I am needing/wanting to build a garage about 24x30. (but am open to
other sizes). I need to do this myself. I don’t have the money right
now for a concrete floor.

I have been toying with ideas trying to do this as cheaply as
possible. (And still look halfway decent). Anyway, what do you guys
think in terms of price the difference between vinyl siding/shingle
roof vs all metal building? Metal where I am is about 3.08/ft. I think
I priced vinyl siding at 70 bucks a square a Lowes. (Although I may be
able to find tan siding cheaper somewhere else).

I had been thinking pole barn was the cheapest. I am struggelign with
roof trusses vs building my own too.

One thing I was wondering, I sort of like the gambrel type roofs and
was reading a shed building manual last night. It had a plan where you
assembled gambrel type ribs on the ground, then assembled them togther
to form a building. It got me wondering, could a person assemble a
gambrel rib for a building such as this made of 4x4 posts on the
ground then somehow lift it into pre dug post holes? It seems the roof
and everything would be right there and it would have increased
headroom because of no trusses. Maybe using a pole or something to get
it up? (I could maybe get acess to a tractor with a bucket on it.) I
kind of like the gambrel roof look but it may be harder to do,
especially the roof.

Appreciate any help from you experts

stryped fired this volley in news:a5867314-66a8-
:


I am needing/wanting to build a garage about 24x30. (but am open to
other sizes). I need to do this myself. I don’t have the money right
now for a concrete floor.

I have been toying with ideas trying to do this as cheaply as
possible. (And still look halfway decent). Anyway, what do you guys
think in terms of price the difference between vinyl siding/shingle
roof vs all metal building? Metal where I am is about 3.08/ft. I think
I priced vinyl siding at 70 bucks a square a Lowes. (Although I may be
able to find tan siding cheaper somewhere else).

I had been thinking pole barn was the cheapest. I am struggelign with
roof trusses vs building my own too.

Stryped, you're not talking apples and oranges here. Metal will go right
over the girts without any substrate. Vinyl requires sheathing
underneath. By the time you sheath the entire structure, the vinyl will
become a less attactive solution than the metal.


One thing I was wondering, I sort of like the gambrel type roofs and
was reading a shed building manual last night. It had a plan where you
assembled gambrel type ribs on the ground, then assembled them togther
to form a building. It got me wondering, could a person assemble a
gambrel rib for a building such as this made of 4x4 posts on the
ground then somehow lift it into pre dug post holes? It seems the roof
and everything would be right there and it would have increased
headroom because of no trusses. Maybe using a pole or something to get
it up? (I could maybe get acess to a tractor with a bucket on it.) I
kind of like the gambrel roof look but it may be harder to do,
especially the roof.

Of course you can make complete frames and then erect them. But keep in
mind that even a gambrel type rafter system requires collar ties, thus
breaking down your concept of a higher roof. You still have a "ceiling"
at pole height.

Because it's so hard to get a big, heavy pole precisely to the right
depth, it's not a great idea to erect pre-built frames, unless you're
doing it on a slab on grade (and of course, then you have anchoring and
wind-load issues -- pole barns built on "hinges" are not a great idea;
just ask my next-door idiot neighbor).

The way pole barns are usually built is to get all the poles in the
ground, and "just about right" as to height. Then you strike a level
line all-round for the rim beams (a water level is a great way to do
this), and cut the posts to height after the rim structure is complete.
That's a lot less work, and a lot simpler than fiddling a frame into two
holes, taking it back out, re-digging or filling, and repeating that
scenario about six times per post.

(got the "pole barn building tee-shirt" yarns ago; my current one is
80x100, 20ft to the rafters in the center bay, built with salvaged power
poles and standing-rib galvalume)

LLoyd

On Aug 1, 8:09*am, stryped wrote:

other . I don’t have the money right
now for a concrete floor.

I have I may be
able to find tan siding cheaper somewhere else).

I had been to get
it up? *(I could
Appreciate any help from you experts

First of all are you in an area where there is a building code? If
you are subject ot the UBdc and are going to store cars, trucks, other
motorized equipment, etc you will have to have a concrete floor before
you can get an occupancy permit.

Second, on a pole building to get a permit many of the building
departments will require engineering on the frame and roof system.
Much simpler to go with wood studs 2'o/c
and roof truses(better yet studs 16"o/c). the building department
understands this type of construction and will leave you alone. use
7/16" osb for side wll and roof sheathing, will give you a good stiff
structure then a building wrap under the siding and 15# felt on the
roof, vinyl siding and shingles. Easiest materials for the DIY'er to
use and understand, also better chance any volunteer help you get will
also be fimilar with.

On Aug 1, 8:31*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:a5867314-66a8-
:



I am needing/wanting to build a garage about 24x30. (but am open to
other sizes). I need to do this myself. I don’t have the money right
now for a concrete floor.

I have been toying with ideas trying to do this as cheaply as
possible. (And still look halfway decent). Anyway, what do you guys
think in terms of price the difference between vinyl siding/shingle
roof vs all metal building? Metal where I am is about 3.08/ft. I think
I priced vinyl siding at 70 bucks a square a Lowes. (Although I may be
able to find tan siding cheaper somewhere else).

I had been thinking pole barn was the cheapest. I am struggelign with
roof trusses vs building my own too.

Stryped, you're not talking apples and oranges here. *Metal will go right
over the girts without any substrate. *Vinyl requires sheathing
underneath. *By the time you sheath the entire structure, the vinyl will
become a less attactive solution than the metal.



One thing I was wondering, I sort of like the gambrel type roofs and
was reading a shed building manual last night. It had a plan where you
assembled gambrel type ribs on the ground, then assembled them togther
to form a building. It got me wondering, could a person assemble a
gambrel rib for a building such as this made of 4x4 posts on the
ground then somehow lift it into pre dug post holes? It seems the roof
and everything would be right there and it would have increased
headroom because of no trusses. Maybe using a pole or something to get
it up? *(I could maybe get acess to a tractor with a bucket on it.) I
kind of like the gambrel roof look but it may be harder to do,
especially the roof.

Of course you can make complete frames and then erect them. *But keep in
mind that even a gambrel type rafter system requires collar ties, thus
breaking down your concept of a higher roof. *You still have a "ceiling"
at pole height.

Because it's so hard to get a big, heavy pole precisely to the right
depth, it's not a great idea to erect pre-built frames, unless you're
doing it on a slab on grade (and of course, then you have anchoring and
wind-load issues -- pole barns built on "hinges" are not a great idea;
just ask my next-door idiot neighbor).

The way pole barns are usually built is to get all the poles in the
ground, and "just about right" as to height. *Then you strike a level
line all-round for the rim beams (a water level is a great way to do
this), and cut the posts to height after the rim structure is complete. *
That's a lot less work, and a lot simpler than fiddling a frame into two
holes, taking it back out, re-digging or filling, and repeating that
scenario about six times per post.

(got the "pole barn building tee-shirt" yarns ago; my current one is
80x100, 20ft to the rafters in the center bay, built with salvaged power
poles and standing-rib galvalume)

LLoyd

Can I string level the bottom skirt boards then just measure from this
to the top for the location of the top boards?

By the way, where did you get those salvaged telephone poles? I called
the power company but they dont sell them.

stryped fired this volley in news:eee750ad-c385-
:
Can I string level the bottom skirt boards then just measure from this
to the top for the location of the top boards?

Yeah. But "string level" doesn't suit my tastes over that length. Use a
water level, and get it dead-on with absolutely no more work. You don't
need a pre-built level, just a length of relatively small-bore
transparent hose (no, you don't even need a reservoir).

By the way, where did you get those salvaged telephone poles? I called
the power company but they dont sell them.

I got mine from the power company. Locales vary. Square posts make a
better barn, in terms of fit and finish.

However, you've written over and over about 4x4 posts. Don't. 6x6 is
about the minimum for that size structure.

LLoyd

On Aug 1, 10:02*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:eee750ad-c385-
:

Can I string level the bottom skirt boards then just measure from this
to the top for the location of the top boards?

Yeah. *But "string level" doesn't suit my tastes over that length. *Use a
water level, and get it dead-on with absolutely no more work. *You don't
need a pre-built level, just a length of relatively small-bore
transparent hose (no, you don't even need a reservoir).

By the way, where did you get those salvaged telephone poles? I called
the power company but they dont sell them.

I got mine from the power company. *Locales vary. *Square posts make a
better barn, in terms of fit and finish.

However, you've written over and over about 4x4 posts. *Don't. *6x6 is
about the minimum for that size structure.

LLoyd

I live in the country and there are no codes.

4x4 would not work? what about 4x6?

"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Aug 1, 10:02 am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:eee750ad-c385-
:

Can I string level the bottom skirt boards then just measure from this
to the top for the location of the top boards?

Yeah. But "string level" doesn't suit my tastes over that length. Use a
water level, and get it dead-on with absolutely no more work. You don't
need a pre-built level, just a length of relatively small-bore
transparent hose (no, you don't even need a reservoir).

By the way, where did you get those salvaged telephone poles? I called
the power company but they dont sell them.

I got mine from the power company. Locales vary. Square posts make a
better barn, in terms of fit and finish.

However, you've written over and over about 4x4 posts. Don't. 6x6 is
about the minimum for that size structure.

LLoyd

I live in the country and there are no codes.

4x4 would not work? what about 4x6?

What about a package from your local builder?

4x4 would not work? what about 4x6?
Penny wise. Pound foolish. A standard way to make posts these days is too
nail together three 2x6. Use pressure treat below grade. Stagger the joints
and use gorilla glue. Also, a concrete cookie should be under the post in
the hole with a special bent rebar the hooks into the post. Very cheap and
keeps building in place during a thunderstorm.


What about a package from your local builder?

Excellent idea. They will provide the most cost effective design, give you
guidance, and deliver.

Karl