jim rozen wrote in message ...
In article , Harold & Susan Vordos says...

DoN has mentioned the necessary amount of clearance on the threading tool,
but there's one thing that you may be missing, and it's easy to do. The way
you describe your thread leads me to believe that you have your compound set
improperly. The markings on compounds are not all the same. What is 30
degrees on one is 60 degrees on another. To set your compound properly,
assuming you are threading a right hand internal thread, cutting from the
outside towards the headstock, you should start with your compound parallel
to the cross slide, with the handle towards you. At that point, you should
turn the handle TOWARDS the headstock until you've gone almost 30 degrees.
I like to use 29, which makes sure you keep cleaning up the back side of the
thread. It may not read 29 degrees, but 61 instead. Don't let that worry
you, it's the way the machine is marked. Setting the compound as I've
suggested is important to a good end result. Don't set the compound the
same way you do for an external right hand thread.

If you're not comfortable with your compound set as I've suggested, the next
best way is to set it exactly 180 degrees opposite, with the handle on the
far side of the bed, and pointed towards the tailstock. That way you always
feed such that you keep the leadscrew loaded by the cut. I tend to harp
on this subject endlessly, but it's a good lesson to learn and remember, and
it ALWAYS applies when threading, regardless of the type of thread.

I much prefer the second setup, becuause otherwise the compound
dial and handle tend to interfere with the work on smaller machines.

Has anyone suggested that he double check his thread form with a
simple thread gage to be sure it is correct? I suspect at 40 tpi
his problem is not thread relief on the tool.

Jim

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Actually I think I had the compound set wrong. To start with, my
threading tool is made from drill rod. I got the idea from the 7x10
minilathe post on yahoo some time ago. Anyway the suggestion was to
get the same size rod as my boring tool holder, in my case 3/8" and
then turn a disk on one end. Make it a 60 degree angle on each
shoulder. Then grind off the top and bottom of the disk to form two
cutting tools. This is what I have been using. Now as far as the
compound angle goes I don't have a handle like you say. Picture it
this way....I shrink myself and stand on the tailstock. I then peer
straight into the headstock. Let's call this 0 degrees. I point the
boring bar in this direction. Now I turn it 30 degrees
counterclockwise. I then feed toward the headstock. I just tried this
and the thread looks much better. Must have done something right. How
does this sound? Of course now I have to bore it to the correct i.d.,
thread it, and finally screw the filter into it. The proof is in the
pudding.

Vince