Can anyone elaborate on the differences between a Drill and a Mill as
far as the relative size, placement, and materials when it comes to the
chuck, spindle, quill, arbor, collet, bearings, gears, ect.?

In other words, it's obvious that a mill can move the tooling along
more than a single axis, unlike the drill press, but I am attempting to
get a handle on the *physical* reasons why so many here say that a
drill press shouldn't be adapted to mill use.

If these physical reasons can be solved with only small manufacturing
changes in drill presses to allow them to become more suited for
milling, then does the conventional drill presses unsuitability have to
do with the bottom line of the manufacturers or lack of consumer
interest responsible for a lack suitable adapers/tooling, or perhaps
there are other logistical issues involved?

I've heard about the specific forces that the bearings and so forth
would have to take as being a reason for a drill presses unsuitability
for milling operations, but it seems to me that a suitable gearing
adapter would negate much of these "lopsided" forces.(Probably at the
expense of a lot of power).

Also, I figure that since so many of you have been machining for so
many years, is there a possibilty that any bad drill press milling
experiences are at least in part a result of a lack of availability of
suitable adapters and tooling for this?

Anyway, in the meantime I will of course still take the advice of not
using a drill press for milling purposes, but only when it comes to
metals, because there shouldn't be as much of a problem with plastics
like Nylon or Delrin.(But I'll listen to opinions either way). :-)

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Can anyone elaborate on the differences between a Drill and a Mill as
far as the relative size, placement, and materials when it comes to the
chuck, spindle, quill, arbor, collet, bearings, gears, ect.?

In other words, it's obvious that a mill can move the tooling along
more than a single axis, unlike the drill press, but I am attempting to
get a handle on the *physical* reasons why so many here say that a
drill press shouldn't be adapted to mill use.

If these physical reasons can be solved with only small manufacturing
changes in drill presses to allow them to become more suited for
milling, then does the conventional drill presses unsuitability have to
do with the bottom line of the manufacturers or lack of consumer
interest responsible for a lack suitable adapers/tooling, or perhaps
there are other logistical issues involved?

I've heard about the specific forces that the bearings and so forth
would have to take as being a reason for a drill presses unsuitability
for milling operations, but it seems to me that a suitable gearing
adapter would negate much of these "lopsided" forces.(Probably at the
expense of a lot of power).

Also, I figure that since so many of you have been machining for so
many years, is there a possibilty that any bad drill press milling
experiences are at least in part a result of a lack of availability of
suitable adapters and tooling for this?

Anyway, in the meantime I will of course still take the advice of not
using a drill press for milling purposes, but only when it comes to
metals, because there shouldn't be as much of a problem with plastics
like Nylon or Delrin.(But I'll listen to opinions either way). :-)

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Drill presses built for side forces are called mill/drills. I don't know
what kind of adapter you are imagining that would turn a drill press into a
milling machine.

In article .com,
says...

... I am attempting to
get a handle on the *physical* reasons why so many here say that a
drill press shouldn't be adapted to mill use.

The foremost reason is physics.

Basically it has to do with friction.

Bear with me.

Drill presses mostly use a morse taper to mount the chuck to the
spindle. Morse tapers are ordinarily considered to be 'self holding'
which means the tangent of the taper angle is *smaller* than the
coefficient of friction for the materials involved. Here this
is of course steel on steel.

What this means is that for axial loads the taper will not come loose
from the socket.

You can drill all you want and the forces that try to extract the
taper shank of the drill chuck will not do so.

Note the preceeding explaination involves axial loads.

Milling imposes *radial* loads, or side loads to the taper. At this
point the relevant angle one compares with the friction coefficient
is no longer the taper angle.

Simply put, under radial (side) loads, morse tapers become self
releasing. The drill chuck arbor will self-extract from the
spindle under side loads.

The other reason one does not mill in a drill press (namely, the
absense of a draw bar to prevent the arbor from extracting) is that
it typically involves putting and end mill in a drill chuck.

Again the physical sciences rear their ugly heads and the problem
here is that the end mill is *harder* than the jaws of the drill
chuck. Aside from ruining it for precsion drilling work, an
end mill, no matter how tightly cranked down in the chuck, will
never be secure for extracting under axial loads.

So what to do? Buy a drill press and modify it to accept a draw
bar, and some kind of collet perhaps. By the time you are done
you could buy an R8 spindle mill-drill and be done with the
thing.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

jim rozen wrote:
In article .com,
says...

... I am attempting to
get a handle on the *physical* reasons why so many here say that a
drill press shouldn't be adapted to mill use.

The foremost reason is physics.

Basically it has to do with friction.

Bear with me.

Drill presses mostly use a morse taper to mount the chuck to the
spindle. Morse tapers are ordinarily considered to be 'self holding'
which means the tangent of the taper angle is *smaller* than the
coefficient of friction for the materials involved. Here this
is of course steel on steel.

What this means is that for axial loads the taper will not come loose
from the socket.

You can drill all you want and the forces that try to extract the
taper shank of the drill chuck will not do so.

Note the preceeding explaination involves axial loads.

Milling imposes *radial* loads, or side loads to the taper. At this
point the relevant angle one compares with the friction coefficient
is no longer the taper angle.

Simply put, under radial (side) loads, morse tapers become self
releasing. The drill chuck arbor will self-extract from the
spindle under side loads.

The other reason one does not mill in a drill press (namely, the
absense of a draw bar to prevent the arbor from extracting) is that
it typically involves putting and end mill in a drill chuck.

Again the physical sciences rear their ugly heads and the problem
here is that the end mill is *harder* than the jaws of the drill
chuck. Aside from ruining it for precsion drilling work, an
end mill, no matter how tightly cranked down in the chuck, will
never be secure for extracting under axial loads.

So what to do? Buy a drill press and modify it to accept a draw
bar, and some kind of collet perhaps. By the time you are done
you could buy an R8 spindle mill-drill and be done with the
thing.

So basically all necessary upgrades would actually make a drill a mill.
:-)

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

According to :
Can anyone elaborate on the differences between a Drill and a Mill as
far as the relative size, placement, and materials when it comes to the
chuck, spindle, quill, arbor, collet, bearings, gears, ect.?

In other words, it's obvious that a mill can move the tooling along
more than a single axis, unlike the drill press, but I am attempting to
get a handle on the *physical* reasons why so many here say that a
drill press shouldn't be adapted to mill use.

Start with the lack of rigidity of the drill press's frame. It
is designed only to support the workpiece against the axial forces of
drilling.

A milling machine has a *lot* more metal in the head, a more
rigid column (the best ones don't have round columns, and actually move
the *table* up and down with a leadscrew. Even those with round columns
have a larger column diameter, to minimize the twist under cutting loads.

The quill (which moves the spindle up and down for drilling type
operations) is larger in diameter, and a more precise fit in the
headstock, so it will not move sideways under cutting loads.

The mounting of the cutter to the spindle of a milling machine
is *not* via a drill chuck. A drill chuck is normally mounted via a
taper -- a mount not designed for side loads, as the drill chuck will
pop lose and start bouncing around the shop, spinning rapidly, and
carrying a sharp cutter with it.

And -- a normal drill chuck is not designed to grip the hardened
surface of an end mill shank. (An exception is the diamond grit jaws on
one of the more expensive Albrecht drill chucks -- designed for use in a
milling machine, and made with a standard milling machine taper (e.g.
#40 MTMB, or R8 collet format) shank -- *not* a taper such is used for
normal drill chucks.

The bearings in a drill press are designed to handle only the
axial (thrust) loads, not side loads.

If these physical reasons can be solved with only small manufacturing
changes in drill presses to allow them to become more suited for
milling, then does the conventional drill presses unsuitability have to
do with the bottom line of the manufacturers or lack of consumer
interest responsible for a lack suitable adapers/tooling, or perhaps
there are other logistical issues involved?

I've heard about the specific forces that the bearings and so forth
would have to take as being a reason for a drill presses unsuitability
for milling operations, but it seems to me that a suitable gearing
adapter would negate much of these "lopsided" forces.(Probably at the
expense of a lot of power).

Gear drives can increase the torque at the expense of speed. So
can belt drives. This is *not* the major weakness of a drill press when
used for milling.

Milling machines have a *lot* more steel and cast iron which go
into their makeup.

There are cheap small tabletop drill presses which can be easily
lifted with one hand. The weight of a tabletop milling machine of
similar size will probably require a two-hand lift.

Also, I figure that since so many of you have been machining for so
many years, is there a possibilty that any bad drill press milling
experiences are at least in part a result of a lack of availability of
suitable adapters and tooling for this?

A lack of suitable design for the purpose. A *first*
requirement for a drill press which is going to be used for milling is a
hollow spindle, so a drawbar can lock the end mill holder or collet into
the spindle -- to protect against popping the tool holder out from side
loads.

And *nobody* is going to make a drill press with such a spindle,
as it would cost more, and the machine's frame would still be inadequate
for the lateral and twisting loads which milling would apply to it.
Making a drill press with such a spindle would simply be leaving them
open to lawsuits, which all manufacturers would rather avoid at all
costs.

Note that a radial arm drill press *might* be solid enough in
some features so you could get away with it -- but none of these weigh
less than a minimal floor-standing milling machine, and there is no way
that you could get it up to your apartment.

Anyway, in the meantime I will of course still take the advice of not
using a drill press for milling purposes, but only when it comes to
metals, because there shouldn't be as much of a problem with plastics
like Nylon or Delrin.(But I'll listen to opinions either way). :-)

Of course there are problems using it for Nylon or Delrin. You
have done nothing to deal with the tendency of the chuck to pop off the
taper when subjected to side loads.

And there is still the tendency for the frame to wind up under
cutting loads, causing a deeper cut than you intended, and thus
increasing the chance that the chuck will pop off.

Yes -- it is *possible* to redesign and manufacture a drill
press for use as a milling machine -- and this is exactly what you will
get if you purchase a "mill drill". And -- it will be to heavy to get
up your stairs. (And -- it will still not have the workpiece size
ability of a milling machine so designed from scratch.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:21:37 +0000, (DoN.
Nichols) wrote:


Yes -- it is *possible* to redesign and manufacture a drill
press for use as a milling machine -- and this is exactly what you will
get if you purchase a "mill drill". And -- it will be to heavy to get
up your stairs. (And -- it will still not have the workpiece size
ability of a milling machine so designed from scratch.

Good Luck,
DoN.

A small mill-drill would be no problem to disassemble and move up a
residential staircase. No part of those is as bulky or heavy as,
say, a refrigerator.

A really small mill drill, like a Sherline or Taig, could be carried
up intact by one person.

According to Don Foreman :
On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:21:37 +0000, (DoN.
Nichols) wrote:


Yes -- it is *possible* to redesign and manufacture a drill
press for use as a milling machine -- and this is exactly what you will
get if you purchase a "mill drill". And -- it will be to heavy to get
up your stairs. (And -- it will still not have the workpiece size
ability of a milling machine so designed from scratch.

A small mill-drill would be no problem to disassemble and move up a
residential staircase. No part of those is as bulky or heavy as,
say, a refrigerator.

But he has multiple floors of narrow staircases, and he has
suggested that an appliance dolly will not be practical on those stairs.

But -- he has also said that he has managed to move some pinball
games up those stairs, so I don't really know.

A really small mill drill, like a Sherline or Taig, could be carried
up intact by one person.

Sure -- but I would consider those to be miniature milling
machines, not small mill drills. Same for the little mills which
Harbour Freight (among others) seems to offer.

But since he wants to do a lot of work with stainless steels,
I'm not at all sure that any of these would prove satisfactory. I
really think that he needs a place at ground floor level for his
machines -- perhaps one of the garages which can be rented.

A small mill would at least let him get some experience, which
would enable him to make a somewhat better choice next time around.
Perhaps even to choose to find somewhere else to live which would adapt
to the machine tools which he really needs. (But then again -- living
in New York (Staten Island) is a different kind of life -- and one not
well fitted to hobby metalworking.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:
According to Don Foreman :
On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:21:37 +0000, (DoN.
Nichols) wrote:


Yes -- it is *possible* to redesign and manufacture a drill
press for use as a milling machine -- and this is exactly what you will
get if you purchase a "mill drill". And -- it will be to heavy to get
up your stairs. (And -- it will still not have the workpiece size
ability of a milling machine so designed from scratch.

A small mill-drill would be no problem to disassemble and move up a
residential staircase. No part of those is as bulky or heavy as,
say, a refrigerator.

But he has multiple floors of narrow staircases, and he has
suggested that an appliance dolly will not be practical on those stairs.

But -- he has also said that he has managed to move some pinball
games up those stairs, so I don't really know.

A really small mill drill, like a Sherline or Taig, could be carried
up intact by one person.

Sure -- but I would consider those to be miniature milling
machines, not small mill drills. Same for the little mills which
Harbour Freight (among others) seems to offer.

But since he wants to do a lot of work with stainless steels,
I'm not at all sure that any of these would prove satisfactory. I
really think that he needs a place at ground floor level for his
machines -- perhaps one of the garages which can be rented.

A small mill would at least let him get some experience, which
would enable him to make a somewhat better choice next time around.
Perhaps even to choose to find somewhere else to live which would adapt
to the machine tools which he really needs. (But then again -- living
in New York (Staten Island) is a different kind of life -- and one not
well fitted to hobby metalworking.

I was going to pick up a hand truck, but realized that it would add to
the dimensional size of the video games I wanted to get up the stairs
and around the corners. These machines are as wide as 25 inches, as
deep as 34 inches, and over 6 feet tall and 350lbs.(These are maximum
numbers).

Ok, so perhaps what I need is a universal base that would perhaps
amount to three 100-150lbs sections before being bolted together, and
an attachable/detacheable dovetail column which may add another 150lbs.
To this would be added the swappable heavy duty "Mill head"(motor
housing and all containments). All this would ad up to attain the
needed ridgidity.(I can dream, can't I?).

I guess you're right about me getting a small mill for now. The most
extreme thing that I will have to do that would be beyond the
capability of the Rotabroach I just won on eBay is carve out a 4"
diameter hole that is 1/16" deep in stainless steel.(Not all the way
through).

If I can establish that I could get that done with something like a
Micro-Mark Mini-Mill, then I'd be set for now.(I'd of course need to
also get a machine for straight cutting 1/4" thick S.S.).

*** BTW, as far as a drill presses short-comings as a mill, if we apply
what was said to a lathe instead of a drill press? Would most of the
same issues apply?

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

According to :

[ ... ]

I guess you're right about me getting a small mill for now. The most
extreme thing that I will have to do that would be beyond the
capability of the Rotabroach I just won on eBay is carve out a 4"
diameter hole that is 1/16" deep in stainless steel.(Not all the way
through).

If I can establish that I could get that done with something like a
Micro-Mark Mini-Mill, then I'd be set for now.(I'd of course need to
also get a machine for straight cutting 1/4" thick S.S.).

Hmm ... the 4" diameter will probably call for slower spindle
speeds that the Micro-Mark can provide -- and more torque. Especially
so because you insist that stainless is your material of choice. I
really suggest that you experiment with something like 12L14 steel, and
compare how easy that is to machine to what is needed with stainless.

I'd be a *lot* happier if you were not insisting on stainless.
And I'm not sure *why* you insist on stainless. If it is inside what
you are making, it can be lightly coated with oil, and you will have no
problems with rust. If it has to be out where people can handle it,
then you might want stainless.

The Micro-Mark probably could make a 4" x 4" *square* pocket
fairly easily. Though you might have to make two or three passes with
Stainless to get 1/16" deep. To make a round one on a small machine,
you would be better off with a rotary table -- *if* the overall size of
the workpiece is small enough so the corners will clear the column as
it is being rotated.

*** BTW, as far as a drill presses short-comings as a mill, if we apply
what was said to a lathe instead of a drill press? Would most of the
same issues apply?

A lathe is a *lot* better as a mill than a drill press is. The
setup is awkward, and the travel is less than you would probably like,
but since the spindle is hollow, you can fit a drawbar to hold the
endmill in a collet (or in an endmill holder) in place. The lathe is
designed for lateral loads. Mostly, the problems are with the
orientation of the milling cutter to the work, and the added stuff
needed to give a vertical axis -- which is usually not as good as the
rest of the lathe.

That said -- model makers, in particular in England, do some
amazing milling in a lathe.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:
According to :
Can anyone elaborate on the differences between a Drill and a Mill as
far as the relative size, placement, and materials when it comes to the
chuck, spindle, quill, arbor, collet, bearings, gears, ect.?

In other words, it's obvious that a mill can move the tooling along
more than a single axis, unlike the drill press, but I am attempting to
get a handle on the *physical* reasons why so many here say that a
drill press shouldn't be adapted to mill use.

Start with the lack of rigidity of the drill press's frame. It
is designed only to support the workpiece against the axial forces of
drilling.

A milling machine has a *lot* more metal in the head, a more
rigid column (the best ones don't have round columns, and actually move
the *table* up and down with a leadscrew. Even those with round columns
have a larger column diameter, to minimize the twist under cutting loads.

The quill (which moves the spindle up and down for drilling type
operations) is larger in diameter, and a more precise fit in the
headstock, so it will not move sideways under cutting loads.

The mounting of the cutter to the spindle of a milling machine
is *not* via a drill chuck. A drill chuck is normally mounted via a
taper -- a mount not designed for side loads, as the drill chuck will
pop lose and start bouncing around the shop, spinning rapidly, and
carrying a sharp cutter with it.

And -- a normal drill chuck is not designed to grip the hardened
surface of an end mill shank. (An exception is the diamond grit jaws on
one of the more expensive Albrecht drill chucks -- designed for use in a
milling machine, and made with a standard milling machine taper (e.g.
#40 MTMB, or R8 collet format) shank -- *not* a taper such is used for
normal drill chucks.

The bearings in a drill press are designed to handle only the
axial (thrust) loads, not side loads.

If these physical reasons can be solved with only small manufacturing
changes in drill presses to allow them to become more suited for
milling, then does the conventional drill presses unsuitability have to
do with the bottom line of the manufacturers or lack of consumer
interest responsible for a lack suitable adapers/tooling, or perhaps
there are other logistical issues involved?

I've heard about the specific forces that the bearings and so forth
would have to take as being a reason for a drill presses unsuitability
for milling operations, but it seems to me that a suitable gearing
adapter would negate much of these "lopsided" forces.(Probably at the
expense of a lot of power).

Gear drives can increase the torque at the expense of speed. So
can belt drives. This is *not* the major weakness of a drill press when
used for milling.

Milling machines have a *lot* more steel and cast iron which go
into their makeup.

There are cheap small tabletop drill presses which can be easily
lifted with one hand. The weight of a tabletop milling machine of
similar size will probably require a two-hand lift.

Also, I figure that since so many of you have been machining for so
many years, is there a possibilty that any bad drill press milling
experiences are at least in part a result of a lack of availability of
suitable adapters and tooling for this?

A lack of suitable design for the purpose. A *first*
requirement for a drill press which is going to be used for milling is a
hollow spindle, so a drawbar can lock the end mill holder or collet into
the spindle -- to protect against popping the tool holder out from side
loads.

And *nobody* is going to make a drill press with such a spindle,
as it would cost more, and the machine's frame would still be inadequate
for the lateral and twisting loads which milling would apply to it.
Making a drill press with such a spindle would simply be leaving them
open to lawsuits, which all manufacturers would rather avoid at all
costs.

Note that a radial arm drill press *might* be solid enough in
some features so you could get away with it -- but none of these weigh
less than a minimal floor-standing milling machine, and there is no way
that you could get it up to your apartment.

Anyway, in the meantime I will of course still take the advice of not
using a drill press for milling purposes, but only when it comes to
metals, because there shouldn't be as much of a problem with plastics
like Nylon or Delrin.(But I'll listen to opinions either way). :-)

Of course there are problems using it for Nylon or Delrin. You
have done nothing to deal with the tendency of the chuck to pop off the
taper when subjected to side loads.

And there is still the tendency for the frame to wind up under
cutting loads, causing a deeper cut than you intended, and thus
increasing the chance that the chuck will pop off.

Yes -- it is *possible* to redesign and manufacture a drill
press for use as a milling machine -- and this is exactly what you will
get if you purchase a "mill drill". And -- it will be to heavy to get
up your stairs. (And -- it will still not have the workpiece size
ability of a milling machine so designed from scratch.

To clarify what I said about the specific(radial) forces not friendly
to the conventional drill press, I was addressing the possibility of a
"gearbox" placed *after* the chuck that would negate these negative
forces to an extent.(That is why I said that it would result in the
loss of a lot of power, by virtue of being inefficient). This gearbox
would of course have to be made to "fit" the housing in the chuck area.
This would have the effect of distributing out the radial loads that
account for all the negative things you mentioned. But of course there
is still the ridgidity issue.

P.S: I haven't been able to find detailed plans on the internet, so if
anyone is aware of any illustrated info concerning the parts and
dimensions of these machines, and in particular the work tables(rotary
and otherwise), I'd appreciated it.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

snip
but I am attempting to
get a handle on the *physical* reasons why so many here say that a
drill press shouldn't be adapted to mill use.
snip
2 major problems:

(1) you have side load and interrupted cut on an end mill which a
drill press is not designed to take. At best the quill bearings
will get beaten out quickly. At worst, the end mill will slip in
the chuck, the chuck will come off the arbor, the arbor will com
out of the quill, generally at high speed.
(2) The lateral location of the drill press head is not rigid.
I.e. most drill presses are made so the drill press head and
table clamp to the column. Again, not a problem in drilling, and
in fact it may even be helpful to allow the drill to seek center.
Milling side loads will cause the head/table to shift resulting
in part/machine damage and possible operator injury.

If you are bound to try this, or have economic constraints, be
sure to keep everything as tight as possible, re tighten the
chuck frequently, use slow speeds and don't force anything. In
my not so humble opinion, it takes *MORE* skill and experience to
successfully mill with a drill press than a milling machine. Of
course, by the time you have acquired the necessary skill, you
wouldn't do it.

It still beats a file.

Uncle George

Uncle George sez:

" It still beats a file."

Perhaps someone should have expounded on the method of "milling" whereby one
chain drills an outline of the desired part and then does final shaping with
files. I'd be a lot safer than trying to mill on a drill press. Supposedly
there is a gun factory in one of the "Stans" (packy I think) where they
produce modern-type firearms with only files. It must be a real bitch to
bore and then cut rifling. Those stanny dudes are very innovative, though.

Bob Swinney


"F. George McDuffee" wrote in message
...
snip
but I am attempting to
get a handle on the *physical* reasons why so many here say that a
drill press shouldn't be adapted to mill use.
snip
2 major problems:

(1) you have side load and interrupted cut on an end mill which a
drill press is not designed to take. At best the quill bearings
will get beaten out quickly. At worst, the end mill will slip in
the chuck, the chuck will come off the arbor, the arbor will com
out of the quill, generally at high speed.
(2) The lateral location of the drill press head is not rigid.
I.e. most drill presses are made so the drill press head and
table clamp to the column. Again, not a problem in drilling, and
in fact it may even be helpful to allow the drill to seek center.
Milling side loads will cause the head/table to shift resulting
in part/machine damage and possible operator injury.

If you are bound to try this, or have economic constraints, be
sure to keep everything as tight as possible, re tighten the
chuck frequently, use slow speeds and don't force anything. In
my not so humble opinion, it takes *MORE* skill and experience to
successfully mill with a drill press than a milling machine. Of
course, by the time you have acquired the necessary skill, you
wouldn't do it.


Uncle George

On 14 Jan 2006 14:46:06 -0800, wrote:

Can anyone elaborate on the differences between a Drill and a Mill as
About 5,000 pounds
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Gerald Miller wrote:

On 14 Jan 2006 14:46:06 -0800, wrote:

Can anyone elaborate on the differences between a Drill and a Mill as
About 5,000 pounds
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Er, how about one of the HF/Sherline/Taig mills (they are real mills,
just small) vs. most any radial drill?

Pete C.