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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Anchoring Machne tools to floor
David Utidjian wrote:
I need to anchor a 9"swing 40" long bed (with cabinet base) Rockwell lathe to a concrete floor. I need to make it as level as possible and then level the bed. There are level adjusting nuts and screws between the cast iron bed and the cabinet. The cabinet has 1/2" diameter holes in 4 tabs at its base. The floor is well cured smooth flat concrete (poured about 30 years ago). I have a Starrett No. 199 Master Precision Level for the final leveling. My plan was to use 3/8" X 3 3/4" "redhead" or "ramset" anchors and those automotive shims that are about 1" square with U slots in them as the levelling shims. Does that sound like a reasonable plan? Are there better tricks for getting the cabinet level than jamming in shims? Would 3/8" be strong enough? Would(approx) 3" of the bolt below grade be deep enough? I was thinking since the bolts will actually be studs and if I have enough thread above grade I could first put a big washer and nut to secure the stud in the concrete and then add another nut and washer as a "jack" then comes the tab on the cabinet base and then a final washer and nut. Of course this arrangement would raise the cabinet tabs at least the thickness of two nuts and two washers above the floor surface. I would also make leveling MUCH easier. Does that sound like a reasonable idea? Should I go with the full 1/2" anchors instead of 3/8"? Also... currently the lathe is about 6" from a cinderbock wall. Makes it damn difficult to clean behind it. Since I have a lot of room to play with how much clearance from the wall would be a good idea? Just enough to walk around it easily? Since this is my first time setting up such a (relatively) large machine and since concrete anchor bolts are rather permanent I would like to do it right the first time. -DU-...etc... The precision level is a nice tool and all, but a bit overkill considering the likleyhood that after you go to all that trouble to get it leveled up, you are most likely to have to adjust the various legs in quite unlevel directions to get the lathe to cut straight. Level is a good start though. Just don't get too heartbroken if the lathe cuts a taper when level. Cheers Trevor Jones Search "Rollies Dad's Method of lathe alignment" to find much discussion on the pros and cons of leveling as the be all end all. |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Anchoring Machne tools to floor
Trevor Jones wrote:
David Utidjian wrote: I need to anchor a 9"swing 40" long bed (with cabinet base) Rockwell lathe to a concrete floor. I need to make it as level as possible and then level the bed. There are level adjusting nuts and screws between the cast iron bed and the cabinet. The cabinet has 1/2" diameter holes in 4 tabs at its base. The floor is well cured smooth flat concrete (poured about 30 years ago). I have a Starrett No. 199 Master Precision Level for the final leveling. My plan was to use 3/8" X 3 3/4" "redhead" or "ramset" anchors and those automotive shims that are about 1" square with U slots in them as the levelling shims. Does that sound like a reasonable plan? Are there better tricks for getting the cabinet level than jamming in shims? Would 3/8" be strong enough? Would(approx) 3" of the bolt below grade be deep enough? I was thinking since the bolts will actually be studs and if I have enough thread above grade I could first put a big washer and nut to secure the stud in the concrete and then add another nut and washer as a "jack" then comes the tab on the cabinet base and then a final washer and nut. Of course this arrangement would raise the cabinet tabs at least the thickness of two nuts and two washers above the floor surface. I would also make leveling MUCH easier. Does that sound like a reasonable idea? Should I go with the full 1/2" anchors instead of 3/8"? Also... currently the lathe is about 6" from a cinderbock wall. Makes it damn difficult to clean behind it. Since I have a lot of room to play with how much clearance from the wall would be a good idea? Just enough to walk around it easily? Since this is my first time setting up such a (relatively) large machine and since concrete anchor bolts are rather permanent I would like to do it right the first time. -DU-...etc... The precision level is a nice tool and all, but a bit overkill considering the likleyhood that after you go to all that trouble to get it leveled up, you are most likely to have to adjust the various legs in quite unlevel directions to get the lathe to cut straight. Level is a good start though. Just don't get too heartbroken if the lathe cuts a taper when level. Cheers Trevor Jones Search "Rollies Dad's Method of lathe alignment" to find much discussion on the pros and cons of leveling as the be all end all. The lathe does not need to be "level". The bed must have no twist in it that will make the tool post go toward and away from the work. The fact is that you can twist a bed of a lathe to compensate for wear in the bed so it will cut straight. "Leveling" a lathe can be a tedious chore if you have a long bed since shimming the feet at the far end of the headstock will cause movement at the other end. If you don't tie down the lathe to the floor you lose a lot of rigidify that you get from the additional strength of the bolting to the floor. IF your lathe doesn't have leveling adjustments you can buy or make some by drilling a crosswise hole in a square plate and hacksawing it on the diagonal. Then put a threaded rod though the hole to use the whole thing as an adjustable wedge as you draw the two halves together. These are available commercially. Remember that for every half a thousandth out of straight that the bed is, you get a .001 error in the diameter. With some patience you can get it within a half thousandth or better. John |
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