Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Picked up the lathe tooling and cleaned some of it up.
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...oling-CleanUp/ The chucks are rather large. See one of them sitting on top of a 5 gallon bucket. The lathe will follow in 10 days or so. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#2
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Nice work!
I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle grinder to finish or something more vicious? -- Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC - suffering from lathe-envy "Ignoramus4323" wrote in message ... Picked up the lathe tooling and cleaned some of it up. http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...oling-CleanUp/ The chucks are rather large. See one of them sitting on top of a 5 gallon bucket. The lathe will follow in 10 days or so. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#3
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 2008-07-02, Michael Koblic wrote:
Nice work! I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle grinder to finish or something more vicious? I am not sure what Gain is, but I did not use it. Might have gotten into a picture accidentally. CorrosionX is a rust preventative lubricant that maintains a non-drying oily film. Very nice. I used a wirebrush, but did not use it near the screws of the 4 jaw chuck. Only on outside surfaces that do not slide against each other. -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#4
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 02 Jul 2008 01:34:06 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus4323 quickly quoth: On 2008-07-02, Michael Koblic wrote: Nice work! I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle grinder to finish or something more vicious? I am not sure what Gain is, but I did not use it. Might have gotten into a picture accidentally. CorrosionX is a rust preventative lubricant that maintains a non-drying oily film. Very nice. Gain is a laundry detergent, like Tide. CorrosionX is probably great on tooling which will get greasy/oily in use. I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my arn tools and it lasts well without any oily residue. Buff it on with 0000 steel wool, let dry 10-15 minutes, and buff off. After about 5 years, those of my handplanes which were unused are starting to show some signs of light surface rusting again, so it's time again. Twice a decade ain't bad. I like it because it's a thin coating which doesn't rub off and affect wood finishes. I used a wirebrush, but did not use it near the screws of the 4 jaw chuck. Only on outside surfaces that do not slide against each other. Smart man. I've seen hacks "clean up" threaded parts with a buffer and remove half the threading. The tooling went from rusted to ruined in five minutes. Maroons. -- Such is the irresistible nature of truth that all it asks, and all it wants, is the liberty of appearing. -- Thomas Paine |
#5
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 2008-07-02, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 02 Jul 2008 01:34:06 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus4323 quickly quoth: On 2008-07-02, Michael Koblic wrote: Nice work! I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle grinder to finish or something more vicious? I am not sure what Gain is, but I did not use it. Might have gotten into a picture accidentally. CorrosionX is a rust preventative lubricant that maintains a non-drying oily film. Very nice. Gain is a laundry detergent, like Tide. CorrosionX is probably great on tooling which will get greasy/oily in use. Also on tools that are handled a lot. CorrosionX is very good at staying where it was applied despite handling. It is a little more time consuming, as it does not spray well, so it needs to be wiped on. It has a better "hanging on ability" than LPS-2. And it does not interfere with tool use, like LPS-3. As of now, I use LPS-2 on stuff like taps, drills or anything that I keep for a few months for ebay and do not want to start rusting; and CorrosionX HD on tools that I actually use. LPS-2 forms a clear coat and is easy to remove. I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my arn tools and it lasts well without any oily residue. Buff it on with 0000 steel wool, let dry 10-15 minutes, and buff off. After about 5 years, those of my handplanes which were unused are starting to show some signs of light surface rusting again, so it's time again. Twice a decade ain't bad. I like it because it's a thin coating which doesn't rub off and affect wood finishes. Twice a decade is not bad at all. I used a wirebrush, but did not use it near the screws of the 4 jaw chuck. Only on outside surfaces that do not slide against each other. Smart man. I've seen hacks "clean up" threaded parts with a buffer and remove half the threading. The tooling went from rusted to ruined in five minutes. Maroons. Or spray lathe beds with spray paint "looks like new". -- Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers you will need to find a different means of posting on Usenet. http://improve-usenet.org/ |
#6
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Ignoramus14593" wrote in message ... And it does not interfere with tool use, like LPS-3. I did not know that. I use LPS3 for storage only. How does it interfere with tool use? -- Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC |
#7
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... Gain is a laundry detergent, like Tide. CorrosionX is probably great on tooling which will get greasy/oily in use. I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my arn tools and it lasts well without any oily residue. Buff it on with 0000 steel wool, let dry 10-15 minutes, and buff off. After about 5 years, those of my handplanes which were unused are starting to show some signs of light surface rusting again, so it's time again. Twice a decade ain't bad. I like it because it's a thin coating which doesn't rub off and affect wood finishes. I used a wirebrush, but did not use it near the screws of the 4 jaw chuck. Only on outside surfaces that do not slide against each other. Smart man. I've seen hacks "clean up" threaded parts with a buffer and remove half the threading. The tooling went from rusted to ruined in five minutes. Maroons. I know many of the metal sculptors use Johnson's Paste Wax. For some reason it is not available in Canada. I made my own wax through combining beeswax, linseed oil and a bit of Varsol. Some of the same people swear by it but I cannot say how good it actually is in the long run. Also, I made it a bit hard for smooth application - need to use the hot air gun to melt it to start. Does anyone have experience with other kinds of wax? Lee Valley sells a few but they are mainly woodwork oriented. Many people (particularly bikers for some reason) swear by Boeshield T-9. It is not cheap and I have no personal experience with it. Again, Lee Valley carry it so in my book it is a kind of recommendation. In my recent effort I used one of those nylon rotating brushes to get rid of surface rust - of course it was nothing as critical as a lathe chuck. Any views on those things BTW? -- Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC |
#8
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 2 Jul 2008 17:34:09 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message .. . CorrosionX is probably great on tooling which will get greasy/oily in use. I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my arn tools and it lasts well without any oily residue. Buff it on with 0000 steel wool, let dry 10-15 minutes, and buff off. After about 5 years, those of my handplanes which were unused are starting to show some signs of light surface rusting again, so it's time again. Twice a decade ain't bad. I like it because it's a thin coating which doesn't rub off and affect wood finishes. I know many of the metal sculptors use Johnson's Paste Wax. For some reason it is not available in Canada. I made my own wax through combining beeswax, linseed oil and a bit of Varsol. Some of the same people swear by it but I cannot say how good it actually is in the long run. Also, I made it a bit hard for smooth application - need to use the hot air gun to melt it to start. Does anyone have experience with other kinds of wax? Lee Valley sells a few but they are mainly woodwork oriented. beeswax/linseed oil/spirits is an old natural furniture finish, too. Many people (particularly bikers for some reason) swear by Boeshield T-9. It is not cheap and I have no personal experience with it. Again, Lee Valley carry it so in my book it is a kind of recommendation. Lots of the guys on the Wreck used to praise Boeshield for their cast arn machine surfaces. In my recent effort I used one of those nylon rotating brushes to get rid of surface rust - of course it was nothing as critical as a lathe chuck. Any views on those things BTW? I've always used an old toothbrush (I bend the ends so they don't look like something I'd ever again put into my mouth) or nylon brush for removing wax from the car/truck and from waxed metal tools. I never got fancy and electrified the process, though. ![]() Oh, wait, were you referring to the ScotchBrite buffing pads? They're great for derusting minor surface rust. I use them with WD-40 then wipe all that crud off. I can stick those directly to the velcro hooks on the bottom of my ROS, but usually just do it by hand. Nitrile gloves hold up best for that. -- Such is the irresistible nature of truth that all it asks, and all it wants, is the liberty of appearing. -- Thomas Paine |
#9
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 1 Jul 2008 23:20:18 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote: Nice work! I take it "Gain" is some sort of industrial degreaser? And "CorrosionX" is phosphoric acid in some form? Did you use the Scotchbrite pad in an angle grinder to finish or something more vicious? Gain is a laundry detergent (my wife prefers it over others). I use it to wash my cars. (It gets out the tomato juice stains. g) Joe |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
For women who desire the traditional 12-marker dials, the "Faceto,""Juro" and "Rilati" all add a little more functionality, without sacrificingthe diamonds. | Woodworking | |||
""FREE "DELETED FILE RECOVERY " TRUE "" | Electronics Repair | |||
Orange Peel Texture? "Knockdown" or "Skip Trowel" also "California Knock-down" | Home Repair |