I'm considering tooling up for surface mount devices and
How much is this going to cost?

I'd be doing it is stages .
Soldering de-soldering of discrete devices then for instance tool up
test gear probes then chip probes and blocks.

Anyone tooled up for surface mount care to go through the initial kit
they got, capital outlays, how much it is used and if it has been
profitable or not. What is considered essential kit to start with?

--
Z
Remove all Zeds in e-mail address to reply.

And a few extra points
If you can't get the tugging wires under the IC then pass
under a few pins at each corner.
Because this tugging frees the IC at the earlies moment the solder
on the board is not fully melted and leaves a profile for localising
the new IC in place and then solder pin by pin

Hakko makes a tool, the Mach-FP which is inexpensive for SMD removal. Some
practice is required to become proficient with this tool, however I've been
using one for almost 7 years now and haven't damaged any PCB's.
http://www.hakkousa.com/products.asp?PID=Mach-FP&page=1
Handpiece with the tips runs about $250 USD. SMD components can be
reinstalled with a standard soldering iron easily with the appropriate
technique.


--
Jammy Harbin
J & J Electronics, Inc.
227 S. 4th St.
Selmer, TN 38375
731-645-3311
"N Cook" wrote in message
...
And a few extra points
If you can't get the tugging wires under the IC then pass
under a few pins at each corner.
Because this tugging frees the IC at the earlies moment the solder
on the board is not fully melted and leaves a profile for localising
the new IC in place and then solder pin by pin

Hi!

I've used JBC products for PC mainboard repair, a lot cheaper than
others. Used it for QFPs and PLCCs. It costs US$ 2,390 with all
accessories for the JT7000
(http://www.howardelectronics.com/jbc/jt7000.html) . I've evaluated
other brands, they don't come close with ease of use. A medium sized QFP
can be removed in 20 secs! Quick removal translates to less PCB/chip
damage.

Removing the SMT part is the easy part, profitabilty is another.

Regards.

Thanks for the tips. S/M is not something I do much of so buying the the
kit is a bit on the extravagant side just now.

I had a look on your tips section of your website. The book tips about a
third of the way down http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/tips2.htm ; have the
repairs held up over two to three years?

--
Z
Remove all Zeds in e-mail address to reply.

If you mean the anti-acidic treatment.
Yes seems to halt the rot, reduces the browning but
perhaps black print is less black and the wet process does ruin any binding.
As confirmation I still do it now and again to different books

electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse

Nigel, Diverse Devices,Southampton, England

If you mean the anti-acidic treatment.
Yes seems to halt the rot, reduces the browning but
perhaps black print is less black and the wet process does ruin any
binding.
As confirmation I still do it now and again to different books

electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse

Nigel, Diverse Devices,Southampton, England


I just tried some universal indicator for the pH of this first treated
Brimar valve databook,3 years ago now, is still about pH 9.5 The paper feels
more supple ie less brittle than before treatment, no trace of continued
edge fraying.