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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Pinging Harold & Susan
Hi Harold,
I followed your thread regarding diamond vs. silicon wheels. One point of confusion. Steel should not be ground on diamond. How come the Drill Doctor and my el-cheepo knife sharpener use diamond impregnated wheels? Is it simply a matter of short life time and I buy a replacement wheel? Or there alternative cutters for consumer quality products? Thanks, Your Jazz listening buddy from Oregon Ivan Vegvary |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Pinging Harold & Susan
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message news:MmRcj.2734$si6.1329@trndny08... Hi Harold, I followed your thread regarding diamond vs. silicon wheels. One point of confusion. Steel should not be ground on diamond. How come the Drill Doctor and my el-cheepo knife sharpener use diamond impregnated wheels? Is it simply a matter of short life time and I buy a replacement wheel? Or there alternative cutters for consumer quality products? Thanks, Your Jazz listening buddy from Oregon Ivan Vegvary I think you'll notice that the surface speed of these devices is well below a critical threshold. Where the problems begin is at red heat. If diamond is run on steel at low surface speed, such that it doesn't get hot----no problem. Once up to the heat of ignition, however, carbon begins transferring to iron, which has an affinity for carbon. This process rapidly dulls diamond. If you touch the base metal of brazed carbide tools to the diamond wheel (it happens occasionally), there is an almost instant change in grinding characteristics. It can be attributed to some loading of the wheel, but the diamond is also dulled in the process. The wheel often requires dressing to restore its qualities. Regards the expected life of the wheels you have now---it all depends on the nature of the wheel. High quality diamond wheels are a layer of matrix (there are various bonds---metallic, resinoid, and more), filled to various degrees, with diamond. The layer thickness and degree of concentration dictate useful life. Needless to say, a 100% concentration that is 1/8" thick will outlast (and out-perform) a wheel that has 25% concentration and is 1/16" thick. It stands to reason that the higher the concentration, the less the matrix is abraded, and the faster the wheel will cut. The wheel of choice for grinding (brazed carbide) toolbits is a resinoid bond, but it should not be applied freehand. A rest is a definite advantage, and steady coolant is required. Drip can cause more damage than none at all, due to thermal fracturing. Damned shame about the loss of Oscar Peterson. What a treasure he was. Harold |
#3
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Pinging Harold & Susan
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:
Where the problems begin is at red heat. Â* Â* Â* If diamond is run on steel at low surface speed, such that it doesn't get hot----no problem. Thanks for that explanation. Despite I didn't ask. ;-) And a happy new year! Nick -- The lowcost-DRO: http://www.yadro.de |
#4
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Pinging Harold & Susan
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message . net... "Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message news:MmRcj.2734$si6.1329@trndny08... Hi Harold, I followed your thread regarding diamond vs. silicon wheels. One point of confusion. Steel should not be ground on diamond. How come the Drill Doctor and my el-cheepo knife sharpener use diamond impregnated wheels? Is it simply a matter of short life time and I buy a replacement wheel? Or there alternative cutters for consumer quality products? Thanks, Your Jazz listening buddy from Oregon Ivan Vegvary I think you'll notice that the surface speed of these devices is well below a critical threshold. Where the problems begin is at red heat. If diamond is run on steel at low surface speed, such that it doesn't get hot----no problem. Once up to the heat of ignition, however, carbon begins transferring to iron, which has an affinity for carbon. This process rapidly dulls diamond. If you touch the base metal of brazed carbide tools to the diamond wheel (it happens occasionally), there is an almost instant change in grinding characteristics. It can be attributed to some loading of the wheel, but the diamond is also dulled in the process. The wheel often requires dressing to restore its qualities. How do you dress diamond wheels? I wasn't aware they could be dressed, but I've never had much to do with them, except for some old castoffs I salvaged. -- Ed Huntress |
#5
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Pinging Harold & Susan
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:
I think you'll notice that the surface speed of these devices is well below a critical threshold. Where the problems begin is at red heat. If diamond is run on steel at low surface speed, such that it doesn't get hot----no problem. I've also ment to ask about steel and diamond. Do you have an idea on what surface speed is acceptable? Wes |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Pinging Harold & Susan
"Wes" wrote in message ... "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote: I think you'll notice that the surface speed of these devices is well below a critical threshold. Where the problems begin is at red heat. If diamond is run on steel at low surface speed, such that it doesn't get hot----no problem. I've also ment to ask about steel and diamond. Do you have an idea on what surface speed is acceptable? Wes Sorry, Wes, I can only guess. Carbon combusts at something like 1,100° F, so I'm inclined to think that it starts to occur at that temperature. Norton did research on this subject back in the 50's, although I've never read any of the reports. Could be you could learn more on their web site. I've never bothered to look, so I have no clue. Harold |
#7
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Pinging Harold & Susan
On 2007-12-27, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Hi Harold, I followed your thread regarding diamond vs. silicon wheels. One point of confusion. Steel should not be ground on diamond. How come the Drill Doctor and my el-cheepo knife sharpener use diamond impregnated wheels? Is it simply a matter of short life time and I buy a replacement wheel? Or there alternative cutters for consumer quality products? Hmm ... aside from the matter of speed which Harold covered (and I think that the Drill Doctor is still pretty fast -- I could measure it with a StroboTac, but it is also pretty small in diameter -- less than an inch I think) -- but the Drill Doctor is *also* sold for carbide masonry bits -- thus making the diamond necessary for that. Otherwise, I would have prefered something like CBN. (Hmm ... how does that do in sharpening carbide? Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#8
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Pinging Harold & Susan
Ed Huntress wrote:
How do you dress diamond wheels? I wasn't aware they could be dressed, but I've never had much to do with them, except for some old castoffs I salvaged. With a single-point diamond dresser. Same as you use for carbide wheels. These are surprisingly cheap, for 1/4 carat or so. Jon |
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