Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

At one time it was a Trail-Rite sailboat trailer with a keel beam
and four bunker pads. I axed off the rear bunker bases with a
Sawzall, put a 2X4 on the keel support 2X8 for center support, and
dropped on 3/4" CDX Plywood. Made ramps from 12" cable rack, some
1/2" U-bolts for tiedown anchors.

I'm going to have to redo it again, might as well do it right this
time... Clean up the rails and go get some angle for floor stringers
and steel tube for side rails. Rebuild the rear drop ramp, place a
couple of swivel-down or built-in drop jacks for loading. Put on
real side rails and D rings, make a 4" square tubing rear bumper with
oval grommet mount lamps.

Decision time #1 - What to use for a deck, and where to get a decent
deal.

Whether to use plywood again (properly weather treated this time),
or expanded metal, or diamond-tread steel floor plate, or Oak plank...

I'm leaning toward 6' x 16' 1/8" diamond-plate with cross stringers
every 16" to 24", but then I have to flip the whole thing up on it's
side to paint the bottom...

(Shop crane again. Or a chain-fall from a big tree.)

Problem #2 - Anyone got any surplus/reasonable 1-1/2" square tubing
and angle? Mill lengths are OK, the trailer is 20'4" long - they just
put a curve into two 21-footers and welded on the coupler.

I really should prune the stupid thing, but no matter how many times
you cut it the trailer still ends up too short...

Problem #3 - (PAGING TOM GARDNER) Brush wire gage and style
suggestions needed for loose chalking paint & light derusting of 4"
C-channel + final fresh weld and steel prep for paint. Will need cup
and end styles for various areas.

Numbers like 4862A83 or 4775A146 are acceptable for the quantities
needed, UPS can have them here between the sneeze and the Gesundheit.
;-) 4-1/2" DeWalt angle grinder (5/8 thread) would be my weapon of
first choice - unless you think I should go buy a 7" for the top...

-- Bruce --

On Dec 29, 10:19*pm, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
* Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

* Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. *Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... *;-)

* At one time it was a Trail-Rite sailboat trailer with a keel beam
and four bunker pads. *I axed off the rear bunker bases with a
Sawzall, put a 2X4 on the keel support 2X8 for center support, and
dropped on 3/4" CDX Plywood. *Made ramps from 12" cable rack, some
1/2" U-bolts for tiedown anchors.

* I'm going to have to redo it again, might as well do it right this
time... *Clean up the rails and go get some angle for floor stringers
and steel tube for side rails. *Rebuild the rear drop ramp, place a
couple of swivel-down or built-in drop jacks for loading. * Put on
real side rails and D rings, make a 4" square tubing rear bumper with
oval grommet mount lamps.

* Decision time #1 - What to use for a deck, and where to get a decent
deal.

* Whether to use plywood again (properly weather treated this time),
or expanded metal, or diamond-tread steel floor plate, or Oak plank...

* I'm leaning toward 6' x 16' 1/8" diamond-plate with cross stringers
every 16" to 24", but then I have to flip the whole thing up on it's
side to paint the bottom...

* (Shop crane again. *Or a chain-fall from a big tree.)

* Problem #2 - Anyone got any surplus/reasonable 1-1/2" square tubing
and angle? *Mill lengths are OK, the trailer is 20'4" long - they just
put a curve into two 21-footers and welded on the coupler.

* I really should prune the stupid thing, but no matter how many times
you cut it the trailer still ends up too short...

* Problem #3 - (PAGING TOM GARDNER) *Brush wire gage and style
suggestions needed for loose chalking paint & light derusting of 4"
C-channel + final fresh weld and steel prep for paint. *Will need cup
and end styles for various areas.

* Numbers like 4862A83 or 4775A146 are acceptable for the quantities
needed, UPS can have them here between the sneeze and the Gesundheit.
;-) *4-1/2" DeWalt angle grinder (5/8 thread) would be my weapon of
first choice - unless you think I should go buy a 7" for the top...

* -- Bruce --

I'll be watching this discussion with interest.

My guess is that anything of significant metal will cost you an arm
and a leg.

Any treated lumber will be corrosive.

That leaves you with lumber...that will rot.



TMT

On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 21:13:56 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 29, 10:19*pm, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
* Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

* Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. *Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... *;-)

* At one time it was a Trail-Rite sailboat trailer with a keel beam
and four bunker pads. *I axed off the rear bunker bases with a
Sawzall, put a 2X4 on the keel support 2X8 for center support, and
dropped on 3/4" CDX Plywood. *Made ramps from 12" cable rack, some
1/2" U-bolts for tiedown anchors.

* I'm going to have to redo it again, might as well do it right this
time... *Clean up the rails and go get some angle for floor stringers
and steel tube for side rails. *Rebuild the rear drop ramp, place a
couple of swivel-down or built-in drop jacks for loading. * Put on
real side rails and D rings, make a 4" square tubing rear bumper with
oval grommet mount lamps.

* Decision time #1 - What to use for a deck, and where to get a decent
deal.

* Whether to use plywood again (properly weather treated this time),
or expanded metal, or diamond-tread steel floor plate, or Oak plank...

* I'm leaning toward 6' x 16' 1/8" diamond-plate with cross stringers
every 16" to 24", but then I have to flip the whole thing up on it's
side to paint the bottom...

* (Shop crane again. *Or a chain-fall from a big tree.)

* Problem #2 - Anyone got any surplus/reasonable 1-1/2" square tubing
and angle? *Mill lengths are OK, the trailer is 20'4" long - they just
put a curve into two 21-footers and welded on the coupler.

* I really should prune the stupid thing, but no matter how many times
you cut it the trailer still ends up too short...

* Problem #3 - (PAGING TOM GARDNER) *Brush wire gage and style
suggestions needed for loose chalking paint & light derusting of 4"
C-channel + final fresh weld and steel prep for paint. *Will need cup
and end styles for various areas.

* Numbers like 4862A83 or 4775A146 are acceptable for the quantities
needed, UPS can have them here between the sneeze and the Gesundheit.
;-) *4-1/2" DeWalt angle grinder (5/8 thread) would be my weapon of
first choice - unless you think I should go buy a 7" for the top...

* -- Bruce --

I'll be watching this discussion with interest.

My guess is that anything of significant metal will cost you an arm
and a leg.

Any treated lumber will be corrosive.

That leaves you with lumber...that will rot.



TMT

The bunkers on the trailer for my Ensenada 20, are made out of
redwood. Been holding up pretty well for 20 yrs.

Why put a deck in it?

Gunner

On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 23:29:39 -0500, Gunner Asch
wrote:

The bunkers on the trailer for my Ensenada 20, are made out of
redwood. Been holding up pretty well for 20 yrs.

Why put a deck in it?

Hell, you already know this one - the CHP gets really ****ed when
you drop big things all over /their/ freeway.

Considering that what I have now is two framerails, a coupler, an
axle, and a few cross-members, anything smaller than about 5'x5' will
fall straight through... Decks keep things off the road.

Where's that guy with the steel yard?

-- Bruce --

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 09:12:49 -0800, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 23:29:39 -0500, Gunner Asch
wrote:

The bunkers on the trailer for my Ensenada 20, are made out of
redwood. Been holding up pretty well for 20 yrs.

Why put a deck in it?

Hell, you already know this one - the CHP gets really ****ed when
you drop big things all over /their/ freeway.

Considering that what I have now is two framerails, a coupler, an
axle, and a few cross-members, anything smaller than about 5'x5' will
fall straight through... Decks keep things off the road.

Stuff normally fall off your sailboat? This is a boat trailer, right?

Where's that guy with the steel yard?

http://www.unicornmetals.com/
(look in Contact)

Ask for Rito, tell him Gunner referred you.


-- Bruce --

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 10:02:26 -0500, Gunner Asch
wrote:

Stuff normally fall off your sailboat? This is a boat trailer, right?

/Was/ a boat trailer. It's been a half-assed "toy hauler" flatbed
conversion for years, now it needs to morph into a properly built one
with side rails and proper 'hardened' tie-down points.

Or a Golf Cart hauler for when we have a big project I can't park
nearby, or there's work all over a complex - make fifty trips out to
the truck for parts, and hoofing it gets old fast.

Or to bring 20' lengths of steel home from Industrial Metal Supply
or Unicorn Metals (or whomever...), or strap down a pallet or two of
assorted 'stuff'...

Where's that guy with the steel yard?

http://www.unicornmetals.com/
(look in Contact)

Ask for Rito, tell him Gunner referred you.

Got it. Get a few bids, then call him last.

Is he at the "Scrap Processing Facility" on 4th St. or the "Metal
Sales Facility" on Lambert? Interesting photo/inventory section, too
bad it hasn't been updated in over a year.

-- Bruce --

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...


Hell, you already know this one - the CHP gets really ****ed when
you drop big things all over /their/ freeway.

Considering that what I have now is two framerails, a coupler, an
axle, and a few cross-members, anything smaller than about 5'x5' will
fall straight through... Decks keep things off the road.

Where's that guy with the steel yard?

-- Bruce --


yeah, sorry, the steel yard i'm talking about ("fall steel" in gardiner ny)
is in southeast new york state. i figured there's got to be a steel
building fabricator (that's what he does, he cuts/drills the steel beams for
steel framed buildings) somewhere near prolly everyone. he sells steel to
the public on the side.

b.w.

(the first place i stopped to ask was "orange county iron works", (owned by
paul teutel sr., or, i think previously owned by teutel sr., i think they
sold out/went bankrupt/reorganized since). i didn't get to talk to sr. (of
course) :-) but the nice lady who seemed to be running the show there told
me they "don't have cut offs or left overs" lol :-( . )

"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
...
On Dec 29, 10:19 pm, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

...

-- Bruce --

I'll be watching this discussion with interest.
My guess is that anything of significant metal will cost you an arm
and a leg.
Any treated lumber will be corrosive.
That leaves you with lumber...that will rot.

TMT




i've been wanting to build a trailer. i've been thinking about/wondering
about using the corrugated steel deck they use to cast concrete floors, i do
believe it's electroplated zinc. i calculated the weight as opposed to
using treated 2x stock. i think it would be lighter. i have no idea how to
calculate the comparison in strength. i can't remember now what gauges are
available, i can't remember if it was 12 gauge or 9 gauge. i think it was
12. a local steel guy told me he'd sell me a piece for i think it was $100
or $125. it's been a while, i can't remember if it's 20 feet long or 25
feet long by maybe 4 (or so) feet wide. i think i'm trying to say it seems
to me it wouldn't necessarily cost an arm and a leg, not a lot more than if
you bought treated 2x8's at home depot. i posted a message here about this
before hoping to generate discussion but ppfffttt. i'd imagine it wouldn't
have the resiliency that wood would have, if you dropped stuff on it it
would bend instead of flex... but the bed of my pick up is stamped out of
MUCH thinner material, i'm hoping to just not drop stuff on it. was
thinking i'd secure it to 3/16 angle with either 3/16 stainless pop rivets
or those self tapping hex head sheet metal screws.
i posted this link before, as an example of what i'm talking about, but
again, the response was ppffft. wondering if this is a dumb idea.
http://www.jamesriversteel.com/floor.htm
(i just clicked on the link, i didn't see 9 gauge so i guess it must've
either been 12 or 16 gauge i looked at at the steel yard.)
(says it's 3' cover, i can't remember how long the sheets are, maybe they
were just 20 feet long, seemed awful long though. i think what i was
looking at at the steel yard was "type F" profile.)

b.w.

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:50:00 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
...
On Dec 29, 10:19 pm, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

I'll be watching this discussion with interest.
My guess is that anything of significant metal will cost you an arm
and a leg.
Any treated lumber will be corrosive.
That leaves you with lumber...that will rot.

Well, at least lumber rots a whole lot slower than plywood.

Redwood 2x6 over 1-1/2" steel tubing stringers on 16" centers looks
cost effective, unless I can get a deal on oak planks or tread-plate.

i've been wanting to build a trailer. i've been thinking about/wondering
about using the corrugated steel deck they use to cast concrete floors, i do
believe it's electroplated zinc. i calculated the weight as opposed to
using treated 2x stock.

The problem with that steel floor decking is the ribs are way too
deep - that stuff is meant for building construction where they place
it over ~20' spaced steel beams, and then they place reinforcing wire
mats and pour a sub-floor slab in lightweight concrete. That gets
them a one-hour or two-hour fire rating on the floor.

For the roof, they use the steel deck, then a thin layer of plywood,
then a hot-mop roof.

It could work for a trailer, but you would still need some sort of
finish decking over it, like heavy plywood. And it wouldn't save you
much.

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...


The problem with that steel floor decking is the ribs are way too
deep - that stuff is meant for building construction where they place
it over ~20' spaced steel beams, and then they place reinforcing wire
mats and pour a sub-floor slab in lightweight concrete. That gets
them a one-hour or two-hour fire rating on the floor.

For the roof, they use the steel deck, then a thin layer of plywood,
then a hot-mop roof.

It could work for a trailer, but you would still need some sort of
finish decking over it, like heavy plywood. And it wouldn't save you
much.


huh. thanks for the reply. yeah, i was wondering about the deep recesses
of the ribs. i thought maybe i might have to put plywood on it. i think
the way i calculated it even with the plywood there'd still be a weight
savings over 2x's. just now i wondered about putting "thin" sheet metal on
top, pop riveting it or whatever to the ribs. just rolling a couple ideas
around in my head. i was hoping to come up with a clever substitution for
other decking materials, i guess mainly with the objective of saving weight.
there would be some weight savings over using 2x stock. at one point i took
a bathroom scale to home depot and weighed their 2x stock and averaged it
and compared the average weight to steel decking. the steel was lighter but
i can't remember now by how much, i think it was close to 100 pounds or so.
but then again, the wood at home depot felt wet... so maybe after the wood
thoroughly dried the weight savings would diminish or disappear. don't
know. i also hoped it might last longer than, well, than untreated lumber
at least. i thought, at least for my purposes the 1 1/2" depth of the ribs
wouldn't create undesirable consequences. maybe they might even make
decking with lower profiles, can't remember. someday i hope to try it.
i'll tell y'all how it goes. just wanted to throw the idea out there to the
group to see what y'all thought. jeez, i have it written down somewhere but
i don't know where, i THINK maybe even the steel was cheaper than using
wood... but i can't remember. and this was last year or so, so maybe steel
costs more now. i think the thing i was most worried about was putting a
$20,000 tractor on it and driving down the road and having the deck bend in
half in the middle over the axle of the trailer. that would be
embarrassing.

b.w.

oh, and one more thing. i came across this last night and wanted to post a
link to the group. i hoped there might be at least a couple denizens of
r.c.m. who'd like it, that is if you haven't already seen it. isn't she
just the cutest thing?! all american gal. wish i had a girlfriend like
that. i wonder if it's an 870 she's got. i used to know what car that is
in teh background, front wheel drive but can't remember the model now.

http://www.cynicalnation.com/img/****_yeah.jpg

IMHO redwood is too soft, too weak for decking.

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:50:00 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
...
On Dec 29, 10:19 pm, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)
I'll be watching this discussion with interest.
My guess is that anything of significant metal will cost you an arm
and a leg.
Any treated lumber will be corrosive.
That leaves you with lumber...that will rot.

Well, at least lumber rots a whole lot slower than plywood.

Redwood 2x6 over 1-1/2" steel tubing stringers on 16" centers looks
cost effective, unless I can get a deal on oak planks or tread-plate.

i've been wanting to build a trailer. i've been thinking about/wondering
about using the corrugated steel deck they use to cast concrete floors, i do
believe it's electroplated zinc. i calculated the weight as opposed to
using treated 2x stock.

The problem with that steel floor decking is the ribs are way too
deep - that stuff is meant for building construction where they place
it over ~20' spaced steel beams, and then they place reinforcing wire
mats and pour a sub-floor slab in lightweight concrete. That gets
them a one-hour or two-hour fire rating on the floor.

For the roof, they use the steel deck, then a thin layer of plywood,
then a hot-mop roof.

It could work for a trailer, but you would still need some sort of
finish decking over it, like heavy plywood. And it wouldn't save you
much.

On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 12:50:39 -0600, RoyJ
wrote:

IMHO redwood is too soft, too weak for decking.

Too fragile anyway- lowest impact resistance of any wood I've worked
with.

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:50:00 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
...
On Dec 29, 10:19 pm, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)
I'll be watching this discussion with interest.
My guess is that anything of significant metal will cost you an arm
and a leg.
Any treated lumber will be corrosive.
That leaves you with lumber...that will rot.

Well, at least lumber rots a whole lot slower than plywood.

Redwood 2x6 over 1-1/2" steel tubing stringers on 16" centers looks
cost effective, unless I can get a deal on oak planks or tread-plate.

i've been wanting to build a trailer. i've been thinking about/wondering
about using the corrugated steel deck they use to cast concrete floors, i do
believe it's electroplated zinc. i calculated the weight as opposed to
using treated 2x stock.

The problem with that steel floor decking is the ribs are way too
deep - that stuff is meant for building construction where they place
it over ~20' spaced steel beams, and then they place reinforcing wire
mats and pour a sub-floor slab in lightweight concrete. That gets
them a one-hour or two-hour fire rating on the floor.

For the roof, they use the steel deck, then a thin layer of plywood,
then a hot-mop roof.

It could work for a trailer, but you would still need some sort of
finish decking over it, like heavy plywood. And it wouldn't save you
much.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Redwood is a hardwood.
I have benches built out of it and used to have a 2800 square foot
deck spanning 3 levels from 28' high down to 4' off the ground off
the house and into the trees and back under the upper deck.

I used two 2" x 16" x48" as an overhead to pick up my mill. It was
supported by a chain hoist on a bolt on washers through the two boards.


The outer bark that prevents burning in a fire is soft like marshmallow.
But the heartwood (not sapwood) is reddish - is strong. Most of San Francisco
was rebuilt using Redwood after the 07 quake and fire. So the beams in
foundations and rafters and porches.... houses.

Typically one sees cedar and thinks redwood. Or it is and old table
that has dry rotted out and seems weak on the surface.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


RoyJ wrote:
IMHO redwood is too soft, too weak for decking.

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:50:00 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
...
On Dec 29, 10:19 pm, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)
I'll be watching this discussion with interest.
My guess is that anything of significant metal will cost you an arm
and a leg.
Any treated lumber will be corrosive.
That leaves you with lumber...that will rot.

Well, at least lumber rots a whole lot slower than plywood.

Redwood 2x6 over 1-1/2" steel tubing stringers on 16" centers looks
cost effective, unless I can get a deal on oak planks or tread-plate.

i've been wanting to build a trailer. i've been thinking
about/wondering about using the corrugated steel deck they use to
cast concrete floors, i do believe it's electroplated zinc. i
calculated the weight as opposed to using treated 2x stock.

The problem with that steel floor decking is the ribs are way too
deep - that stuff is meant for building construction where they place
it over ~20' spaced steel beams, and then they place reinforcing wire
mats and pour a sub-floor slab in lightweight concrete. That gets
them a one-hour or two-hour fire rating on the floor.

For the roof, they use the steel deck, then a thin layer of plywood,
then a hot-mop roof.

It could work for a trailer, but you would still need some sort of
finish decking over it, like heavy plywood. And it wouldn't save you
much.

I'd use planking. It is expensive because the wood is true.

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


RoyJ wrote:
IMHO redwood is too soft, too weak for decking.

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:50:00 GMT, "William Wixon"
wrote:
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
...
On Dec 29, 10:19 pm, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)
I'll be watching this discussion with interest.
My guess is that anything of significant metal will cost you an arm
and a leg.
Any treated lumber will be corrosive.
That leaves you with lumber...that will rot.

Well, at least lumber rots a whole lot slower than plywood.

Redwood 2x6 over 1-1/2" steel tubing stringers on 16" centers looks
cost effective, unless I can get a deal on oak planks or tread-plate.

i've been wanting to build a trailer. i've been thinking
about/wondering about using the corrugated steel deck they use to
cast concrete floors, i do believe it's electroplated zinc. i
calculated the weight as opposed to using treated 2x stock.

The problem with that steel floor decking is the ribs are way too
deep - that stuff is meant for building construction where they place
it over ~20' spaced steel beams, and then they place reinforcing wire
mats and pour a sub-floor slab in lightweight concrete. That gets
them a one-hour or two-hour fire rating on the floor.

For the roof, they use the steel deck, then a thin layer of plywood,
then a hot-mop roof.

It could work for a trailer, but you would still need some sort of
finish decking over it, like heavy plywood. And it wouldn't save you
much.

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

At one time it was a Trail-Rite sailboat trailer with a keel beam
and four bunker pads. I axed off the rear bunker bases with a
Sawzall, put a 2X4 on the keel support 2X8 for center support, and
dropped on 3/4" CDX Plywood. Made ramps from 12" cable rack, some
1/2" U-bolts for tiedown anchors.

I'm going to have to redo it again, might as well do it right this
time... Clean up the rails and go get some angle for floor stringers
and steel tube for side rails. Rebuild the rear drop ramp, place a
couple of swivel-down or built-in drop jacks for loading. Put on
real side rails and D rings, make a 4" square tubing rear bumper with
oval grommet mount lamps.

Decision time #1 - What to use for a deck, and where to get a decent
deal.

Whether to use plywood again (properly weather treated this time),
or expanded metal, or diamond-tread steel floor plate, or Oak plank...

I'm leaning toward 6' x 16' 1/8" diamond-plate with cross stringers
every 16" to 24", but then I have to flip the whole thing up on it's
side to paint the bottom...

(Shop crane again. Or a chain-fall from a big tree.)

Problem #2 - Anyone got any surplus/reasonable 1-1/2" square tubing
and angle? Mill lengths are OK, the trailer is 20'4" long - they just
put a curve into two 21-footers and welded on the coupler.

I really should prune the stupid thing, but no matter how many times
you cut it the trailer still ends up too short...

Problem #3 - (PAGING TOM GARDNER) Brush wire gage and style
suggestions needed for loose chalking paint & light derusting of 4"
C-channel + final fresh weld and steel prep for paint. Will need cup
and end styles for various areas.

Numbers like 4862A83 or 4775A146 are acceptable for the quantities
needed, UPS can have them here between the sneeze and the Gesundheit.
;-) 4-1/2" DeWalt angle grinder (5/8 thread) would be my weapon of
first choice - unless you think I should go buy a 7" for the top...

-- Bruce --


If you have a 4" mini-grinder, use 3" knot-type cup and 4" knot wheel, both in .014" wire. Same wire for end
brushes. If your tool is bigger than 4", use bigger brushes!

On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 20:19:43 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

At one time it was a Trail-Rite sailboat trailer with a keel beam
and four bunker pads. I axed off the rear bunker bases with a
Sawzall, put a 2X4 on the keel support 2X8 for center support, and
dropped on 3/4" CDX Plywood. Made ramps from 12" cable rack, some
1/2" U-bolts for tiedown anchors.

I'm going to have to redo it again, might as well do it right this
time... Clean up the rails and go get some angle for floor stringers
and steel tube for side rails. Rebuild the rear drop ramp, place a
couple of swivel-down or built-in drop jacks for loading. Put on
real side rails and D rings, make a 4" square tubing rear bumper with
oval grommet mount lamps.

Decision time #1 - What to use for a deck, and where to get a decent
deal.

Whether to use plywood again (properly weather treated this time),
or expanded metal, or diamond-tread steel floor plate, or Oak plank...

White oak or Purpleheart plank would get my nod. If you go with
Purpleheart, you'll have the fun of telling everyone who sees it what
it is. http://www.exotic-wood.com/purpleheart.htm
http://curiouswoods.com/wood--Purple-Heart--PH 8/4 is $5.25 b/f.
Find good deals on it at military surplus places? (Pinging Iggy) Do
NOT buy it through Rockler or any other place on Rodeo Drive.



I'm leaning toward 6' x 16' 1/8" diamond-plate with cross stringers
every 16" to 24", but then I have to flip the whole thing up on it's
side to paint the bottom...

You want to do that anyway, right?

--
Once we believe in ourselves, we can risk curiosity, wonder, spontaneous
delight, or any experience that reveals the human spirit.
--e e cummings

I have 3 different equipment trailers. They are all quite a bit
larger than your trailer. They are all decked with 2x6 treated
lumber. I trap the ends under angle iron (no thorns, so no
splitting). I do use 2 self drilling trailer deck screws on every
third crossmember. I do not try to make these fit tight side to
side. These trailers live outdoors with backhoe and tractors year
round. I have to replace the deck boards about every 10 years.
Knocked off the heavy rust, smeared primer on the steel, glued
down a piece of EPDM roofing because I had it and to prevent ACQ
erosion, installed the new deck boards. Leaking hydraulic,
diesel, or rear main just seems to add to the board treatment.
This system works for me.

I am also proud to top post this information, on purpose. Just
makes a lot more sense to me.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in
message ...
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other
'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again,
to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

At one time it was a Trail-Rite sailboat trailer with a keel
beam
and four bunker pads. I axed off the rear bunker bases with a
Sawzall, put a 2X4 on the keel support 2X8 for center support,
and
dropped on 3/4" CDX Plywood. Made ramps from 12" cable rack,
some
1/2" U-bolts for tiedown anchors.

I'm going to have to redo it again, might as well do it right
this
time... Clean up the rails and go get some angle for floor
stringers
and steel tube for side rails. Rebuild the rear drop ramp,
place a
couple of swivel-down or built-in drop jacks for loading. Put
on
real side rails and D rings, make a 4" square tubing rear bumper
with
oval grommet mount lamps.

Decision time #1 - What to use for a deck, and where to get a
decent
deal.

Whether to use plywood again (properly weather treated this
time),
or expanded metal, or diamond-tread steel floor plate, or Oak
plank...

I'm leaning toward 6' x 16' 1/8" diamond-plate with cross
stringers
every 16" to 24", but then I have to flip the whole thing up on
it's
side to paint the bottom...

(Shop crane again. Or a chain-fall from a big tree.)

Problem #2 - Anyone got any surplus/reasonable 1-1/2" square
tubing
and angle? Mill lengths are OK, the trailer is 20'4" long -
they just
put a curve into two 21-footers and welded on the coupler.

I really should prune the stupid thing, but no matter how many
times
you cut it the trailer still ends up too short...

Problem #3 - (PAGING TOM GARDNER) Brush wire gage and style
suggestions needed for loose chalking paint & light derusting of
4"
C-channel + final fresh weld and steel prep for paint. Will
need cup
and end styles for various areas.

Numbers like 4862A83 or 4775A146 are acceptable for the
quantities
needed, UPS can have them here between the sneeze and the
Gesundheit.
;-) 4-1/2" DeWalt angle grinder (5/8 thread) would be my weapon
of
first choice - unless you think I should go buy a 7" for the
top...

-- Bruce --

Around here, we deck equipment trailers with rough sawn oak or elm from
the local sawmill. 2nd choice is southern yellow pine. Clamp it down
using angle irons and 3/8" carriage bolts.

For a general purpose trailer, I'd use 2x8" stock. Wider stock warps and
splits, narrower doesn't have the strength for point loads. Local lumber
yards have untreated in pine/fir, treated will be southern yellow pine
(tougher, weathers better but corrosive)

Diamond plate is so slippery, really easy to have your loads wandering
around. I'd use it only if every load is on rubber tires. No pallets, no
equipment.

Top posted because I LIKE it that way.

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

At one time it was a Trail-Rite sailboat trailer with a keel beam
and four bunker pads. I axed off the rear bunker bases with a
Sawzall, put a 2X4 on the keel support 2X8 for center support, and
dropped on 3/4" CDX Plywood. Made ramps from 12" cable rack, some
1/2" U-bolts for tiedown anchors.

I'm going to have to redo it again, might as well do it right this
time... Clean up the rails and go get some angle for floor stringers
and steel tube for side rails. Rebuild the rear drop ramp, place a
couple of swivel-down or built-in drop jacks for loading. Put on
real side rails and D rings, make a 4" square tubing rear bumper with
oval grommet mount lamps.

Decision time #1 - What to use for a deck, and where to get a decent
deal.

Whether to use plywood again (properly weather treated this time),
or expanded metal, or diamond-tread steel floor plate, or Oak plank...

I'm leaning toward 6' x 16' 1/8" diamond-plate with cross stringers
every 16" to 24", but then I have to flip the whole thing up on it's
side to paint the bottom...

(Shop crane again. Or a chain-fall from a big tree.)

Problem #2 - Anyone got any surplus/reasonable 1-1/2" square tubing
and angle? Mill lengths are OK, the trailer is 20'4" long - they just
put a curve into two 21-footers and welded on the coupler.

I really should prune the stupid thing, but no matter how many times
you cut it the trailer still ends up too short...

Problem #3 - (PAGING TOM GARDNER) Brush wire gage and style
suggestions needed for loose chalking paint & light derusting of 4"
C-channel + final fresh weld and steel prep for paint. Will need cup
and end styles for various areas.

Numbers like 4862A83 or 4775A146 are acceptable for the quantities
needed, UPS can have them here between the sneeze and the Gesundheit.
;-) 4-1/2" DeWalt angle grinder (5/8 thread) would be my weapon of
first choice - unless you think I should go buy a 7" for the top...

-- Bruce --

RoyJ wrote:
Around here, ... elm ...

Elm? Elm?? You have enough elm trees big enough for the saw mill?
Around here they get to 6-8" and die (Dutch Elm disease). I did have
one get to 14", but it was a field tree and not very tall. I'm real
sure that there aren't any stands of elm around, the disease spreads too
easily in stands. Just the odd lone, small, tree.

And isn't elm kind of soft for decking?

Bob

Lot's of elm have died from Dutch Elm, still a lot left. Plenty of 36"
trunk trees left, easy to pick them up when someone takes another one
down. Elm lays down each year's new growth in a mild spiral that varies
from one year to the next. The criss cross pattern means it doesn't
split, but makes it horrible to use for woodworking. But dozer cleats
don't chew it up either. Once it dries and weathers a bit, it is hard
stuff.

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
RoyJ wrote:
Around here, ... elm ...

Elm? Elm?? You have enough elm trees big enough for the saw mill?
Around here they get to 6-8" and die (Dutch Elm disease). I did have
one get to 14", but it was a field tree and not very tall. I'm real
sure that there aren't any stands of elm around, the disease spreads too
easily in stands. Just the odd lone, small, tree.

And isn't elm kind of soft for decking?

Bob

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:49:21 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

RoyJ wrote:
Around here, ... elm ...

Elm? Elm?? You have enough elm trees big enough for the saw mill?
Around here they get to 6-8" and die (Dutch Elm disease). I did have
one get to 14", but it was a field tree and not very tall. I'm real
sure that there aren't any stands of elm around, the disease spreads too
easily in stands. Just the odd lone, small, tree.

And isn't elm kind of soft for decking?

Bob
Not the elm I used to have to split. Rock elm is ALMOST as hard as
ironwood.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Bruce, what is the capacity of that trailer? The answer kind of
depends on that.

i

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again,

On a light duty trailer green treated 3/4 plywood will run for decades.
Greg

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 13:02:23 -0600, "Greg O"
wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
.. .

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again,

On a light duty trailer green treated 3/4 plywood will run for decades.
Greg

flatbed. opps!

Never mind

Gunner

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)


How about the plastic lumber they use for decks? It would last forever!

Tom Gardner wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

How about the plastic lumber they use for decks? It would last forever!

It lasts forever, but it isn't considered structural.

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:41:08 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:
"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...

Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

How about the plastic lumber they use for decks? It would last forever!

It lasts forever, but it isn't considered structural.

I looked at Trex Origins composite decking and quickly decided
against it. They've discontinued the 2X6 size, it's 5/4 (1-1/4") x
5-1/2". Double the price of redwood, not as strong - double the
stringers. If you want full thickness you have to go to the
molded-grain 'appearance' grades, which are even more.

-- Bruce --

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:41:08 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:
"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...

Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)
How about the plastic lumber they use for decks? It would last forever!
It lasts forever, but it isn't considered structural.

I looked at Trex Origins composite decking and quickly decided
against it. They've discontinued the 2X6 size, it's 5/4 (1-1/4") x
5-1/2". Double the price of redwood, not as strong - double the
stringers. If you want full thickness you have to go to the
molded-grain 'appearance' grades, which are even more.

-- Bruce --


Trex is unbelievably WEAK. One neighbor decided to cover his deck with
it and it feels like your walking on a mattress. He left a piece hanging
off the end over the pool so that he could trim it to fit the curve and
the 3 feet extra he was going to cut off was bending almost 2 feet under
it's own weight!!!

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Life is not like a box of chocolates
it's more like a jar of jalapenos-
what you do today could burn your ass tomorrow!

I think the pricing on Trex and Veranda etc is way out of line.
If the tree huggers want us to use these weaker (won't hold itself up)
and they want us to buy this junk and not wood. It should be equal
or under that of Redwood. And I don't mean jack up the price of
Redwood like they already have over the last 20 years.

The 4x4's are hollow. I have a 1x6x8' - arm and a leg to buy.
It is like plastic particle board. Support on one end and the other
and it might break in the middle.
The payout between the two is very questionable. With the poor part
selection, poor strength and price - it is very hard to justify.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:41:08 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:
"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...

Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)
How about the plastic lumber they use for decks? It would last forever!
It lasts forever, but it isn't considered structural.

I looked at Trex Origins composite decking and quickly decided
against it. They've discontinued the 2X6 size, it's 5/4 (1-1/4") x
5-1/2". Double the price of redwood, not as strong - double the
stringers. If you want full thickness you have to go to the
molded-grain 'appearance' grades, which are even more.

-- Bruce --

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

If you have a local lumber mill and they are reasonable rough-sawn oak plank
is the way to go. Pressure treated 2x is the second best alternative.

"ATP*" wrote in message
...

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

If you have a local lumber mill and they are reasonable rough-sawn oak
plank is the way to go. Pressure treated 2x is the second best
alternative.

The trouble with red oak, though, is that it soaks up water from the ends
and has no inherent rot protection. You can put the end of a stick of it in
water, blow on the other end, and watch bubbles come up. Waterproofing it
isn't very effective. We have a lot of it around here and you can always
spot it on a boat, if it's been exposed, because it looks great for a while.
And then it rots. g

White is very rot resistant (as is chestnut oak, if you can find it), but
white is not easy to find and it's usually premium-priced. You find it in
lumber yards that serve the boatbuilding trade. Personally, I'd go for
pressure-treated fir -- unless I was a Cajun with good connections, in which
case I'd go for pecky cyprus. The fir is strong but it does raise some big,
nasty splinters after it's been exposed to weather for a long time.

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"ATP*" wrote in message
...

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

If you have a local lumber mill and they are reasonable rough-sawn oak
plank is the way to go. Pressure treated 2x is the second best
alternative.

The trouble with red oak, though, is that it soaks up water from the ends
and has no inherent rot protection. You can put the end of a stick of it
in water, blow on the other end, and watch bubbles come up. Waterproofing
it isn't very effective. We have a lot of it around here and you can
always spot it on a boat, if it's been exposed, because it looks great for
a while. And then it rots. g

White is very rot resistant (as is chestnut oak, if you can find it), but
white is not easy to find and it's usually premium-priced. You find it in
lumber yards that serve the boatbuilding trade.

I think we have white oak on our trailer at work. It's been on there at
least ten years and is in good shape. It's also thick like scaffold planks.
I remember we replaced the oak on an equipment trailer with PT SYP and it
did not hold up well on the tail, but that trailer was used for a small
dozer and some other fairly heavy equipment. 2x PT has worked fine for me
moving milling machines, etc. on a light duty trailer.

"ATP*" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"ATP*" wrote in message
...

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to
where the Oddysey FL350 was pretty much tires sitting on the
framerails. Shop crane and a 6' nylon lifting sling solved that
little dilemma... ;-)

If you have a local lumber mill and they are reasonable rough-sawn oak
plank is the way to go. Pressure treated 2x is the second best
alternative.

The trouble with red oak, though, is that it soaks up water from the ends
and has no inherent rot protection. You can put the end of a stick of it
in water, blow on the other end, and watch bubbles come up. Waterproofing
it isn't very effective. We have a lot of it around here and you can
always spot it on a boat, if it's been exposed, because it looks great
for a while. And then it rots. g

White is very rot resistant (as is chestnut oak, if you can find it), but
white is not easy to find and it's usually premium-priced. You find it in
lumber yards that serve the boatbuilding trade.

I think we have white oak on our trailer at work. It's been on there at
least ten years and is in good shape. It's also thick like scaffold
planks. I remember we replaced the oak on an equipment trailer with PT SYP
and it did not hold up well on the tail, but that trailer was used for a
small dozer and some other fairly heavy equipment. 2x PT has worked fine
for me moving milling machines, etc. on a light duty trailer.

Oak is tough wood, besides being strong. It will take a lot of abuse. Too
bad white oak is so damned expensive, at least around here. Red is
relatively cheap but it's only good for interior work.

BTW, all of the interior trim in my house is a close relative: chestnut.
It's now 84 years old. People go ga-ga when they hear it's chestnut. But
when it was milled, chestnut was just a cheap substitute for oak. It
actually looks like open-grained oak.

--
Ed Huntress

On Tue, 1 Jan 2008 01:10:24 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"ATP*" wrote in message
...
snip

I think we have white oak on our trailer at work. It's been on there at
least ten years and is in good shape. It's also thick like scaffold
planks. I remember we replaced the oak on an equipment trailer with PT SYP
and it did not hold up well on the tail, but that trailer was used for a
small dozer and some other fairly heavy equipment. 2x PT has worked fine
for me moving milling machines, etc. on a light duty trailer.

Oak is tough wood, besides being strong. It will take a lot of abuse. Too
bad white oak is so damned expensive, at least around here. Red is
relatively cheap but it's only good for interior work.

BTW, all of the interior trim in my house is a close relative: chestnut.
It's now 84 years old. People go ga-ga when they hear it's chestnut. But
when it was milled, chestnut was just a cheap substitute for oak. It
actually looks like open-grained oak.

Live oak is available at local sawmills in Texas, don't know about CA.
The heartwood is so damn tough you'll have to drill it, can't drive a
nail. It holds up forever in cowpens. That is unless you get the
wrong bull in the pen.

Pete Keillor

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Problem #3 - (PAGING TOM GARDNER) Brush wire gage and style
suggestions needed for loose chalking paint & light derusting of 4"
C-channel + final fresh weld and steel prep for paint. Will need cup
and end styles for various areas.

Consider a needle scaler for getting the rough stuff off, followed by one of
Tom's brushes :-)

http://www2.northerntool.com/cat-1/1627.htm

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
Anyone know where there's a stash of old Marston Mat or other 'sheet
goods' in So-Cal?

Need to rework my old flatbed - the plywood rotted out again, to

Have you considered PT plywood?

I de-decked my trailer with the stuff a year ago and it still looks like I did
the job yesterday. The stuff is heavy, and not cheap, but I can't think of
anything better for the job. I also tar-sealed around the edges so that water
can't sit between the plywood and the steel frame. That should make both the
frame and the plywood last longer.

Vaughn

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
snip
Decision time #1 - What to use for a deck, and where to get a decent
deal.

Whether to use plywood again (properly weather treated this time),
or expanded metal, or diamond-tread steel floor plate, or Oak plank...

I'm leaning toward 6' x 16' 1/8" diamond-plate with cross stringers
every 16" to 24", but then I have to flip the whole thing up on it's
side to paint the bottom...
snip

Have you considered ipe? Dense, rot-resistant, hard & strong. It's
become a popular decking material.

I haven't any experience with it personally, but plan on using it for
my next oudoor project.

R,
Tom Q.

--
Remove bogusinfo to reply.

On Jan 1, 2:59�pm, wrote:
Bruce L. Bergman wrote:

snip �Decision time #1 - What to use for a deck, and where to get a decent
deal.

�Whether to use plywood again (properly weather treated this time),
or expanded metal, or diamond-tread steel floor plate, or Oak plank...

�I'm leaning toward 6' x 16' 1/8" diamond-plate with cross stringers
every 16" to 24", but then I have to flip the whole thing up on it's
side to paint the bottom...

snip

� Have you considered ipe? Dense, rot-resistant, hard & strong. It's
become a popular decking material.



First off don't consider any form of metal. The coefficient of
friction between your greasy machine bottoms and the metal deck will
guarantee accidents. Secondly most truck beds are made of apitong.
It's nasty stuff to work with but tougher then nails. I have a twenty
year old trailer that has had the apitong beat to death and I had a
chance to pick up some 5/4 oak for a buck aboard foot so that is what
is going back on. I gave Gunner some 1" AC plywood for his trailer and
he has nearly worn through in just a couple of years. Plywood doesn't
work for a weather exposed deck. If you look at the decks on Dunkel
Bros. Machinery Mover's trucks you find them mostly wood. probably
apitong. If you really want to go cheap, find an impoter of Taiwan
boats and get the cradles from him. They are usually apitong and all
you have to do is resaw the 6" x 6" beams into decking material.
Leigh at MarMachine