Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Jim
 
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Default Hardinge spindle bearing ? (Gunner)

Just wanted to thank Gunner for his excellant step by step essay on
replacing spindle bearings on an old chucker I picked up.I have the
bearings and about to install them but curious about some numbers I see
on the spindle itself (8 and 3) next to the bearing location and the
instructions from the bearing box sais to line up the #'s of maximum
radial eccentricity of the bearings 180 degrees oppisate of the shaft
and housing eccentricity. I am assuming these numbers on the spindle
designate this although Gunner did not mention anything about the
spindle or housing runnout.These numbers are in microns and I figure
that translates to .000003 of an inch, the bearings are marked 2 and
3.Personally I have no concept of how this eccentricity is measured
especially 50 years ago when this spindle was originally ground? This
is the first time I have dealt with such precision bearings and would
like to take my time and learn to do it right the first time. Thanks
for any input on installing or how the hell someone measures to six
decimal points. Jim

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wws
 
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Jim wrote:

Just wanted to thank Gunner for his excellant step by step essay on
replacing spindle bearings on an old chucker I picked up.I have the
bearings and about to install them but curious about some numbers I see
on the spindle itself (8 and 3) next to the bearing location and the
instructions from the bearing box sais to line up the #'s of maximum
radial eccentricity of the bearings 180 degrees oppisate of the shaft
and housing eccentricity. I am assuming these numbers on the spindle
designate this although Gunner did not mention anything about the
spindle or housing runnout.These numbers are in microns and I figure
that translates to .000003 of an inch, the bearings are marked 2 and
3.Personally I have no concept of how this eccentricity is measured
especially 50 years ago when this spindle was originally ground? This
is the first time I have dealt with such precision bearings and would
like to take my time and learn to do it right the first time. Thanks
for any input on installing or how the hell someone measures to six
decimal points. Jim

http://65.204.160.42/index.php?id=788
ideas?
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PrecisionMachinisT
 
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"wws" wrote in message
...

http://65.204.160.42/index.php?id=788
ideas?


Just line up all the little arrows on the bearings.

--

SVL


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Gunner
 
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On Sun, 7 Aug 2005 23:07:19 -0700, "PrecisionMachinisT"
wrote:


"wws" wrote in message
...

http://65.204.160.42/index.php?id=788
ideas?


Just line up all the little arrows on the bearings.


Or the little dots.

I got a pair of Grade 8 bearings the other day that had NO alignment
markings. I called the distributor, he checked the shelves..none of
them had marks. I told the customer, he needed the machine ASAP...so
in they went with the numbers lined up. Ill check on em in about 10
yrs and see how well they are holding up.

Gunner

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Gunner
 
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On 7 Aug 2005 20:43:40 -0700, "Jim" wrote:

Just wanted to thank Gunner for his excellant step by step essay on
replacing spindle bearings on an old chucker I picked up.I have the
bearings and about to install them but curious about some numbers I see
on the spindle itself (8 and 3) next to the bearing location and the
instructions from the bearing box sais to line up the #'s of maximum
radial eccentricity of the bearings 180 degrees oppisate of the shaft
and housing eccentricity. I am assuming these numbers on the spindle
designate this although Gunner did not mention anything about the
spindle or housing runnout.These numbers are in microns and I figure
that translates to .000003 of an inch, the bearings are marked 2 and
3.Personally I have no concept of how this eccentricity is measured
especially 50 years ago when this spindle was originally ground? This
is the first time I have dealt with such precision bearings and would
like to take my time and learn to do it right the first time. Thanks
for any input on installing or how the hell someone measures to six
decimal points. Jim


Line up the marks on both bearings, and stick em in. The chucker will
never know if you are a couple millonths out.

Glad the FAQ was of some help.

Gunner



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Jim
 
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no arrows so I just lined up the numbers and everything went together
nicely, now all I hear is the belts bouncing. Does anybody have an
after market part # for the top belt on a chucker. # on the belt is
H615-9625, Good Year 46 but my local bearing shop can't seem to cross
reference it .Also I have a cog belt on the motor, is it ok to use cogs
on the spindle end. Thanks again. Jim

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Gunner
 
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On 8 Aug 2005 19:51:01 -0700, "Jim" wrote:

no arrows so I just lined up the numbers and everything went together
nicely, now all I hear is the belts bouncing. Does anybody have an
after market part # for the top belt on a chucker. # on the belt is
H615-9625, Good Year 46 but my local bearing shop can't seem to cross
reference it .Also I have a cog belt on the motor, is it ok to use cogs
on the spindle end. Thanks again. Jim


Belts are hard to find for the Chucker. Bite the bullet and buy em
from Hardinge. You will only have to buy em once every 25 yrs or so.
G

Cog belt on the motor? Or are you talking about the split back on the
drive belt? Thats to allow the belt to bend better as it goes through
the vari-drive. Less wear. The spindle belt should be flat backed,
else you may see some pattern show up in a finish turn. Might see a
bit of herringbone with a split backed spindle belt.

Belt bouncing? Set the vari-drive in the middle of its range, then
adjust the front elevator bolt until you have approx 1 1/8" movement
when you squeeze the motor belt together in the center. The two
hanger bolts at the back of the motor plate housing may have to be
raised or lowered if you have stretched belts and the front elevator
bolt is out of travel. Be sure to check that there is a rubber washer
UNDER the motor plate on the flange of the elevator bolt and a similar
rubber washer, steel washer over it and a lock nut to hold it in
place. If you still have rumbling..take a pry bar and see if the
rubber bushings that hold the elevator bolts at the rear are toast.
If so, turn down a couple rubber lab stoppers or order them from
Hardinge. They are like $10 or so for the pair.

Check your brake cork also. If its badly worn, wrap a single turn of
black electricians tape around the cork, reseat it in the brake, and
set the energized gap to about 1/16" inch, and put on a couple drops
of any oil, even motor oil. Oil it every couple months with a couple
drops.

Gunner

If you are going to use that phrase then you should use
the full phrase of "**** Off and Die and Rot In A Ditch
and Get Eaten By Maggots and ****ed On and **** On By
a Dysenteric Elephant (but not necessarily in that order)."

Crash Street Kidd
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Mike Hanz
 
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Default Hardinge spindle bearing ? (Gunner)

My apologies to the group... Mark, could you please send me your
latest e-mail address? I've tried sending a couple of notes to your
latest address on this subject but no response. I understand if you
are overwhelmed with other work.

Best wishes,
Mike

On Mon, 08 Aug 2005 09:25:58 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

On 7 Aug 2005 20:43:40 -0700, "Jim" wrote:

Just wanted to thank Gunner for his excellant step by step essay on
replacing spindle bearings on an old chucker I picked up.


Line up the marks on both bearings, and stick em in. The chucker will
never know if you are a couple millonths out.

Glad the FAQ was of some help.

Gunner

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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
Gunner
 
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Default Hardinge spindle bearing ? (Gunner)

On Fri, 10 Feb 2006 19:57:40 -0500, Mike Hanz
wrote:

My apologies to the group... Mark, could you please send me your
latest e-mail address? I've tried sending a couple of notes to your
latest address on this subject but no response. I understand if you
are overwhelmed with other work.

Best wishes,
Mike

On Mon, 08 Aug 2005 09:25:58 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

On 7 Aug 2005 20:43:40 -0700, "Jim" wrote:

Just wanted to thank Gunner for his excellant step by step essay on
replacing spindle bearings on an old chucker I picked up.


Line up the marks on both bearings, and stick em in. The chucker will
never know if you are a couple millonths out.

Glad the FAQ was of some help.

Gunner



its the same gunner at lightspeed dot net it has been. Perhaps I
have my spam filter set too high. Use something like Hardinge etc in
the subject line so I can look for it and put you on the friends list.

Gunner



"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3
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