Picked up the lathe tooling and cleaned some of it up.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...oling-CleanUp/

The chucks are rather large. See one of them sitting on top of a 5
gallon bucket.

The lathe will follow in 10 days or so.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
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Nice work!

I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is
phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle
grinder to finish or something more vicious?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC
- suffering from lathe-envy

"Ignoramus4323" wrote in message
...
Picked up the lathe tooling and cleaned some of it up.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...oling-CleanUp/

The chucks are rather large. See one of them sitting on top of a 5
gallon bucket.

The lathe will follow in 10 days or so.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On 2008-07-02, Michael Koblic wrote:
Nice work!

I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is
phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle
grinder to finish or something more vicious?


I am not sure what Gain is, but I did not use it. Might have gotten
into a picture accidentally. CorrosionX is a rust preventative lubricant
that maintains a non-drying oily film. Very nice.

I used a wirebrush, but did not use it near the screws of the 4 jaw
chuck. Only on outside surfaces that do not slide against each other.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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On Wed, 02 Jul 2008 01:34:06 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus4323 quickly quoth:

On 2008-07-02, Michael Koblic wrote:
Nice work!

I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is
phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle
grinder to finish or something more vicious?


I am not sure what Gain is, but I did not use it. Might have gotten
into a picture accidentally. CorrosionX is a rust preventative lubricant
that maintains a non-drying oily film. Very nice.

Gain is a laundry detergent, like Tide.

CorrosionX is probably great on tooling which will get greasy/oily in
use. I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my arn tools and it lasts well
without any oily residue. Buff it on with 0000 steel wool, let dry
10-15 minutes, and buff off. After about 5 years, those of my
handplanes which were unused are starting to show some signs of light
surface rusting again, so it's time again. Twice a decade ain't bad. I
like it because it's a thin coating which doesn't rub off and affect
wood finishes.


I used a wirebrush, but did not use it near the screws of the 4 jaw
chuck. Only on outside surfaces that do not slide against each other.

Smart man. I've seen hacks "clean up" threaded parts with a buffer and
remove half the threading. The tooling went from rusted to ruined in
five minutes. Maroons.

--
Such is the irresistible nature of truth that all it asks, and all it wants,
is the liberty of appearing. -- Thomas Paine

On 2008-07-02, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 02 Jul 2008 01:34:06 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus4323 quickly quoth:

On 2008-07-02, Michael Koblic wrote:
Nice work!

I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is
phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle
grinder to finish or something more vicious?


I am not sure what Gain is, but I did not use it. Might have gotten
into a picture accidentally. CorrosionX is a rust preventative lubricant
that maintains a non-drying oily film. Very nice.

Gain is a laundry detergent, like Tide.

CorrosionX is probably great on tooling which will get greasy/oily in
use.

Also on tools that are handled a lot. CorrosionX is very good at
staying where it was applied despite handling. It is a little more
time consuming, as it does not spray well, so it needs to be wiped on.
It has a better "hanging on ability" than LPS-2. And it does not
interfere with tool use, like LPS-3.

As of now, I use LPS-2 on stuff like taps, drills or anything that I
keep for a few months for ebay and do not want to start rusting; and
CorrosionX HD on tools that I actually use. LPS-2 forms a clear coat
and is easy to remove.

I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my arn tools and it lasts well
without any oily residue. Buff it on with 0000 steel wool, let dry
10-15 minutes, and buff off. After about 5 years, those of my
handplanes which were unused are starting to show some signs of light
surface rusting again, so it's time again. Twice a decade ain't bad. I
like it because it's a thin coating which doesn't rub off and affect
wood finishes.

Twice a decade is not bad at all.


I used a wirebrush, but did not use it near the screws of the 4 jaw
chuck. Only on outside surfaces that do not slide against each other.

Smart man. I've seen hacks "clean up" threaded parts with a buffer and
remove half the threading. The tooling went from rusted to ruined in
five minutes. Maroons.


Or spray lathe beds with spray paint "looks like new".

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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http://improve-usenet.org/

On Tue, 1 Jul 2008 23:20:18 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:

Nice work!

I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is
phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle
grinder to finish or something more vicious?

Gain is a laundry detergent (my wife prefers it over others). I use it
to wash my cars. (It gets out the tomato juice stains. g)

Joe

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...


Gain is a laundry detergent, like Tide.

CorrosionX is probably great on tooling which will get greasy/oily in
use. I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my arn tools and it lasts well
without any oily residue. Buff it on with 0000 steel wool, let dry
10-15 minutes, and buff off. After about 5 years, those of my
handplanes which were unused are starting to show some signs of light
surface rusting again, so it's time again. Twice a decade ain't bad. I
like it because it's a thin coating which doesn't rub off and affect
wood finishes.


I used a wirebrush, but did not use it near the screws of the 4 jaw
chuck. Only on outside surfaces that do not slide against each other.

Smart man. I've seen hacks "clean up" threaded parts with a buffer and
remove half the threading. The tooling went from rusted to ruined in
five minutes. Maroons.

I know many of the metal sculptors use Johnson's Paste Wax. For some reason
it is not available in Canada. I made my own wax through combining beeswax,
linseed oil and a bit of Varsol. Some of the same people swear by it but I
cannot say how good it actually is in the long run. Also, I made it a bit
hard for smooth application - need to use the hot air gun to melt it to
start. Does anyone have experience with other kinds of wax? Lee Valley sells
a few but they are mainly woodwork oriented.

Many people (particularly bikers for some reason) swear by Boeshield T-9. It
is not cheap and I have no personal experience with it. Again, Lee Valley
carry it so in my book it is a kind of recommendation.

In my recent effort I used one of those nylon rotating brushes to get rid of
surface rust - of course it was nothing as critical as a lathe chuck. Any
views on those things BTW?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

"Ignoramus14593" wrote in message
...

And it does not interfere with tool use, like LPS-3.

I did not know that. I use LPS3 for storage only. How does it interfere with
tool use?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On 2008-07-03, Michael Koblic wrote:

"Ignoramus14593" wrote in message
...

And it does not interfere with tool use, like LPS-3.

I did not know that. I use LPS3 for storage only. How does it interfere with
tool use?


Thick, messy film.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Wed, 2 Jul 2008 17:34:09 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .

CorrosionX is probably great on tooling which will get greasy/oily in
use. I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my arn tools and it lasts well
without any oily residue. Buff it on with 0000 steel wool, let dry
10-15 minutes, and buff off. After about 5 years, those of my
handplanes which were unused are starting to show some signs of light
surface rusting again, so it's time again. Twice a decade ain't bad. I
like it because it's a thin coating which doesn't rub off and affect
wood finishes.

I know many of the metal sculptors use Johnson's Paste Wax. For some reason
it is not available in Canada. I made my own wax through combining beeswax,
linseed oil and a bit of Varsol. Some of the same people swear by it but I
cannot say how good it actually is in the long run. Also, I made it a bit
hard for smooth application - need to use the hot air gun to melt it to
start. Does anyone have experience with other kinds of wax? Lee Valley sells
a few but they are mainly woodwork oriented.

beeswax/linseed oil/spirits is an old natural furniture finish, too.


Many people (particularly bikers for some reason) swear by Boeshield T-9. It
is not cheap and I have no personal experience with it. Again, Lee Valley
carry it so in my book it is a kind of recommendation.

Lots of the guys on the Wreck used to praise Boeshield for their cast
arn machine surfaces.


In my recent effort I used one of those nylon rotating brushes to get rid of
surface rust - of course it was nothing as critical as a lathe chuck. Any
views on those things BTW?

I've always used an old toothbrush (I bend the ends so they don't look
like something I'd ever again put into my mouth) or nylon brush for
removing wax from the car/truck and from waxed metal tools. I never
got fancy and electrified the process, though.

Oh, wait, were you referring to the ScotchBrite buffing pads? They're
great for derusting minor surface rust. I use them with WD-40 then
wipe all that crud off. I can stick those directly to the velcro hooks
on the bottom of my ROS, but usually just do it by hand. Nitrile
gloves hold up best for that.

--
Such is the irresistible nature of truth that all it asks, and all it wants,
is the liberty of appearing. -- Thomas Paine

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Oh, wait, were you referring to the ScotchBrite buffing pads? They're
great for derusting minor surface rust. I use them with WD-40 then
wipe all that crud off. I can stick those directly to the velcro hooks
on the bottom of my ROS, but usually just do it by hand. Nitrile
gloves hold up best for that.

This is the sort of thing:
http://www.spiralbrushes.com/abrasive-nylon.html

I bought one just to see what it is good for. They do not seem to make them
for 4.5" angle grinders (low rpm). I use it in a cordless drill.

On Jul 2, 9:59 pm, Ignoramus14593 ignoramus14...@NOSPAM.
14593.invalid wrote:
On 2008-07-03, Michael Koblic wrote:
"Ignoramus14593" wrote in message

And it does not interfere with tool use, like LPS-3.
I did not know that. I use LPS3 for storage only. How does it interfere with
tool use?
Thick, messy film.

Rustlick 631 isn't bad for indoor tools. It's light and clear like
WD-40 but actually protects the metal.

I mix LPS-3 with kerosine and apply it with a pump spray bottle
because the aerosol cans are expensive, messy and wasteful. It
separates when diluted and should be shaken before use. The thinned
mixture runs into cracks better and doesn't leave as much of the
sticky buildup that collects dust.

LPS-3 seems to greatly reduce corrosion on galvanized roofing. Some of
the sheets of it from HD had rust spots from trapped water. It was all
they had, discontinued, and they gave me a discount on it. It hasn't
visibly deteriorated in 3 years of exposure.

On Thu, 3 Jul 2008 20:41:44 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
Oh, wait, were you referring to the ScotchBrite buffing pads? They're
great for derusting minor surface rust. I use them with WD-40 then
wipe all that crud off. I can stick those directly to the velcro hooks
on the bottom of my ROS, but usually just do it by hand. Nitrile
gloves hold up best for that.

This is the sort of thing:
http://www.spiralbrushes.com/abrasive-nylon.html

I bought one just to see what it is good for. They do not seem to make them
for 4.5" angle grinders (low rpm). I use it in a cordless drill.

Pretty cool. I'd never seen them before your link. How well do they
do? Long or short lifespan?

--
Such is the irresistible nature of truth that all it asks, and all it wants,
is the liberty of appearing. -- Thomas Paine

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
I bought one just to see what it is good for. They do not seem to make
them
for 4.5" angle grinders (low rpm). I use it in a cordless drill.

Pretty cool. I'd never seen them before your link. How well do they
do? Long or short lifespan?

I have used mine only a couple of times. So far no flying nylon bristles. It
seems to me the worst of two worlds: 1) The rpm are low, therefore removal
of paint/rust is slow, 2) The underlying surface is scratched just as badly
as with a wire brush.

They seem to be used a lot for deburring etc. in industry.

I understand that there are Scotchbrite pads that go into angle grinders and
I shall look for one to see what*it* can do for me.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Fri, 4 Jul 2008 20:50:38 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
I bought one just to see what it is good for. They do not seem to make
them
for 4.5" angle grinders (low rpm). I use it in a cordless drill.

Pretty cool. I'd never seen them before your link. How well do they
do? Long or short lifespan?

I have used mine only a couple of times. So far no flying nylon bristles. It
seems to me the worst of two worlds: 1) The rpm are low, therefore removal
of paint/rust is slow, 2) The underlying surface is scratched just as badly
as with a wire brush.

They seem to be used a lot for deburring etc. in industry.

I understand that there are Scotchbrite pads that go into angle grinders and
I shall look for one to see what*it* can do for me.

Standard angle grinder speeds would likely wreck a scotchbrite pad
just from spinning it. Given any pressure, they'd melt. At slower
speeds, though, they work great, especially with mineral spirits or
WD-40. I keep boxes of 3-M 7447/7448 for use on metal and wood.

--
Jewish Zen:
Be here now. Be someplace else later. Is that so complicated, already?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.diversify.com - Uncomplicated Website Design, here and now.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Standard angle grinder speeds would likely wreck a scotchbrite pad
just from spinning it. Given any pressure, they'd melt. At slower
speeds, though, they work great, especially with mineral spirits or
WD-40. I keep boxes of 3-M 7447/7448 for use on metal and wood.

Took me a while to work out what ROS is. Now I understand. I probably cannot
use mine for that as it is a little square DeWalt which clips in
quarter-sheets. I use it a lot to finish my work.
I wonder why they do not make rotary brushes with phosphor-bronze bristles
for the angle grinders instead of just steel. One could be so much bolder
removing stuff.
I am also pretty sure I saw a "Scotchbrite-like" pad for an angle grinder. I
did not pay much attention, must go back and investigate. It was either
House of Tools or Lordco.
As we are on the subject: Do you use the sand-paper flap discs in your angle
grinder? I meant those where the sand-paper is kind of layered around the
periphery of the disc and you do not need a plastic backing pad. I tried one
and found that the point of contact with the work piece is quite different
from that of a ordinary disk with backing pad. Did not suit my purposes. Why
are they thought better than the others? None of the shop staff gave me a
definite answer.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Sat, 5 Jul 2008 13:38:42 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:

As we are on the subject: Do you use the sand-paper flap discs in your angle
grinder? I meant those where the sand-paper is kind of layered around the
periphery of the disc and you do not need a plastic backing pad. I tried one
and found that the point of contact with the work piece is quite different
from that of a ordinary disk with backing pad. Did not suit my purposes. Why
are they thought better than the others? None of the shop staff gave me a
definite answer.


I do. While they are not worth a **** for cutting off **** from the
side, they run cool, last a very long time and are quite efficent.

Yes..the "aiming point" is different than a fiber wheel, but its
something you get used to.

I keep a 4.5" with a fiber wheel for grinding off big chunks of metal,
and 2 with a medium and course flap wheel for normal work, and a 4th
with one of Toms marvelous knotted wire cup brushes, all under the
welding table and ready to hand.

I find the cup brush and the flap wheels get the most use.

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

On Sat, 5 Jul 2008 13:38:42 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
Standard angle grinder speeds would likely wreck a scotchbrite pad
just from spinning it. Given any pressure, they'd melt. At slower
speeds, though, they work great, especially with mineral spirits or
WD-40. I keep boxes of 3-M 7447/7448 for use on metal and wood.

Took me a while to work out what ROS is. Now I understand. I probably cannot
use mine for that as it is a little square DeWalt which clips in
quarter-sheets. I use it a lot to finish my work.

Random orbit sanders are all round. Orbital sanders have square or
rectangular pads.


I wonder why they do not make rotary brushes with phosphor-bronze bristles
for the angle grinders instead of just steel. One could be so much bolder
removing stuff.

RPM limits, probably.


I am also pretty sure I saw a "Scotchbrite-like" pad for an angle grinder. I
did not pay much attention, must go back and investigate. It was either
House of Tools or Lordco.

I've seen them for angle die grinders, but those are the slower speed
from what I recall. I've never used one so I don't know for sure. They
seem to be used mostly for polishing.


As we are on the subject: Do you use the sand-paper flap discs in your angle
grinder? I meant those where the sand-paper is kind of layered around the
periphery of the disc and you do not need a plastic backing pad. I tried one
and found that the point of contact with the work piece is quite different
from that of a ordinary disk with backing pad. Did not suit my purposes. Why
are they thought better than the others? None of the shop staff gave me a
definite answer.

Yes, and I love them. They look like they'd wear out quickly but I
don't find that to be true. They cut as well as grinding disks, so I
may not be buying any more of the grinding disks. They don't get into
corners or under ledges quite as well, but that's the only limitation
I've found. The more metalwork I do lately, the more I like flap
sanding disks.

--
Jewish Zen:
Be here now. Be someplace else later. Is that so complicated, already?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.diversify.com - Uncomplicated Website Design, here and now.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
As we are on the subject: Do you use the sand-paper flap discs in your
angle
grinder? I meant those where the sand-paper is kind of layered around the
periphery of the disc and you do not need a plastic backing pad. I tried
one
and found that the point of contact with the work piece is quite different
from that of a ordinary disk with backing pad. Did not suit my purposes.
Why
are they thought better than the others? None of the shop staff gave me a
definite answer.

Yes, and I love them. They look like they'd wear out quickly but I
don't find that to be true. They cut as well as grinding disks, so I
may not be buying any more of the grinding disks. They don't get into
corners or under ledges quite as well, but that's the only limitation
I've found. The more metalwork I do lately, the more I like flap
sanding disks.

I try to remove relatively even amounts of metal from relatively large areas
of plate. The disks with backing tend to do that for me, the flap disks have
a very small area of contact with the work and it is hard to get the
flatness. Horses for courses I guess.

The corner work is also important to me: I was trying to clean up a small
weld from small piece of work (2.5") in a right angle corner. It is hard to
do with the flap disk and I just about managed it with an abrasive disk
without massacring everything around it.

Of course I may be to metalwork what Genghis Khan was to diplomacy...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On Jul 6, 2:34*am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

The corner work is also important to me: I was trying to clean up a small
weld from small piece of work (2.5") in a right angle corner. It is hard to
do with the flap disk and I just about managed it with an abrasive disk
without massacring everything around it.

Of course I may be to metalwork what Genghis Khan was to diplomacy...
Michael Koblic,

The $20 copies of the Makita die grinder are pretty good for grinding
inside corners. Like the other cheap grinders they overheat in a few
minutes but usually you can switch to grinding something else to let
them cool.

One of my costume party personas is Genghis Khan's accountant, in
chain mail with sheepskin trim and a leather briefcase. I do head
counts.

On Sun, 6 Jul 2008 06:35:29 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:


One of my costume party personas is Genghis Khan's accountant, in
chain mail with sheepskin trim and a leather briefcase. I do head
counts.

ROFLMAO!

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

I missed the Staff meeting, but the Memos showed that Jim Wilkins
wrote on Sun, 6 Jul 2008 06:35:29 -0700 (PDT) in
rec.crafts.metalworking :
On Jul 6, 2:34*am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

The corner work is also important to me: I was trying to clean up a small
weld from small piece of work (2.5") in a right angle corner. It is hard to
do with the flap disk and I just about managed it with an abrasive disk
without massacring everything around it.

Of course I may be to metalwork what Genghis Khan was to diplomacy...
Michael Koblic,

The $20 copies of the Makita die grinder are pretty good for grinding
inside corners. Like the other cheap grinders they overheat in a few
minutes but usually you can switch to grinding something else to let
them cool.

One of my costume party personas is Genghis Khan's accountant, in
chain mail with sheepskin trim and a leather briefcase. I do head
counts.

Ah, Human Resources.

"What is good, Cohan?"

"To kill the programs of the enemy, to sack their staffs, plunder
their budgets, and take their corner offices. To hear the lamentations
of their press flacks and PR agents. That is good."

Bwahahaha.

pyotr



"To kill
--
pyotr filipivich
"I had just been through hell and must have looked like death warmed
over walking into the saloon, because when I asked the bartender
whether they served zombies he said, ‘Sure, what'll you have?'"
from I Hear America Swinging by Peter DeVries

On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 22:26:26 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

I missed the Staff meeting, but the Memos showed that Jim Wilkins
wrote on Sun, 6 Jul 2008 06:35:29 -0700 (PDT) in
rec.crafts.metalworking :
On Jul 6, 2:34*am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

The corner work is also important to me: I was trying to clean up a small
weld from small piece of work (2.5") in a right angle corner. It is hard to
do with the flap disk and I just about managed it with an abrasive disk
without massacring everything around it.

Of course I may be to metalwork what Genghis Khan was to diplomacy...
Michael Koblic,

The $20 copies of the Makita die grinder are pretty good for grinding
inside corners. Like the other cheap grinders they overheat in a few
minutes but usually you can switch to grinding something else to let
them cool.

One of my costume party personas is Genghis Khan's accountant, in
chain mail with sheepskin trim and a leather briefcase. I do head
counts.

Ah, Human Resources.

"What is good, Cohan?"

"To kill the programs of the enemy, to sack their staffs, plunder
their budgets, and take their corner offices. To hear the lamentations
of their press flacks and PR agents. That is good."

Bwahahaha.

pyotr



ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

I missed the Staff meeting, but the Memos showed that Gunner Asch
wrote on Sun, 06 Jul 2008 23:59:32 -0700
in rec.crafts.metalworking :
On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 22:26:26 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

I missed the Staff meeting, but the Memos showed that Jim Wilkins
wrote on Sun, 6 Jul 2008 06:35:29 -0700 (PDT) in
rec.crafts.metalworking :
On Jul 6, 2:34*am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

The corner work is also important to me: I was trying to clean up a small
weld from small piece of work (2.5") in a right angle corner. It is hard to
do with the flap disk and I just about managed it with an abrasive disk
without massacring everything around it.

Of course I may be to metalwork what Genghis Khan was to diplomacy...
Michael Koblic,

The $20 copies of the Makita die grinder are pretty good for grinding
inside corners. Like the other cheap grinders they overheat in a few
minutes but usually you can switch to grinding something else to let
them cool.

One of my costume party personas is Genghis Khan's accountant, in
chain mail with sheepskin trim and a leather briefcase. I do head
counts.

Ah, Human Resources.

"What is good, Cohan?"

"To kill the programs of the enemy, to sack their staffs, plunder
their budgets, and take their corner offices. To hear the lamentations
of their press flacks and PR agents. That is good."

Bwahahaha.

pyotr



ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's two.

I posted something like that in response to something by David T
Hardy about bureaucracies, and his response was "You understand!"

Keep in mind, that explains more about how Washington (and other
governmental centers) work. It is more important to score office
points, than to accomplish anything.


tschus
pyotr
--
pyotr filipivich
"I had just been through hell and must have looked like death warmed
over walking into the saloon, because when I asked the bartender
whether they served zombies he said, ‘Sure, what'll you have?'"
from I Hear America Swinging by Peter DeVries

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Standard angle grinder speeds would likely wreck a scotchbrite pad
just from spinning it. Given any pressure, they'd melt. At slower
speeds, though, they work great, especially with mineral spirits or
WD-40. I keep boxes of 3-M 7447/7448 for use on metal and wood.

OK, I may have been looking at this:
http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=15717

Anyone has experience with this or similar?

On Mon, 7 Jul 2008 21:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
Standard angle grinder speeds would likely wreck a scotchbrite pad
just from spinning it. Given any pressure, they'd melt. At slower
speeds, though, they work great, especially with mineral spirits or
WD-40. I keep boxes of 3-M 7447/7448 for use on metal and wood.

OK, I may have been looking at this:
http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=15717

Anyone has experience with this or similar?

No, but Klingspor puts out quality materials for $$$$.

What's your end purpose for a wheel?

----------------------------------
VIRTUE...is its own punishment
==================================

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 7 Jul 2008 21:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
Standard angle grinder speeds would likely wreck a scotchbrite pad
just from spinning it. Given any pressure, they'd melt. At slower
speeds, though, they work great, especially with mineral spirits or
WD-40. I keep boxes of 3-M 7447/7448 for use on metal and wood.

OK, I may have been looking at this:
http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=15717

Anyone has experience with this or similar?

No, but Klingspor puts out quality materials for $$$$.

What's your end purpose for a wheel?

Sounds like a line from Flintstones.
In this case paint/rust removal.

On Tue, 8 Jul 2008 10:41:59 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 7 Jul 2008 21:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Standard angle grinder speeds would likely wreck a scotchbrite pad
just from spinning it. Given any pressure, they'd melt. At slower
speeds, though, they work great, especially with mineral spirits or
WD-40. I keep boxes of 3-M 7447/7448 for use on metal and wood.

OK, I may have been looking at this:
http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=15717

Anyone has experience with this or similar?

No, but Klingspor puts out quality materials for $$$$.

What's your end purpose for a wheel?

Sounds like a line from Flintstones.
In this case paint/rust removal.

I like the coarse flap sandpaper wheels for that, cutoff wheels for
cutting off, & coarse resin grinding wheels for heavy grinding (like
hiding my weld beads until I get better.

----------------------------------
VIRTUE...is its own punishment
==================================