A temperature controller I want to buy has a 2A EMR output.
Can anyone explain me what relay I would need?

I am building Heat Treat oven(220V temp. up to 2200F)

Thanks,
Alex

Do you have the manual ? or can get a pdf off a web ?

It might mean 2 amp 'electro-motive' relay or else.
You need to find out if it is a dry or wet output - e.g does it supply voltage
and if so - what voltage. If dry, the contacts are thrown - you supply supply
and the relay coil and sink. This is often done when the relay is far away.

Remember surge currents - currents of 10x value can occur when the windings are
cool.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:
A temperature controller I want to buy has a 2A EMR output.
Can anyone explain me what relay I would need?

I am building Heat Treat oven(220V temp. up to 2200F)

Thanks,
Alex


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Here is the link, model CN3001:
http://www.omega.com/Temperature/pdf/CN3000.pdf

is this one dry or wet?

Thanks,
Alex


Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Do you have the manual ? or can get a pdf off a web ?

It might mean 2 amp 'electro-motive' relay or else.
You need to find out if it is a dry or wet output - e.g does it supply
voltage
and if so - what voltage. If dry, the contacts are thrown - you supply
supply
and the relay coil and sink. This is often done when the relay is far
away.

Remember surge currents - currents of 10x value can occur when the
windings are
cool.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

A temperature controller I want to buy has a 2A EMR output.
Can anyone explain me what relay I would need?

I am building Heat Treat oven(220V temp. up to 2200F)

Thanks,
Alex


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For a heat treating oven you want to use a solid state relay (ssr) .
When your oven reaches its setpoint the controler cuts on and off every
few seconds to maintain the temp.If you use a contactor you will hear
it clicking on and off hundreds of times an hour ,its just not made for
your setup .
Here is a picture of the controler and ssr relay I use on my homemade
heatreating oven.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...ce-control.jpg

Tim,

do you mind telling me what exactly control and relay you used?

Thanks,
Alex

tim wrote:
For a heat treating oven you want to use a solid state relay (ssr) .
When your oven reaches its setpoint the controler cuts on and off every
few seconds to maintain the temp.If you use a contactor you will hear
it clicking on and off hundreds of times an hour ,its just not made for
your setup .
Here is a picture of the controler and ssr relay I use on my homemade
heatreating oven.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/_200...ce-control.jpg

Hello Alex here are some links for the stuff you will need for
cotroling your oven.
Fuzzy logic controler with pluse output to control for solid state
relay
type K thomocouple
solid state relay
This is the same setup I have and it will hold the temp. within 2 deg.
What kind of heating element ar you going to use?
If you have more questions just ask.
Tim Kallam

http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/pr...=&lstBool=true
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/pr...sku=&sel=&pfx=
http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/t...m&Title=Search
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/pr...=&lstBool=true

It looks like you found your solution - I'd do the SSR - from Omega or another -
and it drives another power module SSR outside of the box. The outside one is the
high current one that matches the load and voltages needed...

The one inside protects the expensive box.

for the mechanical relays - look at this pdf - they relay contacts sets for form A and C...
http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/134.pdf

And they look like dry contacts - e.g. nothing applied to either.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:
Here is the link, model CN3001:
http://www.omega.com/Temperature/pdf/CN3000.pdf

is this one dry or wet?

Thanks,
Alex


Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

Do you have the manual ? or can get a pdf off a web ?

It might mean 2 amp 'electro-motive' relay or else.
You need to find out if it is a dry or wet output - e.g does it supply
voltage
and if so - what voltage. If dry, the contacts are thrown - you
supply supply
and the relay coil and sink. This is often done when the relay is far
away.

Remember surge currents - currents of 10x value can occur when the
windings are
cool.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

A temperature controller I want to buy has a 2A EMR output.
Can anyone explain me what relay I would need?

I am building Heat Treat oven(220V temp. up to 2200F)

Thanks,
Alex


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You mean mechanical relay will be connected directly to Omega controller and this
mechanical relay will drive SSR that actually turn on/off power to the heating coil?

Thanks,
Alex

Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
It looks like you found your solution - I'd do the SSR - from Omega or
another -
and it drives another power module SSR outside of the box. The outside
one is the
high current one that matches the load and voltages needed...

The one inside protects the expensive box.

for the mechanical relays - look at this pdf - they relay contacts sets
for form A and C...
http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/134.pdf

And they look like dry contacts - e.g. nothing applied to either.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

Here is the link, model CN3001:
http://www.omega.com/Temperature/pdf/CN3000.pdf

is this one dry or wet?

Thanks,
Alex


Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

Do you have the manual ? or can get a pdf off a web ?

It might mean 2 amp 'electro-motive' relay or else.
You need to find out if it is a dry or wet output - e.g does it
supply voltage
and if so - what voltage. If dry, the contacts are thrown - you
supply supply
and the relay coil and sink. This is often done when the relay is
far away.

Remember surge currents - currents of 10x value can occur when the
windings are
cool.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot
net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

A temperature controller I want to buy has a 2A EMR output.
Can anyone explain me what relay I would need?

I am building Heat Treat oven(220V temp. up to 2200F)

Thanks,
Alex


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I don't know about element yet. Can you recommend me one?
My oven will be 4"x4"x16" on inside. Temperature up to 2200F.
Powered by 220V.

Thanks,
Alex

tim wrote:
Hello Alex here are some links for the stuff you will need for
cotroling your oven.
Fuzzy logic controler with pluse output to control for solid state
relay
type K thomocouple
solid state relay
This is the same setup I have and it will hold the temp. within 2 deg.
What kind of heating element ar you going to use?
If you have more questions just ask.
Tim Kallam

http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/pr...=&lstBool=true
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/pr...sku=&sel=&pfx=
http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/t...m&Title=Search
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/pr...=&lstBool=true

Correct me if I am wrong:
mechanical relay is already INSIDE controller. I just connect EXTERNAL SSR to that
mechanical relay output.

Alex


Alex wrote:
You mean mechanical relay will be connected directly to Omega controller
and this mechanical relay will drive SSR that actually turn on/off power
to the heating coil?

Thanks,
Alex

Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

It looks like you found your solution - I'd do the SSR - from Omega or
another -
and it drives another power module SSR outside of the box. The
outside one is the
high current one that matches the load and voltages needed...

The one inside protects the expensive box.

for the mechanical relays - look at this pdf - they relay contacts
sets for form A and C...
http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/134.pdf

And they look like dry contacts - e.g. nothing applied to either.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

Here is the link, model CN3001:
http://www.omega.com/Temperature/pdf/CN3000.pdf

is this one dry or wet?

Thanks,
Alex


Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

Do you have the manual ? or can get a pdf off a web ?

It might mean 2 amp 'electro-motive' relay or else.
You need to find out if it is a dry or wet output - e.g does it
supply voltage
and if so - what voltage. If dry, the contacts are thrown - you
supply supply
and the relay coil and sink. This is often done when the relay is
far away.

Remember surge currents - currents of 10x value can occur when the
windings are
cool.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated
dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

A temperature controller I want to buy has a 2A EMR output.
Can anyone explain me what relay I would need?

I am building Heat Treat oven(220V temp. up to 2200F)

Thanks,
Alex


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120,000+ Newsgroups
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No No.

It could if you want - but the guys here say click click... The pdf file
shows you what you asked - the A form of relays and C type.
In the doc - it says it has 4 slots for option output boards - up to 4 at a time.
And they mentioned the type of relay contacts the boards had.

The SSR rely takes a voltage to drive it. The internal board that is optional
has a small SSR that is isolated and can drive (silent is nice) the otter BIG one
that handles 10 or 50 or 100 amp load.... from the small controlled signal it
does with a pull up to a voltage on one contact - that feeds (when controlled )
to the other that drives the input of the BIG one and the other terminal of the BIG
one goes to ground (of the pull up voltage supply). (e.g. a battery or a supply.).

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:
You mean mechanical relay will be connected directly to Omega controller
and this mechanical relay will drive SSR that actually turn on/off power
to the heating coil?

Thanks,
Alex

Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

It looks like you found your solution - I'd do the SSR - from Omega or
another -
and it drives another power module SSR outside of the box. The
outside one is the
high current one that matches the load and voltages needed...

The one inside protects the expensive box.

for the mechanical relays - look at this pdf - they relay contacts
sets for form A and C...
http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/134.pdf

And they look like dry contacts - e.g. nothing applied to either.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

Here is the link, model CN3001:
http://www.omega.com/Temperature/pdf/CN3000.pdf

is this one dry or wet?

Thanks,
Alex


Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

Do you have the manual ? or can get a pdf off a web ?

It might mean 2 amp 'electro-motive' relay or else.
You need to find out if it is a dry or wet output - e.g does it
supply voltage
and if so - what voltage. If dry, the contacts are thrown - you
supply supply
and the relay coil and sink. This is often done when the relay is
far away.

Remember surge currents - currents of 10x value can occur when the
windings are
cool.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated
dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

A temperature controller I want to buy has a 2A EMR output.
Can anyone explain me what relay I would need?

I am building Heat Treat oven(220V temp. up to 2200F)

Thanks,
Alex


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120,000+ Newsgroups
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Encryption =----



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Read the doc - it says you have to order 1-4 output boards.
One could be mechanical relay another their opto isolated SSR.
Then they have voltage source - (that could do it easily - program the voltage
needed on the output power SSR and forget other output boards)
and ....

Not knowing what your outside SSR needs - likely 5-12v that is for a TRUE - ?
then the voltage source is zero or 7v for off and on. If a new BIG one is needed
and it was a low voltage input - new values could be done...



Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:
Correct me if I am wrong:
mechanical relay is already INSIDE controller. I just connect EXTERNAL
SSR to that mechanical relay output.

Alex


Alex wrote:

You mean mechanical relay will be connected directly to Omega
controller and this mechanical relay will drive SSR that actually turn
on/off power to the heating coil?

Thanks,
Alex

Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

It looks like you found your solution - I'd do the SSR - from Omega
or another -
and it drives another power module SSR outside of the box. The
outside one is the
high current one that matches the load and voltages needed...

The one inside protects the expensive box.

for the mechanical relays - look at this pdf - they relay contacts
sets for form A and C...
http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/134.pdf

And they look like dry contacts - e.g. nothing applied to either.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot
net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

Here is the link, model CN3001:
http://www.omega.com/Temperature/pdf/CN3000.pdf

is this one dry or wet?

Thanks,
Alex


Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

Do you have the manual ? or can get a pdf off a web ?

It might mean 2 amp 'electro-motive' relay or else.
You need to find out if it is a dry or wet output - e.g does it
supply voltage
and if so - what voltage. If dry, the contacts are thrown - you
supply supply
and the relay coil and sink. This is often done when the relay is
far away.

Remember surge currents - currents of 10x value can occur when the
windings are
cool.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated
dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Alex wrote:

A temperature controller I want to buy has a 2A EMR output.
Can anyone explain me what relay I would need?

I am building Heat Treat oven(220V temp. up to 2200F)

Thanks,
Alex


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120,000+ Newsgroups
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On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 23:09:39 -0600, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:

Read the doc - it says you have to order 1-4 output boards.
One could be mechanical relay another their opto isolated SSR.
Then they have voltage source - (that could do it easily - program the voltage
needed on the output power SSR and forget other output boards)
and ....

Not knowing what your outside SSR needs - likely 5-12v that is for a TRUE - ?
then the voltage source is zero or 7v for off and on. If a new BIG one is needed
and it was a low voltage input - new values could be done...



Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

snip
What Martin said. Get the ssr output board. A mechanical relay has a
life rated in number of contact closures, maybe a couple hundred
thousand. With the controller in time proportional mode, with a time
interval of 2 seconds (for instance), a mechanical relay would hit
200,000 cycles in 4.6 days. The ssr will run indefinitely. By the
way, for the big external ssr, I'd get it rated for at least 2-3X your
load. The higher rating usually won't cost any more, and is likely to
last much longer. Also, ssr's are now available which fail open, much
to be preferred. In addition, when I'm using ssr's on 230V resistance
heaters, I use two and break both legs. This prevents continued
heating if the heater develops a partial ground.

I also put a mechanical relay in front of the power side of the
control relay and control it with another high temp alarm controller
with separate temperature measuring device, or failing that, an alarm
relay (sometimes already there, sometimes an option) in the main
temperature controller. The separate high temp controller is required
where I work. It can be a much cheaper simple on-off controller. I
usually series an on-off switch with the high temp controller output
to the mechanical relay. The on-off switch must be switched on to
enable the heater and allow the mechanical relay to pull in.

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

Pete Keillor

In article ,
says...

What Martin said. Get the ssr output board. A mechanical relay has a
life rated in number of contact closures, maybe a couple hundred
thousand. With the controller in time proportional mode, with a time
interval of 2 seconds (for instance), a mechanical relay would hit
200,000 cycles in 4.6 days.

That sounds like electrical life at full load. Mechanical
life at low current, which would be the case driving an
SSR, is typically in the tens of millions of cycles. For
example, IDEC RH series cube relays are rated for 50
million mechanical cycles. That'd be about 14000 hours with
a 2 sec cycle.

I also put a mechanical relay in front of the power side of the
control relay and control it with another high temp alarm controller
with separate temperature measuring device, or failing that, an alarm
relay (sometimes already there, sometimes an option) in the main
temperature controller. The separate high temp controller is required
where I work. It can be a much cheaper simple on-off controller.

Definitely a good idea. I'm furnace-less right now because
the cheesy controller on my little Thermolyne furnace
failed and burned out the elements.

To the OP - If you end up scrounging a controller that has
a relay output, I have a bunch of SSRs that have a self
powered input, so wouldn't require a controller with SSR
output or a separate power supply. The downside is that
they're only rated 15A @ 120VAC. But you're welcome to one
if you think it'll work for you.

Ned Simmons