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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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I met the seller of the 30" "18 gauge" slip roll today. I bought the machine
because it was a good price and I'm positive I can sell it for that, but I don't quite understand it yet. It isn't a slip roll! Meaning, none of the rolls come loose so you can slip a rolled tube off. I'm sure with sheet metal thin enough, you can roll it to a closed loop and then open the loop enough to get it off the roll, but boy that seems klunky to me. Anyone seen one like this? Am I off base here? Grant |
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On Sep 12, 12:49 pm, Grant Erwin wrote:
I met the seller of the 30" "18 gauge" slip roll today. I bought the machine because it was a good price and I'm positive I can sell it for that, but I don't quite understand it yet. It isn't a slip roll! Meaning, none of the rolls come loose so you can slip a rolled tube off. I'm sure with sheet metal thin enough, you can roll it to a closed loop and then open the loop enough to get it off the roll, but boy that seems klunky to me. Anyone seen one like this? Am I off base here? Grant Most of the slip rolls/power rolls that I've seen aren't designed for anything that you couldn't slip off the rolls. Most are rolled and then seamed with a Pittsburgh lock, spot welded, etc. After all, it is designed for 18 gauge, which isn't that thick. I'd guess that you'd have a hard time keeping most thin sheet metal together such that it doesn't open up. For most of the stuff I've seen, they don't try to run the power roll continuously. It is run back and forth from one endof the sheet to the other. For what you're thinking, I think they use a different tool. A machinist friend of mine built some custom wheels for an electric vehicle, and he had to build a tool to do it. The wheels are 6 feet in diameter, 1/4" steel plate, 6" wide. It works out to about a 19' length of stock prior to rolling. Basically, he built a roller driven by a corded "D" style drill (the really big kind that plumbers use to cut 4" holes through joists and the like.) It had just one side plate, consisting of a driven roller (chucked in the drill) and a pair of rollers with bearings and a screw assembly to adjust the thickness. The steel was fed in one end (usually with a helper) and rolled back and forth until it came together. Even with 1/4" steel, the 6' diameter wheel could still be opened 2-3 inches when completed. The assembly was taken out of the machine and placed on the floor, with a circle drawn to show the size. The ends were then welded together, and the 1" diameter steel spokes fitted. |
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