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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
I've been playing with a Taig 2019 mini mill for a while now, and its fun,
but for hogging out any real amounts of metal I need to keep a constant spray of oil on my cutter. WD-40 works pretty darn good. So far I have just stood there metering WD-40 onto my cutter with a standard spray can, but that is getting old. Especially on longer cuts. I can buy it by the gallon for a pretty reasonable price, but still I hate to just waste it, and of course I need a way to dispense it, and maybe to recover it too. I was thinking to just weld up a big catch tray out of aluminum to go under the mil. Drill a hole in one corner and put a pipe down to a bucket to catch the oil, and then pump it back up to a nozzle on the side of my cutting head. Here are my thoughts. Put a stainless screen over the pan drain hole to keep the big pieces out of the bucket, and then maybe under that in the top of the pipe loosely stuff in some cheese cloth to filter out the smaller particles. Then I need to figure out a good pump to use to bring the oil back out of the bucket and to the nozzle at the cutting head. I was thinking a five gallon utility bucket with the lid snapped on would be a good sump, but I would like to leave it on the floor under my work bench so as to minimize the chances of knocking it over and wasting 20-40 dollars worth of oil. Of course I need a pump then that can lift the oil 3-4 feet safely and have some decent pressure at the head to be able to spray chips off and keep the cutting point cool. I figure a fuel pump might work, but I do not know if it will have the volume or pressure to do the job. A water cooler pump would have the volume, but maybe not the pressure, and I do not know if those pumps are explosion proof since they are designed to work in a water environment, not a flammable environment. Suggestions? Last time I checked a generic electric fuel pump was about $40 retail. P.S. The Taig specifically says not to use water based coolants. Bob La Londe www.YumaBassMan.com |
#2
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
On 2008-11-22, Bob La Londe wrote:
Suggestions? Last time I checked a generic electric fuel pump was about $40 retail. A lot easier to buy a working coolant system on ebay. You can also look into buying a misting cooler. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#3
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
"Ignoramus20688" wrote in message
... On 2008-11-22, Bob La Londe wrote: Suggestions? Last time I checked a generic electric fuel pump was about $40 retail. A lot easier to buy a working coolant system on ebay. You can also look into buying a misting cooler. Like this? http://tinyurl.com/5dlmzc Looks nice, and I like the pneumatic for pressure. Would make it a lot easier to get the pressure and volume you want, but it does nothing for recovery. In fact by using a pressurized tank you would have to do recovery as totally separate and non-automated process. I probably won't buy one, but I may make one now that I have seen that. Maybe set up a recovery reservoir with a float switch that does an auto shutdown when my recovery reservoir gets to about 1/2 the capacity of the oiler. Then I'ld never run out of oil if I walked in the office to get a soda and got distracted. Mister? I guess you could do it with a venturi style pickup instead of a pressurize tank, and then just play with your pickup and nozzle size to get a nice spray. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#4
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
On 2008-11-23, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Ignoramus20688" wrote in message ... On 2008-11-22, Bob La Londe wrote: Suggestions? Last time I checked a generic electric fuel pump was about $40 retail. A lot easier to buy a working coolant system on ebay. You can also look into buying a misting cooler. Like this? http://tinyurl.com/5dlmzc I was thinking along the lines of what I sold a while ago: http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/mis...-Coolant-Unit/ i Looks nice, and I like the pneumatic for pressure. Would make it a lot easier to get the pressure and volume you want, but it does nothing for recovery. In fact by using a pressurized tank you would have to do recovery as totally separate and non-automated process. I probably won't buy one, but I may make one now that I have seen that. Maybe set up a recovery reservoir with a float switch that does an auto shutdown when my recovery reservoir gets to about 1/2 the capacity of the oiler. Then I'ld never run out of oil if I walked in the office to get a soda and got distracted. Mister? I guess you could do it with a venturi style pickup instead of a pressurize tank, and then just play with your pickup and nozzle size to get a nice spray. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#5
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
Bob La Londe wrote:
"Ignoramus20688" wrote in message ... On 2008-11-22, Bob La Londe wrote: Suggestions? Last time I checked a generic electric fuel pump was about $40 retail. A lot easier to buy a working coolant system on ebay. You can also look into buying a misting cooler. Like this? http://tinyurl.com/5dlmzc Looks nice, and I like the pneumatic for pressure. Would make it a lot easier to get the pressure and volume you want, but it does nothing for recovery. In fact by using a pressurized tank you would have to do recovery as totally separate and non-automated process. I probably won't buy one, but I may make one now that I have seen that. Maybe set up a recovery reservoir with a float switch that does an auto shutdown when my recovery reservoir gets to about 1/2 the capacity of the oiler. Then I'ld never run out of oil if I walked in the office to get a soda and got distracted. Mister? I guess you could do it with a venturi style pickup instead of a pressurize tank, and then just play with your pickup and nozzle size to get a nice spray. I did some research , ended up designing and building a mister that uses a pressurized supply . You CAN inject the used coolant back into the tank , just use a small orifice . Check out water injectors for steam boilers , some use a similar device . The reason for pressurizing the supply is to help reduce water/coolant vapor in the air . The air supply is at a lower pressure , therefore the mist is of a "coarser" consistency . Larger "droplets" mean less evapotation , and less moisture in the air . The last thing I want around my machine tools is a moist environment . -- Snag sometimes ya gotta shovel manure to pay the bills |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
Bob La Londe wrote:
Like this? http://tinyurl.com/5dlmzc Looks nice, and I like the pneumatic for pressure. Mister? I guess you could do it with a venturi style pickup instead of a pressurize tank, and then just play with your pickup and nozzle size to get a nice spray. Hi Bob, That is a siphon mister unit, a fairly big one.... Most small milling operators tend to use misters as when they are set right (a little sputter these days) they are cleaner than anything other than dry or microdrop machining. A gallon of really good synthetic can run up to 25 bucks but at the right mix rate and output settings will net you 250 to 500 hours of machining. The only real downside is the air use (compressor noise) and cost (more electricity for the compressor). You can make your own as most low buck misters just have a small tube extending a bit into the airflow tube at about 80 degrees perpendicular. Matt |
#7
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
matthew maguire writes:
The only real downside is the air use (compressor noise) and cost (more electricity for the compressor). Plus misting introduces a constant contamination of the atmosphere, deeply inhalable micro droplets and vapor of questionable microbial sanitation and anticorrosion chemicals. But I suppose that's better than emulsified swine fat that's been in a bucket for months. Flooding with petroleum hydrocarbons sounds better all the time. |
#8
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
Richard J Kinch wrote:
(snip) Plus misting introduces a constant contamination of the atmosphere, deeply inhalable micro droplets and vapor of questionable microbial sanitation and anticorrosion chemicals. But I suppose that's better than emulsified swine fat that's been in a bucket for months. Flooding with petroleum hydrocarbons sounds better all the time. I would imagine that is why most misters now sputter or spit instead of fog. You definitely want to use synthetic instead of soluble oil in these things because of breathing issues. Also even though the smoke produced from cutting is not seen with a mister it is still there and one should be aware that all lubricated cutting produces vapors that are harmful in too large a quantity (even the very expensive microdrop "dry" units with the very enviro "pretty" lubricants. Matt |
#9
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
On Nov 23, 1:24 am, Richard J Kinch wrote:
matthew maguire writes: The only real downside is the air use (compressor noise) and cost (more electricity for the compressor). Plus misting introduces a constant contamination of the atmosphere, deeply inhalable micro droplets and vapor of questionable microbial sanitation and anticorrosion chemicals. But I suppose that's better than emulsified swine fat that's been in a bucket for months. Flooding with petroleum hydrocarbons sounds better all the time. Does anyone here remember T-nut, who bought a machine shop, where they were using misting coolant, which irritated his lungs (a precursor of lung cancer in my memory was actual cause) so he removed all mist cooling systems from his shop. After that it killed all ideas of buying anything from Enco or any other vendor who sold these. My recommendation is to use oil based coolant, no water/emulsions as you must clean up every time you use this to prevent machine rust. Ignator |
#10
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
Ignoramus20688 wrote: On 2008-11-22, Bob La Londe wrote: Suggestions? Last time I checked a generic electric fuel pump was about $40 retail. A lot easier to buy a working coolant system on ebay. You can also look into buying a misting cooler. Our buddies at Harbor Freight got you again with item 45333, which while not found in the online listing is in their printed catalogs. 2 gallon flood type coolant system, $40 reg, seen on sale for $29, tank, pump and mag base flexible coolant nozzle. BTW, Also at Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99886 |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
Bob La Londe writes:
Then I need to figure out a good pump to use to bring the oil back out of the bucket and to the nozzle at the cutting head. The smallest submersible aquarium or pond pump should work fine from Home Depot or Walmart. That's all that is used on the kerosene parts washers. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41287 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45303 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45305 Leaving aside the canard that WD-40 is just a perfumed petroleum distillate of kerosene weight. |
#12
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
I'm speculating for these comments, because I don't know what is the best
product that would/could be used with your machine (or why Taig says not to use water-based coolant/lubricants). I think there is a difference between water-based and water soluble lubricants, which could be explored. There are some glycerine-based cutting lubricants available, which are water soluable, which doesn't mean I'm suggesting you use water on your machine, but the water soluble characteristic is very favorable since the workpieces can be rinsed clean with water. There are likely to be some Taig user groups on Yahoo or other forums (or you could start one). I would imagine that some users are using something other than WD-40 (although I realize some folks believe there isn't anything better for any application that's better than WD-40) I would be reluctant to use a hydrocarbon cleaning solvent-type coolant for machining, adding some to a bandsaw cut is one thing, but having a volume of it sitting around (and pooling in a chip pan, on shop rags etc) doesn't sound very good to me. I wouldn't consider automatic transmission fluid to be the ultimate answer either. There are probably other DIY concoctions being used that probably don't have very good properties for cutting metal. I believe WD-40 is primarily made up of Stoddard solvent, or something very much like Stoddard, which is a great cleaning solvent, BTW. Glycerine-based cutting lubricants are going to be non-flammable, unlike WD-40 or Stoddard. One of the glycerine products that I'm familiar with is Lenox Pro Tool Lube. I've used it a lot, and it's performance is great. It's viscosity is more like liquid dish soap, not as thin as water or WD-40 (although it can be thinned). The only disadvantage of the PTL is that it can soften the paint that's on my machines from China, not immediately on contact, but it will if I let a dribble sit on the paint for a while. I don't consider this to be a serious problem though. Aside from flooding, squirting or spraying methods, you might want to consider gravity. Having a steady, adjustable drip just ahead of the tool path (or directed directly onto the cutting tool) shouldn't be too difficult to set up. A recovery tank would hold the run-off, lifting and pouring or a simple hand pump could be used for transferring enough liquid for a work session up to the delivery vessel. One of the squeeze-bulb hand pumps used for priming an outboard boat motor might suffice if there aren't any chips suspended in the liquid. The flooding process works very well for carrying chips away from the cutting tool though, which definitely has benefits. -- WB .......... metalworking projects www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... I've been playing with a Taig 2019 mini mill for a while now, and its fun, but for hogging out any real amounts of metal I need to keep a constant spray of oil on my cutter. WD-40 works pretty darn good. So far I have just stood there metering WD-40 onto my cutter with a standard spray can, but that is getting old. Especially on longer cuts. I can buy it by the gallon for a pretty reasonable price, but still I hate to just waste it, and of course I need a way to dispense it, and maybe to recover it too. I was thinking to just weld up a big catch tray out of aluminum to go under the mil. Drill a hole in one corner and put a pipe down to a bucket to catch the oil, and then pump it back up to a nozzle on the side of my cutting head. Here are my thoughts. Put a stainless screen over the pan drain hole to keep the big pieces out of the bucket, and then maybe under that in the top of the pipe loosely stuff in some cheese cloth to filter out the smaller particles. Then I need to figure out a good pump to use to bring the oil back out of the bucket and to the nozzle at the cutting head. I was thinking a five gallon utility bucket with the lid snapped on would be a good sump, but I would like to leave it on the floor under my work bench so as to minimize the chances of knocking it over and wasting 20-40 dollars worth of oil. Of course I need a pump then that can lift the oil 3-4 feet safely and have some decent pressure at the head to be able to spray chips off and keep the cutting point cool. I figure a fuel pump might work, but I do not know if it will have the volume or pressure to do the job. A water cooler pump would have the volume, but maybe not the pressure, and I do not know if those pumps are explosion proof since they are designed to work in a water environment, not a flammable environment. Suggestions? Last time I checked a generic electric fuel pump was about $40 retail. P.S. The Taig specifically says not to use water based coolants. Bob La Londe www.YumaBassMan.com |
#13
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
There are many soluble oils. You can find several (at least) at the local
oil company - not auto-parts - but the guys with tanks in the back and often have rail road access. They have the books and connections. But many are available from MSCdirect and other suppliers. Trim Sov is one I use on my saw and it is a good general purpose oil. Martin Wild_Bill wrote: I'm speculating for these comments, because I don't know what is the best product that would/could be used with your machine (or why Taig says not to use water-based coolant/lubricants). I think there is a difference between water-based and water soluble lubricants, which could be explored. There are some glycerine-based cutting lubricants available, which are water soluable, which doesn't mean I'm suggesting you use water on your machine, but the water soluble characteristic is very favorable since the workpieces can be rinsed clean with water. There are likely to be some Taig user groups on Yahoo or other forums (or you could start one). I would imagine that some users are using something other than WD-40 (although I realize some folks believe there isn't anything better for any application that's better than WD-40) I would be reluctant to use a hydrocarbon cleaning solvent-type coolant for machining, adding some to a bandsaw cut is one thing, but having a volume of it sitting around (and pooling in a chip pan, on shop rags etc) doesn't sound very good to me. I wouldn't consider automatic transmission fluid to be the ultimate answer either. There are probably other DIY concoctions being used that probably don't have very good properties for cutting metal. I believe WD-40 is primarily made up of Stoddard solvent, or something very much like Stoddard, which is a great cleaning solvent, BTW. Glycerine-based cutting lubricants are going to be non-flammable, unlike WD-40 or Stoddard. One of the glycerine products that I'm familiar with is Lenox Pro Tool Lube. I've used it a lot, and it's performance is great. It's viscosity is more like liquid dish soap, not as thin as water or WD-40 (although it can be thinned). The only disadvantage of the PTL is that it can soften the paint that's on my machines from China, not immediately on contact, but it will if I let a dribble sit on the paint for a while. I don't consider this to be a serious problem though. Aside from flooding, squirting or spraying methods, you might want to consider gravity. Having a steady, adjustable drip just ahead of the tool path (or directed directly onto the cutting tool) shouldn't be too difficult to set up. A recovery tank would hold the run-off, lifting and pouring or a simple hand pump could be used for transferring enough liquid for a work session up to the delivery vessel. One of the squeeze-bulb hand pumps used for priming an outboard boat motor might suffice if there aren't any chips suspended in the liquid. The flooding process works very well for carrying chips away from the cutting tool though, which definitely has benefits. |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
On 2008-11-23, Wild_Bill wrote:
I'm speculating for these comments, because I don't know what is the best product that would/could be used with your machine (or why Taig says not to use water-based coolant/lubricants). Because there is a lot of aluminum mounted to steel in the machine. Very far apart on the electrolytic scale, so add water (especially with salts which increase the conductivity) and you are soon etching your machine. The spindle and the tailstock ram are both mounted in aluminum extrusions. The cross-slide body is aluminum. The bed is an inverse steel dovetail mounted to an aluminum extrusions for a base, and the base is filled with concrete for rigidity. The headstock, tailstock, and carriage all are aluminum mounting to the steel. I've got a Taig from before the days that it had a Taig name on it -- bought at a hamfest when Taig was just getting started. I think there is a difference between water-based and water soluble lubricants, which could be explored. I would not use even the water soluble ones if they are hygroscopic (absorb water vapor from the air). [ ... ] There are likely to be some Taig user groups on Yahoo or other forums (or you could start one). I'm pretty sure that there is one there -- but since I don't use Yahoo (or other web-based forums), I don't know for sure. I would imagine that some users are using something other than WD-40 (although I realize some folks believe there isn't anything better for any application that's better than WD-40) Well ... WD-40 is a nice cutting fluid for aluminum, but I would not use it on steel. For that -- I would use the high sulfur threading oil sold for pipe threading -- painted on with an acid brush. For stronger machines, I've used SulFlo (a variant with powdered sulfur in sufficient quantities so it makes a nice paint-on paste. But you want good ventilation with the high sulfur stuff. :-) I would be reluctant to use a hydrocarbon cleaning solvent-type coolant for machining, adding some to a bandsaw cut is one thing, but having a volume of it sitting around (and pooling in a chip pan, on shop rags etc) doesn't sound very good to me. Motivation to clean up after the project? :-) I wouldn't consider automatic transmission fluid to be the ultimate answer either. It is again a pretty good one to use for cutting aluminum, but not for steel. There are probably other DIY concoctions being used that probably don't have very good properties for cutting metal. I believe WD-40 is primarily made up of Stoddard solvent, or something very much like Stoddard, which is a great cleaning solvent, BTW. Exactly. Not really an oil, but it does carry chips away nicely when cutting aluminum with a slitting saw blade. Glycerine-based cutting lubricants are going to be non-flammable, unlike WD-40 or Stoddard. But may attract and hold water -- thus etching away the Taig (and probably a Sherline is similar, though I've never had one to play with.) [ ... ] Aside from flooding, squirting or spraying methods, you might want to consider gravity. Having a steady, adjustable drip just ahead of the tool path (or directed directly onto the cutting tool) shouldn't be too difficult to set up. A recovery tank would hold the run-off, lifting and pouring or a simple hand pump could be used for transferring enough liquid for a work session up to the delivery vessel. My Nichols horizontal mill has a hook at one end of the bed which is also a pouring lib. You hang a small bucket from it, put another bucket up high with a bottom drain to the drip pipe, and every so often pause and dump the lower bucket into the upper one. It also has provisions for a big rectangular funnel with a filter grid which leads to a reservoir in the base, and a mounting plate for a pump to recirculate the coolant. It is all cast iron and steel, so water-based coolants can be used more safely with it -- especially with anti-rust additives. One of the squeeze-bulb hand pumps used for priming an outboard boat motor might suffice if there aren't any chips suspended in the liquid. Filters. The flooding process works very well for carrying chips away from the cutting tool though, which definitely has benefits. Chips -- and heat. Probably not a problem with the limited motor size of a Taig or a Sherline, but larger tools can benefit from that -- including not having to wait for a workpiece in the lathe to cool down before you can accurately measure the diameter. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#15
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
... Well ... WD-40 is a nice cutting fluid for aluminum, but I would not use it on steel. For that -- I would use the high sulfur threading oil sold for pipe threading -- painted on with an acid brush. For stronger machines, I've used SulFlo (a variant with powdered sulfur in sufficient quantities so it makes a nice paint-on paste. But you want good ventilation with the high sulfur stuff. :-) I am mostly working with aluminum. Exactly. Not really an oil, but it does carry chips away nicely when cutting aluminum with a slitting saw blade. Filters. Exactly The flooding process works very well for carrying chips away from the cutting tool though, which definitely has benefits. Chips -- and heat. Probably not a problem with the limited motor size of a Taig or a Sherline, but larger tools can benefit from that -- including not having to wait for a workpiece in the lathe to cool down before you can accurately measure the diameter. :-) Depends. A small cutter turning at max RPM gets pretty darn hot if you do not cool it, but carrying away chips is paramount when cutting aluminum as they are work hardened and will damage your work piece if not your cutter. |
#16
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
On 2008-11-24, Bob La Londe wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message ... [ ... ] Chips -- and heat. Probably not a problem with the limited motor size of a Taig or a Sherline, but larger tools can benefit from that -- including not having to wait for a workpiece in the lathe to cool down before you can accurately measure the diameter. :-) Depends. A small cutter turning at max RPM gets pretty darn hot if you do not cool it, but carrying away chips is paramount when cutting aluminum as they are work hardened and will damage your work piece if not your cutter. I was thinking more along the lines of turning in a lathe. I've turned some 6" diameter by 6" long 12L14 steel, and when I needed to hit a particular diameter it was the heat buildup in the steel workpiece which was the problem -- I was not using coolant (not set up for it), and once I got close in size I had to wait for a couple of hours (went up to dinner) before re-measuring it and taking the final cut. 6" diameter stock grows a *lot* when hot from machining. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#17
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
On Nov 22, 6:59�pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
I've been playing with a Taig 2019 mini mill for a while now, and its fun, but for hogging out any real amounts of metal I need to keep a constant spray of oil on my cutter. I just asked my local furnace/ AC repair guy to save me an oil fired furnace's pump for me the next time he replaced a furnace. This is the unit that pumps the heating oil through a nozzle to spray it into the combustion/heating chamber. Free for the asking! I haven't set it up on the old Bridgeport yet but it's 110V and I can pretty much use it as is. I just have to plumb some lines to it using the threaded input and output ports and close the re-circulation port too. I believe I originally heard of this in this group? Tim Finger Lakes region of NY www.alisam.com |
#18
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 06:57:47 -0800 (PST), Tim wrote:
On Nov 22, 6:59?pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote: I've been playing with a Taig 2019 mini mill for a while now, and its fun, but for hogging out any real amounts of metal I need to keep a constant spray of oil on my cutter. I just asked my local furnace/ AC repair guy to save me an oil fired furnace's pump for me the next time he replaced a furnace. This is the unit that pumps the heating oil through a nozzle to spray it into the combustion/heating chamber. Free for the asking! I haven't set it up on the old Bridgeport yet but it's 110V and I can pretty much use it as is. I just have to plumb some lines to it using the threaded input and output ports and close the re-circulation port too. I believe I originally heard of this in this group? Tim Finger Lakes region of NY www.alisam.com swamp cooler pumps cost about $20 and work well enough for water based coolants. Simply stick one in a 5 gallon bucket with the return line back into the bucket. shrug...if you elevate the bucket to just below table level, they will also work well enough for light oil coolants Gunner "They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..." Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania |
#19
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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DIY Coolant Pump For Milling
Bob La Londe wrote:
[snip] Suggestions? Last time I checked a generic electric fuel pump was about $40 retail. I'd suggest NOT using an electric (i.e. 12 VDC) fuel pump. Many of these have brushes and commutator designed to run immersed in fuel. For diesel or gasoline, this isn't a problem, as the fuel is clean and non-conductive. But for recycled cutting oil, eventually the concentration of small metallic particles will rise to the point at which they might short the commutator segments. 110 VAC aquarium pumps that have wetted rotors won't suffer from this problem since they are induction motors with no brushes or commutators. However both types might bind up if the metallic contaminants are magnetic and are attracted to the rotor/stator gap to the point at which they jamb the rotor. -- Paul Hovnanian ------------------------------------------------------------------ Sacred cows make the best hamburger. -- Mark Twain |
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