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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 00:53:03 -0600, Ignoramus1782
wrote: I just finished a mini project. I fixed a "broken" Miller XMT 300 CC/CV welding machine, which had the switch for the display broken. That switch was switching the display between showing voltage or current on a mini LED screen. The broken switch had to be desoldered and a new one had to be soldered in. The issue that I ran into was desoldering. I have a "Pace SMD 2000 desoldering station" from my younger military surplus days. This station has a tool that is like a soldering iron, but has a axial hole in the tip and an adapter for a vacuum, and the built in vacuum. When I push on a pedal, the vacuum starts sucking through the tip. So I would melt the solder with the hot tip, push the pedal and... My problem was that it barely sucked. Not enough to vacuum in the solder from the circuit board. As a stopgap measure, I used my 1/3 HP vacuum pump by connecting it to the desoldering tool and turning on at the proper moment. In the end, it all worked, the old switch was removed, a new one installed, and the welder has a working selector of V vs. A display. All this leads me to the conclusion that something is wrong with the vacuum pump on this station. Would you say that it should provide very strong suction? Any experience here? The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ Avoid the cheapos from Radio Shack, the Edsyn Soldapullt is far superior. It's simply a trigger-released spring-loaded plunger. The tip is teflon, self-clears when the tool is cocked. They can suck a rather surprising amount of solder per shot. They're way too big and clunky for surfacemount work, but they are great for thru-hole and for soldered terminals. Mine is at least 20 years old, still works perfectly. |
#2
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote:
The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ Don, which one would you recommend, I will buy whatever you think is the right one. To use them, you need to have a soldering gun in one hand and pump in the other hand, right? Avoid the cheapos from Radio Shack, the Edsyn Soldapullt is far superior. It's simply a trigger-released spring-loaded plunger. The tip is teflon, self-clears when the tool is cocked. They can suck a rather surprising amount of solder per shot. They're way too big and clunky for surfacemount work, but they are great for thru-hole and for soldered terminals. Yes, I obviously have no knowledge or skill to work with modern, miniature circuit boards. But the stuff like that Miller display, I could fix. Miller, also, has done a great job at making repairable circuit boards. i |
#3
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:12:18 -0600, Ignoramus19508
wrote: On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote: The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ Don, which one would you recommend, I will buy whatever you think is the right one. The one I have is the DS017, their original model. If you work much with very static-sensitive circuitry than the DS017LS might be a good choice. To use them, you need to have a soldering gun in one hand and pump in the other hand, right? Yes. Get the joint thoroughly molten, adding solder if necessary, then apply tip of soldersucker and push the button. Thuup! If it's a part on a printed wiring board, it often works best to suck out the holes from the non-component side because the sucker tip has a clear shot at the hole. It doesn't always suck the joint clear dry, but usually dry enough that wires and leads can then be jiggled or popped loose. Sometimes parts just fall out, but not always. I have developed the habit of flipping my wrist and whacking the plunger on the bench to recock after each use. Then it's ready to go when the next joint is melted. |
#4
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:12:18 -0600, Ignoramus19508 wrote: 3 On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote: The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ Don, which one would you recommend, I will buy whatever you think is the right one. The one I have is the DS017, their original model. If you work much with very static-sensitive circuitry than the DS017LS might be a good choice. Thanks. I bought AS196LS and some tips thereof. Might sell the rework station if this one works OK. Also got some conformal coating. i |
#5
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Iggy,
years ago, I got a broken Pace de-soldering handpiece. I repaired the broken top ( a couple of small L brackets). So there I was a de-soldering gun with no vacuum source. The thrift shops came to my rescue. I found a daisy seal a meal. A little bit of fish tank air tubing, a foot switch and a standard light dimmer, all fashioned together in a box ( http://members.cox.net/rbelisle1/TOWER%20OF%20POWER.jpg ) and I have a temp adjustable de-soldering system that works great. I did have to buy tips about 2 years ago, but I bought ten on ebay and that should last forever. I little hint, if you take out the tip and reverse it, the other end has a bigger end!!!! I added a couple of other things to the box, but what your looking at is the top part, handset, timer (cause I am old and forget things) and light dimmer. The rest of the stuff is for the variacts at the bottom. bob in phx "Ignoramus19508" wrote in message ... On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote: The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ Don, which one would you recommend, I will buy whatever you think is the right one. To use them, you need to have a soldering gun in one hand and pump in the other hand, right? Avoid the cheapos from Radio Shack, the Edsyn Soldapullt is far superior. It's simply a trigger-released spring-loaded plunger. The tip is teflon, self-clears when the tool is cocked. They can suck a rather surprising amount of solder per shot. They're way too big and clunky for surfacemount work, but they are great for thru-hole and for soldered terminals. Yes, I obviously have no knowledge or skill to work with modern, miniature circuit boards. But the stuff like that Miller display, I could fix. Miller, also, has done a great job at making repairable circuit boards. i |
#6
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Ignoramus19508 wrote:
On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote: The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ No, these things (at least with the right handpiece, like the SX70) can remove an INCREDIBLE amount of solder in one slurp. Remember, companies won't pay $2500 for something like this if it didn't actually work. One nice thing about this sort of unit is it has a temperature-controlled heater with temperature readout of the tip, and the heating tip is also the sucker, so you don't have to switch quickly from soldering iron to sucker before the joint cools. Another nice thing about the high-end Pace and Weller gear is that individual replacement parts are available, so you can replace any single piece that wears out or breaks. Iggy wasn't replacing a high-power switch, but an electronic switch on the control circuit board. Those Soldapullt things are a JOKE compared to a Pace dsoldering system. I routinely salvage some expensive 68 pin through-hole connectors on 6-layer boards. I can just barely tell which pins are connected to the ground plane and which aren't when using the Pace. With a soldering iron and a soldapullt I would never be able to desolder one of those ground pins, the solder would freeze before I could get the soldapullt on it. Jon |
#7
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:56:01 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote: Ignoramus19508 wrote: On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote: The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ No, these things (at least with the right handpiece, like the SX70) can remove an INCREDIBLE amount of solder in one slurp. Remember, companies won't pay $2500 for something like this if it didn't actually work. One nice thing about this sort of unit is it has a temperature-controlled heater with temperature readout of the tip, and the heating tip is also the sucker, so you don't have to switch quickly from soldering iron to sucker before the joint cools. Another nice thing about the high-end Pace and Weller gear is that individual replacement parts are available, so you can replace any single piece that wears out or breaks. Iggy wasn't replacing a high-power switch, but an electronic switch on the control circuit board. It was a larger-than-microscopic thru-hole component on a fairly low-tech board, was it not? I've not seen anything in a Miller welder that looks much like the innards of a cellphone... Those Soldapullt things are a JOKE compared to a Pace dsoldering system. I routinely salvage some expensive 68 pin through-hole connectors on 6-layer boards. I can just barely tell which pins are connected to the ground plane and which aren't when using the Pace. With a soldering iron and a soldapullt I would never be able to desolder one of those ground pins, the solder would freeze before I could get the soldapullt on it. Jon I certainly won't refute your good experience with the $2500 tool ... but if you didn't have the $2500 tool available to you then you might benefit from a Soldapullt lesson by a technician who is proficient with one. I also doubt that repair of circuit boards in Miller Welders is strongly comparable to the rather more sophisticated and challenging work you do with 68-pin connectors on 6-layer boards. |
#8
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On 2008-01-31, Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:56:01 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: Ignoramus19508 wrote: On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote: The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ No, these things (at least with the right handpiece, like the SX70) can remove an INCREDIBLE amount of solder in one slurp. Remember, companies won't pay $2500 for something like this if it didn't actually work. One nice thing about this sort of unit is it has a temperature-controlled heater with temperature readout of the tip, and the heating tip is also the sucker, so you don't have to switch quickly from soldering iron to sucker before the joint cools. Another nice thing about the high-end Pace and Weller gear is that individual replacement parts are available, so you can replace any single piece that wears out or breaks. Iggy wasn't replacing a high-power switch, but an electronic switch on the control circuit board. It was a larger-than-microscopic thru-hole component on a fairly low-tech board, was it not? I've not seen anything in a Miller welder that looks much like the innards of a cellphone... The leads of the switch were rather fat. Those Soldapullt things are a JOKE compared to a Pace dsoldering system. I routinely salvage some expensive 68 pin through-hole connectors on 6-layer boards. I can just barely tell which pins are connected to the ground plane and which aren't when using the Pace. With a soldering iron and a soldapullt I would never be able to desolder one of those ground pins, the solder would freeze before I could get the soldapullt on it. Jon I certainly won't refute your good experience with the $2500 tool ... but if you didn't have the $2500 tool available to you then you might benefit from a Soldapullt lesson by a technician who is proficient with one. No argument here. I also doubt that repair of circuit boards in Miller Welders is strongly comparable to the rather more sophisticated and challenging work you do with 68-pin connectors on 6-layer boards. In fact, this is what I like about these boards, they are 1) very low tech and 2) easy to repair due to good part placement 3) easy to identify components, which look mostly off the shelf. My repair was, obviously, the most trivial kind, but I appreciated repairability of these boards. i |
#9
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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![]() Ignoramus19508 wrote: On 2008-01-31, Don Foreman wrote: In fact, this is what I like about these boards, they are 1) very low tech and 2) easy to repair due to good part placement 3) easy to identify components, which look mostly off the shelf. My repair was, obviously, the most trivial kind, but I appreciated repairability of these boards. I had to dig into my 800+ Pound Lincoln square-wave TIG 300 machine, and old-school transformer AC/DC constant-current power source with SCR phase control. Well, the power components are mostly brazed, welded, etc. and then everything bolts together. But, there are several fairly large circuit boards in it. There is a main control board that pretty much covers the entire back of the control panel, and then a power supply board, a phase controller board and a safety board, as I recall. Yes, everything is off the shelf, resistors, caps, ICs, pots and switches, etc. The shield gas post flow timer was bad, and I had to trace the wiring and replace it. As the damn boards are all conformal coated, I DID use my Pace tool to desolder it, it does a much better job when the going gets rough. Jon |
#10
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 23:23:07 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote: I certainly won't refute your good experience with the $2500 tool ... but if you didn't have the $2500 tool available to you then you might benefit from a Soldapullt lesson by a technician who is proficient with one. I also doubt that repair of circuit boards in Miller Welders is strongly comparable to the rather more sophisticated and challenging work you do with 68-pin connectors on 6-layer boards. I've used both (Pace and Soldapullt) and a Soldapullt would beat the Pace on oinky work. I learned desoldering with a Soldapullt so maybe that is why I could make it work well. I had a Pace desolder-station, two Weller pencils and two 250 watt plus guns at my bench. The Pace required continuous maintenance (as others have said) and it worked well, but a Soldapullt could beat it albeit at a slower rate. I worked on surface mount itsy-bitsy stuff all the way up to... We also had a Hotair station for surface mount chips but that is a whole'nuther discussion... For Jon, if you are pulling the pencil away from the joint and then moving the Soldapullt in, you are doing it wrong. You leave the pencil on the joint, rest the Soldapullt tip so it touches the board but not the pencil tip and then fire it. Be careful about this, it you contact the pencil tip too much with the Soldapullt you can damage the circuit board trace when it fires. The mini/small Soldapullt's are crap, (like the model US140 Edsyn Universal Soldapullt) not enough suction. Get the big one like Don linked to. I still have two Soldapullt's, the old Blue and yellow (DS017) and the silver anti-static version (AS196). They are both over 15 years old and still work fine. Desolder stations on nice to have, but a bit pricey for only occasional use. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#11
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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![]() Leon Fisk wrote: On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 23:23:07 -0600, Don Foreman wrote: I certainly won't refute your good experience with the $2500 tool ... but if you didn't have the $2500 tool available to you then you might benefit from a Soldapullt lesson by a technician who is proficient with one. I also doubt that repair of circuit boards in Miller Welders is strongly comparable to the rather more sophisticated and challenging work you do with 68-pin connectors on 6-layer boards. I've used both (Pace and Soldapullt) and a Soldapullt would beat the Pace on oinky work. I learned desoldering with a Soldapullt so maybe that is why I could make it work well. I had a Pace desolder-station, two Weller pencils and two 250 watt plus guns at my bench. The Pace required continuous maintenance (as others have said) and it worked well, but a Soldapullt could beat it albeit at a slower rate. I worked on surface mount itsy-bitsy stuff all the way up to... We also had a Hotair station for surface mount chips but that is a whole'nuther discussion... For Jon, if you are pulling the pencil away from the joint and then moving the Soldapullt in, you are doing it wrong. You leave the pencil on the joint, rest the Soldapullt tip so it touches the board but not the pencil tip and then fire it. Be careful about this, it you contact the pencil tip too much with the Soldapullt you can damage the circuit board trace when it fires. Believe me, I know how to use it. I've been using them since, oh, 1972 or so. The mini/small Soldapullt's are crap, (like the model US140 Edsyn Universal Soldapullt) not enough suction. Get the big one like Don linked to. I still have two Soldapullt's, the old Blue and yellow (DS017) and the silver anti-static version (AS196). They are both over 15 years old and still work fine. Desolder stations on nice to have, but a bit pricey for only occasional use. Oh, I definitely was not suggesting that everyone go out and buy a Pace station. But, Iggy already HAD the station, it just wasn't working right. And, yes, they do take some maintenance, but when doing a bunch of connections, there's nothing that can do it faster. When I use a Soldapullt, I still have to mess with breaking the pins free of the last bit of solder. When I use a Pace, I apply suction while orbiting the desolder tip around the pin, causing the pin to orbit in the PCB hole. This gets the pin/hole cleared of solder much more effectively. This is the technique taught in the Pace manuals, and I can tell you, it is VERY effective. Like these 68-pin connectors in the 6-layer board, when I get the last pin unsoldered, it just falls off the board. Jon |
#12
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 23:23:07 -0600, Don Foreman wrote: I certainly won't refute your good experience with the $2500 tool ... but if you didn't have the $2500 tool available to you then you might benefit from a Soldapullt lesson by a technician who is proficient with one. I also doubt that repair of circuit boards in Miller Welders is strongly comparable to the rather more sophisticated and challenging work you do with 68-pin connectors on 6-layer boards. I've used both (Pace and Soldapullt) and a Soldapullt would beat the Pace on oinky work. I learned desoldering with a Soldapullt so maybe that is why I could make it work well. I had a Pace desolder-station, two Weller pencils and two 250 watt plus guns at my bench. The Pace required continuous maintenance (as others have said) and it worked well, but a Soldapullt could beat it albeit at a slower rate. I worked on surface mount itsy-bitsy stuff all the way up to... We also had a Hotair station for surface mount chips but that is a whole'nuther discussion... For Jon, if you are pulling the pencil away from the joint and then moving the Soldapullt in, you are doing it wrong. Correct. The solder has to be completely melted, and not freezing when you remove it. You leave the pencil on the joint, rest the Soldapullt tip so it touches the board but not the pencil tip and then fire it. Be careful about this, it you contact the pencil tip too much with the Soldapullt you can damage the circuit board trace when it fires. The mini/small Soldapullt's are crap, (like the model US140 Edsyn Universal Soldapullt) not enough suction. Get the big one like Don linked to. I still have two Soldapullt's, the old Blue and yellow (DS017) and the silver anti-static version (AS196). They are both over 15 years old and still work fine. The only maintence they could ever need is a new tip and maybe a drop of lube on the o-ring. Desolder stations on nice to have, but a bit pricey for only occasional use. I don't do any smd stuff, but I really can't think of any desoldering task task that wasn't doable with just a solder sucker and maybe desoldering braid. The most important thing to have is a decent soldering iron and the correct sized tips. Even cheapo weller irons are perfectly acceptable for most work. Adding more solder to a joint being undone will almost always help. |
#13
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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![]() Don Foreman wrote: On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:56:01 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: Those Soldapullt things are a JOKE compared to a Pace dsoldering system. I routinely salvage some expensive 68 pin through-hole connectors on 6-layer boards. I can just barely tell which pins are connected to the ground plane and which aren't when using the Pace. With a soldering iron and a soldapullt I would never be able to desolder one of those ground pins, the solder would freeze before I could get the soldapullt on it. Jon I certainly won't refute your good experience with the $2500 tool ... but if you didn't have the $2500 tool available to you then you might benefit from a Soldapullt lesson by a technician who is proficient with one. Well, I have several of them, too, and even use them if I am desoldering just a couple joints. The Pace takes a long time to heat up. But, if I have a whole bunch of contacts to desolder, or the configuration looks like it is going to be one of those difficult jobs, there is nothing like a Pace. Iggy already has a very expensive Pace system on his bench, it was just misbehaving. I also doubt that repair of circuit boards in Miller Welders is strongly comparable to the rather more sophisticated and challenging work you do with 68-pin connectors on 6-layer boards. I'm sure there is some heavy power stuff in there, but likely not much that needs a desoldering tool. (You'd need the XXXXL version of the Soldapullt to unsoder the main transformer wire, I think. It would be the size of a truck shock absorber!) All the higher-end welders today have a bunch of chips and circuit boards in them for the control and timing functions. That is pretty much as Iggy described what he was doing. Jon |
#14
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On 2008-01-31, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus19508 wrote: On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote: The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ No, these things (at least with the right handpiece, like the SX70) can remove an INCREDIBLE amount of solder in one slurp. Remember, companies won't pay $2500 for something like this if it didn't actually work. One nice thing about this sort of unit is it has a temperature-controlled heater with temperature readout of the tip, and the heating tip is also the sucker, so you don't have to switch quickly from soldering iron to sucker before the joint cools. Another nice thing about the high-end Pace and Weller gear is that individual replacement parts are available, so you can replace any single piece that wears out or breaks. After adjusting vacuum adjustment to highest vacuum, I tried the PACE station today on some junk boards, it sucks solder very well now. I do indeed like its temp control and other features. I have it set at 950 degrees. I will now look for accessories for it. i |
#15
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On Jan 31, 1:28 am, Ignoramus19508 ignoramus19...@NOSPAM.
19508.invalid wrote: On 2008-01-31, Jon Elson wrote: Ignoramus19508 wrote: On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote: The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ No, these things (at least with the right handpiece, like the SX70) can remove an INCREDIBLE amount of solder in one slurp. Remember, companies won't pay $2500 for something like this if it didn't actually work. One nice thing about this sort of unit is it has a temperature-controlled heater with temperature readout of the tip, and the heating tip is also the sucker, so you don't have to switch quickly from soldering iron to sucker before the joint cools. Another nice thing about the high-end Pace and Weller gear is that individual replacement parts are available, so you can replace any single piece that wears out or breaks. After adjusting vacuum adjustment to highest vacuum, I tried the PACE station today on some junk boards, it sucks solder very well now. I do indeed like its temp control and other features. I have it set at 950 degrees. I will now look for accessories for it. i Ig Those pace stations truly do separate TEMPERATURE and POWER the "sensatemp" family of irons deliver their power at whatever temperature they are set at. they will melt more at 5-600F than at 900F without damaging the underlying equipment when its sensitive to high heat. you might actually NOT want to spike the heat while desoldering since that will not help significantly in desoldering and might damage the IC's being desoldered more BTW feel free to contact me if you happen across spare PACE sensatemp handles or if you want any pace MBT (Build in Vacuum and air) power suppilies Brent Ottawa Caanda |
#16
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On 2008-01-31, Brent wrote:
On Jan 31, 1:28 am, Ignoramus19508 ignoramus19...@NOSPAM. 19508.invalid wrote: On 2008-01-31, Jon Elson wrote: Ignoramus19508 wrote: On 2008-01-30, Don Foreman wrote: The name (SMD2000) suggests that it is intended mostly for use with surfacemount devices. Very little solder is used per connection with these tiny devices and soldering irons (as by Pace) are quite small. A better choice for larger connections, like switches in a welder, would be a heavier iron (Weller?) and a manual soldersucker as "Soldapullt". http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...uct/2920-0019/ No, these things (at least with the right handpiece, like the SX70) can remove an INCREDIBLE amount of solder in one slurp. Remember, companies won't pay $2500 for something like this if it didn't actually work. One nice thing about this sort of unit is it has a temperature-controlled heater with temperature readout of the tip, and the heating tip is also the sucker, so you don't have to switch quickly from soldering iron to sucker before the joint cools. Another nice thing about the high-end Pace and Weller gear is that individual replacement parts are available, so you can replace any single piece that wears out or breaks. After adjusting vacuum adjustment to highest vacuum, I tried the PACE station today on some junk boards, it sucks solder very well now. I do indeed like its temp control and other features. I have it set at 950 degrees. I will now look for accessories for it. i Ig Those pace stations truly do separate TEMPERATURE and POWER the "sensatemp" family of irons deliver their power at whatever temperature they are set at. they will melt more at 5-600F than at 900F without damaging the underlying equipment when its sensitive to high heat. Yes, that's what mine does. you might actually NOT want to spike the heat while desoldering since that will not help significantly in desoldering and might damage the IC's being desoldered more BTW feel free to contact me if you happen across spare PACE sensatemp handles or if you want any pace MBT (Build in Vacuum and air) power suppilies thanks... that would not be me... I am looking for tips... i |
#17
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![]() Ignoramus19508 wrote: I do indeed like its temp control and other features. I have it set at 950 degrees. I will now look for accessories for it. Ouch, that's real high. If I was wanting to repair the PC board (rather than salvaging the chips) I would stay below 800. I often run it at 750. If you get good heat transfer at 950 the traces will come off the boards for sure. Jon |
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