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Fred
 
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Default Problem notching pipe with floor drill press

This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch at
90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In
notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I
encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill press
slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and
lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley (for
the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the
side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to bind
and for the drill press slip as well?


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ATP*
 
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"Fred" wrote in message
...
This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch
at 90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In
notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I
encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill
press slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed
rate and lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest
pulley (for the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride
high on the side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality
hole saw to bind and for the drill press slip as well?

Sounds like your pipe is not adequately secured. Are you trying to do it by
holding the pipe with your hands?


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Fred
 
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"ATP*" wrote in message ...

"Fred" wrote in message
...
This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch
at 90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In
notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I
encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill
press slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed
rate and lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest
pulley (for the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride
high on the side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality
hole saw to bind and for the drill press slip as well?

Sounds like your pipe is not adequately secured. Are you trying to do it
by holding the pipe with your hands?



No, pipe is on a machine vice and I have three clamps holding that vice and
one additional clamp holding down the top portion of the pipe to the vice.
Looks like I have a little end play on the 2" hole saw and chuck
combination. That's maybe the problem. I've adjusted the DP pulley tension
and the slip went away, for now anyway.


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ed_h
 
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Probably starts out OK and binds as you getcloser to the middle of the
pipe?

Standard hole saye have a tooth pitch that is a little course for the
wall thickness of sched 40 pipe. There is a company--Sioux, I think,
that makes hole saws with finer teeth. Not quite fine enough, IMO, but
they work better.


Fred wrote:
This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch at
90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In
notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I
encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill press
slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and
lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley (for
the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the
side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to bind
and for the drill press slip as well?


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Fred
 
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Actually it binds at the beginning from the top to about 1/3 of the down
then its ok to 2/3 of the way down then I have to flip the pipe over and cut
on the opposite side since the hole saw is not long enough and binding
starts all over again. I do think your right about not having enough teeth
on the saw. Thanks, I'll check Sioux out.


"ed_h" wrote in message
oups.com...
Probably starts out OK and binds as you getcloser to the middle of the
pipe?

Standard hole saye have a tooth pitch that is a little course for the
wall thickness of sched 40 pipe. There is a company--Sioux, I think,
that makes hole saws with finer teeth. Not quite fine enough, IMO, but
they work better.


Fred wrote:
This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight notch
at
90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In
notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I
encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill
press
slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate and
lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley
(for
the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on the
side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to
bind
and for the drill press slip as well?






  #6   Report Post  
Bruce Johnstone
 
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Sounds like your setup isn't rigid enough and the hole saw is binding. Try
one of these, if setup right, you can cut through in one pass once the top
piece of waste is cleared from hole saw.

http://www.wttool.com/p/2800-0350?utm_id=24

Bruce


"Fred" wrote in message
...
Actually it binds at the beginning from the top to about 1/3 of the down
then its ok to 2/3 of the way down then I have to flip the pipe over and
cut on the opposite side since the hole saw is not long enough and binding
starts all over again. I do think your right about not having enough teeth
on the saw. Thanks, I'll check Sioux out.


"ed_h" wrote in message
oups.com...
Probably starts out OK and binds as you getcloser to the middle of the
pipe?

Standard hole saye have a tooth pitch that is a little course for the
wall thickness of sched 40 pipe. There is a company--Sioux, I think,
that makes hole saws with finer teeth. Not quite fine enough, IMO, but
they work better.


Fred wrote:
This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight
notch at
90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck). In
notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole saw I
encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then the drill
press
slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed rate
and
lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest pulley
(for
the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high on
the
side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole saw to
bind
and for the drill press slip as well?






  #7   Report Post  
Ken Davey
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Bruce Johnstone wrote:
Sounds like your setup isn't rigid enough and the hole saw is
binding. Try one of these, if setup right, you can cut through in one
pass once the top piece of waste is cleared from hole saw.

http://www.wttool.com/p/2800-0350?utm_id=24

Bruce


"Fred" wrote in message
...
Actually it binds at the beginning from the top to about 1/3 of the
down then its ok to 2/3 of the way down then I have to flip the pipe
over and cut on the opposite side since the hole saw is not long
enough and binding starts all over again. I do think your right
about not having enough teeth on the saw. Thanks, I'll check Sioux
out. "ed_h" wrote in message
oups.com...
Probably starts out OK and binds as you getcloser to the middle of
the pipe?

Standard hole saye have a tooth pitch that is a little course for
the wall thickness of sched 40 pipe. There is a company--Sioux, I
think, that makes hole saws with finer teeth. Not quite fine
enough, IMO, but they work better.


Fred wrote:
This is my first notching operation. Nothing fancy, just a straight
notch at
90 degrees with my new floor drill press (1/2 hp with 5/8" chuck).
In notching a 1-1/2" sch 40 black pipe with a 2" Milwaukee hole
saw I encountered two problems. First the hole saw binds and then
the drill press
slips. I'm at the lowest speed about 200 RPM with very slow feed
rate and
lots of lubrication. Ok I know why my DP slips. On the smallest
pulley (for
the lowest RPM) the belt looks like too thin and doesn't ride high
on the
side walls all that much. Is this normal for a good quality hole
saw to bind
and for the drill press slip as well?


Is the saw locked rigidly to ther arbor?
Most pin-drive saw arbors do not lock up solid.
Starrett makes one that works well and isn't expensive. Catalogue number
A17-38

Ken.


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