Would it be considered a gloat if I were to mention that I just picked up a
Sanford benchtop surface grinder for $150.00? Or would you all believe
that I am simply sharing my happiness in such a find?

It is the small one intended for a four or five-inch wheel, but it came
with a six-inch wheel attached, and it will fit a seven inside the shield,
but I think it will probably operate a little better with four-inch wheels
- of which I have a few.

Everything seems quite tight except for the table-travel wheel which has a
lot of play - but, I understand that this is common on pretty much all
manually fed surface grinders. The table doesn't seem to have any play in
the V-groove, though.

I saw a drill press, a six-inch Atlas lathe (already sold) and a H/V
bandsaw that all came out of the same shop, and they all looked like they
were well cared for, as does this grinder.

I actually stumbled over it at a used tool place - Liberty (Maine) Tools
aka "Tacky Harry's" - which I frequent that is not too far from my shop.
They were asking $185, but he took $20 off when I said he could keep the
table ( a really low bench that would have probably required sitting down
to use the grinder), plus I get a ten percent discount as a "frequent
flyer" at this shop - bringing my total down to $148.50.

I did a Dogpile search and found a similar one on the 'net with an asking
price of $750.

Sound like I did okay?


Bob Paulin - R.A.C.E.
Chassis Analysis Services

Want to double your money?

Sounds like a well-deserved gloat to me.

"Bob Paulin" wrote in message
news:01c37d6e$ae446ba0$f19ac3d8@race...

Would it be considered a gloat if I were to mention that I just picked up
a
Sanford benchtop surface grinder for $150.00? Or would you all believe
that I am simply sharing my happiness in such a find?

It is the small one intended for a four or five-inch wheel, but it came
with a six-inch wheel attached, and it will fit a seven inside the shield,
but I think it will probably operate a little better with four-inch wheels
- of which I have a few.

Everything seems quite tight except for the table-travel wheel which has a
lot of play - but, I understand that this is common on pretty much all
manually fed surface grinders. The table doesn't seem to have any play in
the V-groove, though.

I saw a drill press, a six-inch Atlas lathe (already sold) and a H/V
bandsaw that all came out of the same shop, and they all looked like they
were well cared for, as does this grinder.

I actually stumbled over it at a used tool place - Liberty (Maine) Tools
aka "Tacky Harry's" - which I frequent that is not too far from my shop.
They were asking $185, but he took $20 off when I said he could keep the
table ( a really low bench that would have probably required sitting down
to use the grinder), plus I get a ten percent discount as a "frequent
flyer" at this shop - bringing my total down to $148.50.

I did a Dogpile search and found a similar one on the 'net with an asking
price of $750.

Sound like I did okay?


Bob Paulin - R.A.C.E.
Chassis Analysis Services

In article 01c37d6e$ae446ba0$f19ac3d8@race, Bob Paulin wrote:

Would it be considered a gloat if I were to mention that I just picked up a
Sanford benchtop surface grinder for $150.00? Or would you all believe
that I am simply sharing my happiness in such a find?

Congratulations! I've got one of their grinders, and am very
happy with it.

It is the small one intended for a four or five-inch wheel, but it came
with a six-inch wheel attached, and it will fit a seven inside the shield,

Hmm ... a different shield from mine, then. I think that a
four-inch wheel is the max.

but I think it will probably operate a little better with four-inch wheels
- of which I have a few.

Good.

Everything seems quite tight except for the table-travel wheel which has a
lot of play - but, I understand that this is common on pretty much all
manually fed surface grinders. The table doesn't seem to have any play in
the V-groove, though.

Do you have a manual for it? If not, I got what may be the last
manual from the company before they went strange, and stopped responding
to communications, or shipping things (even things which were already
paid for.)

If you want to visit my web site, specifically the following,
you will find both the manuals scanned into PDF files, and my own
re-design of the wiring for powering the mag chuck, after finding that
the filter cap in mine was dried up, and the rectifier was a little
selenium rectifier, which I replaced with a bridge rectifier.

http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/MANUALS/Sanford

I normally would post this, but my newsfeed is messed up, and my ISP is
not being particularly quick about fixing it. (It is one-directional --
I get all the articles, but things posted just stay forever on my
server.) Of course, if there is enough storm damage in the next couple
of days, that may be the least of my problems. :-)

[ ... ]

I did a Dogpile search and found a similar one on the 'net with an asking
price of $750.

Sound like I did okay?

I think so. I paid $800.00 for mine -- picked up at Cabin Fever
a few years ago.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Is this place in Maine? Where at? I'm in Westbrook, Maine.......

Dave Young

Is this place in Maine? Where at? I'm in Westbrook, Maine.......

Dave Young


It's in Liberty. Turnpike to Augusta, then hang a right. Great place to
visit. Lots of woodworking tools, but probably as many metalworking. Never
know what you'll find. Allow at least a couple of hours there.

I'm in Cumberland. Liberty is about 75 miles, if I recall correctly.

John Martin

JMartin957 wrote in article
...

Is this place in Maine? Where at? I'm in Westbrook, Maine.......

Dave Young


It's in Liberty. Turnpike to Augusta, then hang a right. Great place to
visit. Lots of woodworking tools, but probably as many metalworking.
Never
know what you'll find. Allow at least a couple of hours there.

I'm in Cumberland. Liberty is about 75 miles, if I recall correctly.

John Martin



What John said above, and....take route 3 out of Augusta or Belfast to
Route 220/173 (after the 10-4 Diner coming from Belfast, and after Lake St.
George State Park coming from Augusta). Follow the road into town and
Liberty Tool is on the right.


Actually, there has been an increase in metal-working stuff recently. It
all depends on what Skip (the store owner) finds out there. Power tools are
across the street in the old Mobil gas station. Today there were a large
number of scroll saws running between $40 and $75, some benchtop drill
presses in the $40 range a wood bandsaw, and some 3/8", fixed speed,
non-reversible Black & Decker drills for $5 (yes, five dollars).

There is one of those five-in-one Shopmaster-type woodworking setups, but I
never checked the price.

I saw a milling machine tapping head today for $38. I would have bought it,
but I already have two. There is an entire cabinet full of metalworking
precision stuff - Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Mitutoyo, etc. One-inch mikes
for $15, dial indicators for $10 and up. I bought a three-inch travel,
Federal dial indicator last year for $16.

There is a hardness tester that has been there for a year or more that was
recently marked down to $65. I really don't know how to operate it, nor do
I know if there are key components missing, but somebody who is familiar
with this tool just might find themselves a good deal.

There is a fairly large amount of end mills and tool bits in various
locations around the store for 75 cents to $3 or so each. Some are carbide,
some are re-grinds, some are near new, and, of course, some are simply
junk.

Occasionally you will fine an older edition of Machinery's Handbook for $8
or $10. I bought a 16th edition a few weeks ago for $8 to go along with my
25th edition. A friend of mine says that the older books have a lot more
formulas and "tricks-of-the-trade."

Today, I bought some larger De Sta Co clamps for a couple dollars each, a
"kant-twist" clamp for a buck, a bundle of 6 approximately 5/16"
counterbores for $2, an automatic center punch for $1.50, and a bunch of
four and five-inch grinding wheels for the new-to-me surface grinder at 50
to 75 cents each.

A friend who rebuilds Ford Model A and V-8 flathead engines picked up a
specialty valve removal tool that is simply not available anywhere for $8 a
couple of weeks ago.

I try to go once every week or two, because new stuff is always coming in -
usually on Saturday morning. The surface grinder happened to come in on
Tuesday, and I was there on Thursday. It probably would not have lasted
beyond Saturday or Sunday without being sold.

A lot of guys are there on Saturday morning when the newly acquired stock
appears, and Skip rarely has to tote a box into the store himself. Many of
the guys do it for him in order to have the first look into the box to see
what goodies it may contain.

It is, on many levels, a cultural experience.

Bob Paulin - R.A.C.E.
Chassis Analysis Services

DoN:

Sent you a private e-mail explaining the fortuitous timing that the above
post was for me.

Sincere thanks for the great information - especially the wiring schematic.

Bob Paulin - R.A.C.E.
Chassis Analysis Services

DoN:

Any chance you know exactly what the electrical output is at the "jones
Plug" that goes into the magnetic chuck?

Volts, Amps, AC/DC?

With the rectifier bridge, it appears to be DC, but my limited
electrical/electronics knowledge keeps me from figuring out the
voltage/amperage.

I was considering maybe trying to operate the chuck on a separate
transformer/converter.

Thanks!

Bob Paulin - R.A.C.E.
Chassis Analysis Services

In article 01c37eb7$51ce5ee0$b797c3d8@race, Bob Paulin wrote:
DoN:

Any chance you know exactly what the electrical output is at the "jones
Plug" that goes into the magnetic chuck?

Volts, Amps, AC/DC?

With the rectifier bridge, it appears to be DC, but my limited
electrical/electronics knowledge keeps me from figuring out the
voltage/amperage.

I don't know the amperage, other than that it is limited by the
series resistor. But the voltage is 170 VDC with 120 VAC input.
Multiply the AC line voltage (nominal tops of 120VAC) by the ratio from
RMS voltage to peak voltage (1.414) to get the maximum voltage on the
filter capacitor, and thus on the mag chuck's coils. It won't *need* a
transformer.

The 35 Ohms resistor limits the maximum current to 4.857 A. But
if it were drawing that much, you would need an 8257 Watt resistor to
keep it from burning up, and you don't. I think that the current is
well below 1 A, but would have to measure the resistance of the mag
chuck. Even 1 A is a bit too much for the rating of the resistor found
in the machine, which looks like a 25 Watt resistor.

I was considering maybe trying to operate the chuck on a separate
transformer/converter.

What purpose for the transformer (other than reducing the shock
hazard a bit)? Normally, a transformer is used to change the voltage,
and here you're using the full voltage available from the AC power line.

The design shown will cost less than anything requiring a
transformer -- though you could drop the cost a little by replacing the
bridge rectifier with a single rectifier diode -- at the cost of a
little less strength of field at the magnet.

Ideally, you should perform the safety modification suggested in
the manual (if it has not already been done). The Jones connector on
the chuck should be male, with a female connector on the cable which
connects to that. This avoids having high voltage sitting on bare pins
with the plug disconnected from the chuck, but still connected to the
base unit. (It was included in a safety bulletin installed in the
manual.) They also warn about not using flood coolant with the
electro-magnetic chuck. Instead, you want a permanent magnet chuck, if
you have to use coolant -- and you want to seal off the connector port
in the housing.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Bob Paulin" wrote in message news:01c37eb7$51ce5ee0$b797c3d8@race...
DoN:

Any chance you know exactly what the electrical output is at the "jones
Plug" that goes into the magnetic chuck?

Volts, Amps, AC/DC?

With the rectifier bridge, it appears to be DC, but my limited
electrical/electronics knowledge keeps me from figuring out the
voltage/amperage.

I was considering maybe trying to operate the chuck on a separate
transformer/converter.

Thanks!

Bob Paulin - R.A.C.E.
Chassis Analysis Services

A small chuck might draw anywhere from 25 to 100 watts at a nominal
110V DC. That would be on the order of 1/4 to 1 amp. I don't know if
the 110V DC needs to be smooth, filtered or if it is just a simple
rectified but unfiltered 110/120V AC power line that averages out to
110V. (I'll go check if you ask me to but am not going to do that
just to post this text.) If it needs to be filtered, you'd need a
transformer on the order of 80 volts output, to get a rectfied
filtered output around 110V DC.

Anyway, I figure a variac (variable autotransformer, "variac",
"powerstat" etc.) and a bridge rectifier is the obvious way to
home-brew a control. Using that, you could wire a switch to bypass
the rectifier and also get variable AC, to demagnetize the chuck as
well, by slowly turning the variac up from zero and back down.