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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Problem notching pipe with floor drill press
This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch at
90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill press slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley (for the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to bind and for the drill press slip as well? |
#2
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"Fred" wrote in message ... This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch at 90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill press slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley (for the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to bind and for the drill press slip as well? Sounds like your pipe is not adequately secured. Are you trying to do it by holding the pipe with your hands? |
#3
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"ATP*" wrote in message ... "Fred" wrote in message ... This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch at 90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill press slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley (for the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to bind and for the drill press slip as well? Sounds like your pipe is not adequately secured. Are you trying to do it by holding the pipe with your hands? No, pipe is on a machine vice and I have three clamps holding that vice and one additional clamp holding down the top portion of the pipe to the vice. Looks like I have a little end play on the 2" hole saw and chuck combination. That's maybe the problem. I've adjusted the DP pulley tension and the slip went away, for now anyway. |
#4
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Probably starts out OK and binds as you getcloser to the middle of the
pipe? Standard hole saye have a tooth pitch that is a little course for the wall thickness of sched 40 pipe. There is a company--Sioux, I think, that makes hole saws with finer teeth. Not quite fine enough, IMO, but they work better. Fred wrote: This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch at 90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill press slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley (for the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to bind and for the drill press slip as well? |
#5
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Actually it binds at the beginning from the top to about 1/3 of the down
then its ok to 2/3 of the way down then I have to flip the pipe over and cut on the opposite side since the hole saw is not long enough and binding starts all over again. I do think your right about not having enough teeth on the saw. Thanks, I'll check Sioux out. "ed_h" wrote in message oups.com... Probably starts out OK and binds as you getcloser to the middle of the pipe? Standard hole saye have a tooth pitch that is a little course for the wall thickness of sched 40 pipe. There is a company--Sioux, I think, that makes hole saws with finer teeth. Not quite fine enough, IMO, but they work better. Fred wrote: This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch at 90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill press slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley (for the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to bind and for the drill press slip as well? |
#6
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Sounds like your setup isn't rigid enough and the hole saw is binding. Try
one of these, if setup right, you can cut through in one pass once the top piece of waste is cleared from hole saw. http://www.wttool.com/p/2800-0350?utm_id=24 Bruce "Fred" wrote in message ... Actually it binds at the beginning from the top to about 1/3 of the down then its ok to 2/3 of the way down then I have to flip the pipe over and cut on the opposite side since the hole saw is not long enough and binding starts all over again. I do think your right about not having enough teeth on the saw. Thanks, I'll check Sioux out. "ed_h" wrote in message oups.com... Probably starts out OK and binds as you getcloser to the middle of the pipe? Standard hole saye have a tooth pitch that is a little course for the wall thickness of sched 40 pipe. There is a company--Sioux, I think, that makes hole saws with finer teeth. Not quite fine enough, IMO, but they work better. Fred wrote: This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch at 90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill press slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley (for the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to bind and for the drill press slip as well? |
#7
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Bruce Johnstone wrote:
Sounds like your setup isn't rigid enough and the hole saw is binding. Try one of these, if setup right, you can cut through in one pass once the top piece of waste is cleared from hole saw. http://www.wttool.com/p/2800-0350?utm_id=24 Bruce "Fred" wrote in message ... Actually it binds at the beginning from the top to about 1/3 of the down then its ok to 2/3 of the way down then I have to flip the pipe over and cut on the opposite side since the hole saw is not long enough and binding starts all over again. I do think your right about not having enough teeth on the saw. Thanks, I'll check Sioux out. "ed_h" wrote in message oups.com... Probably starts out OK and binds as you getcloser to the middle of the pipe? Standard hole saye have a tooth pitch that is a little course for the wall thickness of sched 40 pipe. There is a company--Sioux, I think, that makes hole saws with finer teeth. Not quite fine enough, IMO, but they work better. Fred wrote: This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch at 90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill press slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley (for the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to bind and for the drill press slip as well? Is the saw locked rigidly to ther arbor? Most pin-drive saw arbors do not lock up solid. Starrett makes one that works well and isn't expensive. Catalogue number A17-38 Ken. |
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