Im adding to my metal building & need to cut some 6x2" hollow steel
shipping rack beams
up to use for wall studs. Im thinking of getting a horizonal bandsaw
from either harbor freight
or one with swivel head from homier.com, each have a 6x4" capicity
which should be ok
but im wandering if it will really cut straight, I would like to use
my 14" chop saw but its to
small for this cut & im to cheap to get a real metal cutting bandsaw.

wrote:
Im adding to my metal building & need to cut some 6x2" hollow steel
shipping rack beams
up to use for wall studs. Im thinking of getting a horizonal bandsaw
from either harbor freight
or one with swivel head from homier.com, each have a 6x4" capicity
which should be ok
but im wandering if it will really cut straight, I would like to use
my 14" chop saw but its to
small for this cut & im to cheap to get a real metal cutting bandsaw.

Mine is older and abused, and I bought it used, but it cuts straight
enough that I haven't had to check it, much less tune it tune it. But
others report that after some time spent tuning they can repeatedly cut
thin wafers from 2" round stock with under .003 variance.

others report that after some time spent tuning they can repeatedly cut
thin wafers from 2" round stock with under .003 variance.


With a band saw?! OK, if you say so.....

Dave Lyon wrote:
others report that after some time spent tuning they can repeatedly cut
thin wafers from 2" round stock with under .003 variance.


With a band saw?! OK, if you say so.....



What they *don't* say is the wafers are shaped like a Pringles chip! ;^)

--
Fred R
________________
Drop TROU to email.

wrote:

Im adding to my metal building & need to cut some 6x2" hollow steel
shipping rack beams
up to use for wall studs. Im thinking of getting a horizonal bandsaw
from either harbor freight
or one with swivel head from homier.com, each have a 6x4" capicity
which should be ok
but im wandering if it will really cut straight, I would like to use
my 14" chop saw but its to
small for this cut & im to cheap to get a real metal cutting bandsaw.

I've got one of the HF cheapies and without any tuning it cuts more that
straight enough to do the cut-clamp-weld routine. That's even without
going to the effort of getting a support stand to the exact level to
support the 12' of stock hanging out the back end, just using a regular
jack stand at the closest setting which is probably 1/4" off. I expect
that the HF saw will be more than sufficient for framing in a metal
building. Just pickup a good made-in-USA blade (I got an Olson for $15
at Tractor Supply) which will cut a lot faster than the blade the saw
comes with.

Pete C.

For cutting structural steel in your application: YES

On 5 Jan 2006 13:14:12 -0800, wrote:

Im adding to my metal building & need to cut some 6x2" hollow steel
shipping rack beams
up to use for wall studs. Im thinking of getting a horizonal bandsaw
from either harbor freight
or one with swivel head from homier.com, each have a 6x4" capicity
which should be ok
but im wandering if it will really cut straight, I would like to use
my 14" chop saw but its to
small for this cut & im to cheap to get a real metal cutting bandsaw.

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
wrote:

Im adding to my metal building & need to cut some 6x2" hollow steel
shipping rack beams
up to use for wall studs. Im thinking of getting a horizonal bandsaw
from either harbor freight
or one with swivel head from homier.com, each have a 6x4" capicity
which should be ok
but im wandering if it will really cut straight, I would like to use
my 14" chop saw but its to
small for this cut & im to cheap to get a real metal cutting bandsaw.

I've got one of the HF cheapies and without any tuning it cuts more that
straight enough to do the cut-clamp-weld routine. That's even without
going to the effort of getting a support stand to the exact level to
support the 12' of stock hanging out the back end, just using a regular
jack stand at the closest setting which is probably 1/4" off. I expect
that the HF saw will be more than sufficient for framing in a metal
building. Just pickup a good made-in-USA blade (I got an Olson for $15
at Tractor Supply) which will cut a lot faster than the blade the saw
comes with.

Pete C.

I've cut a LOT of tubing with my HF bandsaw. I fully agree with the part
about getting a good blade (I use Sterrett). As long as the blade is
reasonably sharp, the saw will cut reasonably straight, certainly straight
enough for welding. As the blade dulls, it starts to wander... For
relatively thin wall tubing, you need at least a 16 tpi blade...

Jerry

Jerry Foster wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
wrote:

Im adding to my metal building & need to cut some 6x2" hollow steel
shipping rack beams
up to use for wall studs. Im thinking of getting a horizonal bandsaw
from either harbor freight
or one with swivel head from homier.com, each have a 6x4" capicity
which should be ok
but im wandering if it will really cut straight, I would like to use
my 14" chop saw but its to
small for this cut & im to cheap to get a real metal cutting bandsaw.

I've got one of the HF cheapies and without any tuning it cuts more that
straight enough to do the cut-clamp-weld routine. That's even without
going to the effort of getting a support stand to the exact level to
support the 12' of stock hanging out the back end, just using a regular
jack stand at the closest setting which is probably 1/4" off. I expect
that the HF saw will be more than sufficient for framing in a metal
building. Just pickup a good made-in-USA blade (I got an Olson for $15
at Tractor Supply) which will cut a lot faster than the blade the saw
comes with.

Pete C.

I've cut a LOT of tubing with my HF bandsaw. I fully agree with the part
about getting a good blade (I use Sterrett). As long as the blade is
reasonably sharp, the saw will cut reasonably straight, certainly straight
enough for welding. As the blade dulls, it starts to wander... For
relatively thin wall tubing, you need at least a 16 tpi blade...

Jerry

Ive found that the recommended blade speeds tend to wear the blade
faster than it should when cutting steel. By running the blade at the
lowest speed they last for ever, but buy the best blade you can...
Matrix blades or equivilent.. I use starett blade too. M42


John

"John" wrote in message
...
Jerry Foster wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
wrote:

Im adding to my metal building & need to cut some 6x2" hollow steel
shipping rack beams
up to use for wall studs. Im thinking of getting a horizonal
bandsaw
from either harbor freight
or one with swivel head from homier.com, each have a 6x4" capicity
which should be ok
but im wandering if it will really cut straight, I would like to
use
my 14" chop saw but its to
small for this cut & im to cheap to get a real metal cutting
bandsaw.

I've got one of the HF cheapies and without any tuning it cuts more
that
straight enough to do the cut-clamp-weld routine. That's even without
going to the effort of getting a support stand to the exact level to
support the 12' of stock hanging out the back end, just using a
regular
jack stand at the closest setting which is probably 1/4" off. I expect
that the HF saw will be more than sufficient for framing in a metal
building. Just pickup a good made-in-USA blade (I got an Olson for $15
at Tractor Supply) which will cut a lot faster than the blade the saw
comes with.

Pete C.

I've cut a LOT of tubing with my HF bandsaw. I fully agree with the
part
about getting a good blade (I use Sterrett). As long as the blade is
reasonably sharp, the saw will cut reasonably straight, certainly
straight
enough for welding. As the blade dulls, it starts to wander... For
relatively thin wall tubing, you need at least a 16 tpi blade...

Jerry

Ive found that the recommended blade speeds tend to wear the blade
faster than it should when cutting steel. By running the blade at the
lowest speed they last for ever, but buy the best blade you can...
Matrix blades or equivilent.. I use starett blade too. M42


John
Another lesson I learned so long ago I kind of forgot about it. But, yes,
slower speed equals long blade life... And it cuts through the metal just
about as fast.

Jerry

John
Another lesson I learned so long ago I kind of forgot about it. But, yes,
slower speed equals long blade life... And it cuts through the metal just
about as fast.

Jerry

Thanks for the info, Homier was in town last night so I bought the
last 03111 swivel head
bandsaw they had, seems to be well made for a import. Any tips or
hints on these would
help. I also need to find a local source (Lowes, home depot, northern
tool?) for a good bimetal 64 1/2 " blade and a idea of the price for a
good brand.

wrote in message
ups.com...

Thanks for the info, Homier was in town last night so I bought the
last 03111 swivel head
bandsaw they had, seems to be well made for a import. Any tips or
hints on these would
help. I also need to find a local source (Lowes, home depot, northern
tool?) for a good bimetal 64 1/2 " blade and a idea of the price for a
good brand.

Put "wheelie" bars on the back. They tend to dump themselves rather aruptly
if you lift a bit too high.

I use MSC for a lot of stuff like that. they will have a good range of
blades. But specifically for band saw blades, I use Doall. They have
locations in many areas. I just call my closest Doall place
1-800-92DOALL and order their Imperial 101, 10 teeth. I don't like the
finer blades and have never stripped a tooth off of one of these blades.
These blades are about $20 each, but well worth it in my opinion.
The only down side to using an expensive blade is if someone else (a
kid?) comes into the shop and tries to cut off a hardened steel axle
shaft. Then you have a dull blade.
By the way, IMHO one of the biggest reasons for a band saw like this
cutting crooked is when the set gets stripped off of one side of the
teeth. The blade still feels sharp to the touch, but only one side is
cutting on the edge, so the blade moves over that way.

Pete Stanaitis
------------------------------------

wrote:
John

Another lesson I learned so long ago I kind of forgot about it. But, yes,
slower speed equals long blade life... And it cuts through the metal just
about as fast.

Jerry


Thanks for the info, Homier was in town last night so I bought the
last 03111 swivel head
bandsaw they had, seems to be well made for a import. Any tips or
hints on these would
help. I also need to find a local source (Lowes, home depot, northern
tool?) for a good bimetal 64 1/2 " blade and a idea of the price for a
good brand.