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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I
cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. I have other bars that are more practicable, like 0.25x2x15, etc, these are quite useful for all sorts of things, such as in my welder conversion, etc. But I cannot see any need for making parts from big thick copper bars. Aluminum would always be cheaper, have good electrical and thermal properties, and easier to machine. Is that, in fact, true? i |
#2
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
I would hang on to it. I have the occasional need to make bus-bar "bugs",
and other high-current connectors and contacts. Last year, I had to make all new rheostat studs for my very (very) old EZ-GO golf cart. They'd discontinued the part. Nothin' for it but copper rod, lathe time, and some frustration getting my rake angles right. (single-point threading of copper is a pain in the ass!) LLoyd "Ignoramus5693" wrote in message ... I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. I have other bars that are more practicable, like 0.25x2x15, etc, these are quite useful for all sorts of things, such as in my welder conversion, etc. But I cannot see any need for making parts from big thick copper bars. Aluminum would always be cheaper, have good electrical and thermal properties, and easier to machine. Is that, in fact, true? i |
#3
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Wed, 1 Aug 2007 10:17:31 -0400, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
I would hang on to it. I have the occasional need to make bus-bar "bugs", and other high-current connectors and contacts. Last year, I had to make all new rheostat studs for my very (very) old EZ-GO golf cart. They'd discontinued the part. Nothin' for it but copper rod, lathe time, and some frustration getting my rake angles right. (single-point threading of copper is a pain in the ass!) That stuff that you made, you could not make out of 1/4" copper bar, is that true? I did find several occasions where a big 1/4" thick copper bar was useful, indeed. I think that I will agree with you and hang on to this bar. i |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
"Ignoramus5693" wrote in message ... On Wed, 1 Aug 2007 10:17:31 -0400, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: I would hang on to it. I have the occasional need to make bus-bar "bugs", and other high-current connectors and contacts. Last year, I had to make all new rheostat studs for my very (very) old EZ-GO golf cart. They'd discontinued the part. Nothin' for it but copper rod, lathe time, and some frustration getting my rake angles right. (single-point threading of copper is a pain in the ass!) That stuff that you made, you could not make out of 1/4" copper bar, is that true? I did find several occasions where a big 1/4" thick copper bar was useful, indeed. I think that I will agree with you and hang on to this bar. i One suggestion: don't anneal it until after you machine it, whatever you do. You will pay for it in utter misery. I was involved in machining 2000 cylindrical electrical connectors, 1-1/4" diameter and 3" long, once upon a time. The harder the copper is, the better. -- Ed Huntress |
#5
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... One suggestion: don't anneal it until after you machine it, whatever you do. You will pay for it in utter misery. I was involved in machining 2000 cylindrical electrical connectors, 1-1/4" diameter and 3" long, once upon a time. The harder the copper is, the better. I'll remember that. Maybe even harden a piece before I work it. In this case, it was "run whut you brung". I got a stick of whatever the metal shop had, and didn't think to harden it before working it. "Razor-sharp chewing gum" comes to mind. LLoyd |
#6
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
(I think I screwed up the original reply and sent it just to Lloyd. Hey, I'm
rusty...) "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message .. . "Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... One suggestion: don't anneal it until after you machine it, whatever you do. You will pay for it in utter misery. I was involved in machining 2000 cylindrical electrical connectors, 1-1/4" diameter and 3" long, once upon a time. The harder the copper is, the better. I'll remember that. Maybe even harden a piece before I work it. In this case, it was "run whut you brung". I got a stick of whatever the metal shop had, and didn't think to harden it before working it. "Razor-sharp chewing gum" comes to mind. LLoyd Sharp chewing gum it is. g However, I don't know how you'd harden the copper, unless it was some alloy that can be heat treated or whatever. Pure copper, and most alloys, can only be work-hardened. Their hardest state usually is the condition they come in, right from the mill. The trick is to leave them in that state. -- Ed Huntress |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
"Ed Huntress" wrote in
: One suggestion: don't anneal it until after you machine it, whatever you do. You will pay for it in utter misery. I was involved in machining 2000 cylindrical electrical connectors, 1-1/4" diameter and 3" long, once upon a time. The harder the copper is, the better. It machines really nice with PCD tooling. I used to size printing cylinders right out of the copper plating bath, prior to engraving and chrome plating. The biggest issue was birds nests. -- Anthony You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make better idiots. Remove sp to reply via email |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
"Anthony" wrote in message ... "Ed Huntress" wrote in : One suggestion: don't anneal it until after you machine it, whatever you do. You will pay for it in utter misery. I was involved in machining 2000 cylindrical electrical connectors, 1-1/4" diameter and 3" long, once upon a time. The harder the copper is, the better. It machines really nice with PCD tooling. I used to size printing cylinders right out of the copper plating bath, prior to engraving and chrome plating. The biggest issue was birds nests. Yes, that's a problem, especially in production. I reported on an operation in western PA some years back that was turning disc-like copper pieces with autoloading lathes (Wasinos). Their biggest challenge was breaking up the birds' nests, which they finally accomlished after a lot of experimenting with feed rates and cutting angles. -- Ed Huntress |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
"Ignoramus5693" wrote in message ... That stuff that you made, you could not make out of 1/4" copper bar, is that true? I did find several occasions where a big 1/4" thick copper bar was useful, indeed. I think that I will agree with you and hang on to this bar. The rheostat studs were made from 3/4 round. But I've made bus-bar connector blocks as large as 2x2x2. LLoyd |
#10
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Wed, 1 Aug 2007 10:38:41 -0400, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Ignoramus5693" wrote in message ... That stuff that you made, you could not make out of 1/4" copper bar, is that true? I did find several occasions where a big 1/4" thick copper bar was useful, indeed. I think that I will agree with you and hang on to this bar. The rheostat studs were made from 3/4 round. But I've made bus-bar connector blocks as large as 2x2x2. OK. Thanks. I will definitely hang on to it. i |
#11
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
What's wrong with you? I am unable to conceive of why anyone
in their right mind would even consider letting a piece of ANY metal larger than a cubic inch, out of their clutches. Excuse me, have to go, just heard a bunch of noise from the garage, where I think a shelf collapsed.... /mark Ignoramus5693 wrote: I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. I have other bars that are more practicable, like 0.25x2x15, etc, these are quite useful for all sorts of things, such as in my welder conversion, etc. But I cannot see any need for making parts from big thick copper bars. Aluminum would always be cheaper, have good electrical and thermal properties, and easier to machine. Is that, in fact, true? i |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Wed, 01 Aug 2007 14:53:21 GMT, Mark F wrote:
What's wrong with you? I am unable to conceive of why anyone in their right mind would even consider letting a piece of ANY metal larger than a cubic inch, out of their clutches. Excuse me, have to go, just heard a bunch of noise from the garage, where I think a shelf collapsed.... I am looking for steel and aluminum pieces, actually. I had doubts whether I need a copper bar of that size (I have other copper bars that I actually used). The real problems begin when there is so much stuff in the garage that it turns into a Black Hole. i |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
Ignoramus5693 wrote:
I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. The easiest way to find that out is to sell it. Nick |
#14
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
Copper is the nastiest stuff I have ever machined. Being a good heat
conductor, soft, sticky, etc, it's just aweful. I made a number of custom cable swages for 1/8" aircraft cable, and it was a nightmare. 8 feet of 1/4" dia copper round bar got turned into 2" long pieces, faced both ends, and drilled through with a #29 drill. Some got stuck in collet blocks, clampled a wierd angles, and fishmouthed in preparation for brazing, while others got threaded #10-24. In the process I snapped 4 #29 drill bits and had my lathe drill chuck (this is a large toolroom lathe with a lever collet closer) pulled bodily out of the tailstock by the stickyness of the copper. It also transmitted heat very effectively, to the point where the heat of the drilling operation (this is with extensive mist coolant, no flood available) heated the collet to the point where it expanded and did not grip the part firmly. The project turned out well, but it was one of my least favorite machining experieces. |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
Ignoramus5693 wrote:
I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. I have other bars that are more practicable, like 0.25x2x15, etc, these are quite useful for all sorts of things, such as in my welder conversion, etc. But I cannot see any need for making parts from big thick copper bars. Aluminum would always be cheaper, have good electrical and thermal properties, and easier to machine. One thing a big solid chunk of copper is good for is balling tungstens for use in welding aluminum. In fact, I would love to have a chunk of that bar two inches long if you ever decide to saw it up. An old machinist once told me that if you do have to machine copper the cutting fluid you want to us - really, this isn't a gag - is milk! I think he suggested a can of evaporated milk. Grant |
#16
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Wed, 01 Aug 2007 08:30:49 -0700, Grant Erwin wrote:
Ignoramus5693 wrote: I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. I have other bars that are more practicable, like 0.25x2x15, etc, these are quite useful for all sorts of things, such as in my welder conversion, etc. But I cannot see any need for making parts from big thick copper bars. Aluminum would always be cheaper, have good electrical and thermal properties, and easier to machine. One thing a big solid chunk of copper is good for is balling tungstens for use in welding aluminum. In fact, I would love to have a chunk of that bar two inches long if you ever decide to saw it up. Grant, I thought one could ball tungstens with just a piece of scrap iron. I will let you know if I ever cut it up. An old machinist once told me that if you do have to machine copper the cutting fluid you want to us - really, this isn't a gag - is milk! I think he suggested a can of evaporated milk. Sounds yucky, the work would smell rather bad in a few days. (don't ask me how I know) i |
#17
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
Grant, I thought one could ball tungstens with just a piece of scrap iron. I will let you know if I ever cut it up. That really doesn't work. You want a metal that is as conductive as possible, both electrically and thermally. Short of precious metals, copper is the best you can do. You can also use a chunk of copper as a backing bar for welds. I've used blocks of scrap aluminum for this too. Grant |
#18
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Wed, 01 Aug 2007 08:52:11 -0500, Ignoramus5693
wrote: I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. Very useful for welding thin aluminum sheetmetal corners without blowing holes. The copper bar stops blowthrus by acting as a chill. Lightly chamfer a corner on the copper bar to create a bit of space under the corner to be welded. You don't want the bar to chill the puddle right in/on the joint. Clamp aluminum pieces to bar with the chamfer under the corner to be welded. Weld away! I make boxes by welding up pieces of sheetmetal, because I don't have a brake to bend them. Even if I did, with welding I don't have to worry about bending allowances to get the dimensions right. It's even handy with thin steel sheetmetal, because weld-thru (excessive penetration) won't stick to the copper; it'll just reinforce the inside of the corner. |
#19
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Wed, 01 Aug 2007 16:23:23 -0500, Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 01 Aug 2007 08:52:11 -0500, Ignoramus5693 wrote: I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. Very useful for welding thin aluminum sheetmetal corners without blowing holes. The copper bar stops blowthrus by acting as a chill. Lightly chamfer a corner on the copper bar to create a bit of space under the corner to be welded. You don't want the bar to chill the puddle right in/on the joint. Clamp aluminum pieces to bar with the chamfer under the corner to be welded. Weld away! I make boxes by welding up pieces of sheetmetal, because I don't have a brake to bend them. Even if I did, with welding I don't have to worry about bending allowances to get the dimensions right. It's even handy with thin steel sheetmetal, because weld-thru (excessive penetration) won't stick to the copper; it'll just reinforce the inside of the corner. Don, it is a good point, something I did not think about (use of copper as backing for welding butts). At this point I already decided to keep this particular bar, but it is one more reason to. i |
#20
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
Don Foreman wrote: I make boxes by welding up pieces of sheetmetal, because I don't have a brake to bend them. Even if I did, with welding I don't have to worry about bending allowances to get the dimensions right. WOW, I'd sure like to look over your shoulder while you did this! I was trying to TIG weld some gussets into a box I made of .060" 3003 last night. I almost destroyed the box. I should have set up some copper bars to keep the aluminum from melting. My big problem was the gussets would melt into a puddle before I got any melting of the box material, even though they were the same thickness. I'm pretty sure they were the same alloy, but something else could have gotten in the scrap bin. After painting it will look OK until somebody opens the box, then it looks like hell! I've got steel, SS and even copper down just PAT, but aluminum still drives me crazy. I don't know why. (I have a Lincoln Square-Wave TIG 300, supposed to be a good machine.) Jon |
#21
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Wed, 01 Aug 2007 16:12:45 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
I've got steel, SS and even copper down just PAT, but aluminum still drives me crazy. I don't know why. (I have a Lincoln Square-Wave TIG 300, supposed to be a good machine.) Practice, practice, practice; 5-10x as much as it took to get good at SS. g I came up with this technique for folding aluminum without a brake after learning a similar technique that jewelers use. The grooves in the 1/8" sheet are cut about 1/16" deep with a 90 degree single flute countersink. You can see some cracking on the outside of the bends in the second photo - annealing or a different alloy should take care of that in cases where it matters. This probably doesn't help much if you need to install internal ribs, but it does make nice boxes. http://www.suscom-maine.net/~nsimmon.../Mailbox00.JPG http://www.suscom-maine.net/~nsimmon.../Mailbox01.JPG http://www.suscom-maine.net/~nsimmon.../Mailbox02.JPG The jewelry technique involves scoring a piece of sheet by hammering a piece of curved steel wire into the surface of the sheet. You can make interesting 3D shapes in soft metals very easily this way. -- Ned Simmons |
#22
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
Ned Simmons wrote:
I came up with this technique for folding aluminum without a brake after learning a similar technique that jewelers use. The grooves in the 1/8" sheet are cut about 1/16" deep with a 90 degree single flute countersink. You can see some cracking on the outside of the bends in the second photo - annealing or a different alloy should take care of that in cases where it matters. Neat. Where do you get that single flute counter sink at? Wes |
#23
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
Wes wrote:
Neat. Where do you get that single flute counter sink at? I would use a router bit. Nick |
#24
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Thu, 02 Aug 2007 08:36:06 -0400, Wes wrote:
Neat. Where do you get that single flute counter sink at? http://www.maford.com/taf/catalog.ta...3EFE5346B1D6F9 The grooves could also be cut with a regular endmill with the mill head rotated, but the c'sink is much more convenient. You want a small flat at the bottom of the groove to allow some overbend when folding the part to compensate for springback. ___ ________ \ / \_/ -- Ned Simmons |
#25
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
Copper makes a nice Buss bar for common returns or earth ground.
Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Ignoramus5693 wrote: I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. I have other bars that are more practicable, like 0.25x2x15, etc, these are quite useful for all sorts of things, such as in my welder conversion, etc. But I cannot see any need for making parts from big thick copper bars. Aluminum would always be cheaper, have good electrical and thermal properties, and easier to machine. Is that, in fact, true? i ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#26
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Wed, 01 Aug 2007 21:51:38 -0500, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Copper makes a nice Buss bar for common returns or earth ground. I used big copper bars (1/4" thick) in my rectifier when I converted my welder to Cubloc microcontroller and normal three phase rectifier: http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Weld...New-Rectifier/ Now, a 1" thick bar is a little bit too much for that! i Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Ignoramus5693 wrote: I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. I have other bars that are more practicable, like 0.25x2x15, etc, these are quite useful for all sorts of things, such as in my welder conversion, etc. But I cannot see any need for making parts from big thick copper bars. Aluminum would always be cheaper, have good electrical and thermal properties, and easier to machine. Is that, in fact, true? i http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups |
#27
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Have you ever needed to machine copper
On Aug 1, 9:52 am, Ignoramus5693
wrote: I have a copper bar that I am deciding whether to keep it (1x2x15"). I cannot think of any hobby style need that would involve a copper bar like that. I have other bars that are more practicable, like 0.25x2x15, etc, these are quite useful for all sorts of things, such as in my welder conversion, etc. But I cannot see any need for making parts from big thick copper bars. Aluminum would always be cheaper, have good electrical and thermal properties, and easier to machine. Is that, in fact, true? i I built a spot welder and used something similar for the electrodes. |
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