After deciding on the Grizzly G0463 Mill/Drill, it's time to pick
out a small lathe.

Rules of the game:
110v
Moveable by mere mortals down stairs
Must be able to cut 56TPI threads (used in old Winchester rifles)
Spindle bore of 1" or better
Distance between centers of 24" or better

Q: Would being able to feed and thread to the left be worth it?

G9972Z 11" x 26" Bench Lathe w/ Gearbox
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9972Z

Motor: 1 HP, 110v
Swing: 10-5/8" over bed; 6-3/8" over cross-slide
Distance between centers: 26"
Travel: 3-1/2" compound; 7" cross-slide; 23" carriage
6 speeds: 150, 300, 560, 720, 1200, 2400 RPM

Feeds and threads to the left only
MT#4 spindle nose taper, 1" spindle bore
8-56TPI inch thread range, 27 inch, 11 metric threads
..05-3.0mm metric thread range
..0023-.013 feed range; 3/4"-8TPI lead screw
3/8" x 3/"8" maximum tool size
MT#3 tailstock barrel taper, 2-1/2" tailstock barrel travel
1-3/4" x 8TPI spindle thread
18 longitudinal feed
23" wide x 51" long x 19" high overall dimensions
approximate shipping weight of 559 lbs.

LatheMaster model: HD250X750 9 x 30 Lathe
http://www.lathemaster.com/LATHEMASTER9x30Lathe.htm

This lathe will cut left hand threads and make cuts away from the
chuck with the easy installation of the included feed reverse gear!

Swing over Bed: 9 ", over Cross Slide: 5 7/8"
Distance between centers: 30", Carriage Travel: 25"
Spindle speeds: 6, (125, 210, 450, 620, 1000, 2000 rpm)
Longitudinal Feeds: 2 (.005,.010)
12 Inch (8 - 40TPI) and 12 Metric Threads: 12 (.4 - 3mm)
Cross Slide Travel: 4 1/2", Compound Travel: 2 5/16""
Tailstock Taper MT2 Spindle Travel: 2 3/4"

Spindle Taper: MT3, Bo 20mm (3/4")
Motor: 3/4 HP, 110V/60Hz
Machine weight: 330lbs.

On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 07:19:43 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:


Q: Would being able to feed and thread to the left be worth it?



Huh?????

Randy Replogle
--
Randy Replogle

Is the ability to turn and thread in a direction AWAY from the headstock
worth a few extra bucks?

Would that ability ever be nice to have? One task that will come up is
threading away from a shoulder on a workpiece in the chuck. Yes, I could
thread into the shoulder, but you snooze, you loose, and the tool runs
into the shoulder and dorks up both workpiece and tool.

Randy Replogle wrote:
On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 07:19:43 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:


Q: Would being able to feed and thread to the left be worth it?



Huh?????

Randy Replogle

Can you explain how you intend to do that while not unscrewing your
lathe chuck and working from the back side of the cross feed? Most
lathes will run in reverse to do what you want but mounting the tool
holder is tricky.

Louis Ohland wrote:

Is the ability to turn and thread in a direction AWAY from the headstock
worth a few extra bucks?

Would that ability ever be nice to have? One task that will come up is
threading away from a shoulder on a workpiece in the chuck. Yes, I could
thread into the shoulder, but you snooze, you loose, and the tool runs
into the shoulder and dorks up both workpiece and tool.

Randy Replogle wrote:

On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 07:19:43 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:


Q: Would being able to feed and thread to the left be worth it?



Huh?????

Randy Replogle

Fools rush in where angels fear to tread. I love the uncertain...

Consider working on a cylindrical workpiece in the chuck. You want to
thread it away from the chuck so you can form the shoulder and threads
without feeding into the chuck.

As to the toolholder, are you concerned about the toolholder being on
the downfeed side? Otherwise, the turning forces are pushing the
toolholder out of the toolpost? Mary, mother of multiple hold down
bolts, hear my plea...

Oh, heck, I want to turn threads using centers. I just have to come up
with an interrupter so the tool is pulled back when the lathe dog swings
through. Just as easy as parting between centers.

RoyJ wrote:
Can you explain how you intend to do that while not unscrewing your
lathe chuck and working from the back side of the cross feed? Most
lathes will run in reverse to do what you want but mounting the tool
holder is tricky.

Louis Ohland wrote:

Is the ability to turn and thread in a direction AWAY from the
headstock worth a few extra bucks?

Would that ability ever be nice to have? One task that will come up is
threading away from a shoulder on a workpiece in the chuck. Yes, I
could thread into the shoulder, but you snooze, you loose, and the
tool runs into the shoulder and dorks up both workpiece and tool.

Randy Replogle wrote:

On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 07:19:43 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:


Q: Would being able to feed and thread to the left be worth it?



Huh?????

Randy Replogle

Yes, I could
thread into the shoulder, but you snooze, you loose, and the tool runs

I don't know about most of the guys on the group, but when I am
threading, the last thing on my mind is snoozing. For me, anyway, it
takes a huge chunk of my attention.
Bill.

On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 11:14:21 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:

Is the ability to turn and thread in a direction AWAY from the headstock
worth a few extra bucks?

Would that ability ever be nice to have? One task that will come up is
threading away from a shoulder on a workpiece in the chuck. Yes, I could
thread into the shoulder, but you snooze, you loose, and the tool runs
into the shoulder and dorks up both workpiece and tool.

Dont spend the extra money. Threading to a shoulder is common
practice.There are some tricks of the trade involved. Now you've
gained some respect for professional machinists.

Randy Replogle
--
Randy Replogle

Whether or not one is eagle eyed and strung out on coffee, trying to
stop cutting a thread while traveling into a shoulder is not for the
faint hearted.

wrote:
Yes, I could
thread into the shoulder, but you snooze, you loose, and the tool runs
I don't know about most of the guys on the group, but when I am
threading, the last thing on my mind is snoozing. For me, anyway, it
takes a huge chunk of my attention.
Bill.

On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 16:02:10 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:


Oh, heck, I want to turn threads using centers. I just have to come up
with an interrupter so the tool is pulled back when the lathe dog swings
through. Just as easy as parting between centers.



You can cut threads between centers. Leave a little extra material to
clamp the dog on then cut it off later.

And never part between centers, at least not all the way through.
Unsupported spinning parts can hurt you.

Randy Replogle
--
Randy Replogle

Where is a good source for understanding this technique?

Crashing into the shoulder of a barrel while threading the shank is not
on my list of things that I'd like to do.

Randy Replogle wrote:
Threading to a shoulder is common
practice.There are some tricks of the trade involved.

Randy Replogle wrote:
You can cut threads between centers. Leave a little extra material to
clamp the dog on then cut it off later.

Hmm, I wonder if a mandrel would work for barrels.

And never part between centers, at least not all the way through.
Unsupported spinning parts can hurt you.

That was tongue in cheek. In a metalworking class at a local Tech
college, I saw a 3 or so HP Bridgeport vertical mill with braille labels
on it.

My idea of realistic is NOT doing a Helen Keller on a big machine while
big cutting tools are moving.

On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 19:06:23 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:

Where is a good source for understanding this technique?

Crashing into the shoulder of a barrel while threading the shank is not
on my list of things that I'd like to do.

Randy Replogle wrote:
Threading to a shoulder is common
practice.There are some tricks of the trade involved.

I like to cut a "runout groove" where the threaded secton meets the
shoulder. This is at least one threadwidth and a little deeper than
the thread. You can do it with your parting tool. You still have to be
alert but when the threading tool enters the runout groove disengage
the threading lever and the tool just sits there in the groove as the
part turns. This allows you to back the tool out and set up for the
next pass at your leisure.

--
Randy Replogle

I like to cut a "runout groove" where the threaded secton
meets.......
I agree with Randy. Fainthearted? No. But you really, really need to
pay attention when you get close to this end of your threading.
Bill.

On 1 Apr 2006 19:34:46 -0800, wrote:

I like to cut a "runout groove" where the threaded secton
meets.......
I agree with Randy. Fainthearted? No. But you really, really need to
pay attention when you get close to this end of your threading.
Bill.

Odd..I can thread on my lath up to about 1000 rpm, right up to a
shoulder. Works pretty good

Gunner



"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3

According to Gunner :
On 1 Apr 2006 19:34:46 -0800, wrote:

I like to cut a "runout groove" where the threaded secton
meets.......
I agree with Randy. Fainthearted? No. But you really, really need to
pay attention when you get close to this end of your threading.
Bill.

Odd..I can thread on my lath up to about 1000 rpm, right up to a
shoulder. Works pretty good

What thread pitch? Something like an 80 TPI would be pretty
easy, even with the too-fast spindles on some of the toy lathes.

4 TPI would mean that you have about 0.060 seconds reaction time
if the runout groove is 1 thread wide (0.250"). (Of course you would
have as little time with 80 TPI and a single thread width of runout
groove, but you *could* make the runout groove a bit wider to increase
your grace time.

For me, the coarser the pitch, the slower I want to run the
spindle, unless it is my little CNC machine, which takes care of the
withdrawal by itself -- but it won't thread any faster than 200 RPM
anyway.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sun, 02 Apr 2006 07:02:55 +0000, (DoN.
Nichols) wrote:

According to Gunner :
On 1 Apr 2006 19:34:46 -0800, wrote:

I like to cut a "runout groove" where the threaded secton
meets.......
I agree with Randy. Fainthearted? No. But you really, really need to
pay attention when you get close to this end of your threading.
Bill.

Odd..I can thread on my lath up to about 1000 rpm, right up to a
shoulder. Works pretty good

What thread pitch? Something like an 80 TPI would be pretty
easy, even with the too-fast spindles on some of the toy lathes.

4 TPI would mean that you have about 0.060 seconds reaction time
if the runout groove is 1 thread wide (0.250"). (Of course you would
have as little time with 80 TPI and a single thread width of runout
groove, but you *could* make the runout groove a bit wider to increase
your grace time.

For me, the coarser the pitch, the slower I want to run the
spindle, unless it is my little CNC machine, which takes care of the
withdrawal by itself -- but it won't thread any faster than 200 RPM
anyway.

Enjoy,
DoN.


My HLV-H will only do a 10tpi or finer, unfortunately. But I can do 10
tpi at 1000 rpm.
G

On the other hand..I really really wish it WOULD do faster threads.
Damnit


Gunner



"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3

In article ,
says...
On Sun, 02 Apr 2006 07:02:55 +0000, (DoN.
Nichols) wrote:

According to Gunner :

Odd..I can thread on my lath up to about 1000 rpm, right up to a
shoulder. Works pretty good


What thread pitch? Something like an 80 TPI would be pretty
easy, even with the too-fast spindles on some of the toy lathes.




My HLV-H will only do a 10tpi or finer, unfortunately. But I can do 10
tpi at 1000 rpm.
G


I could see that coming. g I rarely single point threads, but when I
do, my Feeler HLV-H clone makes me look quite good.

Ned Simmons

I used to cut barrel threads on a Clausing Colchester 14X40 that had a high
speed threading attachment. It disengaged automaticly when the carraige hit
a preset stop. 16 tpi at 600 rpm. It was scary when I first used it thinking
I'm gonna hit the shoulder, but it never did. I wish I had that attachment
on my 5914. Anybody ever seen one one?
Tom
wrote in message
ups.com...
I like to cut a "runout groove" where the threaded secton
meets.......
I agree with Randy. Fainthearted? No. But you really, really need to
pay attention when you get close to this end of your threading.
Bill.

On Sun, 2 Apr 2006 13:15:31 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

In article ,
says...
On Sun, 02 Apr 2006 07:02:55 +0000, (DoN.
Nichols) wrote:

According to Gunner :

Odd..I can thread on my lath up to about 1000 rpm, right up to a
shoulder. Works pretty good


What thread pitch? Something like an 80 TPI would be pretty
easy, even with the too-fast spindles on some of the toy lathes.




My HLV-H will only do a 10tpi or finer, unfortunately. But I can do 10
tpi at 1000 rpm.
G


I could see that coming. g I rarely single point threads, but when I
do, my Feeler HLV-H clone makes me look quite good.

Ned Simmons


Its quite a rythem too..lever left, compound out, lever right,
compound in, a couple thous infeed, lever left...makes ya look like ya
know what you are doing. G

I did my first metric thread last night...12x1.75 using the outside
change gears/ Both times..I made it too loose. Damnit.

Making a drawbar for BT30 endmill holder. Ive made it 4 times
now..first two times I thought it was 1/2-14....sigh..It wasnt. I dont
have metric thread gauge.and it sure LOOKED like 14 thread...then I
went looking on the net for the threads used on retention
knobs...oops.

No metric thread mics..and I buggered up my conversion calcs when
using a standard mic. My bad. Today..Ill try again..maybe Ill get it
right this time. Im running out of 1/2" bar stock.. I only have 304 in
this size with a homemade thread tool, ..so its not been really fun
cutting threads..even using the tailstock and a live center...

When I thread..I always come really close..then take a thousand or two
too much and its sloppy. I really really need to work on this.

Getting a proper thread tool might help too..shrug

Gunner






"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3

On Sun, 02 Apr 2006 18:12:01 GMT, "Tom Wait"
wrote:

I used to cut barrel threads on a Clausing Colchester 14X40 that had a high
speed threading attachment. It disengaged automaticly when the carraige hit
a preset stop. 16 tpi at 600 rpm. It was scary when I first used it thinking
I'm gonna hit the shoulder, but it never did. I wish I had that attachment
on my 5914. Anybody ever seen one one?
Tom


Ive seen em...but everyone hangs on to them like a first born child.
Id love to have one for the Clausing Colchester 1501 (15x48)

I buggered up my first Arisaka barrel trying to go to fast...blush


wrote in message
oups.com...
I like to cut a "runout groove" where the threaded secton
meets.......
I agree with Randy. Fainthearted? No. But you really, really need to
pay attention when you get close to this end of your threading.
Bill.





"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3