I blew a fuse on my Harbor Freight Mig welder. It's the 220v dual mig
151. I can't find the manual for it, and was wondering if anyone knows
what fuse it takes? The fuse is a glass "tube and wire" type, with two
end caps. It's on the ciruit board, and is the only fuse it has.

Thanks for any help,

Jeff Polaski

I should have added that the fuse has F2A250 stamped on the side of one
of the caps. It seems to be for protecting the little 12v. wire-feed
motor. At least, without the fuse the welder powers-up fine, but the
motor doesn't run.

Thanks for you help. It's a tiny little breaker, with an equally tiny
wire running through it so I kinda' thought that it'd be 2 amps. But I
wasn't sure if it was some sort of part number or something.

Again, thanks!

..

wrote

But I
wasn't sure if it was some sort of part number or something.

Again, thanks!

Whenever seeking a part, it is a good practice to just carry the old one in,
hand it to the geek behind the counter, and let them tell you what it is.
That is why I like to go to NAPA stores, and those who hire people who
actually know about what they deal in.

But, yes, it IS a very very good idea to always take the old part with you
no matter what kind of machinery it is. That is, unless it is just too big
or welded down or lots of wires, or the like. Mounting tabs, bolt patterns,
casting lugs, lots of things can be just different enough that you won't get
an exact match unless you have the old one. No matter what the parts book
says. There were lots of models and modifications within a year.

Steve

I blew a fuse on my Harbor Freight Mig welder. It's the 220v dual mig
151. I can't find the manual for it, and was wondering if anyone knows
what fuse it takes? The fuse is a glass "tube and wire" type, with two
end caps. It's on the ciruit board, and is the only fuse it has.

Thanks for any help,

Jeff Polaski
Go to the harbor freight web site:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=6271
Look near the bottom of the page and download the manual.


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com
My hobby pages are he
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Severe stupidity is self correcting, but mild stupidity is rampant in the land.
-Ron Thompson

That is the 2 amp 250 volt rating.
You can find them at Radio Shack or most auto places... - form factor isn't important.

The important part - were you stressing it when it blew - or did something break.
Guess you will find that out with the second or third fuse....

martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



wrote:
I should have added that the fuse has F2A250 stamped on the side of one
of the caps. It seems to be for protecting the little 12v. wire-feed
motor. At least, without the fuse the welder powers-up fine, but the
motor doesn't run.


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wrote in message
ups.com...
I should have added that the fuse has F2A250 stamped on the side of one
of the caps. It seems to be for protecting the little 12v. wire-feed
motor. At least, without the fuse the welder powers-up fine, but the
motor doesn't run.


You have answerd your own question :-)
It is a 2 Amper fuse. (glass-tube)

And i asume the 'glass-housing' is 6X30 millimeter.
or it can be the smaller housing ( 5x20millimeter)

"250" means that it is suited for breaking 250 Volt. Do not pay any
attention to
this parameter. The parameters to apply whit is the HOUSING & AMPERAGE.

Take it whit you to a gas station and i'm sure they have one for you .
(bring along the old fuse! )

AP

On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 21:57:57 -0800, "A.P."
wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

I should have added that the fuse has F2A250 stamped on the side of one
of the caps. It seems to be for protecting the little 12v. wire-feed
motor. At least, without the fuse the welder powers-up fine, but the
motor doesn't run.

You have answerd your own question :-)
It is a 2 Amper fuse. (glass-tube)

And i asume the 'glass-housing' is 6X30 millimeter.
or it can be the smaller housing ( 5x20millimeter)

"250" means that it is suited for breaking 250 Volt. Do not pay any
attention to
this parameter. The parameters to apply whit is the HOUSING & AMPERAGE.

No, actually you DO have to pay attention to the voltage ratings and
the interrupting capacity ratings of any fuse. Because if you install
a 2A Automotive glass fuse only rated to break 32VDC at a moderate
interrupting rating it will work just fine under normal operating
conditions.

But if you put a hard short across that 32V fuse at 240V or higher
and there's a healthy current source behind it (10,000A is easy to
get, and 22,000A fault current isn't difficult), it may not be able to
break the arc - and that arc will quickly start doing major damage to
everything in the area.

The fuses designed for higher interrupting ratings use the fiber
tube fuses with filler granules and powders inside specifically to
quench and snuff the arc when they blow.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

You know, I knew there was a manual for it on the web site, but I just
couldn't find it! I was staring at the button the whole time, but just
didn't see it. Thanks for pointing it out.

On 28 Feb 2006 14:09:07 -0800, wrote:

Thanks for you help. It's a tiny little breaker, with an equally tiny
wire running through it so I kinda' thought that it'd be 2 amps. But I
wasn't sure if it was some sort of part number or something.

Again, thanks!

.
If ya cant find it in So Cal Jeff, Ive got a **** load of them.

I once bought a couple milk cartons of various fuses for $5

Gunner



"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3