I tend to go through generic work gloves pretty quickly, so I'm
looking for some advice about which brands / styles that you
recommend. Normally it's the fingertips that get ripped out first,
followed by the along-finger seams. I prefer tight-fitting styles
for improved manual dexterity, doesn't have to be very long, up to the
wrist is fine.

Any advice here is appreciated.

thanks,

-Ben

On Wed, 9 Jul 2008 14:50:40 -0700 (PDT), Benjamin
wrote:

I tend to go through generic work gloves pretty quickly, so I'm
looking for some advice about which brands / styles that you
recommend. Normally it's the fingertips that get ripped out first,
followed by the along-finger seams. I prefer tight-fitting styles
for improved manual dexterity, doesn't have to be very long, up to the
wrist is fine.

Try some of the knit Kevlar gloves. They're very tough and not too
expensive, around $5. Grainger and McMaster both carry them in a
variety of weights and styles. They seem to be slipperier than other
materials, especially when new, so you may want to try those with the
dots or stripes of grippy stuff.

--
Ned Simmons

I find that *red* Harbor Freight $0.99 wear very well and last a long
time. At $0.99 I do not care if some $20 gloves would last 5 times
longer. I tried a lot of gloves, all not too expensive.

i

On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 10:40:51 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus16954 quickly quoth:

I find that *red* Harbor Freight $0.99 wear very well and last a long
time. At $0.99 I do not care if some $20 gloves would last 5 times
longer. I tried a lot of gloves, all not too expensive.

I have bought sixpacks of nearly every glove HF offers. Some last
well, others don't. The kevlars with strings of stickum on them work
well for glass and last well. The nitrile coated knit gloves are great
and last awhile, but they need to be machine dried if you work and
sweat like hell into them. Otherwise, they turn into toxic waste
dumps, if the smell is any indication. =:0

The large red welding gloves (3 pr for $8 on sale) are bulky but thick
and work pretty well for welding if you don't need too much dexterity.

The brown knit gloves and white cotton/black dot cottons are
throwaways, but at less than 80 cents a pair, they're OK.

The AO Safety mechanics gloves are nice but don't hold up well.

I haven't used the roping gloves or thumb-crotch padded leather gloves
long enough to find out how well they last, but they're strong and
feel good. I think the'll be keepers.

I didn't see the OP's post so I don't know what work he's into.

----------------------------------
VIRTUE...is its own punishment
==================================

On Jul 9, 2:50*pm, Benjamin
Any advice here is appreciated.

thanks,

-Ben

The best glove depends on what you are doing. TIG gloves are
different from Stick welding gloves. Wearhouse gloves are different
from roughneck gloves.

Dan

On Jul 10, 7:50 am, Benjamin wrote:
I tend to go through generic work gloves pretty quickly, so I'm
looking for some advice about which brands / styles that you
recommend. Normally it's the fingertips that get ripped out first,
followed by the along-finger seams. I prefer tight-fitting styles
for improved manual dexterity, doesn't have to be very long, up to the
wrist is fine.

Any advice here is appreciated.

thanks,

-Ben

I use what are known here as "riggers gloves" - soft and flexible,
funny yellow colour, so you can pick up a bolt/nut - made of goatskin
(or whatever passes for a goat in China, don't want to know) - they do
wear out, but are good for what they are supposed to do, ie protect
your hands while retaining manual dexterity. Buy them in packs, 3 for
$20, probably a lot cheaper in the US.
View them as consumerables as you would welding rods, drill bits,
cutting fluid - its just part of the craft....

Andrew VK3BFA.