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Default engine problems

I have a '94 Ford Ranger pickup. It has only 62000 miles on as I ride
my bike a lot. It has been a good runner until recently when one day
I
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.
Out on the street it smoothes out a little but lacks power. Since
it’s drivable I’m trying to troubleshoot it myself rather than take it
someplace where they will sell me a lot of parts I don’t need.
It has the 2.3 L 4 cyl. Engine with distributorless ignition. I’m
thinking that the
probability is that the problem is not the ignition because of the
relatively low mileage, the two ignition modules and two plugs per
cylinder.
Does this make sense? My guess is a clogged fuel injector. I put in a
bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner and have driven it about 40
miles with no results.
How long does it usually take injector cleaner to work?
Is it possible to use a scanner on it? I don't see anything about
that
in Chilton's.
Any other ideas?
Engineman
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On Sat, 31 May 2008 10:45:03 -0700 (PDT), with neither quill nor
qualm, " quickly quoth:

I have a '94 Ford Ranger pickup. It has only 62000 miles on as I ride
my bike a lot. It has been a good runner until recently when one day
I
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.
Out on the street it smoothes out a little but lacks power. Since
it’s drivable I’m trying to troubleshoot it myself rather than take it
someplace where they will sell me a lot of parts I don’t need.
It has the 2.3 L 4 cyl. Engine with distributorless ignition. I’m
thinking that the
probability is that the problem is not the ignition because of the
relatively low mileage, the two ignition modules and two plugs per
cylinder.
Does this make sense? My guess is a clogged fuel injector. I put in a
bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner and have driven it about 40
miles with no results.
How long does it usually take injector cleaner to work?
Is it possible to use a scanner on it? I don't see anything about
that
in Chilton's.
Any other ideas?


Possible causes: timing belt slipped (best bet), plug wire
shorting/fell off.

Other things I've seen cause instant power loss on Rangers is when a
guy ran leaded gas through one. It melted the front of the catalytic
converter closed. I still have a chunk of that one for a keepsake.

Run a compression test to rule out a cracked ring, burnt valve, or
something else internal. Check the timing. If you can't find the
mark, it's probably the timing belt. 60k is when they usually went on
the early ones, back when I worked for a Ford dealer.

--

To change one's self is sufficient. It's the idiots who want to change
the world who are causing all the trouble --Anonymous
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At least I have a name
Engineman

On May 31, 10:55*am, "*" wrote:
wrote in article
...
I have a '94 Ford Ranger pickup. It has only 62000 miles on as I ride
my bike a lot. It has been a good runner until recently when one day
I
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.
Out on the street it smoothes out a little but lacks power. Since
it’s drivable I’m trying to troubleshoot it myself rather than take it
someplace where they will sell me a lot of parts I don’t need.
*It has the 2.3 L 4 cyl. Engine with distributorless ignition. I’m
thinking that the
probability is that the problem is not the ignition because of the
relatively low mileage, the two ignition modules and two plugs per
cylinder.
Does this make sense? My guess is a clogged fuel injector. I put in a
bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner and have driven it about 40
miles with no results.
How long does it usually take injector cleaner to work?
Is it possible to use a scanner on it? I don't see anything about
that
in Chilton's.
Any other ideas?
Engineman

----------

The first idea that comes to mind is that with your propensity to guess
instead of test logically, you might want to change your name from
"engineman" to something else.


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wrote:

started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.


Plug or plug wiring - would say 95% probaility.


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" wrote:

I have a '94 Ford Ranger pickup. It has only 62000 miles on as I ride
my bike a lot. It has been a good runner until recently when one day
I
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.
Out on the street it smoothes out a little but lacks power. Since
it’s drivable I’m trying to troubleshoot it myself rather than take it
someplace where they will sell me a lot of parts I don’t need.
It has the 2.3 L 4 cyl. Engine with distributorless ignition. I’m
thinking that the
probability is that the problem is not the ignition because of the
relatively low mileage, the two ignition modules and two plugs per
cylinder.


First thing, do you get a MIL? I'm not sure when ODB was phased in. Likely
ODBI some amount of information isn't likely as great as ODBII

Make sure the coil isn't arcing over on the post that supplies that cylinder
or the boot on plug.

Compression check, look at plug to make sure it is in good shape.

Check the connector to the injector.

I don't know how to test an injector or how practical it is to swap them
around to see if the problem moves.

Wes
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wrote:

I have a '94 Ford Ranger pickup. It has only 62000 miles on as I ride
my bike a lot. It has been a good runner until recently when one day
I
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.
Out on the street it smoothes out a little but lacks power. Since
it’s drivable I’m trying to troubleshoot it myself rather than take it
someplace where they will sell me a lot of parts I don’t need.
It has the 2.3 L 4 cyl. Engine with distributorless ignition. I’m
thinking that the
probability is that the problem is not the ignition because of the
relatively low mileage, the two ignition modules and two plugs per
cylinder.
Does this make sense? My guess is a clogged fuel injector. I put in a
bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner and have driven it about 40
miles with no results.
How long does it usually take injector cleaner to work?
Is it possible to use a scanner on it? I don't see anything about
that
in Chilton's.
Any other ideas?
Engineman



If you have a clamp on type timing light you can verify that the
ignition system is working. Do a compression check on all the cylinders
and look for an obvious problem. Have the injectors cleaned by a shop
such as NAPA. If that doesn't do it, you may have problems with the
computer or the injector circuit. Hope this helps. I had an Escort
with pretty much the same engine that threw a rod. Replaced it with a
used engine and it only ran about two minutes. Never did find out what
was wrong with that thing. finally sold it for scrap, which is about
all a Ford is worth anyway.

Jim
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On May 31, 4:58*pm, Zayonc wrote:
wrote:
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.


Plug or plug wiring - would say 95% probaility.


Even though they have two plugs per cylinder, a single worn plug is
noticeable. I'd replace all 8, with platinums on the barely accessible
intake manifold side. The plug wires and timing belt are suspicious
due to age.

Small animals can get into the air filter box and chew up the filter
and the heat riser hose.

In general I begin diagnosing engine problems with a complete tune-up.
Maybe half the time that either fixes the problem or leads me to it.

Jim Wilkins
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I had an 85 Ranger with the 2.4 L that did something similar.
Ran rough, loss of power on the highway. Took it to a shop for
a tune up - ran like a champ - for 1/2 a week, then back to running
rough again. I was afraid of all sorts of bad things, took it back
to the shop; they worked on it again, again it was smooth for 1/2 a
week. (During this time I was working abou 500 miles out of town
and only got to the shop on Saturdays).

To make a long story short, *one* plug insulating boot had a *tiny*
pinhole in it. Just by pulling them off and putting them back it
would clean enough dirt/carbon off the thing to run well - until
the dirt built back up, and the high energy coil put out enough
volts to short to ground intermittently through the crud.

Take it back then next week, pull the wires, and repeat. They
finally found it by spraying water on each lead as it idled.
When they hit the one with the pinhole, it shut down.

You couldn't see the pinhole without a magnifying glass.

May not be your problem, but might be worth a look.

Henry Bibb
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On May 31, 8:06*pm, wrote:
...
To make a long story short, *one* plug insulating boot had a *tiny*
pinhole in it....
Henry Bibb


Good suggestion. Ford recommends silicone grease in the wire caps
which might possibly fix a pinhole.

The symptoms were different, but my 91 2.3L Ranger has had warmup
problems from a dying heated oxygen sensor (HEGO) and a hot-air door
that slipped off its control wire.

Jim Wilkins


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wrote in message
k.net...
I had an 85 Ranger with the 2.4 L that did something similar.
Ran rough, loss of power on the highway. Took it to a shop for
a tune up - ran like a champ - for 1/2 a week, then back to running
rough again. I was afraid of all sorts of bad things, took it back
to the shop; they worked on it again, again it was smooth for 1/2 a
week. (During this time I was working abou 500 miles out of town
and only got to the shop on Saturdays).

To make a long story short, *one* plug insulating boot had a *tiny*
pinhole in it. Just by pulling them off and putting them back it
would clean enough dirt/carbon off the thing to run well - until
the dirt built back up, and the high energy coil put out enough
volts to short to ground intermittently through the crud.

Take it back then next week, pull the wires, and repeat. They
finally found it by spraying water on each lead as it idled.
When they hit the one with the pinhole, it shut down.

You couldn't see the pinhole without a magnifying glass.

Sometimnes you can see arcing if you observe the engine in the dark.


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wrote in message
...
I have a '94 Ford Ranger pickup. It has only 62000 miles on as I ride
my bike a lot. It has been a good runner until recently when one day
I
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.
Out on the street it smoothes out a little but lacks power. Since
it’s drivable I’m trying to troubleshoot it myself rather than take it
someplace where they will sell me a lot of parts I don’t need.
It has the 2.3 L 4 cyl. Engine with distributorless ignition. I’m
thinking that the
probability is that the problem is not the ignition because of the
relatively low mileage, the two ignition modules and two plugs per
cylinder.
Does this make sense? My guess is a clogged fuel injector. I put in a
bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner and have driven it about 40
miles with no results.
How long does it usually take injector cleaner to work?
Is it possible to use a scanner on it? I don't see anything about
that
in Chilton's.
Any other ideas?
Engineman
A lot of good ideas in other posts but seldom used vehicles are prone to
suffer from sticky valves so you might want to consider that also.

Don Young


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I have a '91 Ranger. Same apparent symptoms once led to Oxygen sensor, and
once to something called "mass air sensor."

In both cases, r&r offending sensor (at @$110 per copy) did the job. It now
has 186k on it and goes fishing with me regularly, relatively
trouble-free - - - except for the &%$#@@# bolt in the seat-back which
sheared a few months ago and lets the seat-back lean into the aft-cab and
requires a full case of (Dr.Pepper?) to keep it pointed upright. As the
cans disappear, the back sags proportionately, but it seems to matter a
little less with each passing can.

Flash



"Don Young" wrote in message
webinternetservicesprovideinc...

wrote in message
...
I have a '94 Ford Ranger pickup. It has only 62000 miles on as I ride
my bike a lot. It has been a good runner until recently when one day
I
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.
Out on the street it smoothes out a little but lacks power. Since
it's drivable I'm trying to troubleshoot it myself rather than take it
someplace where they will sell me a lot of parts I don't need.
It has the 2.3 L 4 cyl. Engine with distributorless ignition. I'm
thinking that the
probability is that the problem is not the ignition because of the
relatively low mileage, the two ignition modules and two plugs per
cylinder.
Does this make sense? My guess is a clogged fuel injector. I put in a
bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner and have driven it about 40
miles with no results.
How long does it usually take injector cleaner to work?
Is it possible to use a scanner on it? I don't see anything about
that
in Chilton's.
Any other ideas?
Engineman
A lot of good ideas in other posts but seldom used vehicles are prone to
suffer from sticky valves so you might want to consider that also.

Don Young




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ATP* wrote:

wrote in message
k.net...

I had an 85 Ranger with the 2.4 L that did something similar.
Ran rough, loss of power on the highway. Took it to a shop for
a tune up - ran like a champ - for 1/2 a week, then back to running
rough again. I was afraid of all sorts of bad things, took it back
to the shop; they worked on it again, again it was smooth for 1/2 a
week. (During this time I was working abou 500 miles out of town
and only got to the shop on Saturdays).

To make a long story short, *one* plug insulating boot had a *tiny*
pinhole in it. Just by pulling them off and putting them back it
would clean enough dirt/carbon off the thing to run well - until
the dirt built back up, and the high energy coil put out enough
volts to short to ground intermittently through the crud.

Take it back then next week, pull the wires, and repeat. They
finally found it by spraying water on each lead as it idled.
When they hit the one with the pinhole, it shut down.

You couldn't see the pinhole without a magnifying glass.


Sometimnes you can see arcing if you observe the engine in the dark.




He drives a Ford. He's been in the dark for years! :-)

Jim
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On May 31, 1:45 pm, " wrote:
I have a '94 Ford Ranger pickup. It has only 62000 miles on as I ride
my bike a lot. It has been a good runner until recently when one day
I
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.
Out on the street it smoothes out a little but lacks power. Since
it’s drivable I’m trying to troubleshoot it myself rather than take it
someplace where they will sell me a lot of parts I don’t need.
It has the 2.3 L 4 cyl. Engine with distributorless ignition. I’m
thinking that the
probability is that the problem is not the ignition because of the
relatively low mileage, the two ignition modules and two plugs per
cylinder.
Does this make sense? My guess is a clogged fuel injector. I put in a
bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner and have driven it about 40
miles with no results.
How long does it usually take injector cleaner to work?
Is it possible to use a scanner on it? I don't see anything about
that
in Chilton's.
Any other ideas?
Engineman


If it's throwing a check engine light you can check codes on the OBD-I
on the '94s with a jumper wire on the diagnostic connector, turn on
the key and count the flashes between pauses.

These guys probably have a link to the codes somewhere in there..
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php

ah yes, here we go:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

Hope that helps,
--Glenn Lyford


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" wrote in news:4b65ca10-25a2-
:

I have a '94 Ford Ranger pickup. It has only 62000 miles on as I ride
my bike a lot. It has been a good runner until recently when one day
I
started it and the engine ran as rough as if one cylinder was
missing.
Out on the street it smoothes out a little but lacks power. Since
it’s drivable I’m trying to troubleshoot it myself rather than take it
someplace where they will sell me a lot of parts I don’t need.
It has the 2.3 L 4 cyl. Engine with distributorless ignition. I’m
thinking that the
probability is that the problem is not the ignition because of the
relatively low mileage, the two ignition modules and two plugs per
cylinder.
Does this make sense? My guess is a clogged fuel injector. I put in a
bottle of Gumout fuel injector cleaner and have driven it about 40
miles with no results.
How long does it usually take injector cleaner to work?
Is it possible to use a scanner on it? I don't see anything about
that
in Chilton's.
Any other ideas?
Engineman


Question 1:
Did you change the timing belt at 50,000 miles like you were supposed to?
Pull the inspection plug on the timing cover. Take the neg batt cable
off. Use a socket & ratchet to (TURNING CLOCKWISE!) turn it over until
TDC and check the cam timing mark to pointer through the inspection hole.
My bet is it slipped a tooth or two. If the cam timing is good, put a set
of plugs and wires in it and go merrily on your way.
I've got a 87 Ranger I currently drive daily with the 2.3L, 292,000
miles. Change the timing belt at 50k, change plugs & wires every 75K,
brakes every 100k, a clutch every 150-175k and you're good to go, and it
still gets 27-29 mpg mixed city/hwy.
Still own an old Ford Courier with the 2.3L, parked it at 550,000+ miles,
body was falling off. Still ran and drove good.
That 2.3L is a hella dependable little engine.

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

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On Jun 1, 12:28*am, Jim Chandler wrote:

He drives a Ford. *He's been in the dark for years! *:-)

Jim


Support your favorite global industrial conglomerate?
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On Mon, 2 Jun 2008 03:28:37 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Jun 1, 12:28*am, Jim Chandler wrote:

He drives a Ford. *He's been in the dark for years! *:-)

Jim


Support your favorite global industrial conglomerate?

Hey, I got my license on a ford with pretty much the instrument layout
as my current car (Echo)
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
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