I got a tool & cutter grinder head from a junk shop (for free) that is
missing the arbor nuts and outer collars.The bearings are in good shape
as well as the motor itself.

But I can't find the arbor nuts.

I've measured the shaft and threads but I can't decide if they measu
16 mm x 1.25 mm
or
5/8" by 20

I suspect that either one wouold work after a fashion since neither
seems to be an exact match for the thread pitch.

However, my regular sources for odd size stuff (www.boltdepot.com and
www.fastenal.com) don't list either one of these sizes.

It seems a shame to toss the work head just because I can't locate a
couple of arbor nuts.

Any ideas?


Gary

PS The work head is completely unmarked - other than a switch saying it
is rated 15 A at 125 VAC.

Perhaps you have a fastenal store near you that you could visit?

i

I do have a Fastenal store nearby. But their website doesn't list the
size. Do these stores carry items not available online?


Gary

On 19 May 2006 08:42:10 -0700, wrote:
I do have a Fastenal store nearby. But their website doesn't list the
size. Do these stores carry items not available online?

Probably not, but they could have helpful employees who would tell you
exactly what thread it is. Cannot hurt to give it a shot.

i

wrote : Any ideas?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I think Loc-tite and Permatex both sell epoxy type products intended for
repairing stripped threads. How about trying this with a nut that is big
enough to slip on?

On Fri, 19 May 2006 15:59:42 GMT, Leo Lichtman wrote:

wrote : Any ideas?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I think Loc-tite and Permatex both sell epoxy type products intended for
repairing stripped threads. How about trying this with a nut that is big
enough to slip on?

I think Loc-Tite and Permatex are the same company now, aren't they?

I am having trouble believing you can't measure the threads, and once you do,
sourcing a proper nut. A grinder arbor nut is made quite differently from some
hardware store item.

Measure the OD of the threaded shaft with calipers, as accurately as you can,
and use a thread gage to get the number of teeth per inch. If you don't have a
thread gage, then hold up a good ruler and count the number of teeth in a
quarter inch and multiply by 4, or count the number in a half inch and multiply
by 2 if the threads are long enough.

Post what you come up with.

Many T&C grinders use wheel holders like this one:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...PMT4NO=7825604

All such grinders have very similar dimensions on the business end of the
grinding spindle. Therefore it is very likely indeed that a nut from one may fit
yours.

I also suggest you find a way to go look closely at a unit like the one you
bought. There are machine shops near most people in this country, and a lot of
them probably have a T&C grinder.

GWE

Post what you come up with.

Caliper measurement:
..627" or 15.9 mm

Thread gauge:
20 tpi over 1" but by the last thread, the gauge is about 1/4th of a
thread long
or
1.25 mm over 1" but by the last thread, the gauge is about 1/4th of a
thread long

The threads are right hand on both ends of the workhead shaft.

According to :
I got a tool & cutter grinder head from a junk shop (for free) that is
missing the arbor nuts and outer collars.The bearings are in good shape
as well as the motor itself.

But I can't find the arbor nuts.

I've measured the shaft and threads but I can't decide if they measu
16 mm x 1.25 mm
or
5/8" by 20

I suspect that either one wouold work after a fashion since neither
seems to be an exact match for the thread pitch.

Hmm ... while you're at it -- check the handedness of the
threads. The nut on my Sanford small surface grinder is a left-hand
thread. And it has no flats. it is a disc, with a bit of relief so the
contact with the wheel is only near the OD.

And the outside surface has two shallow holes for using a pin
spanner to tighten the nut.

However, my regular sources for odd size stuff (www.boltdepot.com and
www.fastenal.com) don't list either one of these sizes.

It seems a shame to toss the work head just because I can't locate a
couple of arbor nuts.

Any ideas?

Once you are sure as to what the thread is, consider making your
own nut on your lathe. (I presume that you do have a lathe, if you are
posting here about a T&C grinder. :-) 5/8" should be possible to thread
internally with a proper internal threading tool. Much smaller and it
gets tricky. :-)

Good Luck
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

wrote : Any ideas?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I think Loc-tite and Permatex both sell epoxy type products intended for
repairing stripped threads. How about trying this with a nut that is big
enough to slip on?

Hi Leo,
Dont talk like a prick, this is a engineering group not a codge and bodge
lot. I would hate to think you had been repairing a machine I had to work
on. Have you ever seen the damage a grinding wheel can cause if it should
come off or explode? Arsehole.
Regards. Rotty

wrote:

I got a tool & cutter grinder head from a junk shop (for free) that is
missing the arbor nuts and outer collars.The bearings are in good shape
as well as the motor itself.

But I can't find the arbor nuts.

I've measured the shaft and threads but I can't decide if they measu
16 mm x 1.25 mm
or
5/8" by 20

I suspect that either one wouold work after a fashion since neither
seems to be an exact match for the thread pitch.

However, my regular sources for odd size stuff (www.boltdepot.com and
www.fastenal.com) don't list either one of these sizes.

It seems a shame to toss the work head just because I can't locate a
couple of arbor nuts.

Any ideas?

Gary

PS The work head is completely unmarked - other than a switch saying it
is rated 15 A at 125 VAC.

Well, one presumes you have a lathe, perhaps you could make them?
Otherwise, 5/8" x 20 TPI is that common, that taps are available off the
shelf, you could go that way. Travers Tool etc.
Alternatively, seek out older GM front axle spindles from last century,
they had 5/8" x 20 TPI nuts.

Jim

*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

"Rotty" wrote: Hi Leo,
Dont talk like a prick, this is a engineering group not a codge and
bodge lot. I would hate to think you had been repairing a machine I had to
work on. Have you ever seen the damage a grinding wheel can cause if it
should come off or explode? Arsehole.
Regards. Rotty
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Oh, and my warmest regards to you too, Rotty. Now lets look at a few facts.
The thread repair materials I was suggesting are not recommended for
critical applications like connecting rods and the like, but they hold quite
well for most applications. The nuts on a grinder shaft need to be
tightened enough so they don't loosen, but they should not--repeat: not--be
made extremely tight, because that could crush the wheel. There is no way
that such a nut could cause the wheel to explode, and the other "danger" you
refer to, a wheel coming off at speed, ain't gone happen, either. Suppose
the nut were to loosen. The wheel would lose its driving torque and slow
down or stop. The operator would know it long before the nut actually
drifted clear off.

I think these are all reasonable assertions. I am exercising restraint in
not responding to your vulgar and uncalled-for insults, Let's see whether
you are capable of the same thing.

I considered making my own but I've never cut threads on my lathe. It
uses a series of removable gears to set up the pitch. I've never used
them so I don't even know if I can cut the correct thread. And I've
NEVER cut an internal thread.

Thus, I'm looking for something I can buy rather than build.

I like the idea of the Permatex/Loctite (even though it appears someone
else doesn't). I will look into that idea further.


Thanks.



Gary