New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right now
I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever to sand
all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old axes etc, that
are really bad. Too give you an idea of what I'm doing. I have a sand
blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in south TX. I've read about the
battery charger and baking soda method, anyone know how large a charger is
needed and does it work or harm the parent metal?
thanks
-------------------------------------




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On 2008-11-23, Old Chipper wrote:

New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right now
I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever to sand
all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old axes etc, that
are really bad. Too give you an idea of what I'm doing. I have a sand
blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in south TX. I've read about the
battery charger and baking soda method, anyone know how large a charger is
needed and does it work or harm the parent metal?

I tried electrolytic method and found it cumbersome and inconsistent.

I use diluted muriatic acid these days and it works very well for
me. Easy and works in every crevice. The post-treatment handling is
all-important, basically you need to dry the part as soon as possible,
and either oil it or paint it depending on your use of it.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Iggy is right diluted muratic is fast and cheap, wants to re-rust. I stop it
with a squirt of purple engine cleaner (strong caustic) after a water rinse.
Still need to oil or paint.

For many parts I like phosphoric acid better. I buy it already diluted as
"Lime Away" cleaner at my local Fleet Farm. This works differently, it
converts rust to a black iron compound that won't re-rust. If you'd rather
pay more, you can get the same chemistry in Naval Jelly or rusty metal prep.

The electrolytic method others have mentioned is best for a small amount of
rust on a delicate part.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
Iggy is right diluted muratic is fast and cheap, wants to re-rust. I stop it
with a squirt of purple engine cleaner (strong caustic) after a water rinse.
Still need to oil or paint.

For many parts I like phosphoric acid better. I buy it already diluted as
"Lime Away" cleaner at my local Fleet Farm. This works differently, it
converts rust to a black iron compound that won't re-rust. If you'd rather
pay more, you can get the same chemistry in Naval Jelly or rusty metal prep.

The electrolytic method others have mentioned is best for a small amount of
rust on a delicate part.

Karl



Define "small amount of rust" I have used electrolytic cleaning on car
frames, trailer frames and entire body shells.

The catch is knowing what to use. Baking soda doesn't work very well.
What you want to use is Washing Soda, AKA Sodium Carbonate, AKA PH Plus
pool chemical.

Fill the container with water. Now attach the wires to the parts and
toss them in the water. Now add the washing soda to the water until you
hit the maximum current those parts require (just watch the needle on
the power supply/charger) when the needle stops rising stop adding chemical.


--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Karl Townsend wrote:
Iggy is right diluted muratic is fast and cheap, wants to re-rust. I stop
it with a squirt of purple engine cleaner (strong caustic) after a water
rinse. Still need to oil or paint.

For many parts I like phosphoric acid better. I buy it already diluted as
"Lime Away" cleaner at my local Fleet Farm. This works differently, it
converts rust to a black iron compound that won't re-rust. If you'd
rather pay more, you can get the same chemistry in Naval Jelly or rusty
metal prep.

The electrolytic method others have mentioned is best for a small amount
of rust on a delicate part.

Karl



Define "small amount of rust" I have used electrolytic cleaning on car
frames, trailer frames and entire body shells.

The catch is knowing what to use. Baking soda doesn't work very well. What
you want to use is Washing Soda, AKA Sodium Carbonate, AKA PH Plus pool
chemical.

Fill the container with water. Now attach the wires to the parts and toss
them in the water. Now add the washing soda to the water until you hit the
maximum current those parts require (just watch the needle on the power
supply/charger) when the needle stops rising stop adding chemical.

I find that by using a warm solution, the process works better and of course
faster.
Rick

Define "small amount of rust" I have used electrolytic cleaning on car
frames, trailer frames and entire body shells.

I don't mean to say it won't work. Just less trouble to clean a frame with
muratic acid or a body panel with phosphoric acid. These materials are
faster but a bit too rough on something delicate.

Karl

"Old Chipper" wrote in message
om...

New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right now
I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever to sand
all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old axes etc, that
are really bad. Too give you an idea of what I'm doing. I have a sand
blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in south TX. I've read about the
battery charger and baking soda method, anyone know how large a charger is
needed and does it work or harm the parent metal?
thanks

Google "electrolysis rust removal". I've used it on a number of rusted
parts, does not harm the parent metal.

Old Chipper had written this in response to
http://www.www.rittercnc.com/metalwo...rs-152777-.htm :


-------------------------------------
72 Mach1 wrote:

Google "electrolysis rust removal". I've used it on a number
of rusted
parts, does not harm the parent metal.



Think I'll try it.
Can you reuse the mixture or do you start new each time? Also put a few
parts in a 50-50 mix of molasses and water. Found this on another forum
hope it will work, had to give it a try sounds to strange to work, will
post the results, later.
thanks









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"Old Chipper" wrote in message
om...
Old Chipper had written this in response to
http://www.www.rittercnc.com/metalwo...rs-152777-.htm :


-------------------------------------
72 Mach1 wrote:

Google "electrolysis rust removal". I've used it on a number
of rusted
parts, does not harm the parent metal.



Think I'll try it.
Can you reuse the mixture or do you start new each time? Also put a few
parts in a 50-50 mix of molasses and water. Found this on another forum
hope it will work, had to give it a try sounds to strange to work, will
post the results, later.
thanks

Ted Edwards (where is Ted these days?), who apparently knows a lot about
chemistry and plating/derusting, posted his formula to the dropbox some
years ago:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...es/E-CLEAN.TXT

This is for "brush" type removal, rather than the tank method. I use it all
the time and it works brilliantly. My power supply is a 4-Amp automotive
battery charger. Since I had some EDM graphite on hand, I sawed off a slab
for use as the electrode. But a graphite rod available from welding
suppliers should be handier.

The formula is a bit more complicated than might be necessary, but Ted knows
electrochemistry and I don't, so I follow his formula.

As for the tank method, yes, you can keep re-using the mixture until it's
full of crud.

The black oxide that remains is similar to that left by phosphoric acid when
you use phosphoric (Naval Jelly or pool acid) on thick rust, but it brushes
off much more easily. I use a small stainless brush. Sometimes I've used
muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to finish it off, but only if I'm going to
paint afterward.

--
Ed Huntress

Ted hasn't shown his presence here for quite some time, Ed, more than a year
and possibly closer to 2 years.

He is very knowlegable in many areas, and helped me by providing his Gears
program for Smithy 3in1 machines, for threading 27 tpi.

I think someone here is a close acquaintence of Ted, maybe one of the guys
from the northern plains states.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

Ted Edwards (where is Ted these days?), who apparently knows a lot about
chemistry and plating/derusting, posted his formula to the dropbox some
years ago:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...es/E-CLEAN.TXT

This is for "brush" type removal, rather than the tank method. I use it
all the time and it works brilliantly. My power supply is a 4-Amp
automotive battery charger. Since I had some EDM graphite on hand, I sawed
off a slab for use as the electrode. But a graphite rod available from
welding suppliers should be handier.

The formula is a bit more complicated than might be necessary, but Ted
knows electrochemistry and I don't, so I follow his formula.

As for the tank method, yes, you can keep re-using the mixture until it's
full of crud.

The black oxide that remains is similar to that left by phosphoric acid
when you use phosphoric (Naval Jelly or pool acid) on thick rust, but it
brushes off much more easily. I use a small stainless brush. Sometimes
I've used muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to finish it off, but only if I'm
going to paint afterward.

--
Ed Huntress

"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Ted hasn't shown his presence here for quite some time, Ed, more than a
year and possibly closer to 2 years.

He is very knowlegable in many areas, and helped me by providing his Gears
program for Smithy 3in1 machines, for threading 27 tpi.

I think someone here is a close acquaintence of Ted, maybe one of the guys
from the northern plains states.

--
WB

Well, he's missed. He has some pretty sophisticated knowledge.

--
Ed Huntress


.........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

Ted Edwards (where is Ted these days?), who apparently knows a lot about
chemistry and plating/derusting, posted his formula to the dropbox some
years ago:

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...es/E-CLEAN.TXT

This is for "brush" type removal, rather than the tank method. I use it
all the time and it works brilliantly. My power supply is a 4-Amp
automotive battery charger. Since I had some EDM graphite on hand, I
sawed off a slab for use as the electrode. But a graphite rod available
from welding suppliers should be handier.

The formula is a bit more complicated than might be necessary, but Ted
knows electrochemistry and I don't, so I follow his formula.

As for the tank method, yes, you can keep re-using the mixture until it's
full of crud.

The black oxide that remains is similar to that left by phosphoric acid
when you use phosphoric (Naval Jelly or pool acid) on thick rust, but it
brushes off much more easily. I use a small stainless brush. Sometimes
I've used muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to finish it off, but only if I'm
going to paint afterward.

--
Ed Huntress

Old Chipper wrote:
Old Chipper had written this in response to
http://www.www.rittercnc.com/metalwo...rs-152777-.htm :


-------------------------------------
72 Mach1 wrote:

Google "electrolysis rust removal". I've used it on a number
of rusted
parts, does not harm the parent metal.



Think I'll try it.
Can you reuse the mixture or do you start new each time? Also put a few
parts in a 50-50 mix of molasses and water. Found this on another forum
hope it will work, had to give it a try sounds to strange to work, will
post the results, later.
thanks



Molasses works but make SURE you wash it off very well. It also takes
quite a while. I have tried just about anything while doing restorations
and find electrolysis to be about the easiest and least labor intensive.

You can reuse the solution until it stops conducting. What I do then is
run it through a homebuilt filter setup. Just a small pump with a LARGE
filter. Then recharge the solution with some more chemical. Once it gets
REALLY bad I run it through the filter then run it into the evaporator I
built. That gives me the water back and the solids get tossed. Then I
start over.

The tank you use is limited by your imagination. I have used tarps and
pallets, large plastic totes, and poly drums.

Make SURE you DON'T try this process indoors. The process breaks the
water down into hydrogen and oxygen and can REALLY ruin your day if it
happens to build up and ignite. I use one of the cheap easy up
structures to protect the set-up from rain.

Power supply wise a battery charger works fine.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

On 23 Nov 2008 04:01:42 GMT,
(Old Chipper) wrote:

New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay!
-----------
Be remined that Naval Jelly does not remove rust but converts it
from the red to black oxide. Best solution appears to be
electrolitic cleaning. Use a plastic storage container from
walmart for the tank and your battery charger. Several threads
on this in this NG.

Usual solution is washing soda [baking soda also works] at the
rate of a tablespoon to the gallon, which is pretty tame.

google on "electrolytic derusting" for 700 hits.
start with
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolysis.pdf
http://www.woodmangler.com/Derusting...derusting.html
http://www.vhfsouth.org/tutorials/derusting.htm


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

Immerse it in vinegar, check it in a month.

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On 23 Nov 2008 04:01:42 GMT,
(Old Chipper) wrote:


New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay!

-----------
Be remined that Naval Jelly does not remove rust but converts it
from the red to black oxide. Best solution appears to be
electrolitic cleaning. Use a plastic storage container from
walmart for the tank and your battery charger. Several threads
on this in this NG.

Usual solution is washing soda [baking soda also works] at the
rate of a tablespoon to the gallon, which is pretty tame.

google on "electrolytic derusting" for 700 hits.
start with
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolysis.pdf
http://www.woodmangler.com/Derusting...derusting.html
http://www.vhfsouth.org/tutorials/derusting.htm



DONT EVER USE A STAINLESS STEEL ANODE or you'll risk making some
seriously toxic waste. Only do it in a well ventilated area as Hydrogen
gas is produced in significant quantities.

The archeologists use electrolytic derusting at very low current levels
to conserve iron cannon and the like. They are interested in preserving
every last detail of the surface they can. For the rest of us, a quick
result that doesn't do significant damage is preferable. For most
things its good if you are passing enough current to keep the derusting
bath warm, but you dont want it to boil.

I'd strongly reccomend putting some sort of ballast resistor in series
with the power supply to limit the current in the event of a short
circuit. Avoids all sorts of unwanted excitement. I usually use a car
headlamp bulb which at 60 watts rating will pass 5 amps when shorted. If
things are going well, it will be glowing dull red for most parts thast
will fit in a tank of about 2 litre capacity.

It helps to keep the worst of the corrosion knocked off the anode by
wire brushing it at intervals if you are either doing several parts or
have something big derusting over several days.

It works well with just about any alkali. A drop of detergent in the
solution can help with wetting. Used solution can be stood till it
settles and kept for next time.

P.S. Iggy, your favorite hydrochloric acid rust removal method works
pretty well for bulk rust removal but will etch away some good metal and
leaves the surface chloride contaminated which will make further rust
damage more likely. If you used the acid to get 90% of the rust off,
washed the object well then finished it by electrolytic derusting, you'd
get a much superior result.

F. George McDuffee wrote:

Be remined that Naval Jelly does not remove rust but converts it
from the red to black oxide.

I thought bluing was black oxide and I'm fairly sure that Naval Jelly takes bluing off.
What up with that?

Wes

On Nov 22, 6:01*pm, (Old
Chipper) wrote:
New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? *I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right now
I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever to sand
all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old axes etc, that
are really bad. Too give you an idea of what I'm doing. I have a sand
blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in south TX. I've read about the
battery charger and baking soda method, anyone know how large a charger is
needed and does it work or harm the parent metal?
thanks
-------------------------------------

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I use Zep Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover from Home Depot.
I can walk away and leave parts in there till I get around to using
them.
Karl

wrote:
On Nov 22, 6:01 pm, (Old
Chipper) wrote:
New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right now
I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever to sand
all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old axes etc, that
are really bad. Too give you an idea of what I'm doing. I have a sand
blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in south TX. I've read about the
battery charger and baking soda method, anyone know how large a charger is
needed and does it work or harm the parent metal?
thanks
-------------------------------------

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##-----------------------------------------------##

I use Zep Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover from Home Depot.
I can walk away and leave parts in there till I get around to using
them.
Karl

Karl, i wonder if that stuff is the same as Evaporust?

Iggy's reply is also what I use, but in addition to thoroughly washing in
clean water, I also have a bath of baking soda and water. To completely
neutralize the acid, after which I wash again,
Steve

"Old Chipper" wrote in message
om...

New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right now
I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever to sand
all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old axes etc, that
are really bad. Too give you an idea of what I'm doing. I have a sand
blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in south TX. I've read about the
battery charger and baking soda method, anyone know how large a charger is
needed and does it work or harm the parent metal?
thanks
-------------------------------------




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Metalworking Forums
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
rec.crafts.metalworking - 130461 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##

On 23 Nov 2008 04:01:42 GMT, (Old
Chipper) wrote:

I also use baking soda (sodium carbonate) for electrolytic cleaning. I use a
variable power supply so that I can control the current when de-rusting small
stuff, but a light bulb in series will work for a battery charger. assume
about four volts for the electrodes and drop the rest with a bulb. Due to the
constant current characteristic of bulb filaments, you won't be far off if you
assume a 5W bulb will give you .5A, 55W==4.5A etc. I use lead anodes because
they keep the solution cleaner than steel anodes. There is some lead carbonate
formed, but it's not a major issue as it's insoluble. Just don't eat it! Major
issue with stainless anodes other than worries about formation of hexavalent
chromium compounds is that they get inhibited by the current and eventually
stop working until the current is reversed or they are abraded.

For large objects that won't fit in a tank (lathe cabinets), I've used
phosphoric acid thickened with cellulose wallpaper paste with about 20% acid
by volume. This appears to be close to what Jenolite is. The advantage of
phosphoric acid over others is that it won't encourage further rust in
crevices. It is a fairly weak acid compared with hydrochloric and sulphuric
and the waste products are fairly benign. Don't pour it into the river, but
don't worry about diluting and watering the garden with it. It'll green up
your grass! Disadvantage is that the parts need scrubbing or pressure washing
to remove the crud that gets left on them.

Mark Rand
RTFM

Old Chipper wrote:
New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover
that can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always
restoring or reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the
dangers that can be involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop
I worked in. Jenolite or Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told
they contain Phosphoric acid, but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right
now I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever
to sand all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old
axes etc, that are really bad. Too give you an idea of what I'm
doing. I have a sand blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in
south TX. I've read about the battery charger and baking soda method,
anyone know how large a charger is needed and does it work or harm
the parent metal?
thanks

I use Evaporust. It is effective, less toxic and less hassle than acids.
Also can be reused until it gets black. Relatively cheap if bought in gallon
quantities.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Michael Koblic wrote:
Old Chipper wrote:
New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover
that can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always
restoring or reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the
dangers that can be involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop
I worked in. Jenolite or Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told
they contain Phosphoric acid, but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right
now I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever
to sand all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old
axes etc, that are really bad. Too give you an idea of what I'm
doing. I have a sand blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in
south TX. I've read about the battery charger and baking soda method,
anyone know how large a charger is needed and does it work or harm
the parent metal?
thanks

I use Evaporust. It is effective, less toxic and less hassle than acids.
Also can be reused until it gets black. Relatively cheap if bought in gallon
quantities.

I also use Evaporust and I'm a big fan of it.
But now I'm wondering if that Zep product at HD is the same stuff

On Mon, 24 Nov 2008 14:42:00 -0600, RB wrote:

Michael Koblic wrote:
Old Chipper wrote:
New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover
that can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always
restoring or reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the
dangers that can be involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop
I worked in. Jenolite or Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told
they contain Phosphoric acid, but what percentage?
I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right
now I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever
to sand all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old
axes etc, that are really bad. Too give you an idea of what I'm
doing. I have a sand blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in
south TX. I've read about the battery charger and baking soda method,
anyone know how large a charger is needed and does it work or harm
the parent metal?
thanks

I use Evaporust. It is effective, less toxic and less hassle than acids.
Also can be reused until it gets black. Relatively cheap if bought in gallon
quantities.

I also use Evaporust and I'm a big fan of it.
But now I'm wondering if that Zep product at HD is the same stuff
Nope.

On 2008-11-23, Old Chipper wrote:

New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?

I don't know. Never tried to make it.

I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right now
I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever to sand
all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old axes etc, that
are really bad.

The electrolytic approaches (power supply and baking soda, or
white vinegar and as much salt as you can dissolve) tend to attack one
metal of a pair connected together. In particular, people have tried
using it on things with small springs attached, and the springs
dissolved.

The other thing is that you should take it from the bath right
to a hot water rinse, and once the metal is hot enough, withdraw it,
wipe it with paper towels to remove most of the water, and as soon as it
is dry, coat it with oil. Otherwise it will flash rust.

Too give you an idea of what I'm doing. I have a sand
blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in south TX.

Like -- don't pick up a black steel tool which is out in the
sun. :-) I grew up there. What part of South Texas? I was in Cotulla
(about half way between San Antone and Laredo).

I've read about the
battery charger and baking soda method, anyone know how large a charger is
needed

Well ... I was using a lab power supply which could output
voltages from 0 - 36V, and from 0-5A -- with a current limit adjustment.
The more current, the faster it will work -- or the more area you can
clean in a given unit of time.

and does it work or harm the parent metal?
thanks

Keep rivets, screws, and springs out of what is being cleaned
and you should be fine.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 24 Nov 2008 03:48:18 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2008-11-23, Old Chipper wrote:

New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?

I don't know. Never tried to make it.

I'm not in a hurry, so even a "greener" solution would be okay! Right now
I have all the parts from a 1923 gain drill. Will take me forever to sand
all those parts. Have 1/2 dozen old handsaws and other old axes etc, that
are really bad.

The electrolytic approaches (power supply and baking soda, or
white vinegar and as much salt as you can dissolve) tend to attack one
metal of a pair connected together. In particular, people have tried
using it on things with small springs attached, and the springs
dissolved.

The other thing is that you should take it from the bath right
to a hot water rinse, and once the metal is hot enough, withdraw it,
wipe it with paper towels to remove most of the water, and as soon as it
is dry, coat it with oil. Otherwise it will flash rust.

Too give you an idea of what I'm doing. I have a sand
blaster but that suit gets awful hot here in south TX.

Like -- don't pick up a black steel tool which is out in the
sun. :-) I grew up there. What part of South Texas? I was in Cotulla
(about half way between San Antone and Laredo).

I've read about the
battery charger and baking soda method, anyone know how large a charger is
needed

Well ... I was using a lab power supply which could output
voltages from 0 - 36V, and from 0-5A -- with a current limit adjustment.
The more current, the faster it will work -- or the more area you can
clean in a given unit of time.

and does it work or harm the parent metal?
thanks

Keep rivets, screws, and springs out of what is being cleaned
and you should be fine.

Good Luck,
DoN.

And if you can't get them out due to the rust, they may come out just
fine in the tank.

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2008-11-23, Old Chipper
wrote:

New Member here! Hello all!
Anyone have a cheap (reasonable) recipe for a chemical rust remover that
can be used in removing medium to heavy rust? I'm always restoring or
reclying something that has rusted. I'm aware of the dangers that can be
involved. We used to do plating, etc. in the shop I worked in. Jenolite
or
Naval Jelly is made from what? I was told they contain Phosphoric acid,
but what percentage?

I don't know. Never tried to make it.

http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov...ds&id=13010007

Phosphoric acid is 25 - 30%. Water, fumed silica, isopropyl alcohol. A
little dab of surfactant and sulfuric acid.

--
Ed Huntress