Well - it's about IRON anyway!
The well at the cottage is getting progressively worse - sulpher smell
and iron stains etc.
I think the well needs to be shocked - but the well-head is about 4
feet underground out in the yard between two trees. I really don't
want to have to dig it out one weekend, leave it open , work on it a
few weeks later, then backfill after I'm sure the shock had done it's
job. Really should extend the well casing above ground level if I do
dig it out - all more work than I really want to do before freezup.

So - the question -
With a submursible pump, could I just tap in to the line between the
pump and the check valve and install a "tap" that I can connect a
garden hose to, fill the bathtub with water, add chlorine to the tub,
shut off the pump, connect the hose to the tap and the tub, open the
tap and siphon the chlorine mix from the tub into the well? Or ose a
little "pony" pump to pump the water from the tub into the well?

The tub is a good 5 feet higher than the water line.
The pipe from the well to the checkvalve is black plastic, so putting
a tap in should be less than an hour's work - even counting a run into
the hardware store to get the parts.

What say you guys with well experience - can it be done?

I know it will not be as effective as flooding the well casing from
the top - but it might make enough improvement to carry through to
nice weather next summer????
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote in message
...
Well - it's about IRON anyway!
The well at the cottage is getting progressively worse - sulpher smell
and iron stains etc.
I think the well needs to be shocked - but the well-head is about 4
feet underground out in the yard between two trees. I really don't
want to have to dig it out one weekend, leave it open , work on it a
few weeks later, then backfill after I'm sure the shock had done it's
job. Really should extend the well casing above ground level if I do
dig it out - all more work than I really want to do before freezup.

So - the question -
With a submursible pump, could I just tap in to the line between the
pump and the check valve and install a "tap" that I can connect a
garden hose to, fill the bathtub with water, add chlorine to the tub,
shut off the pump, connect the hose to the tap and the tub, open the
tap and siphon the chlorine mix from the tub into the well? Or ose a
little "pony" pump to pump the water from the tub into the well?

The tub is a good 5 feet higher than the water line.
The pipe from the well to the checkvalve is black plastic, so putting
a tap in should be less than an hour's work - even counting a run into
the hardware store to get the parts.

What say you guys with well experience - can it be done?

I know it will not be as effective as flooding the well casing from
the top - but it might make enough improvement to carry through to
nice weather next summer????
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

this topic is often commented upon in alt.home.repair. you might try there.

On Thu, 02 Oct 2008 16:14:55 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot
canada wrote:


With a submursible pump, could I just tap in to the line between the
pump and the check valve and install a "tap" that I can connect a
garden hose to, fill the bathtub with water, add chlorine to the tub,
shut off the pump, connect the hose to the tap and the tub, open the
tap and siphon the chlorine mix from the tub into the well? Or ose a
little "pony" pump to pump the water from the tub into the well?

Unfortunately, submersible pumps have a check valve which prevents
exactly what you're trying to to -- reverse the flow thru the pump.

--
Ned Simmons

On Thu, 02 Oct 2008 18:04:41 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Oct 2008 16:14:55 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot
canada wrote:


With a submursible pump, could I just tap in to the line between the
pump and the check valve and install a "tap" that I can connect a
garden hose to, fill the bathtub with water, add chlorine to the tub,
shut off the pump, connect the hose to the tap and the tub, open the
tap and siphon the chlorine mix from the tub into the well? Or ose a
little "pony" pump to pump the water from the tub into the well?

Unfortunately, submersible pumps have a check valve which prevents
exactly what you're trying to to -- reverse the flow thru the pump.


Are you sure? There is a one way valve at the pressure tank. Does the
system need 2? There is no need to hold prime, as the pump is always
in water.
Not saying you are wrong - but DEFINITELY wanting to know FOR SURE.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Mon, 06 Oct 2008 18:58:27 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot
canada wrote:

On Thu, 02 Oct 2008 18:04:41 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Oct 2008 16:14:55 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot
canada wrote:


With a submursible pump, could I just tap in to the line between the
pump and the check valve and install a "tap" that I can connect a
garden hose to, fill the bathtub with water, add chlorine to the tub,
shut off the pump, connect the hose to the tap and the tub, open the
tap and siphon the chlorine mix from the tub into the well? Or ose a
little "pony" pump to pump the water from the tub into the well?

Unfortunately, submersible pumps have a check valve which prevents
exactly what you're trying to to -- reverse the flow thru the pump.


Are you sure? There is a one way valve at the pressure tank. Does the
system need 2? There is no need to hold prime, as the pump is always
in water.
Not saying you are wrong - but DEFINITELY wanting to know FOR SURE.

I don't know if every submersible well pump has a check at the pump,
but it seems to me a deep well pump (more than 30 ft, or 1 atmosphere
of water column) should. I do know mine does, and if you look at the
documents on Goulds' site all their deep well submersibles also do.

http://www.goulds.com/pdf/GSSINGLE.pdf
http://www.goulds.com/pdf/R5-25GS05.pdf

But in light of the amount of work involved, I don't blame you for
wanting to be sure. You could open the line as you propose for the
tee, but first pressurize it with a small air reservoir and see how
quickly it leaks down. You'd need enough air pressure to overcome the
pressure of the water in the well. Which brings to mind the fact
you'll need to know what that pressure is in order to select a pump to
force the chlorine solution to the bottom of the well, if you do find
there's no check down there.

Our well pump is down 225', and water weeps out the top of the casing
most of the year, so the pressure at the pump is over 100 psi.

--
Ned Simmons

In article ,
Ned Simmons wrote:

I don't know if every submersible well pump has a check at the pump,
but it seems to me a deep well pump (more than 30 ft, or 1 atmosphere
of water column) should. I do know mine does, and if you look at the
documents on Goulds' site all their deep well submersibles also do.

The check valve at the submersible is required since below 33 ft the
water column would separate and you would get a big BANG when you
started the pump and the columns collided.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **