Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Steven
 
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Default Speaking of arbor presses

A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor
press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling.
My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the
side.

What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more
useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or
make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc?

Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain?

I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and
such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools.

Thanks,

Steven Harris
Everson, WA
  #2   Report Post  
Harold & Susan Vordos
 
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Default Speaking of arbor presses


"Steven" wrote in message
m...
A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor
press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling.
My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the
side.

What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more
useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or
make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc?

Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain?

I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and
such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools.

Thanks,

Steven Harris
Everson, WA


Hey Steve,

It's my opinion that you shouldn't mess with the end of the ram. Because
you need the flat end for many applications, anything you do to alter it
could lead to problems, mushing of the hole, perhaps more mushing on the
edges.

You suggested using opposite ends of the ram. If you can change ends with
the ram easily, no tear down of the press, I think your idea is good. My
press would not respond to that idea because the ram can't be removed
without taking the press apart.

Assuming your press won't permit changing the ram without dismantling, If
you feel a need for specific tooling, I think I'd suggest an adapter that
fits over the end of the ram. You could clean up the existing mushing by
belt sander so the newly made "cup" could fit over the ram, made to a snug
fit slip and retained by a set screw. The opposite end of the cup could
have a hole of sorts that would than accept specific adapters, again, held
in place by a set screw. That frees up one hand, making it easier to do
some things.

Harold


  #3   Report Post  
David Courtney
 
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Default Speaking of arbor presses

We have "clamp-on" adaptors for holding broaches square and pressing
certain sized bearings in and out.
They are basically a "U" shaped saddle that fits over the end of the
ram, with set screws in one leg to tighten them onto the side of the ram...
nothing fancy.
David


"Steven" wrote in message
m...
A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor
press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling.
My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the
side.

What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more
useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or
make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc?

Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain?

I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and
such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools.

Thanks,

Steven Harris
Everson, WA



  #4   Report Post  
jran
 
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Default Speaking of arbor presses

we drilled a hole in the end and drilled a setscrew hole to hold any kind of
pin type attachement you want. we have made adapters to press in small roll
pins, large anvils to press in larger bearings, hardened heads for stuff
that you don't want to mar.

"Steven" wrote in message
m...
A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor
press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling.
My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the
side.

What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more
useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or
make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc?

Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain?

I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and
such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools.

Thanks,

Steven Harris
Everson, WA



  #5   Report Post  
Grant Erwin
 
Posts: n/a
Default Speaking of arbor presses

Lots of guys mill off the top tooth (or is it the bottom tooth) which allows
you to move the ram, adjust the handle to the right place, and press. It's a
"poor man's ratcheting" setup. On the other hand, I have a 2-ton ratcheting
arbor press in Kirkland, Washington that is brand new but right after I got
it 2 things happened. J&L moved out of the area, so now nobody carries these
locally anymore so now you have to pay big bucks to ship them, and also I
found a nice Dake ratcheting #1½ at Boeing Surplus. So I can offer a 2-ton
ratcheting arbor press for $75 for pickup in the Kirkland, Washington area.

Many people bore a hole in the end of their ram and then make punches and
dies. If they need a blunt end they make up one of those too. I was going
to do that but then I found a Whitney Jensen 10-ton bench punch and shortly
afterwards found a 30-ton Scotchman ironworker. So now I punch little stuff
with one and bigger stuff with the other. Punching beats the crap out of
drilling. I sure wish I could punch square tubing, though. I've nearly tripled
the money I spent on that ironworker doing jobs with it, wish I could say the
same about my other tools.

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington
To email me see http://www.tinyisland.com/email.html

Steven wrote:

A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor
press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling.
My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the
side.

What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more
useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or
make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc?

Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain?

I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and
such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools.

Thanks,

Steven Harris
Everson, WA




  #6   Report Post  
Backlash
 
Posts: n/a
Default Speaking of arbor presses

We pull the ram down until it sits on the object, then remove the screw in
the end of the shaft, slip it out of mesh, relocate the handle alignment,
then remesh, install bolt. This is to do setups for pressing thousands of
parts, to suit various operator's needs..

RJ

--
"You're just jealous because the voices are talking to me, instead of you."


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Lots of guys mill off the top tooth (or is it the bottom tooth) which

allows
you to move the ram, adjust the handle to the right place, and press. It's

a
"poor man's ratcheting" setup. On the other hand, I have a 2-ton

ratcheting
arbor press in Kirkland, Washington that is brand new but right after I

got
it 2 things happened. J&L moved out of the area, so now nobody carries

these
locally anymore so now you have to pay big bucks to ship them, and also I
found a nice Dake ratcheting #1½ at Boeing Surplus. So I can offer a 2-ton
ratcheting arbor press for $75 for pickup in the Kirkland, Washington

area.

Many people bore a hole in the end of their ram and then make punches and
dies. If they need a blunt end they make up one of those too. I was going
to do that but then I found a Whitney Jensen 10-ton bench punch and

shortly
afterwards found a 30-ton Scotchman ironworker. So now I punch little

stuff
with one and bigger stuff with the other. Punching beats the crap out of
drilling. I sure wish I could punch square tubing, though. I've nearly

tripled
the money I spent on that ironworker doing jobs with it, wish I could say

the
same about my other tools.

Grant Erwin
Kirkland, Washington
To email me see http://www.tinyisland.com/email.html

Steven wrote:

A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor
press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling.
My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the
side.

What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more
useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or
make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc?

Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain?

I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and
such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools.

Thanks,

Steven Harris
Everson, WA




  #8   Report Post  
Daniel A. Mitchell
 
Posts: n/a
Default Speaking of arbor presses

I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did
very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a
hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the
chuck. My ram was already drilled and tapped crosswise, and I didn't
want to drill too many holes in the end of the ram. Fortunately, I found
a piece of square aluminum tube that JUST fits over my ram. I just cut
off a slice of the tube and added an internal steel plate at one end to
make it into a sort of square 'cup'. The plate was drilled to mount the
chuck. Just slide it over the end of the ram, insert the cross screw,
and it's ready to use. It works well.

The chuck is useful for holding smaller pin punches and such, when
pressing or riveting. The chuck jaws don't take the force, just hold the
punch vertical and centered. The forces are transmitted up the punch to
the solid back of the chuck, to the 'shoe', and hence to the end of the
ram. All pure compressive forces.

It's a good use for an old chuck, perhaps one that doesn't hold or
center well anymore.

Just curious ... what use do you make of the sockets on the end of the ram?

Dan Mitchell
==========

Rick Renner wrote:

On 25 Feb 2004 08:51:36 -0800, (Steven) wrote:

A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor
press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling.
My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the
side.

What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more
useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or
make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc?

Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain?

I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and
such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools.

Thanks,

Steven Harris
Everson, WA


I've made a few modifications to my import 3 ton arbor press that may
be of interest. The end of the ram was drilled and tapped for a 1/2-20
screw stud. That then enabled me to attach jacobs type chucks to the
ram. I also made an adapter to allow 1/2 inch drive sockets to be held
on the end of the ram. I also made a screw press adapter for the
press. The adapter is substituted for the ram and pinion. Refer to the
following url's for pictorial details:

http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner...rpressadpt.JPG
http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner.../chuckadpt.JPG
http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner...socketadpt.JPG

Best regards ... Rick Renner

  #9   Report Post  
Harold & Susan Vordos
 
Posts: n/a
Default Speaking of arbor presses


"Daniel A. Mitchell" wrote in message
...
I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did
very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a
hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the
chuck.


And I second your *shoe* design, to which I alluded above. It makes no
sense to alter the bottom face of an arbor press unless you're prepared to
make tooling to avoid having to use the end of the ram for any reason, or
the arbor press is intended for specific usage.

Harold


  #10   Report Post  
Mark Rand
 
Posts: n/a
Default Speaking of arbor presses

On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 13:28:11 -0500, "Daniel A. Mitchell"
wrote:

I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did
very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a
hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the
chuck. My ram was already drilled and tapped crosswise, and I didn't
want to drill too many holes in the end of the ram. Fortunately, I found
a piece of square aluminum tube that JUST fits over my ram. I just cut
off a slice of the tube and added an internal steel plate at one end to
make it into a sort of square 'cup'. The plate was drilled to mount the
chuck. Just slide it over the end of the ram, insert the cross screw,
and it's ready to use. It works well.

The chuck is useful for holding smaller pin punches and such, when
pressing or riveting. The chuck jaws don't take the force, just hold the
punch vertical and centered. The forces are transmitted up the punch to
the solid back of the chuck, to the 'shoe', and hence to the end of the
ram. All pure compressive forces.

It's a good use for an old chuck, perhaps one that doesn't hold or
center well anymore.


Ahah! I've leaned something useful. Thank you for the explanation.


Mark Rand
RTFM


  #11   Report Post  
Rick Renner
 
Posts: n/a
Default Speaking of arbor presses

On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 11:45:32 -0800, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Daniel A. Mitchell" wrote in message
...
I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did
very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a
hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the
chuck.


And I second your *shoe* design, to which I alluded above. It makes no
sense to alter the bottom face of an arbor press unless you're prepared to
make tooling to avoid having to use the end of the ram for any reason, or
the arbor press is intended for specific usage.

Harold



In one of my photos I show a set screw lying on the press plate. That
set screw occupies the 1/2-20 hole when the adapter's aren't present.
I haven't lost any effectiveness in the overall function of the press
by the tapped hole modification. The press Broaches keyways just as
well as it did before the modification. There may be other operations
that my mod may impact but so far (about ten years of home shop
activity) I haven't encountered any.
  #12   Report Post  
Rick Renner
 
Posts: n/a
Default Speaking of arbor presses

On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 13:28:11 -0500, "Daniel A. Mitchell"
wrote:

I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did
very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a
hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the
chuck. My ram was already drilled and tapped crosswise, and I didn't
want to drill too many holes in the end of the ram. Fortunately, I found
a piece of square aluminum tube that JUST fits over my ram. I just cut
off a slice of the tube and added an internal steel plate at one end to
make it into a sort of square 'cup'. The plate was drilled to mount the
chuck. Just slide it over the end of the ram, insert the cross screw,
and it's ready to use. It works well.

The chuck is useful for holding smaller pin punches and such, when
pressing or riveting. The chuck jaws don't take the force, just hold the
punch vertical and centered. The forces are transmitted up the punch to
the solid back of the chuck, to the 'shoe', and hence to the end of the
ram. All pure compressive forces.

It's a good use for an old chuck, perhaps one that doesn't hold or
center well anymore.

Just curious ... what use do you make of the sockets on the end of the ram?

Dan Mitchell
==========

Rick Renner wrote:

On 25 Feb 2004 08:51:36 -0800, (Steven) wrote:

A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor
press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling.
My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the
side.

What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more
useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or
make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc?

Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain?

I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and
such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools.

Thanks,

Steven Harris
Everson, WA


I've made a few modifications to my import 3 ton arbor press that may
be of interest. The end of the ram was drilled and tapped for a 1/2-20
screw stud. That then enabled me to attach jacobs type chucks to the
ram. I also made an adapter to allow 1/2 inch drive sockets to be held
on the end of the ram. I also made a screw press adapter for the
press. The adapter is substituted for the ram and pinion. Refer to the
following url's for pictorial details:

http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner...rpressadpt.JPG
http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner.../chuckadpt.JPG
http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner...socketadpt.JPG

Best regards ... Rick Renner


I find that sockets make great press surfaces for the installation of
lipped seals and bearings. With the adapter in place the socket stays
put and aligned with the center of the item being pressed on/in.

Rick Renner
  #13   Report Post  
Steven
 
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Default Speaking of arbor presses

I've made a few modifications to my import 3 ton arbor press that may
be of interest. The end of the ram was drilled and tapped for a 1/2-20
screw stud. That then enabled me to attach jacobs type chucks to the
ram. I also made an adapter to allow 1/2 inch drive sockets to be held
on the end of the ram. I also made a screw press adapter for the
press. The adapter is substituted for the ram and pinion. Refer to the
following url's for pictorial details:


Thanks for the pictures Rick. I'm also interested in the adaptor to
use sockets. Is the use of sockets just a quick way to have a
variety of punch sizes?

I like the "cup" idea suggested by Harold and Dan, but I'm still
leaning towards drilling and tapping one end. It's not too difficult
to flip the ram around on my press. I'd have more options that way
and could avoid the mushed over hole peoblem mentioned by Harold. For
smaller jobs it would seem like a plus not having a bunch of tooling
hanging off the end.

Since we're on the subject, has anyone found the need to replace or
modify the "table"? So far, mine hasn't been a problem in it's "as
supplied" condition.

Steven Harris
Everson, WA
  #14   Report Post  
Harold & Susan Vordos
 
Posts: n/a
Default Speaking of arbor presses


"Steven" wrote in message
om...
I've made a few modifications to my import 3 ton arbor press that may
be of interest. The end of the ram was drilled and tapped for a 1/2-20
screw stud. That then enabled me to attach jacobs type chucks to the
ram. I also made an adapter to allow 1/2 inch drive sockets to be held
on the end of the ram. I also made a screw press adapter for the
press. The adapter is substituted for the ram and pinion. Refer to the
following url's for pictorial details:


Thanks for the pictures Rick. I'm also interested in the adaptor to
use sockets. Is the use of sockets just a quick way to have a
variety of punch sizes?

I like the "cup" idea suggested by Harold and Dan, but I'm still
leaning towards drilling and tapping one end. It's not too difficult
to flip the ram around on my press. I'd have more options that way
and could avoid the mushed over hole peoblem mentioned by Harold. For
smaller jobs it would seem like a plus not having a bunch of tooling
hanging off the end.

Since we're on the subject, has anyone found the need to replace or
modify the "table"? So far, mine hasn't been a problem in it's "as
supplied" condition.

Steven Harris
Everson, WA


Hey Steven,

I broke my plate years ago. Not sure, but I believe it is called a
bolster. At any rate, I purchased a large piece of 1" steel plate to
replace the broken cast iron bolster, but I have yet to make a new one.
When the day comes that I do, it will be made slightly differently so parts
have more support towards the front of the press. I never liked the
original.

Mean time, I have used some large rectangular bars of stainless in place of
the original, and they seem to serve me quite well, and permit supporting
both sides of an item.

I made an extension that permits working on longer pieces. It slips in
where the bolster would normally fit. By making a modified U
configuration, I added an additional 13" height. At this point I don't
have a hole through the bottom plate, but it would accommodate one
reasonably well so long as it's not very large. My press is a Dake 2B,
3/6 ton, compound leverage.

Anyone interested can ask and I'll send a pic or two and describe what I did
to make the extension.

Harold


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