I have a 6 year old or so Delta chop saw. It does not seem to cut as
well as it once did and seems to loose power or spin slower than
normal while cutting.

Are there brushes or somethign that should be replaced in it?

On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 10:37:59 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

I have a 6 year old or so Delta chop saw. It does not seem to cut as
well as it once did and seems to loose power or spin slower than
normal while cutting.

Are there brushes or somethign that should be replaced in it?

If this is an abrasive saw, not a woodworking chop saw, your wheel is
glazed and/or loaded. Dress it with a dressing stick (or in a pinch,
an old bench grinder wheel) and it'll be good as new.

A coarse silicon carbide dressing stick costs less than $5.

--
Ned Simmons

Agree totally with first reply. Take a close look at the edge of the
wheel. I'll bet it is rounded or of a veee shape instead of nice and
square (straight across).
In my experience this condition can be caused by cutting very wide
stock, let's say anything over about 1/2" thick by about 3 or 4 inches
wide with the stock laying down in the vise on it's wide side. The
wheel does not like to be contacting a lot of stock at any one time.
Once I make several cuts in a 1" thick by 5 inch wide bar. I finally
gave up and used my old reciprocating power hack saw.
Another thing that can cause this problem is if you are forcing the
wheel into the work crooked. This causes wear on the SIDES of the
wheel, so it has to cut more and more material as it goes down through
the work as the sides contact the unremoved metal. In this case, toss
the wheel and start all over, making sure alignment is correct and that
nothing is loose under the wheel.

Pete Stanaitis
-------------

stryped wrote:
I have a 6 year old or so Delta chop saw. It does not seem to cut as
well as it once did and seems to loose power or spin slower than
normal while cutting.

Are there brushes or somethign that should be replaced in it?

On Apr 14, 2:06*pm, spaco wrote:
Agree totally with first reply. * Take a close look at the edge of the
wheel. *I'll bet it is rounded or of a veee shape instead of nice and
square (straight across).
* *In my experience this condition can be caused by cutting very wide
stock, let's say anything over about 1/2" thick by about 3 or 4 inches
wide with the stock laying down in the vise on it's wide side. *The
wheel does not like to be contacting a lot of stock at any one time.
* *Once I make several cuts in a 1" thick by 5 inch wide bar. *I finally
gave up and used my old reciprocating power hack saw.
* *Another thing that can cause this problem is if you are forcing the
wheel into the work crooked. *This causes wear on the SIDES of the
wheel, so it has to cut more and more material as it goes down through
the work as the sides contact the unremoved metal. *In this case, toss
the wheel and start all over, making sure alignment is correct and that
nothing is loose under the wheel.

Pete Stanaitis
-------------



stryped wrote:
I have a 6 year old or so Delta chop saw. It does not seem to cut as
well as it once did and seems to loose power or spin slower than
normal while cutting.

Are there brushes or somethign that should be replaced in it?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

But I have bought a new abraisve wheel and it still cuts bad. (It is
meant to be a chop saw by the way. It is not a miter saw.)

stryped wrote:

But I have bought a new abraisve wheel and it still cuts bad.

I guess it is running the wrong way round. :-)


Nick
--
The lowcost-DRO:
http://www.yadro.de

stryped wrote:

I have a 6 year old or so Delta chop saw. It does not seem to cut as
well as it once did and seems to loose power or spin slower than
normal while cutting.


If it does, you should see two covers, likely round black plastic with a
screw driver slot, at 180 degrees from each other that hold the works that
retain the brushes. I think my Sears saw uses brushes.

Real hardware stores still stock brushes. McMaster Carr if not.

Had to shim the brushes in a chip conveyor motor last night to limp it along
until I can order new brushes.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Apr 14, 5:14*pm, Wes wrote:
stryped wrote:
I have a 6 year old or so Deltachopsaw. It does not seem to cut as
well as it once did and seems to loose power or spin slower than
normal while cutting.

If it does, you should see two covers, likely round black plastic with a
screw driver slot, at 180 degrees from each other that hold the works that
retain the brushes. *I think my Sears saw uses brushes.

Real hardware stores still stock brushes. *McMaster Carr if not.

Had to shim the brushes in a chip conveyor motor last night to limp it along
until I can order new brushes.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." *Dick Anthony Heller

By the way, I would really like a bandsaw, but the one I bought
several years ago at TSC would not cut straight no matter what I did.
I went through two before I sent it back and got my current chop saw.

Are they still that was. (The cheaper models?)

On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 07:45:22 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:
On Apr 14, 5:14*pm, Wes wrote:
stryped wrote:

I have a 6 year old or so Delta chopsaw. It does not seem to cut as
well as it once did and seems to lose power or spin slower than
normal while cutting.

If it does, you should see two covers, likely round black plastic with a
screw driver slot, at 180 degrees from each other that hold the works that
retain the brushes. *I think my Sears saw uses brushes.

Real hardware stores still stock brushes. *McMaster Carr if not.

Had to shim the brushes in a chip conveyor motor last night to limp it along
until I can order new brushes.

If the brushes are that close to gone you should hear the speed
changing and odd sounds even when not loaded.

By the way, I would really like a bandsaw, but the one I bought
several years ago at TSC would not cut straight no matter what I did.
I went through two before I sent it back and got my current chop saw.

Are they still that was. (The cheaper models?)

All cheap import bandsaws are "kits" and will need to be properly
opened up and cleaned out (they like to leave casting sand inside the
gearboxes with not enough grease to properly mix with) and the blade
guides & alignment fine tuned before use - nature of the beast when
they have to meet everyone else's sales price. They send the raw
materials, you have to turn it into a working saw.

If you are going to chop lots of metal production style, look into
Cold Saws. Looks like a really stout 12" to 16" woodworking style
miter saw, fine spaced but heavy toothed carbide tipped saw blade,
turns rather slow, serious horsepower (2 or more). Doesn't abrade the
metal like a chop saw, actually cuts it.

Cold Saws are /not/ cheap, but they last. Fairly quiet, no drama,
slot appears... You can't just put that blade in a woodworking saw,
way too flimsy, way too fast. And plastic blade guards don't deal
with red-hot chips well.

Blades for them are not cheap, but they are sharpenable many times
and new teeth are brazed on and sharpened to match when they pop off.
But don't let too many teeth fall off before sending it in for rework,
it's a cascade effect failure - if you lose two or three teeth in a
row you can suddenly catch the edge and zip them all off...

-- Bruce --

On 2008-04-16, Bruce L Bergman wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 07:45:22 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

[ ... ]

By the way, I would really like a bandsaw, but the one I bought
several years ago at TSC would not cut straight no matter what I did.
I went through two before I sent it back and got my current chop saw.

Are they still that was. (The cheaper models?)

All cheap import bandsaws are "kits" and will need to be properly
opened up and cleaned out (they like to leave casting sand inside the
gearboxes with not enough grease to properly mix with) and the blade
guides & alignment fine tuned before use - nature of the beast when
they have to meet everyone else's sales price. They send the raw
materials, you have to turn it into a working saw.

Well ... that depends. Back when they were referred to as the
$200 horizontal/vertical bandsaw (and prices were already falling below
that), I got one from MSC which turned out a lot better than others that
I have seen.

The motor can run a long time and stay cool, while it is common
for the original motor to burn up on a long cut.

The blade guide assemblies on many of them are bent-up mild
steel, while the ones on this were forgings to which the
eccentric-mounted ball bearing guides were assembled. The difference is
that chips and thick welds on the sheet-metal ones will bend the metal
thus loosening the adjustments over time. This one holds the original
factory adjustment and still works fine after about ten years of use.

*All* of them have a blade tensioning adjustment which takes
pretty much all of your strength to tighten to get it to the minimum
tension -- so until you learn this, you will get your blade wandering
all over the place. :-)

And -- MSC thought enough of this one to put their name on it,
which I think they would not have, had they sold the cheapest version.

[ ... ]

Cold Saws are /not/ cheap, but they last. Fairly quiet, no drama,

[ ... ]

Blades for them are not cheap, but they are sharpenable many times
and new teeth are brazed on and sharpened to match when they pop off.

And, of course, you can get bandsaw blade stock in rolls, and if
you have a blade welder, or make a jig for silver-soldering the blades,
you can save a lot of money over time.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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