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stryped[_2_] stryped[_2_] is offline
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Default Help with building design!

On Aug 1, 8:31*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:a5867314-66a8-
:



I am needing/wanting to build a garage about 24x30. (but am open to
other sizes). I need to do this myself. I don’t have the money right
now for a concrete floor.


I have been toying with ideas trying to do this as cheaply as
possible. (And still look halfway decent). Anyway, what do you guys
think in terms of price the difference between vinyl siding/shingle
roof vs all metal building? Metal where I am is about 3.08/ft. I think
I priced vinyl siding at 70 bucks a square a Lowes. (Although I may be
able to find tan siding cheaper somewhere else).


I had been thinking pole barn was the cheapest. I am struggelign with
roof trusses vs building my own too.


Stryped, you're not talking apples and oranges here. *Metal will go right
over the girts without any substrate. *Vinyl requires sheathing
underneath. *By the time you sheath the entire structure, the vinyl will
become a less attactive solution than the metal.



One thing I was wondering, I sort of like the gambrel type roofs and
was reading a shed building manual last night. It had a plan where you
assembled gambrel type ribs on the ground, then assembled them togther
to form a building. It got me wondering, could a person assemble a
gambrel rib for a building such as this made of 4x4 posts on the
ground then somehow lift it into pre dug post holes? It seems the roof
and everything would be right there and it would have increased
headroom because of no trusses. Maybe using a pole or something to get
it up? *(I could maybe get acess to a tractor with a bucket on it.) I
kind of like the gambrel roof look but it may be harder to do,
especially the roof.


Of course you can make complete frames and then erect them. *But keep in
mind that even a gambrel type rafter system requires collar ties, thus
breaking down your concept of a higher roof. *You still have a "ceiling"
at pole height.

Because it's so hard to get a big, heavy pole precisely to the right
depth, it's not a great idea to erect pre-built frames, unless you're
doing it on a slab on grade (and of course, then you have anchoring and
wind-load issues -- pole barns built on "hinges" are not a great idea;
just ask my next-door idiot neighbor).

The way pole barns are usually built is to get all the poles in the
ground, and "just about right" as to height. *Then you strike a level
line all-round for the rim beams (a water level is a great way to do
this), and cut the posts to height after the rim structure is complete. *
That's a lot less work, and a lot simpler than fiddling a frame into two
holes, taking it back out, re-digging or filling, and repeating that
scenario about six times per post.

(got the "pole barn building tee-shirt" yarns ago; my current one is
80x100, 20ft to the rafters in the center bay, built with salvaged power
poles and standing-rib galvalume)

LLoyd


Can I string level the bottom skirt boards then just measure from this
to the top for the location of the top boards?

By the way, where did you get those salvaged telephone poles? I called
the power company but they dont sell them.