On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 21:57:57 -0800, "A.P."
wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

I should have added that the fuse has F2A250 stamped on the side of one
of the caps. It seems to be for protecting the little 12v. wire-feed
motor. At least, without the fuse the welder powers-up fine, but the
motor doesn't run.

You have answerd your own question :-)
It is a 2 Amper fuse. (glass-tube)

And i asume the 'glass-housing' is 6X30 millimeter.
or it can be the smaller housing ( 5x20millimeter)

"250" means that it is suited for breaking 250 Volt. Do not pay any
attention to
this parameter. The parameters to apply whit is the HOUSING & AMPERAGE.

No, actually you DO have to pay attention to the voltage ratings and
the interrupting capacity ratings of any fuse. Because if you install
a 2A Automotive glass fuse only rated to break 32VDC at a moderate
interrupting rating it will work just fine under normal operating
conditions.

But if you put a hard short across that 32V fuse at 240V or higher
and there's a healthy current source behind it (10,000A is easy to
get, and 22,000A fault current isn't difficult), it may not be able to
break the arc - and that arc will quickly start doing major damage to
everything in the area.

The fuses designed for higher interrupting ratings use the fiber
tube fuses with filler granules and powders inside specifically to
quench and snuff the arc when they blow.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
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