Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
reinforced the hitch, your thoughts please
I made a dirt bike carrier last weeks:
http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/projects.html#carrier and there was concern regarding the hitch/receiver set up. I added a few more enhancements to make it stronger. This supports a 40lb rack with a 215lb motorcycle strapped to it. The tongue extends about 15" from the jeep. Here's a detailed pic of the hitch: http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/hitch_getup.jpg Wayne Cook, what are your thoughts? thanks folks, walt |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 09:03:41 -0400, "wallster"
wrote: I made a dirt bike carrier last weeks: http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/projects.html#carrier and there was concern regarding the hitch/receiver set up. I added a few more enhancements to make it stronger. This supports a 40lb rack with a 215lb motorcycle strapped to it. The tongue extends about 15" from the jeep. Here's a detailed pic of the hitch: http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/hitch_getup.jpg Wayne Cook, what are your thoughts? The only area of concern is at the bottom of the bumper. If you look at it you see that the gusset stops right at the bottom of the bumper leaving only the 3/4" thickness to hold the whole thing up. If that gusset went to the top of the bumper I wouldn't worry to much. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Wayne Cook wrote: The only area of concern is at the bottom of the bumper. If you look at it you see that the gusset stops right at the bottom of the bumper leaving only the 3/4" thickness to hold the whole thing up. If that gusset went to the top of the bumper I wouldn't worry to much. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm VERY good point (i dont know how i missed that), Wayne, you're a mechanical wiz. I have two 1/4" gussets that would fit perfect on each side (inside the right angles, one per side) and i think that would be much better. Thanks. walt |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Wayne Cook wrote: SNIPPED leaving only the 3/4" thickness to hold the whole thing up. If that gusset went to the top of the bumper I wouldn't worry to much. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm Hey Wayne (or anyone else here), have you ever mig welded on a bumper while it's still attached to the vehicle? It's a major pita taking this thing on and off but i'm not big on exploding (from the proximity of the fuel tank) I would be welding outdoors to allow for optimum ventilation. It sounds like a no-brainer not to do it but i've seen a car completely engulfed in flames and the fire fighter told me that the blowing up of the gas tank wasn't a major concern. (although the spare tire popping was exciting!) thanks, walt |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
On 12 Sep 2005 08:39:04 -0700, "wallster"
wrote: Wayne Cook wrote: SNIPPED leaving only the 3/4" thickness to hold the whole thing up. If that gusset went to the top of the bumper I wouldn't worry to much. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm Hey Wayne (or anyone else here), have you ever mig welded on a bumper while it's still attached to the vehicle? It's a major pita taking this thing on and off but i'm not big on exploding (from the proximity of the fuel tank) I would be welding outdoors to allow for optimum ventilation. It sounds like a no-brainer not to do it but i've seen a car completely engulfed in flames and the fire fighter told me that the blowing up of the gas tank wasn't a major concern. (although the spare tire popping was exciting!) In this situation I wouldn't worry to much. There's plenty of metal between you and the gas tank. When I start to get worried is when welding above a plastic gas tank. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
wallster wrote:
Wayne Cook wrote: SNIPPED leaving only the 3/4" thickness to hold the whole thing up. If that gusset went to the top of the bumper I wouldn't worry to much. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm Hey Wayne (or anyone else here), have you ever mig welded on a bumper while it's still attached to the vehicle? It's a major pita taking this thing on and off but i'm not big on exploding (from the proximity of the fuel tank) I would be welding outdoors to allow for optimum ventilation. It sounds like a no-brainer not to do it but i've seen a car completely engulfed in flames and the fire fighter told me that the blowing up of the gas tank wasn't a major concern. (although the spare tire popping was exciting!) thanks, walt Just fill the tank with water.. Seriously, if it's not leaking and you're not putting sparks in the filler neck you're ok. If there's any concern about sparks getting in the filler neck or tank, making sure the tank is all the way full eliminates the possibility of explosion. As always, keep a good extinguisher or two handy when working on a car. John |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
JohnM wrote: Just fill the tank with water.. Seriously, if it's not leaking and you're not putting sparks in the filler neck you're ok. If there's any concern about sparks getting in the filler neck or tank, making sure the tank is all the way full eliminates the possibility of explosion. As always, keep a good extinguisher or two handy when working on a car. John i've decided to just take a few extra minutes and take it off first (at least this time the bolts aren't all rusted on). Plus, I think my welds are better when i can position the work rather than having to position me. thanks for the suggestion, it sounds wierd to make sure the tank is full, but it is true that the fumes ignite, not the fuel. walt |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I'm more concerned with the torque loading on the cross member than I am
with the gussets. Apparently the cross member is 1" bar stock but in torque loading, only the outside shell actually takes much load. wallster wrote: I made a dirt bike carrier last weeks: http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/projects.html#carrier and there was concern regarding the hitch/receiver set up. I added a few more enhancements to make it stronger. This supports a 40lb rack with a 215lb motorcycle strapped to it. The tongue extends about 15" from the jeep. Here's a detailed pic of the hitch: http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/hitch_getup.jpg Wayne Cook, what are your thoughts? thanks folks, walt |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
RoyJ wrote: I'm more concerned with the torque loading on the cross member than I am with the gussets. Apparently the cross member is 1" bar stock but in torque loading, only the outside shell actually takes much load. Roy, the 1" plate (or cross member) is bolted to the backing plate on the jeep and that is bolted to the frame. Each end of the cross member has four 7/16" grade 8 bolts with washers and lock washers. I also added one more through the L bracket section of the hitch because i did not weld that (i bought the jeep with this hitch on it) and i dont know what kind of penetration the previous welder had received (or what rod he, or she had used) It looks good, but without x-ray or cutting it, i just cant tell. does this answer your concern? i'm not positive what you mean by the outside shell. thanks, walt |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
The 1"x4" steel bar has about the same polar section modulus (failure by
torsion) as a piece of 2"x4"x .120. It should bend at about 1500 pounds at the point where the bike mounts. A couple of good chuck holes should bend it. wallster wrote: RoyJ wrote: I'm more concerned with the torque loading on the cross member than I am with the gussets. Apparently the cross member is 1" bar stock but in torque loading, only the outside shell actually takes much load. Roy, the 1" plate (or cross member) is bolted to the backing plate on the jeep and that is bolted to the frame. Each end of the cross member has four 7/16" grade 8 bolts with washers and lock washers. I also added one more through the L bracket section of the hitch because i did not weld that (i bought the jeep with this hitch on it) and i dont know what kind of penetration the previous welder had received (or what rod he, or she had used) It looks good, but without x-ray or cutting it, i just cant tell. does this answer your concern? i'm not positive what you mean by the outside shell. thanks, walt |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 03:15:06 GMT, RoyJ wrote:
The 1"x4" steel bar has about the same polar section modulus (failure by torsion) as a piece of 2"x4"x .120. It should bend at about 1500 pounds at the point where the bike mounts. A couple of good chuck holes should bend it. Did you figure in the fact that it was held on both ends. wallster wrote: RoyJ wrote: I'm more concerned with the torque loading on the cross member than I am with the gussets. Apparently the cross member is 1" bar stock but in torque loading, only the outside shell actually takes much load. Roy, the 1" plate (or cross member) is bolted to the backing plate on the jeep and that is bolted to the frame. Each end of the cross member has four 7/16" grade 8 bolts with washers and lock washers. I also added one more through the L bracket section of the hitch because i did not weld that (i bought the jeep with this hitch on it) and i dont know what kind of penetration the previous welder had received (or what rod he, or she had used) It looks good, but without x-ray or cutting it, i just cant tell. does this answer your concern? i'm not positive what you mean by the outside shell. thanks, walt Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
"Wayne Cook" wrote in message ... On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 03:15:06 GMT, RoyJ wrote: The 1"x4" steel bar has about the same polar section modulus (failure by torsion) as a piece of 2"x4"x .120. It should bend at about 1500 pounds at the point where the bike mounts. A couple of good chuck holes should bend it. Did you figure in the fact that it was held on both ends. Wayne, here's how the 1"x4" steel bar is mounted. Roy, i think it's strong enough for my application, but i DO appreciate your input. http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/mounting_bolts.JPG Also, I welded two 4'x6" 1/4" gussets to the L bracket. http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/new_gussets.JPG here's the finished hitch... i 'm not taking it off anymore!!! (i smacked my head on the jeep, left a nice cut!) http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/painted_gussets.jpg thanks, walt |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 14:24:04 GMT, RoyJ wrote:
I'm more concerned with the torque loading on the cross member than I am with the gussets. Apparently the cross member is 1" bar stock but in torque loading, only the outside shell actually takes much load. That looks like 1" x 4 or 5" (possibly 6") I wouldn't worry to much about it. Ever try to bend a piece of 1" x 4"? It's pretty strong. I admit that it's not the best piece of steel for the job but I don't think it'll bend before he breaks his bolts. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Wayne Cook wrote: On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 14:24:04 GMT, RoyJ wrote: I'm more concerned with the torque loading on the cross member than I am with the gussets. Apparently the cross member is 1" bar stock but in torque loading, only the outside shell actually takes much load. That looks like 1" x 4 or 5" (possibly 6") I wouldn't worry to much about it. Ever try to bend a piece of 1" x 4"? It's pretty strong. I admit that it's not the best piece of steel for the job but I don't think it'll bend before he breaks his bolts. Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm 1" x 4"... now you can sleep tonight. walt |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 09:03:41 -0400, "wallster"
wrote: I made a dirt bike carrier last weeks: http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/projects.html#carrier and there was concern regarding the hitch/receiver set up. I added a few more enhancements to make it stronger. This supports a 40lb rack with a 215lb motorcycle strapped to it. The tongue extends about 15" from the jeep. Here's a detailed pic of the hitch: http://www.wallys-speed-shop.com/hitch_getup.jpg Wayne Cook, what are your thoughts? thanks folks, walt My neighbor just had a brand-name class-III (6000 lb tow weight, 600 lb tongue weight) hitch professionally installed on his van at a hitch place. Yours looks somewhat stiffer than his. |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Don Foreman wrote: My neighbor just had a brand-name class-III (6000 lb tow weight, 600 lb tongue weight) hitch professionally installed on his van at a hitch place. Yours looks somewhat stiffer than his. Don, I can buy a HD frame mounted hitch that simply bolts on for $150., maybe even less if i really looked hard enough, (http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/j...tch~parts.html) but what fun would that be? No cutting, welding, grinding? Geez, if i cant make this a major project, why bother?? : ) Walt |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
On 12 Sep 2005 09:26:15 -0700, "wallster"
wrote: Don Foreman wrote: My neighbor just had a brand-name class-III (6000 lb tow weight, 600 lb tongue weight) hitch professionally installed on his van at a hitch place. Yours looks somewhat stiffer than his. Don, I can buy a HD frame mounted hitch that simply bolts on for $150., maybe even less if i really looked hard enough, (http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/j...tch~parts.html) but what fun would that be? No cutting, welding, grinding? Geez, if i cant make this a major project, why bother?? : ) Walt Absolutely! T'wouldn't be any fun at all. I would question the ability of the "name brand" hitch I looked at to handle your application, while yours looks very capable. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Bending receiver hitch? | Metalworking | |||
Trailer Hitch Modification? | Metalworking | |||
Weight of reinforced concrete ? | UK diy | |||
Thoughts on sanding | Woodturning | |||
Any thoughts for covering internal bricks walls? | UK diy |