Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)

"Pete Bergstrom" insisted
but I'd just as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

How 'bout pipe warming tape? You could just wrap a section of the base or
table and let 'er run. The stuff comes both in bulk or already terminated
with a plug.

LLoyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Pete Bergstrom" insisted

but I'd just as soon use something cheap and ready-made.


How 'bout pipe warming tape? You could just wrap a section of the base or
table and let 'er run. The stuff comes both in bulk or already terminated
with a plug.

That might work very well for the colder temperatures. I used one of
these to keep my mother's well from freezing up. Several years without a
problem so far. The one I got had a thermostat that kicked in just above
freezing; maybe I can find one that I could control across the range of
dewpoints from season to season.

Thanks!
Pete

Waterbed heaters might work or a heating pad. You can get these at
thrift shops for next to free.

I ran into the same thing when I went back to Walmart for another
coffee cup warmer.

They now call these candle warmers to heat the aroma therapy
candles where flames are not allowed or where the soot given off
by the candle when it burns is objectionable.

Look in the Artsy-Fartsy section. As the clerk for a candle
warmer if you cant find one. Big notice on the package that
these are not to be used to warm food or beverage. This may be
why they aren't sold as coffee warmers anymore.

Uncle George

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 10:11:17 -0600, Pete Bergstrom
wrote:


Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)

F. George McDuffee wrote:
I ran into the same thing when I went back to Walmart for another
coffee cup warmer.

They now call these candle warmers to heat the aroma therapy
candles where flames are not allowed or where the soot given off
by the candle when it burns is objectionable.

Look in the Artsy-Fartsy section. As the clerk for a candle
warmer if you cant find one. Big notice on the package that
these are not to be used to warm food or beverage. This may be
why they aren't sold as coffee warmers anymore.

Aha! I'll go searching this weekend.

Thanks!!
Pete

Pete

A small space heater will keep the place dry. I got mne at COSTCO a few
uears ago. They have a thermostat that will allow it to be used as a
warmer. Perhaps a piece of plastic over your lathe and mill will help.
Bob AZ

Bob AZ wrote:
Pete

A small space heater will keep the place dry. I got mne at COSTCO a few
uears ago. They have a thermostat that will allow it to be used as a
warmer. Perhaps a piece of plastic over your lathe and mill will help.

Hmmm. Plastic would act as a water barrier and probably make it worse.
What about an electric blanket??

Bill

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 14:26:39 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Bob AZ wrote:
Pete

A small space heater will keep the place dry. I got mne at COSTCO a few
uears ago. They have a thermostat that will allow it to be used as a
warmer. Perhaps a piece of plastic over your lathe and mill will help.

Hmmm. Plastic would act as a water barrier and probably make it worse.
What about an electric blanket??

Bill

I put a plastic mattress bag over a lathe that was sitting on 4xs and
staked it down all round. It was a green house the next day..with
water standing on the lathe...not a good thing

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Pete Bergstrom wrote:

Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)

Cabella's, Bass Pro Shops, your local gun store and many other places
will have tubular heaters intended to warming gun safes to prevent
condensation and rust.

Pete C.

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
Pete Bergstrom wrote:

[snip]

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)

Cabella's, Bass Pro Shops, your local gun store and many other places
will have tubular heaters intended to warming gun safes to prevent
condensation and rust.

Pete C.

It's called a "Golden Rod". Here are some
http://www.sports4fan.com/boating/golden_rod.html

Steve.

Pete C. wrote:

Cabella's, Bass Pro Shops, your local gun store and many other places
will have tubular heaters intended to warming gun safes to prevent
condensation and rust.

Ah, it looks like a GoldenRod with an thermostatic circuit for on/off
control will do what I want. I might want to do a bit more on the
insulating side of my cover tarps, though.

Thanks!
Pete

Pete Bergstrom wrote:

Pete C. wrote:

Cabella's, Bass Pro Shops, your local gun store and many other places
will have tubular heaters intended to warming gun safes to prevent
condensation and rust.

Ah, it looks like a GoldenRod with an thermostatic circuit for on/off
control will do what I want. I might want to do a bit more on the
insulating side of my cover tarps, though.

Thanks!
Pete

Old blankets or sleeping bags work well for extra insulation. Perhaps
not the most attractive, but if you're not in the cold shop working it
shouldn't matter.

Pete C.

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 17:33:10 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:

Pete Bergstrom wrote:

Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)

Cabella's, Bass Pro Shops, your local gun store and many other places
will have tubular heaters intended to warming gun safes to prevent
condensation and rust.

Pete C.

Google "golden rod"

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 17:33:10 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:


Pete Bergstrom wrote:

Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)

Cabella's, Bass Pro Shops, your local gun store and many other places
will have tubular heaters intended to warming gun safes to prevent
condensation and rust.

Pete C.

That's an excellent suggestion
Another possibility would be the magnetic block heaters made for car &
truck engines. Stick one to the bottom of the cabinet.

Rex B

Pete Bergstrom wrote:
Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

These can not be used unless the coils are immersed in liquid
(otherwise they burn out) and besides you can not FULLY immerse them so
the duration of heat will be very short before you need to add liquid
or unplug them.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

I just picked-up a used Corona kerosene heater for my shop. It starts
and runs well and is independant of outside power. Although I like it
for my use I don't know what the economics will look like yet (compared
to electric or propane). Another good manufacturer is Kero-Sun.
The simple, lower hassel, solution would be one of those oil filled
electric heaters which look like an old time radiator; they never get
hot enough to ignite things that come their way. And they work great.

dennis
in nca

"rigger" wrote in message
oups.com...

Pete Bergstrom wrote:
Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem

[snip]

I just picked-up a used Corona kerosene heater for my shop. It starts
and runs well and is independant of outside power. Although I like it
for my use I don't know what the economics will look like yet (compared
to electric or propane). Another good manufacturer is Kero-Sun.
The simple, lower hassel, solution would be one of those oil filled
electric heaters which look like an old time radiator; they never get
hot enough to ignite things that come their way. And they work great.

dennis
in nca


First time I heated my shop with a kerosene heater I got surface rust all
over the place. Some folks replied that this is due to the chemicals
released when the kerosene is burned in an enclosed space. A nice man got
an almost new kerosene heater at my yard sale.

YMMV.

Steve.

It's not so much the chemicals as the water vapor that is added to the
air. For kerosene, the ratio is about 1:1, 1 gallon of kerosene burned =
1 gallon of water vapor in the air. Of course, if you use some impure
kerosene with high sulphur you will get sulphuric acid
vapor.................

SteveF wrote:

"rigger" wrote in message
oups.com...

Pete Bergstrom wrote:

Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem


[snip]


I just picked-up a used Corona kerosene heater for my shop. It starts
and runs well and is independant of outside power. Although I like it
for my use I don't know what the economics will look like yet (compared
to electric or propane). Another good manufacturer is Kero-Sun.
The simple, lower hassel, solution would be one of those oil filled
electric heaters which look like an old time radiator; they never get
hot enough to ignite things that come their way. And they work great.

dennis
in nca



First time I heated my shop with a kerosene heater I got surface rust all
over the place. Some folks replied that this is due to the chemicals
released when the kerosene is burned in an enclosed space. A nice man got
an almost new kerosene heater at my yard sale.

YMMV.

Steve.

RoyJ wrote:
It's not so much the chemicals as the water vapor that is added to the
air. For kerosene, the ratio is about 1:1, 1 gallon of kerosene burned =
1 gallon of water vapor in the air. Of course, if you use some impure
kerosene with high sulphur you will get sulphuric acid
vapor.................

SteveF wrote:

"rigger" wrote in message
oups.com...

Pete Bergstrom wrote:

Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem


[snip]


I just picked-up a used Corona kerosene heater for my shop. It starts
and runs well and is independant of outside power. Although I like it
for my use I don't know what the economics will look like yet (compared
to electric or propane). Another good manufacturer is Kero-Sun.
The simple, lower hassel, solution would be one of those oil filled
electric heaters which look like an old time radiator; they never get
hot enough to ignite things that come their way. And they work great.

dennis
in nca



First time I heated my shop with a kerosene heater I got surface rust all
over the place. Some folks replied that this is due to the chemicals
released when the kerosene is burned in an enclosed space. A nice man got
an almost new kerosene heater at my yard sale.

YMMV.

Steve.


Yep, the humidity in a closed shop must be a killer. I'm fortunate
I'll only need extra heat when I'm actually working and don't need to
run it at night.

dennis
in nca

rigger wrote:
Pete Bergstrom wrote:

Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.


These can not be used unless the coils are immersed in liquid
(otherwise they burn out) and besides you can not FULLY immerse them so
the duration of heat will be very short before you need to add liquid
or unplug them.

I was thinking of the ones where you set a coffee cup on the warmer
which sits on your desk. I'd turn a metal disk to sit on the warmer and
make good contact with the machine.

Thanks,
Pete

In article ,
says...

Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.


If you put a few large light bulbs in series they'll last
forever and not produce much light. Since the resistance of
the lamp filaments varies with temperature, you'd probably
have to do some experimenting with the number and/or
wattage of the lamps while monitoring the current in order
to hit your 25W target.

Ned Simmons

2 same wattage bulbs in series will run each bulb at half voltage and
1/4 wattage. Total string will run at half the wattage as one bulb. And
just a dim glow.

Same thing for a 240 volt heater. run it on 120 volts, gives 1/4 the
wattage and a MUCH lower surface temp. I was looking at using a 2' long,
240 volt baseboard heater for a dog house. Rated at 500 watts on 240,
derates to a much more reasonable 125 watts on 120 volts.

Ned Simmons wrote:

In article ,
says...

Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.



If you put a few large light bulbs in series they'll last
forever and not produce much light. Since the resistance of
the lamp filaments varies with temperature, you'd probably
have to do some experimenting with the number and/or
wattage of the lamps while monitoring the current in order
to hit your 25W target.

Ned Simmons

In article . net,
says...
2 same wattage bulbs in series will run each bulb at half voltage and
1/4 wattage. Total string will run at half the wattage as one bulb. And
just a dim glow.


Only to a very rough approximation. P=V^2/R and tungsten's resistance is
highly temperature dependent. For example, if at half voltage the
filament runs at 1200K (1700F), it's resistance will be approx 1/2 of
the resisistance at normal operating temperature and it'll run at 1/2 of
rated wattage.

Ned Simmons


Ned Simmons wrote:


If you put a few large light bulbs in series they'll last
forever and not produce much light. Since the resistance of
the lamp filaments varies with temperature, you'd probably
have to do some experimenting with the number and/or
wattage of the lamps while monitoring the current in order
to hit your 25W target.

Ned Simmons

"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...
2 same wattage bulbs in series will run each bulb at half voltage and 1/4
wattage. Total string will run at half the wattage as one bulb. And just a
dim glow.

No, not quite. Two bulbs in series do run each at half voltage, but because
their resistance is so much lower at 'barely warm' temperature, the total
current will be almost what it would be with one at full temp. Thus, the
power dissipation will be quite a lot higher than 1/4.

LLoyd

Go to the Goodwill, Savers, or other second-hand stores. Plenty of them
there - I haven't had to pay over $3 yet...


I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't seem
to be around anymore.

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 10:11:17 -0600, Pete Bergstrom
wrote:


Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Hey Pete,

I don't think there is much you can do "for free". You'll have to
spend something, no matter what you do.

And it doesn't really take much. The metal does not have to be
"warm", but just warmer that the dew point in the shop

Ceiling fans help considerably. Just left on, directed over the
machines, it will help a lot.

Cover the machines loosely with something that will hold some heat in,
like a blanket or cardboard box. Then put a light bulb underneath. If
you can put a thermostat (garage sale tops 5 bucks) in line with the
bulb. It will help, but note that most thermostat's won't "set" to
below 50 degrees or so.
If you do so, two hints.. use good "Rough Service" bulb(s),...and
either a "cord light dimmer" which cuts the lamp output to about 1/2,
or a lamp dimmer that allows even greater control.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Hey Pete,

I don't think there is much you can do "for free". You'll have to
spend something, no matter what you do.

Free isn't necessary. Safe and effective are my priorities.

And it doesn't really take much. The metal does not have to be
"warm", but just warmer that the dew point in the shop

Ceiling fans help considerably. Just left on, directed over the
machines, it will help a lot.

Cover the machines loosely with something that will hold some heat in,
like a blanket or cardboard box. Then put a light bulb underneath. If
you can put a thermostat (garage sale tops 5 bucks) in line with the
bulb. It will help, but note that most thermostat's won't "set" to
below 50 degrees or so.
If you do so, two hints.. use good "Rough Service" bulb(s),...and
either a "cord light dimmer" which cuts the lamp output to about 1/2,
or a lamp dimmer that allows even greater control.

Quartz-halogen lamps might fix the major problem I have, which is the
burnt-out bulb. It still has the "visible from outside" issue.

Thanks!
Pete

Pete Bergstrom wrote:

Hey Pete,

I don't think there is much you can do "for free". You'll have to
spend something, no matter what you do.

Free isn't necessary. Safe and effective are my priorities.

And it doesn't really take much. The metal does not have to be
"warm", but just warmer that the dew point in the shop

Ceiling fans help considerably. Just left on, directed over the
machines, it will help a lot.

Cover the machines loosely with something that will hold some heat in,
like a blanket or cardboard box. Then put a light bulb underneath. If
you can put a thermostat (garage sale tops 5 bucks) in line with the
bulb. It will help, but note that most thermostat's won't "set" to
below 50 degrees or so.
If you do so, two hints.. use good "Rough Service" bulb(s),...and
either a "cord light dimmer" which cuts the lamp output to about 1/2,
or a lamp dimmer that allows even greater control.

Quartz-halogen lamps might fix the major problem I have, which is the
burnt-out bulb. It still has the "visible from outside" issue.

Just remember that halogen lamps depend on running at a specific operating
temperature for their longevity--there's a chemical cycle going in the lamp
that redeposits the metal sputtered off the filament back onto it. Put
them on a dimmer and they run too cool for that cycle to work, so their
life is actually shortened by dimming.

Thanks!
Pete

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

In article ,
Pete Bergstrom wrote:

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Farm store - heater that screws into light socket (but unlike a light
bulb, does not burn out, or visibly glow).

Farm store - poultry waterer heater (heater that sits under poultry
waterer to keep it from freezing).

Pet store - "hot rock" for reptiles.

Household/closet store - "closet heater rod" - low temp heater to keep
the closet from getting mouldy.

And finally, the best suggestion of all (expensive, though):

Rip out the slab, put in insulation, put in radiant tubing, pour a new
slab, insulate the rest of the shop, run the radiant heat in the floor
to keep the machines warm, and crank it up half a day before you go to
use them, rather than letting them sit idle all winter...

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Ecnerwal wrote:
In article ,
Pete Bergstrom wrote:


Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.


Farm store - heater that screws into light socket (but unlike a light
bulb, does not burn out, or visibly glow).

This sounds like a winner.

Farm store - poultry waterer heater (heater that sits under poultry
waterer to keep it from freezing).

Pet store - "hot rock" for reptiles.

Household/closet store - "closet heater rod" - low temp heater to keep
the closet from getting mouldy.

And finally, the best suggestion of all (expensive, though):

Rip out the slab, put in insulation, put in radiant tubing, pour a new
slab, insulate the rest of the shop, run the radiant heat in the floor
to keep the machines warm, and crank it up half a day before you go to
use them, rather than letting them sit idle all winter...

I'm going in that direction; hopefully will get it done next summer.
I've rebuilt my garage over the last 3 summers and the final parts of
the project are a new floor and door.

Thanks!!
Pete

Ecnerwal wrote:
In article ,
Pete Bergstrom wrote:



Farm store - heater that screws into light socket (but unlike a light
bulb, does not burn out, or visibly glow).

Farm store - poultry waterer heater (heater that sits under poultry
waterer to keep it from freezing).

Pet store - "hot rock" for reptiles.

Household/closet store - "closet heater rod" - low temp heater to keep
the closet from getting mouldy.


How about salvaging the hotplate from a bunch of Goodwill coffee
makers? Their only job is to keep the pot hot.


technomaNge

--
I listen to Rush and Sean on
http://www.wabcradio.com/listenlive.asp
daily. You should try it.

Don't know your situation, but my shop is an uninsulated, unheated
downstairs 2 car garage. I just installed a vent in the forced-air heat
duct in the ceiling to warm the shop with furnace operation. The garage
doors don't seal at all, but my machines don't rust, even the ones
situated near the doors.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Pete Bergstrom wrote:


Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

JR North wrote:
Don't know your situation, but my shop is an uninsulated, unheated
downstairs 2 car garage. I just installed a vent in the forced-air heat
duct in the ceiling to warm the shop with furnace operation. The garage
doors don't seal at all, but my machines don't rust, even the ones
situated near the doors.

My garage is detached; if it were attached I'd plumb another water line
from the furnace and give the machines each an nice little hot water
radiator.

I don't think I'm ready for my wife's eyebrows to hit the stratosphere
over this idea, though.

Thanks!
Pete

On Mon, 05 Dec 2005 09:34:45 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Pete
Bergstrom quickly quoth:

JR North wrote:
Don't know your situation, but my shop is an uninsulated, unheated
downstairs 2 car garage. I just installed a vent in the forced-air heat
duct in the ceiling to warm the shop with furnace operation. The garage
doors don't seal at all, but my machines don't rust, even the ones
situated near the doors.

My garage is detached; if it were attached I'd plumb another water line
from the furnace and give the machines each an nice little hot water
radiator.

I don't think I'm ready for my wife's eyebrows to hit the stratosphere
over this idea, though.

Build thin plywood boxes over the machines and put a 60w lamp under
each. That should keep things toasty enough. It's enough to keep all
your paints from freezing. Even cardboard might do it if you like that
lovely "homeless" look in your shop.

"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming

Make it step 1 of a solar or deep ground natural heater to pre-heat...
Don't have the whole plan - just step 1. :-)

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Pete Bergstrom wrote:
JR North wrote:

Don't know your situation, but my shop is an uninsulated, unheated
downstairs 2 car garage. I just installed a vent in the forced-air
heat duct in the ceiling to warm the shop with furnace operation. The
garage doors don't seal at all, but my machines don't rust, even the
ones situated near the doors.


My garage is detached; if it were attached I'd plumb another water line
from the furnace and give the machines each an nice little hot water
radiator.

I don't think I'm ready for my wife's eyebrows to hit the stratosphere
over this idea, though.

Thanks!
Pete

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why not just use 220V lamps - they will put out a dull yellow light
and will last virtually forever (the ratio of life/rated life of a
lamp is proportional to the 13th power of the voltage ratio, so cut
the volts in half and your bulb will outlast you by a long shot)



On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 10:11:17 -0600, Pete Bergstrom
wrote:


Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)
Bill

www.wbnoble.com

to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com

Pete Bergstrom wrote:


Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)

Paste wax works good on woodworking tools.

Wes S
--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Alpha Charlie Echo Golf Romeo Oscar Paul dot Charlie Charlie
Lycos address is a spam trap.

wrote:
Paste wax works good on woodworking tools.

Thanks, I've oiled all surfaces but the humidity still reaches some I
can't get to. More so than woodworking tools, these machines depend on
precision sliding surfaces.

I do wax my woodworking tools, whether in the house or in the garage,
though.

Pete

Industrial switchboards in humid countries often
have small strip heaters that keep the switchboard
warmer than the wet bulb temperature so that no
condensation will form in them . These are flat
strips with tabs on them so they can be screwed to
the inside of the cabinet. If I remember
correctly, they were about 35 watts, so a couple
of them attached in strategic places might do the
job nicely. Try an industrial electrical supply
for them

Tom


"Pete Bergstrom" wrote in
message ...

Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my
mill and lathe over the cold period when I don't
use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light
bulbs burn out and even when working they make a
nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's
something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which
I've read will do something similar as they put
out about 25 watts of heat. They don't seem to
be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's
Workshop issue from a few years ago that has a
DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 10:11:17 -0600, Pete Bergstrom
wrote:


Last winter I used lamps to slightly warm my mill and lathe over the
cold period when I don't use the shop (to keep the condensation problem
down). I'm doing that right now, but the light bulbs burn out and even
when working they make a nice glow that escapes the garage, probably
alerting the up-to-no-good-types that there's something of value in there.

I've been looking for coffee-cup warmers, which I've read will do
something similar as they put out about 25 watts of heat. They don't
seem to be around anymore.

Any other suggestions? I have a Model Engineer's Workshop issue from a
few years ago that has a DIY thermostat and heater project, but I'd just
as soon use something cheap and ready-made.

Thanks,
Pete (in St. Paul, MN)

Ax Man in Fridley, maybe in St. Paul as well, usually has some
heaters for under 2 bux. They look like fiberglass rope maybe 18"
long, talking from memory here. I think they're about 50 watts
running on 110 volt house current.

If you want radiant heat, use 300-watt quartz-halogen tubes (very
cheap at Menards) cranked way down to dim orange with an ordinary lamp
dimmer. They'll run about forever that way.