I have a nice 20" Dayton Drill Press. It practically has no runout but
bearing make some ugly noise.
What is involved in spindle bearing replacement procedure? Do I need
any special tool? Can I introduce spindle runout while replacing
bearings?

Thanks,
Alex

On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 19:16:36 -0800 (PST), AK wrote:
I have a nice 20" Dayton Drill Press. It practically has no runout but
bearing make some ugly noise.
What is involved in spindle bearing replacement procedure? Do I need
any special tool? Can I introduce spindle runout while replacing
bearings?

Should be pretty straightforward. What's the number etched into the
outer race of the rumbly bearing?

Should be pretty straightforward. What's the number etched into the
outer race of the rumbly bearing?

I don't know yet. I haven't disassembled it yet.
BTW It's just my guess that it's a bearing.
Didn't want to start if too much is involved.

Should be pretty straightforward. What's the number etched into the
outer race of the rumbly bearing?

It's NTN 6204z on upper and NTN 6206z on lower. I can't say which one
is rattling. I'll replace both.
What kind of puller do I need to remove the bearings? Do bearing
dealers provide any tool rental or I'll have to buy a puller etc.?

Thanks,
Alex

It's NTN 6204z on upper and NTN 6206z on lower. I can't say which one
is rattling. I'll replace both.
What kind of puller do I need to remove the bearings? Do bearing
dealers provide any tool rental or I'll have to buy a puller etc.?

Before you dig too deep, look up a document someone here on
RCM wrote called, IIRC, "How to buy a drill press" and use the
checklist he has to see what's actually wrong. As I remember,
bearings are not the only parts of these that make noise, it can
also be worn splines.

Hope that helps,
--Glenn Lyford

On Wed, 28 Nov 2007 09:53:27 -0600, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

Grant Irwin did a nice piece on drill presses. Check http://www.tinyisland.com/htbdrillp.txt

Bob Swinney

wrote in message
...
It's NTN 6204z on upper and NTN 6206z on lower. I can't say which one
is rattling. I'll replace both.
What kind of puller do I need to remove the bearings? Do bearing
dealers provide any tool rental or I'll have to buy a puller etc.?

Before you dig too deep, look up a document someone here on
RCM wrote called, IIRC, "How to buy a drill press" and use the
checklist he has to see what's actually wrong. As I remember,
bearings are not the only parts of these that make noise, it can
also be worn splines.

Hope that helps,
--Glenn Lyford

armed with a pot of common old grease.
flip the lid orff the top of the pulley safety case.
pull the quill down.
squidge in a few gollops of grease into the hole on top of the quill.
when you cant get any more grease in, place your thumb over the hole
to seal it off.
let the quill rise to the top of its travel. this will squish grease
down around the quill.
lift your thumb off and then pull the quill down again.
squidge in as much more grease as you can.
place thumb over the top of the quill again and release the quill.
repeat until you cant get any more grease in.

the grease now all the way along the quill will kill most of the
rattle.

Stealth Pilot

On Nov 29, 5:09 am, Stealth Pilot
wrote:
On Wed, 28 Nov 2007 09:53:27 -0600, "Robert Swinney"



wrote:
Grant Irwin did a nice piece on drill presses. Checkhttp://www.tinyisland.com/htbdrillp.txt

Bob Swinney

wrote in message
...
It's NTN 6204z on upper and NTN 6206z on lower. I can't say which one
is rattling. I'll replace both.
What kind of puller do I need to remove the bearings? Do bearing
dealers provide any tool rental or I'll have to buy a puller etc.?

Before you dig too deep, look up a document someone here on
RCM wrote called, IIRC, "How to buy a drill press" and use the
checklist he has to see what's actually wrong. As I remember,
bearings are not the only parts of these that make noise, it can
also be worn splines.

Hope that helps,
--Glenn Lyford

armed with a pot of common old grease.
flip the lid orff the top of the pulley safety case.
pull the quill down.
squidge in a few gollops of grease into the hole on top of the quill.
when you cant get any more grease in, place your thumb over the hole
to seal it off.
let the quill rise to the top of its travel. this will squish grease
down around the quill.
lift your thumb off and then pull the quill down again.
squidge in as much more grease as you can.
place thumb over the top of the quill again and release the quill.
repeat until you cant get any more grease in.

the grease now all the way along the quill will kill most of the
rattle.

Stealth Pilot

But if rattle is inside the bearing no grease can't help it. May be
just dampen the noise?

On Wed, 28 Nov 2007 09:53:27 -0600, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

Grant Irwin did a nice piece on drill presses. Check http://www.tinyisland.com/htbdrillp.txt

Damned if *that* wasn't a timely response! Thanks.

I too just picked up a bench model drill press which sounds almost
exactly like Grant's description. It's an Associated Machine Tool
(Taiwan) 1/2 hp, 5 speed made in 1978. A friend of mine has a 15
speed AMT with th' idler pulley like Grant's, mine doesn't have one.

It seems to me that mine needs a spring loaded belt tensioner since
there's a *lot* of slop in th' belt at every speed except th' lowest,
460 rpm. Any of youse ever make a mod like this before?

There's also a lever that, for th' life of me, I can't figure out what
it's s'posed to do... don't laugh. Well, Ok, go ahead, but WTF does
th' lever on th' right upper side (facing it) back close to th' motor
in th' head casting do? It rotates about 120 degrees and seems to
engage something in th' 3 O clock position, but it doesn't *do*
anything. That lever goes all the way horizontally through th' head
casting.

My friend's has th' same lever, but it's stuck in th' 8 O clock
position.

Also, my buddies table crank is obviously stripped out. We assume
it's got a set of worm drive gears that raise/lower it on th' column
teeth. Best guess is someone ham fisted it while it was locked. Are
there parts available for these critters? My cursory search for
Associated Machine Tools was fruitless.

Thanks again for th' link and to Grant for writing that up!

Snarl

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 12:08:36 -0800, wrote:

snip
I too just picked up a bench model drill press which sounds almost
exactly like Grant's description. It's an Associated Machine Tool
(Taiwan) 1/2 hp, 5 speed made in 1978. A friend of mine has a 15
speed AMT with th' idler pulley like Grant's, mine doesn't have one.
snip

See if it looks like these:

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt.jpg

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-plate.jpg

If so I have the few sheets of paper some might call a
manual that came with'em.

I happened to have the images around, sorry that they sorta
suck...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 15:44:48 -0500, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 12:08:36 -0800, wrote:

snip
I too just picked up a bench model drill press which sounds almost
exactly like Grant's description. It's an Associated Machine Tool
(Taiwan) 1/2 hp, 5 speed made in 1978. A friend of mine has a 15
speed AMT with th' idler pulley like Grant's, mine doesn't have one.
snip

See if it looks like these:

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt.jpg

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-plate.jpg

Very similar, but there are a few minor differences. Ours both have a
separate Light and Motor switches and they have a head stock lock
lever on each side of th' column. Obviously th' same manufacturer
tho. Mine's a Model # AG 5-IND, serial number 11406. Dunno what my
bud's is.

If so I have the few sheets of paper some might call a
manual that came with'em.

I'd really appreciate a copy of those. This addy is munged, but ping
me at snarl 67 at trip dot net (remove th' spaces and change th'
obvious) and I'll send ya a snail mail addy. Be sure to include yer
return address so's I can send ya a few bucks for a libation of choice
for your effort g.

Thanks!

Snarl

On 2007-11-29, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Nov 2007 09:53:27 -0600, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

Grant Irwin did a nice piece on drill presses. Check http://www.tinyisland.com/htbdrillp.txt

Damned if *that* wasn't a timely response! Thanks.

[ ... ]

It seems to me that mine needs a spring loaded belt tensioner since
there's a *lot* of slop in th' belt at every speed except th' lowest,
460 rpm. Any of youse ever make a mod like this before?

Not needed. See later.

There's also a lever that, for th' life of me, I can't figure out what
it's s'posed to do... don't laugh. Well, Ok, go ahead, but WTF does
th' lever on th' right upper side (facing it) back close to th' motor
in th' head casting do? It rotates about 120 degrees and seems to
engage something in th' 3 O clock position, but it doesn't *do*
anything. That lever goes all the way horizontally through th' head
casting.

That lever is *supposed* to move the motor mount platform
forward and back -- after you loosen the clamp bolts (usually a single
pivoted wing on each) which hold the motor in position. then, you use
the lever to pull the motor as close to the column as possible, slip the
belt in position, and then use the lever to move the motor back until
the belt is tight enough, and holding it in that position, tighten the
clamp bolts.

It sounds as though someone managed to strip the teeth off the
pinion -- or the whole thing slid out of position and is no longer
engaging the rack gears on the motor plate mount bars.

Or -- some of them simply have an arm coming out the center of
the bolt which is pivot connected to another arm which has its other end
connected to the motor mount plate. The behavior of yours sounds like
that kind, with the pivot pins disconnected somewhere. If necessary,
unscrew and remove the belt guard on the top of your machine's head, and
use a flashlight to see what the lever actually is trying to do, and
reconnect the linkage and replace the missing pin, screw, or rivet.

My friend's has th' same lever, but it's stuck in th' 8 O clock
position.

Loosen the clamp bolts for the motor mount plate, and I'll bet
that his moves -- and moves the motor to provide more or less slack on
the belts.

Also, my buddies table crank is obviously stripped out. We assume
it's got a set of worm drive gears that raise/lower it on th' column
teeth. Best guess is someone ham fisted it while it was locked. Are
there parts available for these critters? My cursory search for
Associated Machine Tools was fruitless.

Keep your eyes open for a base, column and table without a head
on eBay. Sometimes these show up. Or strip it apart and make a new
worm and gear.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2007-11-30, wrote:

[ ... ]

Very similar, but there are a few minor differences. Ours both have a
separate Light and Motor switches and they have a head stock lock
lever on each side of th' column.

Are you sure that those are not for locking the motor position?
That's what mine (not an AMT) has -- and that allows the mystery lever
(from your other article) to move the motor back and forth to tighten
the belt. But you'll first have to fix the link from the mystery lever
to the motor mounting plate.

Good Luck,
DoN.


--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 11:04:41 -0800 (PST), AK
wrote:



the grease now all the way along the quill will kill most of the
rattle.

Stealth Pilot

But if rattle is inside the bearing no grease can't help it. May be
just dampen the noise?

yup if it is a bearing a new one is in order. all drills I've
encountered new rattled quite a bit. they quieten down considerably
with a quill full of grease.

havent you fixed it yet?

On Nov 30, 2:17 am, Stealth Pilot
wrote:
On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 11:04:41 -0800 (PST), AK
wrote:



the grease now all the way along the quill will kill most of the
rattle.

Stealth Pilot

But if rattle is inside the bearing no grease can't help it. May be
just dampen the noise?

yup if it is a bearing a new one is in order. all drills I've
encountered new rattled quite a bit. they quieten down considerably
with a quill full of grease.

havent you fixed it yet?

I took the spindle to BB dealer who took it apart and found a
problem. It was a thrust bearing inside the spindle. I replaced all
three bearings anyway.

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 16:05:29 -0800, wrote:

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 15:44:48 -0500, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 12:08:36 -0800, wrote:

snip
I too just picked up a bench model drill press which sounds almost
exactly like Grant's description. It's an Associated Machine Tool
(Taiwan) 1/2 hp, 5 speed made in 1978. A friend of mine has a 15
speed AMT with th' idler pulley like Grant's, mine doesn't have one.
snip

See if it looks like these:

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt.jpg

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-plate.jpg

Very similar, but there are a few minor differences. Ours both have a
separate Light and Motor switches and they have a head stock lock
lever on each side of th' column. Obviously th' same manufacturer
tho. Mine's a Model # AG 5-IND, serial number 11406. Dunno what my
bud's is.

If so I have the few sheets of paper some might call a
manual that came with'em.

I'd really appreciate a copy of those. This addy is munged, but ping
me at snarl 67 at trip dot net (remove th' spaces and change th'
obvious) and I'll send ya a snail mail addy. Be sure to include yer
return address so's I can send ya a few bucks for a libation of choice
for your effort g.

Thanks!

Snarl

It will take me a bit, but I'll get something for you. I'll
hang on to this message and get back to you. Can you print
stuff? Being you mentioned snail mail thought I would ask.

I thing Don's reply probably answers your lever question. My
two only have the thumb-bolts on either side for locking the
motor mount sliding posts. Try loosening both motor mounting
thumb-bolts and moving your lever again. I took a look
yesterday and didn't see any other levers on them in the
area you mentioned.

These both came without motors. My Dad bought'em that way
and cobbled his own motor on. I not sure where they came
from, but he bought stuff from Harbor Freight and US General
among other odd places. These are probably early 1980's
vintage.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On 30 Nov 2007 03:55:45 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2007-11-30, wrote:

[ ... ]

Very similar, but there are a few minor differences. Ours both have a
separate Light and Motor switches and they have a head stock lock
lever on each side of th' column.

Are you sure that those are not for locking the motor position?

No, I'm not sure. Upon further examination, it appears that to lock
th' head from swiveling you need to tighten two blind allen screws on
th' right side of th' head. I think you're right about them having to
do with belt tension.

That's what mine (not an AMT) has -- and that allows the mystery lever
(from your other article) to move the motor back and forth to tighten
the belt. But you'll first have to fix the link from the mystery lever
to the motor mounting plate.

Which means acquiring another 1 1/16" deep socket to remove th'
spindle pulley so I can remove th' belt guard assy. Crap, who'd I
lend that too...

Good Luck,
DoN.

Thanks DoN, this project is gonna have to go into a holding pattern
for a bit now. I am curious as hell what I'll see in there tho. If
it turns out that I'll need to buy or make parts, I may still modify a
spring loaded tensioner out of a spare one off a motorcycle I have as
a temp fix. You know, one of those fixes you'll do right some day
later g.

Snarl

On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 13:51:22 -0500, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 16:05:29 -0800, wrote:

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 15:44:48 -0500, Leon Fisk
wrote:

snip

If so I have the few sheets of paper some might call a
manual that came with'em.

I'd really appreciate a copy of those. This addy is munged, but ping
me at snarl 67 at trip dot net (remove th' spaces and change th'
obvious) and I'll send ya a snail mail addy. Be sure to include yer
return address so's I can send ya a few bucks for a libation of choice
for your effort g.

It will take me a bit, but I'll get something for you. I'll
hang on to this message and get back to you. Can you print
stuff? Being you mentioned snail mail thought I would ask.

Yes, I have a printer and I'm in no rush, Leon. Thanks!

I thing Don's reply probably answers your lever question. My
two only have the thumb-bolts on either side for locking the
motor mount sliding posts. Try loosening both motor mounting
thumb-bolts and moving your lever again.

I tried that and nothing happened. Gotta get inside and take a look.
This drill press was in th' Lake Union Drydock machine shop before my
bud got it. I suspect they busted th' linkage, or whatever mechanism
moves th' motor, and purchased a new replacement. Lotsa waste in that
shop... union shop I might add g.

Thanks again.

Snarl

On 2007-11-30, wrote:
On 30 Nov 2007 03:55:45 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2007-11-30, wrote:

[ ... ]

Very similar, but there are a few minor differences. Ours both have a
separate Light and Motor switches and they have a head stock lock
lever on each side of th' column.

Are you sure that those are not for locking the motor position?

No, I'm not sure. Upon further examination, it appears that to lock
th' head from swiveling you need to tighten two blind allen screws on
th' right side of th' head. I think you're right about them having to
do with belt tension.

That is what mine has -- wit the sub-surface Allen head
setscrews for locking to the column.

That's what mine (not an AMT) has -- and that allows the mystery lever
(from your other article) to move the motor back and forth to tighten
the belt. But you'll first have to fix the link from the mystery lever
to the motor mounting plate.

Which means acquiring another 1 1/16" deep socket to remove th'
spindle pulley so I can remove th' belt guard assy. Crap, who'd I
lend that too...

Not necessarily. At least based on mine, you can remove the
screws which hold it in place, and the belt(s), and just swing the belt
guard to one side or the other. (I had to do this to enlarge a hole in
the bottom of the belt guard which cleared the pivot for the
intermediate pulley (mine is a 16-speed), and this should at least let
you look down into the head casting to see how that outside lever links
(or at least *should* link) to the motor casting. After sending
last night, I went down to the shop and looked, and I don't see any
clues of the linkage between the motor and the casting, so I guess that
it ties to the inboard ends of the motor guide rods.

[ ... ]

Thanks DoN, this project is gonna have to go into a holding pattern
for a bit now. I am curious as hell what I'll see in there tho. If
it turns out that I'll need to buy or make parts, I may still modify a
spring loaded tensioner out of a spare one off a motorcycle I have as
a temp fix. You know, one of those fixes you'll do right some day
later g.

I understand that all too well. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 10:08:25 -0800 (PST), AK
wrote:

On Nov 30, 2:17 am, Stealth Pilot
wrote:
On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 11:04:41 -0800 (PST), AK
wrote:



the grease now all the way along the quill will kill most of the
rattle.

Stealth Pilot

But if rattle is inside the bearing no grease can't help it. May be
just dampen the noise?

yup if it is a bearing a new one is in order. all drills I've
encountered new rattled quite a bit. they quieten down considerably
with a quill full of grease.

havent you fixed it yet?

I took the spindle to BB dealer who took it apart and found a
problem. It was a thrust bearing inside the spindle. I replaced all
three bearings anyway.

you know you'll have to make something now :-)
put it to use and enjoy it.

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 16:05:29 -0800, wrote:

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 15:44:48 -0500, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 12:08:36 -0800, wrote:

snip
I too just picked up a bench model drill press which sounds almost
exactly like Grant's description. It's an Associated Machine Tool
(Taiwan) 1/2 hp, 5 speed made in 1978. A friend of mine has a 15
speed AMT with th' idler pulley like Grant's, mine doesn't have one.
snip

See if it looks like these:

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt.jpg

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-plate.jpg

Very similar, but there are a few minor differences. Ours both have a
separate Light and Motor switches and they have a head stock lock
lever on each side of th' column. Obviously th' same manufacturer
tho. Mine's a Model # AG 5-IND, serial number 11406. Dunno what my
bud's is.

If so I have the few sheets of paper some might call a
manual that came with'em.

I'd really appreciate a copy of those. This addy is munged, but ping
me at snarl 67 at trip dot net (remove th' spaces and change th'
obvious) and I'll send ya a snail mail addy. Be sure to include yer
return address so's I can send ya a few bucks for a libation of choice
for your effort g.

Thanks!

Snarl

I decided to take a good look through the dropbox before I
uploaded the scans for this. Should have done that first,
Norm already beat me to it. I took a look at the pdf and it
is as good or better than mine too. Here are the links:

http://www.metalworking.com/DropBox/...rill_Press.pdf

http://www.metalworking.com/DropBox/...rill_Press.txt

I doubt if it will be much help though, just satisfy your
curiosity It is only three pages long and doesn't give
very many generic part values.

You may want to take good hard look at the Grizzly model
G7943 12 speed drill press. See:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-S...ll-Press/G7943

Especially the Manual and parts pdf offered on the same page
for viewing. I think this may have some parts that are
pretty close to being the same as yours.

One other possibility is their G7942 5 speed model. This one
is similar to the AMT 5 speed. See:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-Sp...ll-Press/G7942

If you really want the images I scanned for some reason let
me know, Norm's look pretty good to me though.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email