A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

R.H. wrote:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/

496: For a shaft coupler, it is too short. So it is some kind of stop on
a shaft.
497: Blow torch. A "bernzmatic"?
498: A mass product. Wood related.
499: Very first prototype of a Russian back scratcher.
500: Flintstone, Outdoor usage.
501: Old tool. :-)

Nick

--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de

R.H. wrote:

A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob




From Rec.woodworking,

#496: keyed collar for a drive shaft, maybe holds a fan?
#497: blow torch or an old paint gun
#498: These hold in glass before you glaze them
#499: Back scratcher? Rug stretcher?
#500: Good for making sparks??
#501: Crevice tool? For cutting a potato in half?

Nick Müller wrote:

500: Flintstone, Outdoor usage.

Have to correct myself: IIRC, there is a stick (can't be seen on the
photo) with some kind of fabric beeing penetrated with gas. You whipe
the stick over the flintstone (round on top of photo) and ... fire!


Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de

"Mark and Kim Smith" wrote in message
...
R.H. wrote:

A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob



From Rec.woodworking,

#496: keyed collar for a drive shaft, maybe holds a fan?
Or a stop collar for a 1/4" drill bit, or any other 1/4" shaft
requiring a stop or lock.
#497: blow torch or an old paint gun
Definitely an old blowtorch.
#498: These hold in glass before you glaze them
They're called "glaziers points", these are a newer version of the
old flat triangle ones.
#499: Back scratcher? Rug stretcher?
#500: Good for making sparks??
#501: Crevice tool? For cutting a potato in half?

--
Nahmie
Stupidity is not considered a handicap, park elsewhere.

On Thu, 03 Nov 2005 09:47:21 GMT, "R.H." wrote:

,;A new set has just been posted:
,;
,;http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/

497 is a part of a blow torch. The "hook" and the channel are there so
one can hold the soldering iron in the flame.

496. Don't know, but fastens to a rotating shaft.
497. Gasoline blow torch. Still have one.
498. Window glass glazier's points.
The rest are unknown to me

Gripper, puller
sample block
sure looks familiar, but just won't come


(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"R.H." wrote in message
.. .
A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

R.H. wrote:
A new set has just been posted:
http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/
Rob

From RCM

496. A slotted, keyed collar
497. Blowtorch head
498. Glazier's points
499. ???
500. Pocket guage
501. Shingle spud
--
Gary Brady
Austin, TX
www.powdercoatoven.4t.com

R.H. wrote:
A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/

Surprisingly easy, for me, this time:

496. Drill depth stop
497. blowtorch
498. glaziers tacks, for holding window glass in.
499. I'm guessing it's another form of carpet puller?
500. magnesium fire starter
501. tanner's flensing tool of some sort?

--
Sandy

496. chisel bade holder for a small planer
497. gasoline blow torch
498. window glazing points
499. horse hoof scraping tool to clean out muck from shoe on horse
500. flint and steel for lighting fires
501. handle to lift an old dutch oven

"R.H." wrote in message
.. .
A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

On Thu, 03 Nov 2005 09:47:21 GMT, "R.H." wrote:

A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob



Wow, Rob, tricky this week.

The only one I know is that #500 is a firestarter (magnesium block and
sparker rod.) shave off a bit of the block into your tinder,then use
the back edge of your knife on the rod to strike sparks onto the
shavings.

Some guesses:
#501 could be the tool used to lift the burner lids on an old wood
stove.

#497 --an old blowtorch head?

Barb

Norman D. Crow wrote:

snip

Or a stop collar for a 1/4" drill bit, or any other 1/4" shaft
requiring a stop or lock.


snip


What's the key slot for?

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:

What's the key slot for?

A keyed drill. For drilling key-holes. Never heard of? :-)


Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO - YADRO - Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige

"R.H." writes:
A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob



#496 Depth stop collar for 1/4" drill bit.
#497 Blow Torch (Antique)
#498 Glazing points
#499 For lifting something?

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:
Norman D. Crow wrote:

snip

Or a stop collar for a 1/4" drill bit, or any other 1/4" shaft
requiring a stop or lock.


snip


What's the key slot for?

Not a key slot, but to allow the collar to collapse easier.

John Martin

In article , R.H.
wrote:

A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


496: Drill depth stop
497: Blow torch
498: Glazier points
501: Chisel of some kind

--
"I don't like dealing with people. I'd rather be back working in Human
Resources."

My wife, Oct 27 2005 after having to fill in at another department.

Looks like allthe ones I know are already answered.
I thought the metal in the "fire starter" was called
"Mischmetal". I don't think it is plain magnesium.

Other comments:
The blowtoarch is just like one I have.
Just last week I ran into the "new" glazier points
while looking for the old (triangle) style.
The clamp ring, I've seen many used in lots of places.

...lew...

On Fri, 04 Nov 2005 00:23:32 GMT, Lew Hartswick
wrote:


Looks like allthe ones I know are already answered.
I thought the metal in the "fire starter" was called
"Mischmetal". I don't think it is plain magnesium.

I don't know about that. When my husband gave me one, he said it was
magnesium, but neither he nor I are metallurgists. All I know is how
to use it.g

"John Martin" wrote in message
oups.com...

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:
Norman D. Crow wrote:

snip

Or a stop collar for a 1/4" drill bit, or any other 1/4" shaft
requiring a stop or lock.


snip


What's the key slot for?

Not a key slot, but to allow the collar to collapse easier.

John Martin

Thank you John.

--
Nahmie
Stupidity is not considered a handicap, park elsewhere.

According to R.H. :
A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/

Again -- posting in rec.crafts.metalworking.

496) A collar which slides onto a shaft, and then clamps there by
tightening the Allen head cap screw visible in the notch on the
top left. It closes the slot somewhat, tightening the collar
onto the shaft.

The function is to keep the shaft from sliding relative to the
bearings in which it is mounted. There will likely be one of
these on either side of the bearing assembly -- or a shoulder on
the shaft on the other side of the bearing assembly.

Is that a groove turned in the face, or is this a two-part one,
with a collar to adapt it to a smaller shaft than it was
originally designed for?

497) An old blowtorch -- of the style designed to heat a soldering
copper (which rests with its shank in the notch just above the
flame output end, and the shank near the handle goes in the
'C'-shaped rest.

It is either kerosene or gasoline fueled, and the tank has to be
hand-pumped to higher pressure before it is started. Once it is
going, the heat vaporizes fuel in the tank and maintains the
pressure.

498) These look sort of like the clips used to support shelves, but
I don't think that this is right. Perhaps they are designed to
serve a function similar to glazier's points, except that they
will survive more side pressure, thanks to the bent "legs"?

499) Nasty looking device. Obviously for pulling something tight,
but I'm not sure what. If there were only two rows of spikes, I
might think a leather drive belt for a machine tool, to be laced
to the other end through the same holes.

500) You've made it half-way to 1000 now!

I think that this is a fire starter. You scrape a knife blade
along the black rod, and it shoots out sparks to light tender.
I think that it is flint, but I'm not sure.

The metal frame may also be an alloy which is easy to light in
thin shavings, so you shave it first to make the shavings, and
then turn it around to generate the sparks to light it off.
Perhaps magnesium?

501) With a longer wood handle and a sharper edge, I might consider
it to be a "flensing" knife used in stripping the blubber off of
a whale carcass back in the old days of whaling.

As it is, I have no idea on this one.

Now to see what others have guessed,

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
"R.H." wrote:

A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

496. Gear needing dentures. Badly.
497. Yeah, my dentist has a couple.
498. The things that fall out of picture frames when you move.
499. Hard core paddle for unruly children of sadists.
500. Five hundred. You have a lot of stuff. Complex match.
501. Lever to scrape really old socks out of work boots.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

,;
,;497) An old blowtorch -- of the style designed to heat a soldering
,; copper (which rests with its shank in the notch just above the
,; flame output end, and the shank near the handle goes in the
,; 'C'-shaped rest.
,;
,; It is either kerosene or gasoline fueled, and the tank has to be
,; hand-pumped to higher pressure before it is started. Once it is
,; going, the heat vaporizes fuel in the tank and maintains the
,; pressure.

No. You had to man the air pump occasionally to maintain air pressure
to force the fuel through the nozzle AND supply oxygen to the fuel.
Actually the fuel entered the manifold as a liquid not vapor (see
starting procedure below). The fuel tank remains cool during
operation.

I agree to what it is but the ones I saw and used had a built-in
"basin" under the cast piece shown. When you started a cold torch you
bled gasoline (white gas not kerosene) into that basin and lit it in
order to heat up the manifold hot enough to vaporize the fuel. Once
heated the valve was opened and the flame kept the manifold hot enough
to vaporize the entering liquid fuel.

These critters weren't quite loud enough to require ear protection.

R.H. wrote:
A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

499. A bag hook

John Martin

John Martin wrote:
R.H. wrote:
A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

499. A bag hook


OUCH!!!

--
Fred R
________________
Drop TROU to email.

Four of the six have been answered correctly:




496. Stop collar for a drill bit

497. Blowtorch

498. Glazing points

499. Not sure about this one, my guess is that it was probably used to pull
or stretch some type of textile, but I haven't been able to confirm it.

500. Magnesium fire starter

501. No correct answers yet.


A few more photos and links have been posted on the answer page:

http://pzphotosan89vn.blogspot.com/



Rob

501. Shingle spud


The name of this tool contains two words, you've got the second word
correct.


Rob

R.H. wrote:
501. Shingle spud



The name of this tool contains two words, you've got the second word
correct.


Barking spud.

Kevin Gallimore

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

"axolotl" wrote in message
...
R.H. wrote:
501. Shingle spud



The name of this tool contains two words, you've got the second word
correct.


Barking spud.

Correct! Here a the link for this one from the answer page:

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/...ols01.htm#bark


Rob

501. Slater's tool?

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"R.H." wrote in message
.. .
A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob

On Thu, 03 Nov 2005 12:30:02 +0100, Nick Müller wrote:

Nick Müller wrote:

500: Flintstone, Outdoor usage.

Have to correct myself: IIRC, there is a stick (can't be seen on the
photo) with some kind of fabric beeing penetrated with gas. You whipe
the stick over the flintstone (round on top of photo) and ... fire!

No, you scratch off shreds with your knife, then spark it with your
knife to spark the shreds and the tider.

Saw it on TeeVee once. :-)

Cheers!
Rich

On Thu, 03 Nov 2005 09:47:21 GMT, "R.H." wrote:

A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob



496: Split shaft coupler. woodruff key goes into square portion of shaft
and coupler, bolt tightens coupler onto shaft.

497: Top of an old blowtorch

498: Window glazing points.

499: Looks like half of a pair of handles with which to pick something up.

500: Round bar on rectangular block with keychain chain attached. :-)

501: No clue




+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

In article ,
R.H. wrote:
Four of the six have been answered correctly:

501. No correct answers yet.

Same as 499, for operating a recessed switch.
--
There's no such thing as a free lunch, but certain accounting practices can
result in a fully-depreciated one.

Half right. The flame did tend to taper off as the pressure in the tank
decreased. The decrease was most rapid when starting from a full tank
as the space above the gasoline for air was minimal. Second pump up
took longer and lasted longer. The air pumped in by hand had little or
nothing to do with combustion. The stuff coming past the needle valve
was just gasoline until the tank was nearly empty. Combustion air was
drawn in through the vent holes beside the jet. The heat vaporized the
fuel but not in the tank. The passage below the main barrel was known
as the generator. Nomenclature and principal of operation identical
with the Coleman stove or lantern.

Bob Galloway

Unknown wrote:

,;
,;497) An old blowtorch -- of the style designed to heat a soldering
,; copper (which rests with its shank in the notch just above the
,; flame output end, and the shank near the handle goes in the
,; 'C'-shaped rest.
,;
,; It is either kerosene or gasoline fueled, and the tank has to be
,; hand-pumped to higher pressure before it is started. Once it is
,; going, the heat vaporizes fuel in the tank and maintains the
,; pressure.



No. You had to man the air pump occasionally to maintain air pressure
to force the fuel through the nozzle AND supply oxygen to the fuel.
Actually the fuel entered the manifold as a liquid not vapor (see
starting procedure below). The fuel tank remains cool during
operation.

I agree to what it is but the ones I saw and used had a built-in
"basin" under the cast piece shown. When you started a cold torch you
bled gasoline (white gas not kerosene) into that basin and lit it in
order to heat up the manifold hot enough to vaporize the fuel. Once
heated the valve was opened and the flame kept the manifold hot enough
to vaporize the entering liquid fuel.

These critters weren't quite loud enough to require ear protection.

Mark & Juanita wrote:
496: Split shaft coupler. woodruff key goes into square portion of shaft
and coupler, bolt tightens coupler onto shaft.


Sorry, but it's not a coupler. Couplers are longer, and have setscrews
for each shaft. This is a shaft collar. The slot has nothing to do
with a Woodruff key, but is there to allow the collar to collapse
easier.

John Martin

John Martin wrote:

The slot has nothing to do with a Woodruff key, but is there to allow the
collar to collapse easier.

But why is the slit so broad. A simple cut with the slitting saw would
have been enough.


Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO - YADRO - Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:
R.H. wrote:

A new set has just been posted:

http://puzzlephotos.blogspot.com/


Rob




From Rec.woodworking,

#496: keyed collar for a drive shaft, maybe holds a fan?
#497: blow torch or an old paint gun
#498: These hold in glass before you glaze them
#499: Back scratcher? Rug stretcher?
#500: Good for making sparks??

The rod is what you strike the back of your knife against to create the
spark, the block is of magnesium: shave it with your knife into your
tinder to get something that'll stay lit.

#501: Crevice tool? For cutting a potato in half?

Nick Müller wrote:
John Martin wrote:

The slot has nothing to do with a Woodruff key, but is there to allow the
collar to collapse easier.

But why is the slit so broad. A simple cut with the slitting saw would
have been enough.


Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO - YADRO - Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige

The wider the slit, the greater the collapse. So it will lock on a
shaft that is considerably undersize. Not every use of these collars
involves shafts ground to bearing fits.

John Martin

John Martin wrote:

The wider the slit, the greater the collapse. So it will lock on a
shaft that is considerably undersize. Not every use of these collars
involves shafts ground to bearing fits.

But if you collapse it to far, it will be permanently bent. Also, you
can't collapse it more than the gap on the side with the screw is. :-)

I really don't think that the key slot was made with much thinking.
Just think about the manufacturing-process:
You have a thick-walled tube, cut to length, drill and tap for locking
screw, then slit the open end _and_ cut the groove in one pass.
As that thing looks, they had to broach the groove as a further step. Or
are such tubes (drawn, with key slot) readily available?


Nick


--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO - YADRO - Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige

Nick Müller wrote:
John Martin wrote:

The wider the slit, the greater the collapse. So it will lock on a
shaft that is considerably undersize. Not every use of these collars
involves shafts ground to bearing fits.

But if you collapse it to far, it will be permanently bent. Also, you
can't collapse it more than the gap on the side with the screw is. :-)

I really don't think that the key slot was made with much thinking.
Just think about the manufacturing-process:
You have a thick-walled tube, cut to length, drill and tap for locking
screw, then slit the open end _and_ cut the groove in one pass.
As that thing looks, they had to broach the groove as a further step. Or
are such tubes (drawn, with key slot) readily available?


Nick

You're right, Nick - it's a key slot and has nothing to do with
expansion or contraction. I tried to fool you, but couldn't.

You're probably also right about broaching the slot. If I had to make
them, though, I think I'd just run the slitting cutter a little deeper
to cut the through slot and the shallow slot on the far side in one
pass. But there is undoubtedly a good reason for a separate broaching
operation.

I don't know what is readily available. I have seen long bushings for
holding boring bars that are similar but without any setscrews. Why
should it be available, though? The companies that make these make
them by the thousands, if not the millions. I'd guess they start with
solid bar stock. Maybe they slit it before they bore it and cut to
length.

John Martin


--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO - YADRO - Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige

John Martin wrote:

You're right, Nick - it's a key slot and has nothing to do with
expansion or contraction.

It's not that I want to be right, I want to understand why it is the way
it is. For that application, the key slot is quite odd, so I think the
usage is something different.


I tried to fool you, but couldn't.

Or maybe I'm still fooling you? :-)))


You're probably also right about broaching the slot. If I had to make
them, though, I think I'd just run the slitting cutter a little deeper
to cut the through slot and the shallow slot on the far side in one
pass.

ACK, that's what I meant.


But there is undoubtedly a good reason for a separate broaching
operation.

That's what I would like to know.


Maybe they slit it before they bore it and cut to length.

Slitting before boring would not be very clever.


Enjoy,
Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO - YADRO - Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige