Wick some penatrant down the valve stem, then
If the top of the valve guide is exposed, try heating it first, then
whack the stem sharply.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 22:09:10 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

Ive found that several of the valves were stuck as a result of
rust...and with a bit of lifting and tapping managed to free all of
them, except #1 intake valve, which is closed and stuck tighter than
an 80 yr old nun.

I backed off the tappet adjustment, to get enough room to put the tip
of a screw driver between the valve stem and the lifter..no movement
Tapped on the screw driver..no movement. Banged on the screw driver
with a small hammer trying to wedge it upwards...no movement

Now what? Use a cold chisel as a big wedge and a bigger hammer?
I worry about dinging the adjuster, the cam lifter and the cam lobe

Any suggestions would be appreciated. And yep..the engine is still
frozen. Ill pull all the valves next week..assuming I can get this
bitch loose and see if I can turn over the engine..if not..Ill have to
drop the pan and drive the pistons up and out


Gunner
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 01:05:03 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Wick some penatrant down the valve stem, then
If the top of the valve guide is exposed, try heating it first, then
whack the stem sharply.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

The only way to wick the pentrant down the valve stem is to turn the
entire welding machine upside down

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/Miller55G

I cant get the valve spring out, without pulling the valve
first......would have to heat the **** out of the valve spring to get
heat to the valve stem...



On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 22:09:10 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

Ive found that several of the valves were stuck as a result of
rust...and with a bit of lifting and tapping managed to free all of
them, except #1 intake valve, which is closed and stuck tighter than
an 80 yr old nun.

I backed off the tappet adjustment, to get enough room to put the tip
of a screw driver between the valve stem and the lifter..no movement
Tapped on the screw driver..no movement. Banged on the screw driver
with a small hammer trying to wedge it upwards...no movement

Now what? Use a cold chisel as a big wedge and a bigger hammer?
I worry about dinging the adjuster, the cam lifter and the cam lobe

Any suggestions would be appreciated. And yep..the engine is still
frozen. Ill pull all the valves next week..assuming I can get this
bitch loose and see if I can turn over the engine..if not..Ill have to
drop the pan and drive the pistons up and out


Gunner
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

Gunner wrote:

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 01:05:03 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Wick some penatrant down the valve stem, then
If the top of the valve guide is exposed, try heating it first, then
whack the stem sharply.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

The only way to wick the pentrant down the valve stem is to turn the
entire welding machine upside down

Don't think you'd have that problem with the amazing Kroil.


http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/Miller55G

I cant get the valve spring out, without pulling the valve
first......would have to heat the **** out of the valve spring to get
heat to the valve stem...


You shouldn't need that much heat to help the Kroil wick and work. A
MAPP torch is probably plenty.