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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor
press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling. My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the side. What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc? Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain? I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools. Thanks, Steven Harris Everson, WA |
#2
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![]() "Steven" wrote in message m... A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling. My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the side. What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc? Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain? I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools. Thanks, Steven Harris Everson, WA Hey Steve, It's my opinion that you shouldn't mess with the end of the ram. Because you need the flat end for many applications, anything you do to alter it could lead to problems, mushing of the hole, perhaps more mushing on the edges. You suggested using opposite ends of the ram. If you can change ends with the ram easily, no tear down of the press, I think your idea is good. My press would not respond to that idea because the ram can't be removed without taking the press apart. Assuming your press won't permit changing the ram without dismantling, If you feel a need for specific tooling, I think I'd suggest an adapter that fits over the end of the ram. You could clean up the existing mushing by belt sander so the newly made "cup" could fit over the ram, made to a snug fit slip and retained by a set screw. The opposite end of the cup could have a hole of sorts that would than accept specific adapters, again, held in place by a set screw. That frees up one hand, making it easier to do some things. Harold |
#3
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We have "clamp-on" adaptors for holding broaches square and pressing
certain sized bearings in and out. They are basically a "U" shaped saddle that fits over the end of the ram, with set screws in one leg to tighten them onto the side of the ram... nothing fancy. David "Steven" wrote in message m... A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling. My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the side. What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc? Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain? I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools. Thanks, Steven Harris Everson, WA |
#4
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we drilled a hole in the end and drilled a setscrew hole to hold any kind of
pin type attachement you want. we have made adapters to press in small roll pins, large anvils to press in larger bearings, hardened heads for stuff that you don't want to mar. "Steven" wrote in message m... A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling. My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the side. What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc? Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain? I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools. Thanks, Steven Harris Everson, WA |
#5
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Lots of guys mill off the top tooth (or is it the bottom tooth) which allows
you to move the ram, adjust the handle to the right place, and press. It's a "poor man's ratcheting" setup. On the other hand, I have a 2-ton ratcheting arbor press in Kirkland, Washington that is brand new but right after I got it 2 things happened. J&L moved out of the area, so now nobody carries these locally anymore so now you have to pay big bucks to ship them, and also I found a nice Dake ratcheting #1½ at Boeing Surplus. So I can offer a 2-ton ratcheting arbor press for $75 for pickup in the Kirkland, Washington area. Many people bore a hole in the end of their ram and then make punches and dies. If they need a blunt end they make up one of those too. I was going to do that but then I found a Whitney Jensen 10-ton bench punch and shortly afterwards found a 30-ton Scotchman ironworker. So now I punch little stuff with one and bigger stuff with the other. Punching beats the crap out of drilling. I sure wish I could punch square tubing, though. I've nearly tripled the money I spent on that ironworker doing jobs with it, wish I could say the same about my other tools. Grant Erwin Kirkland, Washington To email me see http://www.tinyisland.com/email.html Steven wrote: A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling. My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the side. What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc? Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain? I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools. Thanks, Steven Harris Everson, WA |
#6
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We pull the ram down until it sits on the object, then remove the screw in
the end of the shaft, slip it out of mesh, relocate the handle alignment, then remesh, install bolt. This is to do setups for pressing thousands of parts, to suit various operator's needs.. RJ -- "You're just jealous because the voices are talking to me, instead of you." "Grant Erwin" wrote in message ... Lots of guys mill off the top tooth (or is it the bottom tooth) which allows you to move the ram, adjust the handle to the right place, and press. It's a "poor man's ratcheting" setup. On the other hand, I have a 2-ton ratcheting arbor press in Kirkland, Washington that is brand new but right after I got it 2 things happened. J&L moved out of the area, so now nobody carries these locally anymore so now you have to pay big bucks to ship them, and also I found a nice Dake ratcheting #1½ at Boeing Surplus. So I can offer a 2-ton ratcheting arbor press for $75 for pickup in the Kirkland, Washington area. Many people bore a hole in the end of their ram and then make punches and dies. If they need a blunt end they make up one of those too. I was going to do that but then I found a Whitney Jensen 10-ton bench punch and shortly afterwards found a 30-ton Scotchman ironworker. So now I punch little stuff with one and bigger stuff with the other. Punching beats the crap out of drilling. I sure wish I could punch square tubing, though. I've nearly tripled the money I spent on that ironworker doing jobs with it, wish I could say the same about my other tools. Grant Erwin Kirkland, Washington To email me see http://www.tinyisland.com/email.html Steven wrote: A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling. My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the side. What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc? Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain? I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools. Thanks, Steven Harris Everson, WA |
#8
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I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did
very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the chuck. My ram was already drilled and tapped crosswise, and I didn't want to drill too many holes in the end of the ram. Fortunately, I found a piece of square aluminum tube that JUST fits over my ram. I just cut off a slice of the tube and added an internal steel plate at one end to make it into a sort of square 'cup'. The plate was drilled to mount the chuck. Just slide it over the end of the ram, insert the cross screw, and it's ready to use. It works well. The chuck is useful for holding smaller pin punches and such, when pressing or riveting. The chuck jaws don't take the force, just hold the punch vertical and centered. The forces are transmitted up the punch to the solid back of the chuck, to the 'shoe', and hence to the end of the ram. All pure compressive forces. It's a good use for an old chuck, perhaps one that doesn't hold or center well anymore. Just curious ... what use do you make of the sockets on the end of the ram? Dan Mitchell ========== Rick Renner wrote: On 25 Feb 2004 08:51:36 -0800, (Steven) wrote: A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling. My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the side. What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc? Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain? I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools. Thanks, Steven Harris Everson, WA I've made a few modifications to my import 3 ton arbor press that may be of interest. The end of the ram was drilled and tapped for a 1/2-20 screw stud. That then enabled me to attach jacobs type chucks to the ram. I also made an adapter to allow 1/2 inch drive sockets to be held on the end of the ram. I also made a screw press adapter for the press. The adapter is substituted for the ram and pinion. Refer to the following url's for pictorial details: http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner...rpressadpt.JPG http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner.../chuckadpt.JPG http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner...socketadpt.JPG Best regards ... Rick Renner |
#9
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![]() "Daniel A. Mitchell" wrote in message ... I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the chuck. And I second your *shoe* design, to which I alluded above. It makes no sense to alter the bottom face of an arbor press unless you're prepared to make tooling to avoid having to use the end of the ram for any reason, or the arbor press is intended for specific usage. Harold |
#10
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On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 11:45:32 -0800, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote: "Daniel A. Mitchell" wrote in message ... I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the chuck. And I second your *shoe* design, to which I alluded above. It makes no sense to alter the bottom face of an arbor press unless you're prepared to make tooling to avoid having to use the end of the ram for any reason, or the arbor press is intended for specific usage. Harold In one of my photos I show a set screw lying on the press plate. That set screw occupies the 1/2-20 hole when the adapter's aren't present. I haven't lost any effectiveness in the overall function of the press by the tapped hole modification. The press Broaches keyways just as well as it did before the modification. There may be other operations that my mod may impact but so far (about ten years of home shop activity) I haven't encountered any. |
#11
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On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 13:28:11 -0500, "Daniel A. Mitchell"
wrote: I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the chuck. My ram was already drilled and tapped crosswise, and I didn't want to drill too many holes in the end of the ram. Fortunately, I found a piece of square aluminum tube that JUST fits over my ram. I just cut off a slice of the tube and added an internal steel plate at one end to make it into a sort of square 'cup'. The plate was drilled to mount the chuck. Just slide it over the end of the ram, insert the cross screw, and it's ready to use. It works well. The chuck is useful for holding smaller pin punches and such, when pressing or riveting. The chuck jaws don't take the force, just hold the punch vertical and centered. The forces are transmitted up the punch to the solid back of the chuck, to the 'shoe', and hence to the end of the ram. All pure compressive forces. It's a good use for an old chuck, perhaps one that doesn't hold or center well anymore. Ahah! I've leaned something useful. Thank you for the explanation. Mark Rand RTFM |
#12
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On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 13:28:11 -0500, "Daniel A. Mitchell"
wrote: I second the usefulness of the chuck on the end of the press ram. I did very similar, but instead of threading into the end of the ram, I made a hollow square 'shoe' that fits over the end of the ram, and mounts the chuck. My ram was already drilled and tapped crosswise, and I didn't want to drill too many holes in the end of the ram. Fortunately, I found a piece of square aluminum tube that JUST fits over my ram. I just cut off a slice of the tube and added an internal steel plate at one end to make it into a sort of square 'cup'. The plate was drilled to mount the chuck. Just slide it over the end of the ram, insert the cross screw, and it's ready to use. It works well. The chuck is useful for holding smaller pin punches and such, when pressing or riveting. The chuck jaws don't take the force, just hold the punch vertical and centered. The forces are transmitted up the punch to the solid back of the chuck, to the 'shoe', and hence to the end of the ram. All pure compressive forces. It's a good use for an old chuck, perhaps one that doesn't hold or center well anymore. Just curious ... what use do you make of the sockets on the end of the ram? Dan Mitchell ========== Rick Renner wrote: On 25 Feb 2004 08:51:36 -0800, (Steven) wrote: A recent posting on arbor presses got me thinking again about my arbor press. It seems to me that the working end of the ram needs tooling. My ram is plain on the end, just square stock with a rack cut into the side. What if anything have you fellows done to make your press more useuable? Would one drill and thread the ram on the centerline or make a clamp arrangement to hold tooling or punches, etc? Maybe do one end of the ram with "?" and leave the other end plain? I haven't had any real need to do much more that pressing a arbor and such, but I'm always looking to "improve" these types of basic tools. Thanks, Steven Harris Everson, WA I've made a few modifications to my import 3 ton arbor press that may be of interest. The end of the ram was drilled and tapped for a 1/2-20 screw stud. That then enabled me to attach jacobs type chucks to the ram. I also made an adapter to allow 1/2 inch drive sockets to be held on the end of the ram. I also made a screw press adapter for the press. The adapter is substituted for the ram and pinion. Refer to the following url's for pictorial details: http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner...rpressadpt.JPG http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner.../chuckadpt.JPG http://home.worldnet.att.net/~renner...socketadpt.JPG Best regards ... Rick Renner I find that sockets make great press surfaces for the installation of lipped seals and bearings. With the adapter in place the socket stays put and aligned with the center of the item being pressed on/in. Rick Renner |
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I've made a few modifications to my import 3 ton arbor press that may
be of interest. The end of the ram was drilled and tapped for a 1/2-20 screw stud. That then enabled me to attach jacobs type chucks to the ram. I also made an adapter to allow 1/2 inch drive sockets to be held on the end of the ram. I also made a screw press adapter for the press. The adapter is substituted for the ram and pinion. Refer to the following url's for pictorial details: Thanks for the pictures Rick. I'm also interested in the adaptor to use sockets. Is the use of sockets just a quick way to have a variety of punch sizes? I like the "cup" idea suggested by Harold and Dan, but I'm still leaning towards drilling and tapping one end. It's not too difficult to flip the ram around on my press. I'd have more options that way and could avoid the mushed over hole peoblem mentioned by Harold. For smaller jobs it would seem like a plus not having a bunch of tooling hanging off the end. Since we're on the subject, has anyone found the need to replace or modify the "table"? So far, mine hasn't been a problem in it's "as supplied" condition. Steven Harris Everson, WA |
#14
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![]() "Steven" wrote in message om... I've made a few modifications to my import 3 ton arbor press that may be of interest. The end of the ram was drilled and tapped for a 1/2-20 screw stud. That then enabled me to attach jacobs type chucks to the ram. I also made an adapter to allow 1/2 inch drive sockets to be held on the end of the ram. I also made a screw press adapter for the press. The adapter is substituted for the ram and pinion. Refer to the following url's for pictorial details: Thanks for the pictures Rick. I'm also interested in the adaptor to use sockets. Is the use of sockets just a quick way to have a variety of punch sizes? I like the "cup" idea suggested by Harold and Dan, but I'm still leaning towards drilling and tapping one end. It's not too difficult to flip the ram around on my press. I'd have more options that way and could avoid the mushed over hole peoblem mentioned by Harold. For smaller jobs it would seem like a plus not having a bunch of tooling hanging off the end. Since we're on the subject, has anyone found the need to replace or modify the "table"? So far, mine hasn't been a problem in it's "as supplied" condition. Steven Harris Everson, WA Hey Steven, I broke my plate years ago. Not sure, but I believe it is called a bolster. At any rate, I purchased a large piece of 1" steel plate to replace the broken cast iron bolster, but I have yet to make a new one. When the day comes that I do, it will be made slightly differently so parts have more support towards the front of the press. I never liked the original. Mean time, I have used some large rectangular bars of stainless in place of the original, and they seem to serve me quite well, and permit supporting both sides of an item. I made an extension that permits working on longer pieces. It slips in where the bolster would normally fit. By making a modified U configuration, I added an additional 13" height. At this point I don't have a hole through the bottom plate, but it would accommodate one reasonably well so long as it's not very large. My press is a Dake 2B, 3/6 ton, compound leverage. Anyone interested can ask and I'll send a pic or two and describe what I did to make the extension. Harold |
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