purchase some endmill holders that fix the cutter into position with a
set screw. *1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" dia, capacity will suffice.
Maybe a face mill arbor and a fly cutter. *Add a boring head later.

To hold the cutter in its holder back-out the set screw until the end
mill slips in, visually align the flat on the end mill with the set
screw; *for the first few times it may be worthwhile to take out the
set screw so that you can see the flat in location. *Replace screw and
snug it up, make sure the screw bears on the flat! *Now loosen the
screw very slightly and pull the end mill out until it stops. *Now re-
tighten the set screw firmly, and you are good to go.

The reason for this song-and-dance is that end mills tent to pull out
of the holder in use, * having it tight against the screw stops this.

If you must use R8 collets get new ones... they are pretty cheap.
With larger shank cutters, say 1/2" and up in diameter the draw bar
requires very hard tightening to prevent the end mill from walking out
of the collet during use.

Used collets are probably bell-mouthed which aggravates this
condition.

Wolfgang

Wolfgang. I'm sorry but I don't understand. I thought you had to use
whatever taper the mill was manufactured with. In this case it's a
Bridgeport 2J series 1, 2 hp mill with R8 collets. Are you talking
about some kind of adapter?

Vernon

Vernon wrote:
(...)

Wolfgang. I'm sorry but I don't understand. I thought you had to use
whatever taper the mill was manufactured with. In this case it's a
Bridgeport 2J series 1, 2 hp mill with R8 collets. Are you talking
about some kind of adapter?

Vernon

An end mill holder can be though of as a specialized collet.
They look and act similarly.
The difference lies in the fact that the end mill holder
does not contract radially as does the collet.
Instead, the holder has a setscrew that is used to clamp
the end mill in place.

They are more secure than collets for holding end mills,
particularly in the larger diameters.

--Winston

wrote:


The reason for this song-and-dance is that end mills tent to pull out
of the holder in use, having it tight against the screw stops this.

If you must use R8 collets get new ones... they are pretty cheap.
With larger shank cutters, say 1/2" and up in diameter the draw bar
requires very hard tightening to prevent the end mill from walking out
of the collet during use.

Used collets are probably bell-mouthed which aggravates this
condition.

Wolfgang

The longer the end mill sticks out the worse it gets... Then the next
thing you see is some poor fellow stripping the drawbar threads???

When I am using collets I put the flute just short of the collet (even
the super TG types) and just tighten moderately. Cleanliness is vital
(I'm ANAL about clenliness).

If can't get a close grip then "plan B" is an end mill holder or collet
extension for odd sizes.

Matt

On 2008-11-25, Vernon wrote:
Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.

Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?

I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. And of course, neither do I.

In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.

R8 tooling is easy to recognize, I am not sure what is the problem.

To test whether a garage or estate seller knows what he is selling,
there is a simple trick. Take what you are interested in, make a
stupid face, and ask the seller "this looks neat, do you know what it
is" and then await the response.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Nov 26, 7:48*am, Ignoramus20222 ignoramus20...@NOSPAM.
20222.invalid wrote:
On 2008-11-25, Vernon wrote:

Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.

Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?

I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. *Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. *And of course, neither do I.

In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. *We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. *Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.

R8 tooling is easy to recognize, I am not sure what is the problem.

To test whether a garage or estate seller knows what he is selling,
there is a simple trick. Take what you are interested in, make a
stupid face, and ask the seller "this looks neat, do you know what it
is" and then await the response.

--
* *Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
* * * to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
* * * *from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
* * * * *more readers you will need to find a different means of
* * * * * * * * * * * *posting on Usenet.
* * * * * * * * * *http://improve-usenet.org/



Vernon,

R8 describes the internal configuration of your spindle nose, ie. that
hole that accepts the tooling/adapter. I believe that the R8 spindle
nose is exclusive to Bridgeport.

Other standard spindle noses are Morse tapers, which vary from #0
(smallest) to #5 (largest I think). These are mostly found in lathes,
larger drill presses, and small imported milling machines.

On larger milling machines you would find a standard milling machine
taper, from #30 (smallest) to #60 (largest I have seen on a 100 HP
spindle).

Then there are 8mm collet for watch maker's lathes, followed by all
the other "standards" of which there are dozens.

The ones I listed are STANDARD, made to accurate tolerances so that
any tooling made to the same standard and tolerances will always fit,
regardless of who made it.

Now then a collet, more complete name would be "split collet", holds
the tool when it is drawn into a tapered bore thus closing the collet
bore onto the tool shank.

An endmill holder is not split, but has a bore that accepts the
endmill shank with very little clearance. The endmill is held by
tightening a setscew in the holder, as described earlier.

Except for drill presses where the tool loading is always axial thus
pressing the tool/holder into the spindle nose, all collets, holders,
adapters, etc. need to be held in position in the spindle nose because
side loading forces from milling will cause the adapter to "walk-out"
from the spindle bore.

This holding is most often accomplished by a draw bar that extends
axially through the length of the entire spindle, and is usually
tightened by hand. This is the case in your Bridgeport mill. These
draw bars occasionally break... they are highly stressed items and
replacements are available. Large machines have motorized draw
bars...

Trust this helps... The advice given above is excellent, especially
cleanliness.

Wolfgang

On Nov 26, 7:48*am, Ignoramus20222 ignoramus20...@NOSPAM.
20222.invalid wrote:
On 2008-11-25, Vernon wrote:

Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.

Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?

I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. *Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. *And of course, neither do I.

In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. *We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. *Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.

R8 tooling is easy to recognize, I am not sure what is the problem.

To test whether a garage or estate seller knows what he is selling,
there is a simple trick. Take what you are interested in, make a
stupid face, and ask the seller "this looks neat, do you know what it
is" and then await the response.

--
* *Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
* * * to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
* * * *from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
* * * * *more readers you will need to find a different means of
* * * * * * * * * * * *posting on Usenet.
* * * * * * * * * *http://improve-usenet.org/


Vernon,

Missed your main point.

Any and all tooling/adapters that fit your Bridgeport spindle must
have the EXTERNAL R8 configuration. It is easy to recognize once you
are familiar with it. If commercially made R8 is R8 and ought to
always fit.

Wolfgang

wrote:
On Nov 26, 7:48 am, Ignoramus20222 ignoramus20...@NOSPAM.
20222.invalid wrote:

On 2008-11-25, Vernon wrote:


Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.

Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?

I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. And of course, neither do I.

In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.

R8 tooling is easy to recognize, I am not sure what is the problem.

To test whether a garage or estate seller knows what he is selling,
there is a simple trick. Take what you are interested in, make a
stupid face, and ask the seller "this looks neat, do you know what it
is" and then await the response.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/




Vernon,

R8 describes the internal configuration of your spindle nose, ie. that
hole that accepts the tooling/adapter. I believe that the R8 spindle
nose is exclusive to Bridgeport.

Other standard spindle noses are Morse tapers, which vary from #0
(smallest) to #5 (largest I think). These are mostly found in lathes,
larger drill presses, and small imported milling machines.

On larger milling machines you would find a standard milling machine
taper, from #30 (smallest) to #60 (largest I have seen on a 100 HP
spindle).

Then there are 8mm collet for watch maker's lathes, followed by all
the other "standards" of which there are dozens.

The ones I listed are STANDARD, made to accurate tolerances so that
any tooling made to the same standard and tolerances will always fit,
regardless of who made it.

Now then a collet, more complete name would be "split collet", holds
the tool when it is drawn into a tapered bore thus closing the collet
bore onto the tool shank.

An endmill holder is not split, but has a bore that accepts the
endmill shank with very little clearance. The endmill is held by
tightening a setscew in the holder, as described earlier.

You've mentioned the setscrew holders which are available in the UK, but
also commonly available in the UK is the Clarkson Autolock holder and
copies which use cutters with a threaded end and I understand are more
accurate and better for smaller cutters. Are the Clarkson style not
readily available in the US?.


Except for drill presses where the tool loading is always axial thus
pressing the tool/holder into the spindle nose, all collets, holders,
adapters, etc. need to be held in position in the spindle nose because
side loading forces from milling will cause the adapter to "walk-out"
from the spindle bore.

This holding is most often accomplished by a draw bar that extends
axially through the length of the entire spindle, and is usually
tightened by hand. This is the case in your Bridgeport mill. These
draw bars occasionally break... they are highly stressed items and
replacements are available. Large machines have motorized draw
bars...

Trust this helps... The advice given above is excellent, especially
cleanliness.

Wolfgang

R8 is used on many different mills than Bridgeport.
It is larger than most.

Modern mills have a new standard and have massive spindles
and collets.

Martin

wrote:
On Nov 26, 7:48 am, Ignoramus20222 ignoramus20...@NOSPAM.
20222.invalid wrote:
On 2008-11-25, Vernon wrote:

Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.
Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?
I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. And of course, neither do I.
In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.
R8 tooling is easy to recognize, I am not sure what is the problem.

To test whether a garage or estate seller knows what he is selling,
there is a simple trick. Take what you are interested in, make a
stupid face, and ask the seller "this looks neat, do you know what it
is" and then await the response.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/



Vernon,

R8 describes the internal configuration of your spindle nose, ie. that
hole that accepts the tooling/adapter. I believe that the R8 spindle
nose is exclusive to Bridgeport.

Other standard spindle noses are Morse tapers, which vary from #0
(smallest) to #5 (largest I think). These are mostly found in lathes,
larger drill presses, and small imported milling machines.

On larger milling machines you would find a standard milling machine
taper, from #30 (smallest) to #60 (largest I have seen on a 100 HP
spindle).

Then there are 8mm collet for watch maker's lathes, followed by all
the other "standards" of which there are dozens.

The ones I listed are STANDARD, made to accurate tolerances so that
any tooling made to the same standard and tolerances will always fit,
regardless of who made it.

Now then a collet, more complete name would be "split collet", holds
the tool when it is drawn into a tapered bore thus closing the collet
bore onto the tool shank.

An endmill holder is not split, but has a bore that accepts the
endmill shank with very little clearance. The endmill is held by
tightening a setscew in the holder, as described earlier.

Except for drill presses where the tool loading is always axial thus
pressing the tool/holder into the spindle nose, all collets, holders,
adapters, etc. need to be held in position in the spindle nose because
side loading forces from milling will cause the adapter to "walk-out"
from the spindle bore.

This holding is most often accomplished by a draw bar that extends
axially through the length of the entire spindle, and is usually
tightened by hand. This is the case in your Bridgeport mill. These
draw bars occasionally break... they are highly stressed items and
replacements are available. Large machines have motorized draw
bars...

Trust this helps... The advice given above is excellent, especially
cleanliness.

Wolfgang

On Nov 25, 11:49*pm, Winston wrote:
Vernon wrote:

(...)

Wolfgang. *I'm sorry but I don't understand. *I thought you had to use
whatever taper the mill was manufactured with. *In this case it's a
Bridgeport 2J series 1, 2 hp mill with R8 collets. *Are you talking
about some kind of adapter?

Vernon

An end mill holder can be though of as a specialized collet.
They look and act similarly.
The difference lies in the fact that the end mill holder
does not contract radially as does the collet.
Instead, the holder has a setscrew that is used to clamp
the end mill in place.

They are more secure than collets for holding end mills,
particularly in the larger diameters.

--Winston

Wolfgang and Winston. It finally sank in. God, it's tough being
spatially challenged! As soon as we get the machine wired in I'll go
on a tooling shopping spree.

V

Vernon wrote:
(...)

Wolfgang and Winston. It finally sank in. God, it's tough being
spatially challenged! As soon as we get the machine wired in I'll go
on a tooling shopping spree.

We're all here to learn.

You're gonna love making stuff on the mill!

--Winston

On Nov 27, 10:38*pm, Winston wrote:
Vernon wrote:

(...)

Wolfgang and Winston. *It finally sank in. *God, it's tough being
spatially challenged! *As soon as we get the machine wired in I'll go
on a tooling shopping spree.

We're all here to learn.

You're gonna love making stuff on the mill!

--Winston



Happy to be able to help.

Let us know how you make out.

Wolfgang

On Nov 28, 9:10*am, wrote:
On Nov 27, 10:38*pm, Winston wrote:

Vernon wrote:

(...)

Wolfgang and Winston. *It finally sank in. *God, it's tough being
spatially challenged! *As soon as we get the machine wired in I'll go
on a toolingshoppingspree.

We're all here to learn.

You're gonna love making stuff on the mill!

--Winston

Happy to be able to help.

Let us know how you make out.

Wolfgang

Winston and Wolfgang (or anybody else!) I do have another question
about "R8" cutting tool holders and the tools they hold. Would the
tools that sold on the ebay auction link I included at the beginning
of this thread have worked? I noticed that those tools had flats on
'em. It seemed like a lot of tools for less than $200. Thanks!
Vernon

Vernon wrote:
(...)

Winston and Wolfgang (or anybody else!) I do have another question
about "R8" cutting tool holders and the tools they hold. Would the
tools that sold on the ebay auction link I included at the beginning
of this thread have worked? I noticed that those tools had flats on
'em. It seemed like a lot of tools for less than $200. Thanks!
Vernon

This one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tab%3DWatching

I must be getting blinder because I didn't see any R8 - specific
items in that collection. I saw drills, cutters and reamers that
would work in an R8 collet, but no collets, endmill holders or boring heads.

I'm glad you spotted the flats on the milling cutters. That is the
surface the setscrew bears upon to secure it in the endmill holder.

As others have said, collets are best bought new.
They aren't all that expensive even for decent quality tools.

--Winston

On Nov 30, 12:50*pm, Winston wrote:
Vernon wrote:

(...)

Winston and Wolfgang (or anybody else!) *I do have another question
about "R8" cutting tool holders and the tools they hold. *Would the
tools that sold on the ebay auction link I included at the beginning
of this thread have worked? *I noticed that those tools had flats on
'em. *It seemed like a lot of tools for less than $200. *Thanks!
Vernon

This one?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...09919446&_trks...

I must be getting blinder because I didn't see any R8 - *specific
items in that collection. I saw drills, cutters and reamers that
would work in an R8 collet, but no collets, endmill holders or boring heads.

I'm glad you spotted the flats on the milling cutters. *That is the
surface the setscrew bears upon to secure it in the endmill holder.

As others have said, collets are best bought new.
They aren't all that expensive even for decent quality tools.

--Winston



Vernon,

R8 endmill holders and split collets, as described earlier, are only
suitable to hold tool shanks of a specific diameter, such as 1/4",
3/8", 1/2", 5/8", & 3/4", or hard millimeter equivalent. It is
VITALLY important that the tool shank be within +/- .001" or so of the
collet size and burr-free!... much greater variation in diameter may
deform the collet or hold the tool less securely. For the endmill
holder with set screw the shank obviously has to fit into the hole,
but you don't want too much clearance here either. If the shank is
too small the cutter will orbit or run eccentrically in the holder,
this can be detected by the shiny wear marks left on the tool shank.
Note that the shank of QUALITY endmills is usually ground to the
nominal dia. +.0000" -.0005".

On small dia. endmills any eccentricity will lead quickly to dulling
the cutter or breaking it because one cutting edge may do all the
cutting:

Suppose a 1/4" dia, endmill is turning with a run-out of .005" total
indicator reading (TIR),which means its axis has an eccentricity of .
0025" from the machine spindle. The chip-per-tooth load is about .
002" CPI. With automatic feed set to a speed of: {(rpm spindle) x (#
of teeth on cutter) x (CPI) = (feed in inches/minute)} one tooth would
cut at .004" per rev. This overloads one tooth and would probably
break the cutter.

Hence my admonition: Large cutters with shank dia. of say 1/2" and up
are better held in endmill holders (more secure) while small cutters
are better off in collets (better concentricity). Really small
cutters should be checked with a test indicator to verify acceptable
run-out. Where run-out is unavoidable reduce the feed to an
acceptable chip load per tooth.

In-between shank sizes are usually held in drill chucks; typically
drills and reamers fall into this category. Note that drill chucks
should not be used for milling because the side forces will walk the
chuck off its taper shank.

On occasion it may be necessary to hold a drill in a collet because of
space restrictions, especially in a small milling machine. If the
drill is 1/64" or 1/32" smaller that the standard-sized collet the
difference in dia. may be made up with a sleeve bent from shim stock .
008" or .015" thick respectively.

Feels like I am back in college lecturing:-)).

Wolfgang

On Sun, 30 Nov 2008 09:13:34 -0800 (PST), Vernon
wrote:


Winston and Wolfgang (or anybody else!) I do have another question
about "R8" cutting tool holders and the tools they hold. Would the
tools that sold on the ebay auction link I included at the beginning
of this thread have worked? I noticed that those tools had flats on
'em. It seemed like a lot of tools for less than $200. Thanks!
Vernon

From reading some of the responses it looks to me as though most folks
are getting hung up on the R8 bit of your query. There doesn't appear
to be any R8 *specific* tooling in that ebay auction, but there is
plenty that would be useful (1) with a machine with an R8 spindle. In
other words, none of it has a built-in R8 shank, but lots could be
held in R8 collets or toolholders. The flats you see on the milling
cutters are for the set screw in a toolholder -- this is sometimes
referred to as a Weldon shank.

A minimal set of R8 collets should include 3/16, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 and
3/4. That'll cover the vast majority of high speed steel endmills
you're likely to encounter. Add 1/8, 1/4, and 5/16 if you want to run
small carbide endmills.

(1) Useful if the tools are sharp, and remain sharp after being tossed
in a box and making a cross-country UPS trip. That's a very big "if."
I'd avoid auctions like that unless you can inspect the stuff in
person, and have the experience to tell the difference between sharp,
marginally useful, and uselessly dull cutters.

--
Ned Simmons

On Dec 1, 1:25*pm, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Sun, 30 Nov 2008 09:13:34 -0800 (PST), Vernon
wrote:

Winston and Wolfgang (or anybody else!) *I do have another question
about "R8" cutting tool holders and the tools they hold. *Would the
tools that sold on the ebay auction link I included at the beginning
of this thread have worked? *I noticed that those tools had flats on
'em. *It seemed like a lot of tools for less than $200. *Thanks!
Vernon

From reading some of the responses it looks to me as though most folks
are getting hung up on the R8 bit of your query. There doesn't appear
to be any R8 *specific* tooling in that ebay auction, but there is
plenty that would be useful (1) with a machine with an R8 spindle. In
other words, none of it has a built-in R8 shank, but lots could be
held in R8 collets or toolholders. The flats you see on the milling
cutters are for the set screw in a toolholder -- this is sometimes
referred to as a Weldon shank.

A minimal set of R8 collets should include 3/16, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 and
3/4. That'll cover the vast majority of high speed steel endmills
you're likely to encounter. Add 1/8, 1/4, and 5/16 if you want to run
small carbide endmills.

(1) Useful if the tools are sharp, and remain sharp after being tossed
in a box and making a cross-country UPS trip. That's a very big "if."
I'd avoid auctions like that unless you can inspect the stuff in
person, and have the experience to tell the difference between sharp,
marginally useful, and uselessly dull cutters.

--
Ned Simmons

God, I love this group. Your responses are extremely educational.
Thank you!

Vernon

On Nov 25, 5:23*pm, Vernon wrote:
Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.

Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?

I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. *Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. *And of course, neither do I.

In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. *We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. *Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.

Thanks,

Vernon


Just a small correction to my last post:

Chip per tooth = CPT. The CPI given above is erroneous. Stupid
computers:-)).

Vernon, when you are up-and-running and dulled or burned a few
endmills, get back to us and ask about the correct cutter rpm for a
given machining set-up.

The spindle rpm is not a guess and by gum figure but bears a definite
relationship to materials of cutter & work piece, and their diameter;
the tool dia. in case of mill and drill press, the work dia. in case
of lathe, (vertical or horizontal).

Wolfgang

On Tue, 2 Dec 2008 08:58:11 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Nov 25, 5:23*pm, Vernon wrote:
Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.

Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?

I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. *Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. *And of course, neither do I.

In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. *We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. *Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.

Thanks,

Vernon


Just a small correction to my last post:

Chip per tooth = CPT. The CPI given above is erroneous. Stupid
computers:-)).

You need the Do What I Mean (DWIM) key!

Vernon, when you are up-and-running and dulled or burned a few
endmills, get back to us and ask about the correct cutter rpm for a
given machining set-up.

The spindle rpm is not a guess and by gum figure but bears a definite
relationship to materials of cutter & work piece, and their diameter;
the tool dia. in case of mill and drill press, the work dia. in case
of lathe, (vertical or horizontal).

Wolfgang
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 19:44:51 -0500, Gerald Miller
wrote:

On Tue, 2 Dec 2008 08:58:11 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Nov 25, 5:23*pm, Vernon wrote:
Being a clueless newby I am not clear on what tooling works with which
mills.

Am I correct that what varies is the COLLET taper but that the tools
themselves are interchangeable provided you have a collet with the
proper nominal diameter to hold the tool?

I ask this question because I'm hoping to find deals on tooling at
estate sales. *Sometimes the seller, being an heir, doesn't have a
clue. *And of course, neither do I.

In my case our machine is an old Bridgeport with R8 taper. *We have
neither collets nor any tooling for it. *Therefore, I'm hoping to find
useful tooling at a price I can afford.

Thanks,

Vernon


Just a small correction to my last post:

Chip per tooth = CPT. The CPI given above is erroneous. Stupid
computers:-)).

You need the Do What I Mean (DWIM) key!

It's right beside the ANY key

Vernon, when you are up-and-running and dulled or burned a few
endmills, get back to us and ask about the correct cutter rpm for a
given machining set-up.

The spindle rpm is not a guess and by gum figure but bears a definite
relationship to materials of cutter & work piece, and their diameter;
the tool dia. in case of mill and drill press, the work dia. in case
of lathe, (vertical or horizontal).

Wolfgang
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada