I have a 20X20 detached garage with no insulation (paneled inside .. no
sheetrock) and a lousy seal on the big door. I run a 4.5KW electric heater
when I want to be comfy. If it is 40F out there and I plug it in then I am
comfortably warm 60ish in about 15-20 min. In an hour I am taking off my
quilted flannel shirt I have anti fatigue mats on the floor that help
keep the feet warm. I do set it so it points at the area I will be working
in. It rarely gets below 30F during the day here.
I would just set the duct heater on the floor and fire it up to see if it
heats well enough to be made fancy.
Glenn
"Ignoramus24987" wrote in message
...
I have a approximately 20x20 ft attached garage. Sometimes I want to
make it warm quickly. Often I am there for relatively short periods of
time (because I am constantly interrupted).

I bought a 9.6 kW, 240V duct heater on ebay. It has a 24V control and
various overheat protections.

My plan is to enclose it into a welded frame and sheet metal (found a
few nice sheets in a hospital dumpster), add a fan to it and a 24V
control system using a thermostat. I also have a grill type thing that
I can use to protect the coils from little curious fingers and
flammables.

My idea is to make something relatively compact (say 2x2x1.5 ft), that
I would set on the floor, turn on and get the garage warm in a few
minutes rather than wait for a long time. I would save some
electricity by only heating the garage when I need it, rather than
warming it up "just in case".

What I am looking for is some feedback on safety and such.

i

On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 00:37:36 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Glenn" quickly quoth:

I have a 20X20 detached garage with no insulation (paneled inside .. no

I noticed that when I broke the icicle off my nose as I was leaving
there last week, Glenn.

sheetrock) and a lousy seal on the big door. I run a 4.5KW electric heater
when I want to be comfy. If it is 40F out there and I plug it in then I am
comfortably warm 60ish in about 15-20 min. In an hour I am taking off my
quilted flannel shirt I have anti fatigue mats on the floor that help
keep the feet warm. I do set it so it points at the area I will be working
in. It rarely gets below 30F during the day here.
I would just set the duct heater on the floor and fire it up to see if it
heats well enough to be made fancy.

Garage door seal kits are $18 at bLowes and a handful of cans of spray
foam would seal up those hollow walls tout de suite, sir. Staple some
pink bats on the roof and you're a lot better off than you were, and
once the shop heats up, it'll stay there after that.

That reminds me that I need to drill holes and fill my own shop wall
(singular) with foam. It's 61F out there now while the rest of the
house is 69F. Also, if you staple a strip of poly over the garage door
hinge segments it'll keep that set of long holes plugged. I glued 2"
foam board in the wooden cutouts of my shop door and it helps.


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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 00:37:36 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Glenn" quickly quoth:

I have a 20X20 detached garage with no insulation (paneled inside .. no

I noticed that when I broke the icicle off my nose as I was leaving
there last week, Glenn.

Wust LOL

Garage door seal kits are $18 at bLowes and a handful of cans of spray
foam would seal up those hollow walls tout de suite, sir. Staple some
pink bats on the roof and you're a lot better off than you were, and
once the shop heats up, it'll stay there after that.

A replacement door is going to be my cure for that. The existing door is 30
years old and was rode hard and put away wet before I got to it. I managed
to get it so it goes up and down and got a lot of the sag out of it but it
is toast. An insulated door will help a bunch. As to the walls and
insulation .. first I have to be able to get to the walls The other
spring project is to extend the garage 16 Ft and move all the metal working
stuff into the new insulated part. Then with the old part cleared out some
I will attack the walls with proper insulation and walls. I have access to
cheap plywood so I will probably go with either 3/4 or 1 1/4" plywood for
the walls. Makes hanging things up nice and I won't knock holes in the
walls if I drop a hammer or sumpin. Then I have an A/C unit from a mobile
home that will go in and be ducted to both sides. The heat is harder for me
to endure than the cold .. I can always put on a shirt if it gets cold

That reminds me that I need to drill holes and fill my own shop wall
(singular) with foam. It's 61F out there now while the rest of the
house is 69F. Also, if you staple a strip of poly over the garage door
hinge segments it'll keep that set of long holes plugged. I glued 2"
foam board in the wooden cutouts of my shop door and it helps.


================================================== =========
Save the Endangered Bouillons from being cubed!
http://www.diversify.com/stees.html Hilarious T-shirts online
================================================== =========

On Mon, 2 Jan 2006 10:52:38 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Glenn" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 00:37:36 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Glenn" quickly quoth:

I have a 20X20 detached garage with no insulation (paneled inside .. no

I noticed that when I broke the icicle off my nose as I was leaving
there last week, Glenn.

Wust LOL

Hah! I'm no wuss, I'm simply a "recovering Californicator."


A replacement door is going to be my cure for that. The existing door is 30
years old and was rode hard and put away wet before I got to it. I managed
to get it so it goes up and down and got a lot of the sag out of it but it
is toast. An insulated door will help a bunch.

Verily. Don't forget to run batts on the inside of the roof, unless
you're planning on enclosing the ceiling.


As to the walls and
insulation .. first I have to be able to get to the walls The other

That's true. But what are fifty tons of iron to a macho guy like you?
Half an hour's worth of minor workout? g


spring project is to extend the garage 16 Ft and move all the metal working
stuff into the new insulated part. Then with the old part cleared out some
I will attack the walls with proper insulation and walls. I have access to

Cool! Which way, the opposite wall from the entry door? (North, I'm
guessing.)


cheap plywood so I will probably go with either 3/4 or 1 1/4" plywood for
the walls. Makes hanging things up nice and I won't knock holes in the
walls if I drop a hammer or sumpin. Then I have an A/C unit from a mobile
home that will go in and be ducted to both sides. The heat is harder for me
to endure than the cold .. I can always put on a shirt if it gets cold

Bravo. And if you need shirts, just go he
http://www.diversify.com/stees.html
or here
http://www.diversify.com/tees2.html
A lady at our local branch of the library just got 3 of the Fuzzy
Blue-Green Meat tees for xmas gifts, but the Clinton tees work
best as grease and swarf rags. heh, heh, heh


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