Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Old February 18th 19, 04:18 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes

replying to Dennis Turk, Roger wrote:
I have a Dalton Lathe 6 with a 3 jaw chuck marked "The D.E. Whiton Co." The
number 3 Jaw has three teeth
missing. Where might i get a replacement jaw? ( Chuck is 4" dia. )

--
for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...es-308297-.htm



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Old February 21st 19, 06:42 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes

On Sunday, February 17, 2019 at 11:18:05 PM UTC-5, Roger wrote:
replying to Dennis Turk, Roger wrote:
I have a Dalton Lathe 6 with a 3 jaw chuck marked "The D.E. Whiton Co." The
number 3 Jaw has three teeth
missing. Where might i get a replacement jaw? ( Chuck is 4" dia. )

--
for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...es-308297-.htm


Hello,

From what I can tell, these parts are not generally interchangeable. I have a Dalton 7" (number 6125) and the three jaw chuck that isn't running true (after 100 years, no surprise...) and have been looking around for jaws or chuck to replace it. Nothing I've found fits - even the 1.25" - 12 spindle thread seems to be bespoke. Let me know if you find something!
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Old February 21st 19, 10:59 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes


wrote in message
...
On Sunday, February 17, 2019 at 11:18:05 PM UTC-5, Roger wrote:
replying to Dennis Turk, Roger wrote:
I have a Dalton Lathe 6 with a 3 jaw chuck marked "The D.E. Whiton
Co." The
number 3 Jaw has three teeth
missing. Where might i get a replacement jaw? ( Chuck is 4" dia. )

--
for full context, visit
https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...es-308297-.htm


Hello,

From what I can tell, these parts are not generally interchangeable.
I have a Dalton 7" (number 6125) and the three jaw chuck that isn't
running true (after 100 years, no surprise...) and have been looking
around for jaws or chuck to replace it. Nothing I've found fits - even
the 1.25" - 12 spindle thread seems to be bespoke. Let me know if you
find something!

=============================

You buy a blank, unthreaded, chuck backplate and use the lathe to
thread it to fit the spindle. Then you match the front of the
backplate to the back of the new chuck.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page7.html

You could practice threading a pipe fitting before risking the
backplate.


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Old February 21st 19, 11:41 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes

On Thu, 21 Feb 2019 17:59:54 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Sunday, February 17, 2019 at 11:18:05 PM UTC-5, Roger wrote:
replying to Dennis Turk, Roger wrote:
I have a Dalton Lathe 6 with a 3 jaw chuck marked "The D.E. Whiton
Co." The
number 3 Jaw has three teeth
missing. Where might i get a replacement jaw? ( Chuck is 4" dia. )

--
for full context, visit
https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...es-308297-.htm


Hello,

From what I can tell, these parts are not generally interchangeable.
I have a Dalton 7" (number 6125) and the three jaw chuck that isn't
running true (after 100 years, no surprise...) and have been looking
around for jaws or chuck to replace it. Nothing I've found fits - even
the 1.25" - 12 spindle thread seems to be bespoke. Let me know if you
find something!

=============================

You buy a blank, unthreaded, chuck backplate and use the lathe to
thread it to fit the spindle. Then you match the front of the
backplate to the back of the new chuck.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page7.html

You could practice threading a pipe fitting before risking the
backplate.


Back when I was an apprentice boy no 3 jawed chuck was considered to
be perfectly centered and one always chucked up a larger piece of
stock to allow for a "truing cut" to ensure the work was running true.
Things shore have changed but a 4 jawed, independent chuck and a dial
indicator was the only method of ensuring that a work piece was
"centered".

--
Cheers,
John B.


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Old February 24th 19, 02:15 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes

On 2019-02-21, wrote:

[ ... ]

Hello,


From what I can tell, these parts are not generally interchangeable.
I have a Dalton 7" (number 6125) and the three jaw chuck that isn't
running true (after 100 years, no surprise...) and have been looking
around for jaws or chuck to replace it.


Hmm ... first find out where the runout is coming from. One
possible place in a 3-jaw (or the rare universal 4-jaw) is the scroll
plate. It normally is held on center by a boss into the center of the
plate, and over the years, the ID wears and allows the plate to shift
off center -- thus carrying the jaws with it.

To add to the fun -- if there are multiple key holes, the
direction of the offset depends on the key hole used for the last
tightening. Some chucks have a marker beside one of the (typically
three) key holes, and when new, this was the one which would give
minimum runout.

So -- take the back plate off (assuming that there is a separate
back plate) and whatever else is necessary to access the back of the
scroll plate.

Then clean it all with a reasonable grease solvent, and with the
jaws removed, see whether the scroll plate can be slid around a bit. If
so, slide it to one side, and at the point opposite the contact point,
get your index gages and find which one is the thickest that you can
slide into the gap.

Divide that thickness by two, and get some shim stock of that
thickness, and cut a piece long enough to wrap around the boss in the
chuck, and wide enough to match the thickness of the scroll place, and
put it in the gap between the boss and the scroll plate hub.

Once this is done, try each of the key holes to see which gives
the least runout. Hopefully, this is the one marked by the maker.

Using this one, tighten the jaws onto a ring -- ideally one made
to fit behind the gripping surface of the jaws -- and then mount a
toolpost grinder (or adapt a Dremel or the like to act as one) and
re-grind the inside end of the jaws until all three are clean fresh
grinding. At this point, you will probably have better centering at all
sizes with the reground jaws -- except if the scroll in the plate has
worn at a particular angle of setting, or has had the scroll teeth bent
by overtightening at a particular size. The wearing could be if it was
at one time used in production, almost always tightened on the same
diameter of stock. If that has happened, it really needs a new scroll
plate -- somewhat tricky to make, unless you have a universal mill with
an index head geared to the X-axis leadscrew.

Nothing I've found fits - even
the 1.25" - 12 spindle thread seems to be bespoke. Let me know if you
find something!


1.25" x 12TPI spindle suggests that you need to make your own
backplate for a new chuck, rather than trying to find one which you can
buy.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. |
http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---


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Old February 24th 19, 02:19 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes

On 2019-02-21, John B Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 21 Feb 2019 17:59:54 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


[ ... ]

You buy a blank, unthreaded, chuck backplate and use the lathe to
thread it to fit the spindle. Then you match the front of the
backplate to the back of the new chuck.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page7.html

You could practice threading a pipe fitting before risking the
backplate.


Back when I was an apprentice boy no 3 jawed chuck was considered to
be perfectly centered and one always chucked up a larger piece of
stock to allow for a "truing cut" to ensure the work was running true.
Things shore have changed but a 4 jawed, independent chuck and a dial
indicator was the only method of ensuring that a work piece was
"centered".


Absolutely! Though you can get fairly close for many purposes
with an "Adjust-Tru" style chuck.

Best to Re-True it each time you change the size of stock held
in the chuck.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
  #67   Report Post  
Old February 25th 19, 09:41 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes

Hi, my father owns a Dalton Lathe that he has owned for around 50 years and is now trying to identify the model. We cannot see any identification plates on the lathe at all. Would you be able to identify it from pictures? If you could send me an e-mail address, then I can We Transfer them to you.

Many thanks,

Nigel

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Old April 5th 19, 11:40 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes

On Friday, December 26, 2003 at 8:31:31 AM UTC-8, Dennis Turk wrote:
To all Dalton owners and people interested in Dalton equipment. My
name is Dennis Turk and I own seven Dalton lathes, one lot 3 and six
lot 4 machines. The range of age is before 1914 and to after 1925. I
do not use the lathes as they are for restoration and display.

There is a group of Dalton owners that share pictures information and
in some cases replacement parts. There is I believe 13 people in this
group. We are known as just the Dalton Gang.:-) Two of the people
live in England, as it seems Daltons ended up over there also.

There are no multi function machines in the group. The group is
comprised of one lot 2 lathe two lot 3 lathes sixteen lot 4 lathes and
one lot 6. The lot number is just in front of your serial number and
denotes the model. B-4 or B-6.

Not all lathes especially the early ones have model tags on them only
a lot #. We keep a record of all Lot and Serial numbers and this way
we can gestimate the approximate age or year of build for the lathes.

In this group there is also one very original peddle or foot powered
lathe that has the hand lever on the tailstock. Really interesting
machine. Devil to run though.

I would be interested in communicating with anyone that owns a Dalton
lathe for the purpose of tracking serial numbers and helping others
with problems with their lathes. There are a very small number of
replacement parts available. These are used but serviceable.

In some of the postings there was a question as to the age of Dalton
tool works. We know that Herbert Dalton started the company some time
before 1912 and it failed in the stock market crash of 1929. In 1930
Elecrolux purchased the property and built vacuum cleaners there

Thanks and I hope to hear form all Dalton owners.


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Old April 5th 19, 11:44 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes

On Friday, December 26, 2003 at 8:31:31 AM UTC-8, Dennis Turk wrote:
To all Dalton owners and people interested in Dalton equipment. My
name is Dennis Turk and I own seven Dalton lathes, one lot 3 and six
lot 4 machines. The range of age is before 1914 and to after 1925. I
do not use the lathes as they are for restoration and display.

There is a group of Dalton owners that share pictures information and
in some cases replacement parts. There is I believe 13 people in this
group. We are known as just the Dalton Gang.:-) Two of the people
live in England, as it seems Daltons ended up over there also.

There are no multi function machines in the group. The group is
comprised of one lot 2 lathe two lot 3 lathes sixteen lot 4 lathes and
one lot 6. The lot number is just in front of your serial number and
denotes the model. B-4 or B-6.

Not all lathes especially the early ones have model tags on them only
a lot #. We keep a record of all Lot and Serial numbers and this way
we can gestimate the approximate age or year of build for the lathes.

In this group there is also one very original peddle or foot powered
lathe that has the hand lever on the tailstock. Really interesting
machine. Devil to run though.

I would be interested in communicating with anyone that owns a Dalton
lathe for the purpose of tracking serial numbers and helping others
with problems with their lathes. There are a very small number of
replacement parts available. These are used but serviceable.

In some of the postings there was a question as to the age of Dalton
tool works. We know that Herbert Dalton started the company some time
before 1912 and it failed in the stock market crash of 1929. In 1930
Elecrolux purchased the property and built vacuum cleaners there

Thanks and I hope to hear form all Dalton owners.


Hi my name is Brian Denny, I bought a Dalton a while back, I believe it is a lot 4. It came to me without a tailstock and had been out side here in Oregon for a long time. I will eventually get to work on it. Anybody have a tailstock?
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Old June 5th 19, 12:18 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Dalton Lathes

replying to turnern67, ggloor wrote:
Hi Nigel,
On Daltons the model number is usually stamped on the right hand end of the
ways.

I would like to see any pictures you have:
https://www.polytechforum.com/img/6d




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