Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

Bill

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:17:06 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

Bill



You'd want them turned about halfway as you found out.

Your sling should go in between the headstock and the chuck.
So don't take of the chuck off yet.

Wayne D.

On Mar 31, 9:17 am, Bill Schwab wrote:
Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

Bill

There "should" be indexing marks for release. You might need to whack
it with a soft face hammer, tend to bind up - especially if its had
the tacky sticky protective grease "stuff" sprayed on prior to
shipping...

Andrew VK3BFA.

"Wayne" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:17:06 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

Bill



You'd want them turned about halfway as you found out.

Yep, then whack the chuck with a rubber mallet.

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 19:17:06 -0400, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it???

Yes, you can go past it. Should be able to *feel* it click about 1/2
way.

Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

Not before you place a piece of plywood on th' ways. After you turn
th' locks 1/2 way CCW and tap it with a rubber hammer, it'll pop right
off. You don't want that chuck landing on th' ways!

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

I've yet to see what size/brand lathe you bought. I'm assuming it's a
12 x 36 Clausing style, yes? FWIW, I put mine (new 12 x 36 Central
Machinery) on th' cabinets/stands using an engine hoist, sans
cribbing, by myself. Took about an hour and went slick as snot. Be
happy to 'splain it to ya if you want.

Snarl... tryin' to catch up in here

On Mar 30, 7:17*pm, Bill Schwab wrote:
Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? *I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. *I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? *Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. *Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? *If so, where?


Bill

This might be a good time to make a wooden block that slides on the
ways and almost reaches the chuck. The classy ones are curved to fit
the chuck but mine just has blocks nailed on top and bottom. Ideally
when you place the chuck on this block and push it up to the spindle
you can rotate chuck or spindle to align the camlock pins and slide
the chuck right on. And when you loosen the chuck it doesn't fall and
damage the ways or your hand.

Jim Wilkins

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 23:26:37 GMT, Wayne
wrote:

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:17:06 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

You'd want them turned about halfway as you found out.

Your sling should go in between the headstock and the chuck.
So don't take of the chuck off yet.

I didn't like th' idea of doing it that way; ie, weight of th' machine
suspended by th' headstock bearings. It's prolly just fine, but I
used some soft ties in th' casting holes of th' bed instead. Moved
th' cross slide to balance it after removing th' tailstock, tool post,
and chuck. That thing picked dead nuts level with an engine hoist.

I did have to put some counter weight on th' back of th' hoist tho.
And I put a safety line from th' hoist to th' ends of th' lathe to
keep it square and unable to swing around. Worked great!

Snarl... IMHO, YMMV, and all that jazz

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...

"Wayne" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:17:06 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

Bill



You'd want them turned about halfway as you found out.

Yep, then whack the chuck with a rubber mallet.



Support it firmly by hand & place some wood below on the bed, they can
sometimes drop in a hurry and damage fingers or the lathe bed.

Wayne.... I don't believe you told him to hoist the lathe by the spindle.
How to ruin a lathe in one simple step.
Steve


"Wayne" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:17:06 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

Bill



You'd want them turned about halfway as you found out.

Your sling should go in between the headstock and the chuck.
So don't take of the chuck off yet.

Wayne D.

Bill Schwab wrote:
Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened
by going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need
to give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being
able to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the
attempt.

Bill


Bill did you not get a manual with the lathe or no info on the D1-4
camlock chuck release. I can scan the details for my Harrison M300 if
you want. The M300 details basically shows an alignment mark on the cam
piece and the spindle has a release mark at 12 o'clock when looking at
the cam piece. When these are aligned the chuck can be removed. The
spindle also has an arrow at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock and the cam piece
alignment mark must sit between these marks for proper retainment of the
chuck. Also noted is that the M300 has a mark on the spindle and the
chuck should be marked so that the chuck always goes back at the same
place. If the cam piece alignment mark isn't between the arrows the
camlock studs must be screwed in or out as appropriate so that the
alignment mark falls between the arrows.

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 22:57:26 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Wayne.... I don't believe you told him to hoist the lathe by the spindle.
How to ruin a lathe in one simple step.
Steve

Its done every day.
The only time Ive seen a bent spindle, was when someone nailed the
chuck from the side with a forklift at a good clip.

Gunner, machine tool repair dood, who has hoisted lathes with slings
between the spindle and the tailstock end many times, with no ill
effects.





"Wayne" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:17:06 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

Bill



You'd want them turned about halfway as you found out.

Your sling should go in between the headstock and the chuck.
So don't take of the chuck off yet.

Wayne D.




"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 15:57:26 -0500, Steve Lusardi
wrote:

Wayne.... I don't believe you told him to hoist the lathe by the spindle.
How to ruin a lathe in one simple step.
Steve


Steve,

I questioned that when watched a sheldon lathe 50 feet up in the air.
I thought that would be bad. Later I question my dealer about it.
I was told to think about the forces involved cutting metal.
I've move 3 lathes this way without any issues.

Wayne D.


"Wayne" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:17:06 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Ok, I give up: how does one remove the chuck? I found the three
square-driven locks (I think) and turned them CCW. I felt what might
have been a release in the center of the turn; perhaps I retightened by
going past it??? Anyway, a gentle tug was not enough. Do I need to
give it whack like an R8 tool? If so, where?

BTW, the lathe is still pallet-bound. I think I am close to being able
to sling it, and am headed out for proper cribbing before the attempt.

Bill



You'd want them turned about halfway as you found out.

Your sling should go in between the headstock and the chuck.
So don't take of the chuck off yet.

Wayne D.