I bought a scroll saw to cut some 3/16" 360 alloy brass. I haven't had much
luck with the 15tpi blades I bought to go with it. My project is WR Smith's
skeleton clock. He uses a scroll saw to cut his frames; it shows it in his
book. Unfortunately, he doesn't mention what blade he uses. My scroll saw
can use pinned and plain 5" blades, so if anyone could point me in the right
direction I'd probably be able to use any blades suggested.

thanks,
Dave

Get some of the finest toothed blades you can find--probably could use some of
those spiral type all direction blades too.

NokNokMan wrote:

I bought a scroll saw to cut some 3/16" 360 alloy brass. I haven't had much
luck with the 15tpi blades I bought to go with it. My project is WR Smith's
skeleton clock. He uses a scroll saw to cut his frames; it shows it in his
book. Unfortunately, he doesn't mention what blade he uses. My scroll saw
can use pinned and plain 5" blades, so if anyone could point me in the right
direction I'd probably be able to use any blades suggested.

thanks,
Dave

NokNokMan wrote:

I bought a scroll saw to cut some 3/16" 360 alloy brass. I haven't had much
luck with the 15tpi blades I bought to go with it. My project is WR Smith's
skeleton clock. He uses a scroll saw to cut his frames; it shows it in his
book. Unfortunately, he doesn't mention what blade he uses. My scroll saw
can use pinned and plain 5" blades, so if anyone could point me in the right
direction I'd probably be able to use any blades suggested.

thanks,
Dave
i got what looks like a scroll saw, but its a jewelers saw and its got
very, very fine teeth on the blade.. got it at a hobby shop it is
suppose ot be used in jewelry making stuff... to cut metals......
thats probably what you need the scroll saws i have have teeth about 5
times the size of the teeth on these paper thin blades.....
that probably whey it is not working......

"NokNokMan" wrote in message .net...
I bought a scroll saw to cut some 3/16" 360 alloy brass. I haven't had much
luck with the 15tpi blades I bought to go with it. My project is WR Smith's
skeleton clock. He uses a scroll saw to cut his frames; it shows it in his
book. Unfortunately, he doesn't mention what blade he uses. My scroll saw
can use pinned and plain 5" blades, so if anyone could point me in the right
direction I'd probably be able to use any blades suggested.

thanks,
Dave


Hi Dave, I have cut the frames of a large skeleton clock from 3/16"
brass & used some "Makita" blades part No. 722101-A. On the packet it
say's "These blades are designed for soft/hard woods, plywood,
plastics, etc." I decided that brass comes under "etc." & I can't get
metal cutting blades for the Makita scroll saw. The blades are 5"
pinned, & are 15 TPI. I broke about 6 blades cutting both frames, but
at about a buck each that was acceptable. I sprayed the cut line
liberally with W.D. 40. Hope this helps, Ian Sutherland.

You need a minimum of 2 teeth bearing on the thickness of the metal, preferablly
3--to keep it from taking too big a bite & breaking.

ian wrote:

"NokNokMan" wrote in message .net...
I bought a scroll saw to cut some 3/16" 360 alloy brass. I haven't had much
luck with the 15tpi blades I bought to go with it. My project is WR Smith's
skeleton clock. He uses a scroll saw to cut his frames; it shows it in his
book. Unfortunately, he doesn't mention what blade he uses. My scroll saw
can use pinned and plain 5" blades, so if anyone could point me in the right
direction I'd probably be able to use any blades suggested.

thanks,
Dave

Hi Dave, I have cut the frames of a large skeleton clock from 3/16"
brass & used some "Makita" blades part No. 722101-A. On the packet it
say's "These blades are designed for soft/hard woods, plywood,
plastics, etc." I decided that brass comes under "etc." & I can't get
metal cutting blades for the Makita scroll saw. The blades are 5"
pinned, & are 15 TPI. I broke about 6 blades cutting both frames, but
at about a buck each that was acceptable. I sprayed the cut line
liberally with W.D. 40. Hope this helps, Ian Sutherland.

Three teeth in a cut isn't good cutting procedures. You need to get blades
that are a lot finer so that there are more teeth in the cut and the cutting
goes smoothly. I'd recommend that you use at least a 30tpi blade. In
addition, those blades are rather flexible and will break if you stress them
too much.

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works evevery time it is tried!

Take a look halfway down the list at:

http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm

Aquiles Rubina
Lima, Peru

Fer Chrissake learn to undo the little catch at the b....oh. Sorry!
************************************************** ****************************************
Whenever you have to prove to yourself that you are
not something, you probably are.

Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music
Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email
!!
")
_/ )
( )
_//- \__/

the metalworking fret saw blades I have are sold in bundles of a dozen by
No.'s instead of tpi and sell for around $5/dozen. A rough guesstimate with
a screw pitch blade suggests 50 teeth per inch. They are very fine, you may
find them a real treat to use after trying at 15 tpi. Lee Valley used to
sell them but not any more . do some googling to find a supplier.

These are the same 5" blades used for piercing work. They can be used in a
scroll saw or fret saw frame. I never found it a time saver using a power
scroll saw for this work. I had an Excalibur for a while and while it was a
pretty good scroll saw, I don't really miss it. The better feel you have
doing it by hand + not spending half the time replacing broken blades might
even make it faster. If you are new to this, get an adjustable fret saw
frame, its easier to install the find blades, and make up a fret saw board
clamped to your bench with V cut out of it to rest the work on.

here, found a link
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...ARTNUM=813-064

Michael


"NokNokMan" wrote in message
. net...
I bought a scroll saw to cut some 3/16" 360 alloy brass. I haven't had
much
luck with the 15tpi blades I bought to go with it. My project is WR
Smith's
skeleton clock. He uses a scroll saw to cut his frames; it shows it in
his
book. Unfortunately, he doesn't mention what blade he uses. My scroll
saw
can use pinned and plain 5" blades, so if anyone could point me in the
right
direction I'd probably be able to use any blades suggested.

thanks,
Dave

On Thu, 23 Oct 2003 13:40:04 -0400, "Michael"
wrote:

the metalworking fret saw blades I have are sold in bundles of a dozen by
No.'s instead of tpi and sell for around $5/dozen. A rough guesstimate with
a screw pitch blade suggests 50 teeth per inch. They are very fine, you may
find them a real treat to use after trying at 15 tpi. Lee Valley used to
sell them but not any more . do some googling to find a supplier.

These are the same 5" blades used for piercing work. They can be used in a
scroll saw or fret saw frame. I never found it a time saver using a power
scroll saw for this work. I had an Excalibur for a while and while it was a
pretty good scroll saw, I don't really miss it. The better feel you have
doing it by hand + not spending half the time replacing broken blades might
even make it faster. If you are new to this, get an adjustable fret saw
frame, its easier to install the find blades, and make up a fret saw board
clamped to your bench with V cut out of it to rest the work on.

here, found a link
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...ARTNUM=813-064

Michael


"NokNokMan" wrote in message
.net...
I bought a scroll saw to cut some 3/16" 360 alloy brass. I haven't had
much
luck with the 15tpi blades I bought to go with it. My project is WR
Smith's
skeleton clock. He uses a scroll saw to cut his frames; it shows it in
his
book. Unfortunately, he doesn't mention what blade he uses. My scroll
saw
can use pinned and plain 5" blades, so if anyone could point me in the
right
direction I'd probably be able to use any blades suggested.

The only identification on my saw ( jig scroll or whatever you wish)
is a "dunlap" decal on the web of the over-arm; I paid $1.25 at a
church, men's club auction in 1971 for the bare, rusty machine; no
motor, no stand, no blades. All three sons learned about machine tools
on this saw - how much damage will it do to an adventurous five year
old. I moved from cut off coping saw blades to short bits of narrow
band saw blades to actual jig saw blades, sometimes even the mini
hacksaw blades.
When I got into miniatures, I decided to try jewelers blades; to this
end, I slowed it down with a smaller motor pulley and reduced the
blade tension with a weaker spring ( bad Idea - it needs more
tension). with these blades I have even cut 1/8" steel. I have never
tried the tungsten coated wire blades for cutting glass and ceramics,
but I sure have got my money's worth out of this, even considering the
motor salvaged from a worn out sump pump and a bit of scrap wood to
build a stand.
My approach to brass would be to try a fairly coarse blade and light
feed cutting dry.

Gerry :-)}
London, Canada