Q: How can I determine the year & model for a classic Rolex watch?

I bought a used pre-sapphire Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Chronometer for about $1800 from a New York jeweler in the early
nineties and I'm just wondering what it is worth. I'm sure that depends
on its age and specific model.

Currently, the most classic of watches is lying in my "to be fixed"
drawer because my kid dropped the watch on the cement a couple of years
ago and the previous repairs ($300 for an adjustment, $800 for a
complete overhaul) are still fresh on my mind as being overly
expensive.

I'm thinking of sending this classic watch in for repair IF (and this
is the reason for the question) if I can then sell it for a reasonable
price thereafter. But what is it worth?

I did a search and found vastly divergent prices ... depending partly
on the model and year - which is why I ask this question of you
experts.

Where do I look to determine the model and year (or other pertinent
information) in a classic Rolex stainless steel & gold Oyster Perpetual
Datejust (just the number, not the day of the week) chronometer?

My only value datapoint was when I walked into a pawn shop in Texas a
few years ago (I had never even 'seen' a pawn shop until I went to
Texas - I thought they were just in the gangster movies) and handed it
to the guy just to see what he'd say it was worth; he took off the band
and looked up the number he found on the crown at that spot and said
sweetly "I'll give you $500 for this" (which is exactly when I realized
that everything in a pawn shop must be stolen because nobody would part
with their Rolex watch for that low a price unless they stole it in the
first place).

So, I can dig up that serial number.
But, then what do I do with that number?

The watch "looks" like that on these pictures I found in my searches:
http://i16.ebayimg.com/02/i/04/3c/e3/db_12_sb.JPG
http://www.swswatches.com/sws/p792a.JPG
http://www.tnsdiamonds.com/Datejust/pg1.jpg

I am pretty sure it does NOT have the sapphire crystal because the
jeweler who sold it to me said it would not fit. I also wonder if I can
get a price for a non-working watch (which is what it is at the moment)
vs a working watch (which would be a simple lookup once I can figure
out the year and model).

In summary, not being a pro, where do I find the appropriate
identification information on my Rolex watch and then where do I look
up the value for it?

wrote in message ...
Q: How can I determine the year & model for a classic Rolex watch?


My only value datapoint was when I walked into a pawn shop in Texas a
few years ago
In summary, not being a pro, where do I find the appropriate
identification information on my Rolex watch and then where do I look
up the value for it?


Go back to the pawn shop. The value is only what someone is willing to pay
for it. Not working, I'd give maybe two bucks.

In good running condition, maybe $1800 to sell it, $2800 to buy it from a
retailer. From that you have to subtract the cost of getting it running
again.


There are books that purport to give Rolex prices but the data you can find
on the internet/ebay completed auctions are probably fresher and more
accurate than the books.


Here is a rough guide to serial #'s

http://www.xs4all.nl/~rkeulen/watch/rolex.html

Since 1998 Rolex has been assigning the numbers in such a way that you can't
tell anymore, because keeping your cards close to your vest is a very Swiss
thing to do. :-)



wrote in message
oups.com...
Q: How can I determine the year & model for a classic Rolex watch?

I bought a used pre-sapphire Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Chronometer for about $1800 from a New York jeweler in the early
nineties and I'm just wondering what it is worth. I'm sure that depends
on its age and specific model.

Currently, the most classic of watches is lying in my "to be fixed"
drawer because my kid dropped the watch on the cement a couple of years
ago and the previous repairs ($300 for an adjustment, $800 for a
complete overhaul) are still fresh on my mind as being overly
expensive.

I'm thinking of sending this classic watch in for repair IF (and this
is the reason for the question) if I can then sell it for a reasonable
price thereafter. But what is it worth?

I did a search and found vastly divergent prices ... depending partly
on the model and year - which is why I ask this question of you
experts.

Where do I look to determine the model and year (or other pertinent
information) in a classic Rolex stainless steel & gold Oyster Perpetual
Datejust (just the number, not the day of the week) chronometer?

My only value datapoint was when I walked into a pawn shop in Texas a
few years ago (I had never even 'seen' a pawn shop until I went to
Texas - I thought they were just in the gangster movies) and handed it
to the guy just to see what he'd say it was worth; he took off the band
and looked up the number he found on the crown at that spot and said
sweetly "I'll give you $500 for this" (which is exactly when I realized
that everything in a pawn shop must be stolen because nobody would part
with their Rolex watch for that low a price unless they stole it in the
first place).

So, I can dig up that serial number.
But, then what do I do with that number?

The watch "looks" like that on these pictures I found in my searches:
http://i16.ebayimg.com/02/i/04/3c/e3/db_12_sb.JPG
http://www.swswatches.com/sws/p792a.JPG
http://www.tnsdiamonds.com/Datejust/pg1.jpg

I am pretty sure it does NOT have the sapphire crystal because the
jeweler who sold it to me said it would not fit. I also wonder if I can
get a price for a non-working watch (which is what it is at the moment)
vs a working watch (which would be a simple lookup once I can figure
out the year and model).

In summary, not being a pro, where do I find the appropriate
identification information on my Rolex watch and then where do I look
up the value for it?

On 18 Jul 2005 17:03:04 -0700, graced this
newsgroup with:

Q: How can I determine the year & model for a classic Rolex watch?

I bought a used pre-sapphire Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Chronometer for about $1800 from a New York jeweler in the early
nineties and I'm just wondering what it is worth. I'm sure that depends
on its age and specific model.

Currently, the most classic of watches is lying in my "to be fixed"
drawer because my kid dropped the watch on the cement a couple of years
ago and the previous repairs ($300 for an adjustment, $800 for a
complete overhaul) are still fresh on my mind as being overly
expensive.

I'm thinking of sending this classic watch in for repair IF (and this
is the reason for the question) if I can then sell it for a reasonable
price thereafter. But what is it worth?

I did a search and found vastly divergent prices ... depending partly
on the model and year - which is why I ask this question of you
experts.

Where do I look to determine the model and year (or other pertinent
information) in a classic Rolex stainless steel & gold Oyster Perpetual
Datejust (just the number, not the day of the week) chronometer?

My only value datapoint was when I walked into a pawn shop in Texas a
few years ago (I had never even 'seen' a pawn shop until I went to
Texas - I thought they were just in the gangster movies) and handed it
to the guy just to see what he'd say it was worth; he took off the band
and looked up the number he found on the crown at that spot and said
sweetly "I'll give you $500 for this" (which is exactly when I realized
that everything in a pawn shop must be stolen because nobody would part
with their Rolex watch for that low a price unless they stole it in the
first place).

So, I can dig up that serial number.
But, then what do I do with that number?


Go to an authorized Rolex repair shop. The serial number is stamped
inside the watch. They'll be able to open it up and cross reference
the number and probably give you an idea of it's worth. Both before
and after repair. They'll also be able to give you an idea of its
age.

In alt.home.repair on 18 Jul 2005 17:03:04 -0700
posted:


Q: How can I determine the year & model for a classic Rolex watch?

I feel better now. I thought you were trying to set it, trying to
determine what year it is now.

I bought a used pre-sapphire Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust


Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

wrote:
Q: How can I determine the year & model for a classic Rolex watch?



Send it to me. I will examine it closely and determine it's worth. I
may or may not send it back.

Q1: Am I correct in the assumption that the watch serial number is
stamped under the connection of the watch band to the case?

Q2: Do I just push out the two small pins holding the watch band to the
case to remove the watch band?

Q3: Is there a particular dirction (or are these pins unidirectional)?

Q4: The actual watch band has the word "STEELINOX" and 5 numbers, a
letter, a space, and then two more numbers. What is the significance of
these band numbers?

Q5: Near the junction of the band to the case, on both sides, is the
number 455 stamped on the band. Does this have any significance?

I can proceed once I figure out the answer to questions 1 and 2 above.
Thanks for all your help,
RD

I don't believe the serial # is on the side of the case. Only the words
"Registered Design" appear there. Take it to Rolex dealer. Check ebay
for past sales. An auction the size of the ebay community will
determine is "real" value.
-Mike

wrote:
Q: How can I determine the year & model for a classic Rolex watch?

I bought a used pre-sapphire Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Chronometer for about $1800 from a New York jeweler in the early
nineties and I'm just wondering what it is worth. I'm sure that depends
on its age and specific model.

Currently, the most classic of watches is lying in my "to be fixed"
drawer because my kid dropped the watch on the cement a couple of years
ago and the previous repairs ($300 for an adjustment, $800 for a
complete overhaul) are still fresh on my mind as being overly
expensive.

I'm thinking of sending this classic watch in for repair IF (and this
is the reason for the question) if I can then sell it for a reasonable
price thereafter. But what is it worth?

I did a search and found vastly divergent prices ... depending partly
on the model and year - which is why I ask this question of you
experts.

Where do I look to determine the model and year (or other pertinent
information) in a classic Rolex stainless steel & gold Oyster Perpetual
Datejust (just the number, not the day of the week) chronometer?

My only value datapoint was when I walked into a pawn shop in Texas a
few years ago (I had never even 'seen' a pawn shop until I went to
Texas - I thought they were just in the gangster movies) and handed it
to the guy just to see what he'd say it was worth; he took off the band
and looked up the number he found on the crown at that spot and said
sweetly "I'll give you $500 for this" (which is exactly when I realized
that everything in a pawn shop must be stolen because nobody would part
with their Rolex watch for that low a price unless they stole it in the
first place).

So, I can dig up that serial number.
But, then what do I do with that number?

The watch "looks" like that on these pictures I found in my searches:
http://i16.ebayimg.com/02/i/04/3c/e3/db_12_sb.JPG
http://www.swswatches.com/sws/p792a.JPG
http://www.tnsdiamonds.com/Datejust/pg1.jpg

I am pretty sure it does NOT have the sapphire crystal because the
jeweler who sold it to me said it would not fit. I also wonder if I can
get a price for a non-working watch (which is what it is at the moment)
vs a working watch (which would be a simple lookup once I can figure
out the year and model).

In summary, not being a pro, where do I find the appropriate
identification information on my Rolex watch and then where do I look
up the value for it?

I'm not sure what a "reasonable" price is. If you are looking to
recover all of your costs to date including the undetermined cost of
repairs, then I don't think you will be able to do it.

First off I would take the watch to a Rolex dealer or to someone who
specializes in Rolex for an estimate on the repairs and to establish
its age. The repair work won't be cheap. If your goal is to sell the
Rolex, then you should get the work done by someone who can do a proper
job because he has access to factory parts and posesses the skills to
work on the watch.

wrote:
The serial number is stamped inside the watch.

Are you sure the serial number is INSIDE on a S&G Rolex Oyster
Perpetual?

I found my notes from when I opened it many years ago and all I wrote
down was the model number "16000" which was stamped on the case back on
the inside if I remember correctly. However, I don't remember seeing
any serial numbers stamped INSIDE?

I do remember seeing a serial number on the side (next to where the 6
o'clock position) underneath the band when the Texas pawn shop removed
the band to look up the serial number in a book to assess the value for
pawn purposes.

I wish I had written that serial number down as I don't have a tool to
get that pin out which holds the Jubilee steel and gold band to the
case (or is it to the crown)?

Do you know what tool will remove the Rolex Jubilee band?

Moka Java wrote:
There is no watch.
Shoot a picture of the back and front and post it [to prove it].
I think you have poor judgment as to how to handle an expensive watch.

Hi Richard,

In light of what happened today, I might actually agree with you on
this.
What happened was, (probably from all the banging), the second hand
fell off.
I like to learn by doing ... and making mistakes is part of doing ...
but maybe I'm learning a bit too much about Rolex watches!

In the spirit of providing necessary detail before asking a question,
here is a set (more than a half dozen) rather large (the free image
hosting site has a limit of 1MB so I had to keep them barely below that
size so you can blow them up if desired to prove I really snapped the
photos just now) photos of the watch with this thread on my computer as
the background.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4404/rolex19zh.jpg
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1465/rolex28rh.jpg
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/4349/rolex37af.jpg
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/710/rolex45we.jpg
http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/1149/rolex52bj.jpg
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/9494/rolex65rb.jpg
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/3668/rolex73tj.jpg

I'm not the best photographer there is and I've never had to prove I
owned the item before being able to ask questions about it; but I don't
mind as long as this documentation task helps me get the answers I seek
with respect to a better understanding of the Rolex watch and how to
repair it.

Once I remove the back plate, is it described somewhere on the web step
by step how to disassemble the watch (particularly to get that second
hand back on)?

Rusty D.

Frank Adam wrote:
Btw, i'm not sure if the OP has mentioned the vinatge of the watch, i
only recall him saying that he bought it "used", 15 years ago.
At least the 1530(and 35) had a proper regulator, later ones in that
series did indeed lose the regulating lever.

I don't know the "vintage"; that's what I originally was asking here.


I have the receipt in my hand right now (everything before was from
memory) and it shows I purchased it from the jeweler in 1992 for
$2354.oo including tax. The receipt merely says "Gent S/G Preowned
Rolex Datejust w/ Champagne dial" with no serial number on that receipt
(I do remember writing down 16000 which I found on the inside of the
back cover).

I now understand I can obtain the vintage by removing the band at the 6
o'clock position to cross reference the serial number. Those pins are
mighty small. I just snapped a photo of the watch while it was on my
keyboard.
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/8500/rolexpin8tu.jpg

Is there a common household tool that is small enough to get these pins
out?

Are they bi-directional?

On 20 Jul 2005 01:56:43 -0700, wrote:

snip
I now understand I can obtain the vintage by removing the band at the 6
o'clock position to cross reference the serial number. Those pins are
mighty small. I just snapped a photo of the watch while it was on my
keyboard.
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/8500/rolexpin8tu.jpg

Is there a common household tool that is small enough to get these pins
out?

A pin or thin nail will suffice. Perhaps to make it easier, flatten
off the pin's point on a grinder or oil stone, but anything that is
smaller that the diameter of the hole and can push that pin in will
do. You'll just have to hunt around in your tool box or shed.

Are they bi-directional?

They are called a spring bar(or lug). Imagine a tube with two pistons
inside, being pushed apart by a coil spring between them. Kind of like
an old drum brake slave cylinder, if that helps

You'll have to push the pin on one end, while with your third hand
pulling the band (gently) away from the case. Once you dislodge one
end you may think that you could pull the band off the case. Maybe
so, but in my experience those Rolex bands are very good fits and
getting just one side out will not let the band tilt far enough out of
the case. Forcing it off will damage the spring bar.
So, make sure you dislodge both ends of the spring bar. Once that is
done, the band will just pull away.
Hope this helped.

--

Regards, Frank

Your watch appears to be real but I can't tell w/o a picture of the
movement. The back light from your computer monitor really screwed up
the exposure of the watch. You wanna be a watchmaker capable of working
on Rolex and other high grade watches? Read the A Day In Watch School
articles, links at the bottom of this page:

http://www.thepurists.com/watch/indu...clesindex.html

Watchmaking is really something you have to dedicate your life to. I
know enough to know that I'm dangerous.

Richard "will find chills and thrills outside of a watch case" F

wrote:
Moka Java wrote:

There is no watch.
Shoot a picture of the back and front and post it [to prove it].
I think you have poor judgment as to how to handle an expensive watch.


Hi Richard,

In light of what happened today, I might actually agree with you on
this.
What happened was, (probably from all the banging), the second hand
fell off.
I like to learn by doing ... and making mistakes is part of doing ...
but maybe I'm learning a bit too much about Rolex watches!

In the spirit of providing necessary detail before asking a question,
here is a set (more than a half dozen) rather large (the free image
hosting site has a limit of 1MB so I had to keep them barely below that
size so you can blow them up if desired to prove I really snapped the
photos just now) photos of the watch with this thread on my computer as
the background.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4404/rolex19zh.jpg
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1465/rolex28rh.jpg
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/4349/rolex37af.jpg
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/710/rolex45we.jpg
http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/1149/rolex52bj.jpg
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/9494/rolex65rb.jpg
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/3668/rolex73tj.jpg

I'm not the best photographer there is and I've never had to prove I
owned the item before being able to ask questions about it; but I don't
mind as long as this documentation task helps me get the answers I seek
with respect to a better understanding of the Rolex watch and how to
repair it.

Once I remove the back plate, is it described somewhere on the web step
by step how to disassemble the watch (particularly to get that second
hand back on)?

Rusty D.

Frank Adam wrote:
....
You'll have to push the pin on one end, while with your third hand
pulling the band (gently) away from the case. Once you dislodge one
end you may think that you could pull the band off the case. Maybe
so, but in my experience those Rolex bands are very good fits and
getting just one side out will not let the band tilt far enough out of
the case. Forcing it off will damage the spring bar.
So, make sure you dislodge both ends of the spring bar. Once that is
done, the band will just pull away.
Hope this helped.

If this guy keeps messing w/ this the value will be zero...to OP, just
take it to a Rolex dealer and all will be known...if you paid what you
did, a few hundred can only be a reasonable investment to attempt to get
at least some of the value restored. Of course, is there any guarantee
it's not a fake? Perhaps that's what you don't want to know???

Frank Adam wrote:
....
You'll have to push the pin on one end, while with your third hand
pulling the band (gently) away from the case. Once you dislodge one
end you may think that you could pull the band off the case. Maybe
so, but in my experience those Rolex bands are very good fits and
getting just one side out will not let the band tilt far enough out of
the case. Forcing it off will damage the spring bar.
So, make sure you dislodge both ends of the spring bar. Once that is
done, the band will just pull away.
Hope this helped.

If this guy keeps messing w/ this the value will be zero...

To OP, just take it to a Rolex dealer and all will be known...if you
paid what you say you did, a few hundred can only be a reasonable
investment to attempt to get at least some of the value restored before
it's pass repair or it's thousands. Of course, is there any guarantee
it's not a fake? Perhaps that's what you don't want to know???

"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...

"If this guy keeps messing w/ this the value will be zero..."

Judging by the abuse (in photos and written word) this guy needs to buy a
new G-SHOCK every 5 or 6 years. Leave the delicate Rolexes for the used car
salesmen (as mentioned in another post).

Duane Bozarth wrote:
To OP, just take it to a Rolex dealer and all will be known...if you
paid what you say you did, a few hundred can only be a reasonable
investment to attempt to get at least some of the value restored before
it's pass repair or it's thousands.

Hi Duane,

Thanks for the advice.

If this were a purely financial decision (like which stock to buy or
sell), then it would be easy. Take it to an authorized Rolex dealer.
Pay another $800 which would instantly result in an $1800 dollar watch
on the private market. Whoopie doo. Financial decisions are easy (I buy
& fix cars that way). And my front lawn, I tell the gardener to fix the
patches of crabgrass.

My lawn is a message to my neighbors of who I am (so I pay someone to
take care of it) but I actually don't care much about my lawn. But my
watch isn't a message to anyone. A watch (to me) is supposed to be
rugged and functional and reliable and sturdy and strong. A lawn is
just a pretty showthing to the neighbors.

Point is, you won't see me posting on alt.crabgrass asking all kinds of
simple questions about the green boring stuff on my front lawn that
looks ugly. I pay someone else to have fun with my lawn. Money makes
the grass green.

But, a watch is a very different and personal thing. It's not just
money. The money is nearly meaningless anyway when you pay anything
more than a few hundred dollars for a watch wouldn't you think?

Anyone who says buying a two thousand dollar solid unplated watch is a
purely financial decision doesn't think the way I do, I guess. Despite
the fact the horologic microeconomoc finances have been debated, the
money isn't the main issue at all (otherwise I'd have bought a ten
dollar Casio once a year and be done with it).

Also, sending it out for repair isn't the issue either. Did you ever
take something apart because you were just fascinated about how
beautiful it was? Did you ever wonder what makes it tick; what it was
made of; how to modify its ticking; how to ...

If all I wanted was a working watch, I wouldn't be posting to
alt.horology in the first place. And, since I respect the knowledge of
folks like Richard, Jack, John, Frank, etc., I actually go to the
effort to answer their concerns just as they spend the time and
courtesy to answer mine.

If I didn't love this Rolex, I wouldn't be trying to take it apart!
I'd pay someone else to learn all about it!

Rusty

wrote:
Duane Bozarth wrote:
To OP, just take it to a Rolex dealer and all will be known...if you
paid what you say you did, a few hundred can only be a reasonable
investment to attempt to get at least some of the value restored before
it's pass repair or it's thousands.

Hi Duane,

Thanks for the advice.

If this were a purely financial decision (like which stock to buy or
sell), then it would be easy. Take it to an authorized Rolex dealer.
Pay another $800 which would instantly result in an $1800 dollar watch
on the private market. Whoopie doo. Financial decisions are easy (I buy
& fix cars that way). And my front lawn, I tell the gardener to fix the
patches of crabgrass.

My lawn is a message to my neighbors of who I am (so I pay someone to
take care of it) but I actually don't care much about my lawn. But my
watch isn't a message to anyone. A watch (to me) is supposed to be
rugged and functional and reliable and sturdy and strong. A lawn is
just a pretty showthing to the neighbors.

Point is, you won't see me posting on alt.crabgrass asking all kinds of
simple questions about the green boring stuff on my front lawn that
looks ugly. I pay someone else to have fun with my lawn. Money makes
the grass green.

But, a watch is a very different and personal thing. It's not just
money. The money is nearly meaningless anyway when you pay anything
more than a few hundred dollars for a watch wouldn't you think?

Anyone who says buying a two thousand dollar solid unplated watch is a
purely financial decision doesn't think the way I do, I guess. Despite
the fact the horologic microeconomoc finances have been debated, the
money isn't the main issue at all (otherwise I'd have bought a ten
dollar Casio once a year and be done with it).

Also, sending it out for repair isn't the issue either. Did you ever
take something apart because you were just fascinated about how
beautiful it was? Did you ever wonder what makes it tick; what it was
made of; how to modify its ticking; how to ...

If all I wanted was a working watch, I wouldn't be posting to
alt.horology in the first place. And, since I respect the knowledge of
folks like Richard, Jack, John, Frank, etc., I actually go to the
effort to answer their concerns just as they spend the time and
courtesy to answer mine.

If I didn't love this Rolex, I wouldn't be trying to take it apart!
I'd pay someone else to learn all about it!

Rusty

I fully understand your highly emotional relationship with your Rolex
watch, which is utterly unvaluable: love is priceless.

I assume that besides your Rolex, you have a loved one. Now, should she
feel ill, would you want to play the doctor med with her, would you
feel the urge of operating her all by yourself, risking her health and
possibly her life?

Similarly, please show your love to your Rolex and go to the next Rolex
dealer, who shall be able to show you the innards of your watch,
explain the function of each single part, perhaps show you an animation
of the movement, repair and restore your watch to full value, as your
loved one's medic would.

Please trust the advice of all the people on this NG who love their
watches as much as you do your Rolex, and respect the built-in know-how
inheritance, skills and workmanship of over decades well trained
dedicated watchmakers.

Honest John wrote:
Judging by the abuse (in photos and written word) this guy needs to buy a
new G-SHOCK every 5 or 6 years. Leave the delicate Rolexes for the used car
salesmen (as mentioned in another post).

Hi Honest John,

I think you may yet be closer to the chronocentric truth than anyone
else in that all I wanted when I bought my Datejust was an honest
solid, rugged, reliable no-maintenance timepiece which was as
unpretentious (I can't stand gold plated anything!) as humanly
possible.

At the jewelers fifteen years ago, I looked at the Breitlings, Omegas,
Hamiltons, Seikos, even those museum pieces of overpriced crap; and I
soon settled like glue on the unpretentious heavy solid steel and gold
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust as the watch for the rest of my life
(or so I thought).

In my mind, this was the end of replacing batteries, winding crowns,
broken bands, watchband itch, water-fogged crystals, etc. My use model
was to wear it every day and night - in the hot shower, in the
chlorinated pool, camping in the snow, in welding class, in dancing
class, in skating class, in ground school, in massage class, etc. (I
love learning new things so I'm always taking classes).

Fundamentally, it turned out not to be true that the Rolex was
maintenance free and reliable (in my use model anyway); so, maybe I
should start a new thread asking:

What is the one rugged reliable maintenance free watch I can wear 24/7
for the rest of my natural life which will work in all kinds of
weather, work, and social occasions?

Rusty

wrote:
What is the one rugged reliable maintenance free watch I can wear 24/7
for the rest of my natural life which will work in all kinds of
weather, work, and social occasions?

You might find that two watches would simplify things. There is no
dress watch that will stand up to that sort of punishment (your Datejust
is considered a sport watch rather than a dress watch), and the watch
that will work under all the conditions you've described isn't something
you would wear with a suit.

--
Noah

Frank Adam wrote:
anything that is smaller that the diameter of the hole
and can push that pin in will do.

Thanks. A pin seems strong and small enough. I can easily grind the
point off and put the watch in a maple-edged vise.

Imagine a tube with two pistons inside, being pushed apart
by a coil spring between them.
Kind of like a drum brake slave cylinder, if that helps

Hmmmm... I am very familiar with drum brake slave cylinders.
I didn't realize this, but, are you saying the "spring bar" actually
STAYS in the body of the watch? I *thought* this spring bar was to be
pushed all the way out (like when adjusting a watch band where the
"pin" is basically two arms of a very small half-round cotter pin
folded over to look like a single cylinder.

You'll have to push the pin on one end, while with your third hand
pulling the band (gently) away from the case.

There it is again! Am I to assume with one hand you push in one side of
the spring bar; with the other hand you push in the second side of the
spring bar; and with your third hand, you pull the Jubilee bracelet
away from the lugs on the Datejust watch body?

Would you kindly clarify that the spring bar holding the watch band on
STAYS on the watch body at all times?

This is fascinating!
Rusty

wrote in message
oups.com...

"If I didn't love this Rolex, I wouldn't be trying to take it apart! "

Something doesn't sound right about that statement. It reminds me of the
guy that was convicted of killing his wife and told the judge at sentencing:
If I didn't love her I wouldn't have stabbed her to death. Somehow we, the
alt.horology guys, must impress upon you that the first watch that an
amateur, like yourself, takes apart or works on will be totally destroyed.
This is why Jack rightly suggested that you get a junk watch to work on
first. I say a dozen junk watches (usually for $9.99 on e-bay)
Please don't destroy the one "thing" that you love to have. More than
likely all the watch needs is a good cleaning. The fact that it runs if hit
usually turns out to be some debris or dirt or even a small hair fragment
being moved about inside the movement. I know that you're proud of your
front lawn, and I mine, but I destroyed about 6 watches before I got my
senses attuned to the very delicate touch required to work on a mechanical
watch, and then there's the matter of proper tools. They aren't available
at Wal-Mart. Look I don't know of anybody that will give lessons to a
beginner, but just start your watch fixing adventure on the "other" end of
the watch value spectrum; destroy the cheapies before you "attack" the
expensive personal heirloom

Noah Little wrote
wrote

My use model was to wear it every day and night
- in the hot shower, in the chlorinated pool, camping
in the snow, in welding class, in dancing class, in
skating class, in ground school, in massage class, etc.
(I love learning new things so I'm always taking classes).

What is the one rugged reliable maintenance free watch
I can wear 24/7 for the rest of my natural life which will
work in all kinds of weather, work, and social occasions?

Makes more sense to discard the zero maintenance requirement
and just use an electronic watch that has a good battery life.
If you get the tool that will take the back off, the total cost
would be a vastly lower than that stupid rolex ripoff was.

Probably best to concentrate on one you can change the
'crystal' on yourself too given the way you abuse watches.
Nothing is ever going to be completely maintenance free there.

You might find that two watches would simplify things. There
is no dress watch that will stand up to that sort of punishment
(your Datejust is considered a sport watch rather than a dress
watch), and the watch that will work under all the conditions
you've described isn't something you would wear with a suit.

Some of us arent silly enough to wear suits.

Rod Speed wrote:

Some of us arent silly enough to wear suits.

And some of you aren't smart enough.

--
St. John

I thought this was a home repair newsgroup.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Q: How can I determine the year & model for a classic Rolex watch?

I bought a used pre-sapphire Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Chronometer for about $1800 from a New York jeweler in the early
nineties and I'm just wondering what it is worth. I'm sure that depends
on its age and specific model.

Currently, the most classic of watches is lying in my "to be fixed"
drawer because my kid dropped the watch on the cement a couple of years
ago and the previous repairs ($300 for an adjustment, $800 for a
complete overhaul) are still fresh on my mind as being overly
expensive.

I'm thinking of sending this classic watch in for repair IF (and this
is the reason for the question) if I can then sell it for a reasonable
price thereafter. But what is it worth?

I did a search and found vastly divergent prices ... depending partly
on the model and year - which is why I ask this question of you
experts.

Where do I look to determine the model and year (or other pertinent
information) in a classic Rolex stainless steel & gold Oyster Perpetual
Datejust (just the number, not the day of the week) chronometer?

My only value datapoint was when I walked into a pawn shop in Texas a
few years ago (I had never even 'seen' a pawn shop until I went to
Texas - I thought they were just in the gangster movies) and handed it
to the guy just to see what he'd say it was worth; he took off the band
and looked up the number he found on the crown at that spot and said
sweetly "I'll give you $500 for this" (which is exactly when I realized
that everything in a pawn shop must be stolen because nobody would part
with their Rolex watch for that low a price unless they stole it in the
first place).

So, I can dig up that serial number.
But, then what do I do with that number?

The watch "looks" like that on these pictures I found in my searches:
http://i16.ebayimg.com/02/i/04/3c/e3/db_12_sb.JPG
http://www.swswatches.com/sws/p792a.JPG
http://www.tnsdiamonds.com/Datejust/pg1.jpg

I am pretty sure it does NOT have the sapphire crystal because the
jeweler who sold it to me said it would not fit. I also wonder if I can
get a price for a non-working watch (which is what it is at the moment)
vs a working watch (which would be a simple lookup once I can figure
out the year and model).

In summary, not being a pro, where do I find the appropriate
identification information on my Rolex watch and then where do I look
up the value for it?

Noah Little wrote:
You might find that two watches would simplify things. There is no
dress watch that will stand up to that sort of punishment (your Datejust
is considered a sport watch rather than a dress watch), and the watch
that will work under all the conditions you've described isn't something
you would wear with a suit.

Hi Noah,

Interestingly, as an aside, I *do* have a Rolex dress watch! I didn't
buy it (and I never would have). I received it as a wedding gift from
friends who *thought* I cared about Rolex brand, per se. They didn't
realize my choice of a Rolex Datejust had absolutely nothing to do with
Rolex, as a brand, but more to do with the fact the watch "appeared" to
be solidly maintenance free and ruggedly sturdy.

This particular Rolex (I don't even know what the model is) is a
fragile thin manually wound leather banded delicate "dress watch" which
I keep in the same parts drawer as all my other broken watches. If
anyone doesn't believe me about this useless (to me) Rolex gift, I'd be
glad to photo it in any situation you deem would prove it as I don't
want to go through that ridicule again.

Point is, I do have a dress watch and I think I've worn it once in the
last ten years because I couldn't find my 24/7 watch when I went for an
MRI and they made me go buck naked (which to me means my watch is off
my wrist).

By the way, maybe (later) I *will* ask for your help in identifying
*that* particular dress Rolex; but right now I'm just interested in
taking apart this one to find the answer to these three simple
questions:

#1 What year is this Datejust anyway (for that, I need to remove the
band).
#2 What did I adjust (many years ago) anyway (for that I need to open
it up)
#3 Is it something really basic & simple that my kid broke (ditto
above)

Rusty D.

wrote:
Interestingly, as an aside, I *do* have a Rolex dress watch!

You're set, then. All you need is an everyday watch. That simplifies
things.
--
Noah

"Dutch Buckhead" wrote in message
eenews.net...
|I thought this was a home repair newsgroup.
|

I thought this was a crafts metalworking newsgroup.
or
I thought this was a consumers frugal-living newsgroup.
or
....
Turns out it's a "your watch is as important as your wife so don't
mess with it" newsgroup.

My suggestion to you Rusty is take the d... thing appart and see how
it ticks. If you can't get it back together, take a picture of it in
all its peices and then post a HELP to the horology newsgroup and tell
them some fool in the rec.crafts.metalworking newsgroup made you do
it. That way they may give you some usefull acvice instead of telling
you; you can't do it because you, unlike them, are not a serious
officiado of all things horological.

I must say, I do admire your tenacity. You have stuck it out for quite
some time; as hard as they tried, you have made them give you some
useful information.

--
The Road Warrior Hobbit

no -- it's NOT ok to contact this account with services or other
commercial interests

wrote:

What is the one rugged reliable maintenance free watch I can wear 24/7
for the rest of my natural life which will work in all kinds of
weather, work, and social occasions?=20
=20
Rusty
=20
Perfect watch for me, at least.

http://tinyurl.com/chpeo

--=20
Thanks to spammers
Most of us now use false
ID=92s to cut down on unsolicited
Email.

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 09:28:51 -0500, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

Frank Adam wrote:
...
You'll have to push the pin on one end, while with your third hand
pulling the band (gently) away from the case. Once you dislodge one
end you may think that you could pull the band off the case. Maybe
so, but in my experience those Rolex bands are very good fits and
getting just one side out will not let the band tilt far enough out of
the case. Forcing it off will damage the spring bar.
So, make sure you dislodge both ends of the spring bar. Once that is
done, the band will just pull away.
Hope this helped.

If this guy keeps messing w/ this the value will be zero...

To OP, just take it to a Rolex dealer and all will be known...if you
paid what you say you did, a few hundred can only be a reasonable
investment to attempt to get at least some of the value restored before
it's pass repair or it's thousands. Of course, is there any guarantee
it's not a fake? Perhaps that's what you don't want to know???

Look, i don't really care what he does with what he owns and the watch
is not exactly what i would consider as endangered species. If he
breaks it, so be it. There are thousand, perhaps tens of thousands of
that model out there.

I know very well, that when i had the electronics bug, i used to pull
apart everything that needed(and sometimes not) fixing, despite some
advice not to do so. So for me to tell him what to do would be
downright hypocrisy.

useless anecdotal evidence follows
--------------------------- Tear here -----------------------------

I have ruined a very nice Sony reel to reel once, by replacing those
bloody expensive power transistors myself.. I had to get them from
Sony, as nobody else stocked them, IIRC 45 bucks each (x4).
As it turned out, the transistors obviously went for a reason, but i
didn't find(nor could i, even if i tried) that reason. Buying a
transistor tester obviously doesn't make one into a an electronics
guru. ;-) Anyway lots of smoke was inhaled and the unit fried itself
even a little more. I kinda gave up on that one after that. ;-)
None the less i've enjoyed the time i spent with electronics and even
managed to get some kits together and working. In those days, i would
have told anyone trying to put me off playing with all that, to get
stuffed.

--

Regards, Frank

Following what Frank Adams (a real watchmaker) posted a little bit ago,
I don't care what Rusty does with his watch. He can tar and feather it,
run it over with a back hoe and use the remains as a fishing lure for
all I care.

Mungo, alt.horology is not a "your watch is as important as your wife so
don't mess with it" newsgroup. We gave sound advice but Rusty wants to
put his big fat thumbs where they don't belong.

Richard "it's not my watch" F

Mungo Bulge wrote:

"Dutch Buckhead" wrote in message
eenews.net...
|I thought this was a home repair newsgroup.
|

I thought this was a crafts metalworking newsgroup.
or
I thought this was a consumers frugal-living newsgroup.
or
...
Turns out it's a "your watch is as important as your wife so don't
mess with it" newsgroup.

My suggestion to you Rusty is take the d... thing appart and see how
it ticks. If you can't get it back together, take a picture of it in
all its peices and then post a HELP to the horology newsgroup and tell
them some fool in the rec.crafts.metalworking newsgroup made you do
it. That way they may give you some usefull acvice instead of telling
you; you can't do it because you, unlike them, are not a serious
officiado of all things horological.

I must say, I do admire your tenacity. You have stuck it out for quite
some time; as hard as they tried, you have made them give you some
useful information.

On 20 Jul 2005 12:21:35 -0700, wrote:

Kind of like a drum brake slave cylinder, if that helps
Hmmmm... I am very familiar with drum brake slave cylinders.

Yeah, i noted elsewhere that you may be a mechanic or at least
associated with such work. Since i used to do a lot of semi
professional garage work in my youth, it should be easy to explain
things.
From the fuel pump(auto winder) to the engine(mainspring), to the
gearbox(train wheels), distributor(pallets) and the carby or throttle
system(balance), of course there is the final drive and output shafts,
but we're talking about the suspension now, so let's not waste time..
;-)

There it is again! Am I to assume with one hand you push in one side of
the spring bar; with the other hand you push in the second side of the
spring bar; and with your third hand, you pull the Jubilee bracelet
away from the lugs on the Datejust watch body?

That would be ideal, if only we've had a third hand. I usually
dislodge one side at a time.

Would you kindly clarify that the spring bar holding the watch band on
STAYS on the watch body at all times?

No. It comes out with the band.

I'll try my best ascii drawing

\------------------------------/
______----| |---______
______ | /\/\coil spring\/\/ | ______
----| |---
/------------------------------\

As you can see, the two piston ends are what you can see protruding
through the case. Once they are pushed in, they dislodge from the case
and the band can be pulled off, with the lug remaining inside the
band. It will probably fall out of the band as it clears the case.


--

Regards, Frank

This has nothing to do with seriousness and everything to do with skills. If
I wrote to rec.metalworking " I have no prior backgroud or experience in
metal work except that I once opened a tin can and cut myself. How do I
make a watch case out of a block of platinum?" , I would hope you would tell
me honestly that my changes of sucess were small, that I should learn basic
shop skills before undertaking something so challenging and costly and that
usenet was not the proper place to receive an A to Z education on metal
work. Many times people have written to alt.horology with appropriate
questions and they have received detailed answers but this watch is broken
WAAAY beyond the skills of an amateur. Giving some directions for a job that
they will surely botch is not doing them any favor.



"Mungo Bulge" wrote in message
...
"Dutch Buckhead" wrote in message
eenews.net...
|I thought this was a home repair newsgroup.
|

I thought this was a crafts metalworking newsgroup.
or
I thought this was a consumers frugal-living newsgroup.
or
...
Turns out it's a "your watch is as important as your wife so don't
mess with it" newsgroup.

My suggestion to you Rusty is take the d... thing appart and see how
it ticks. If you can't get it back together, take a picture of it in
all its peices and then post a HELP to the horology newsgroup and tell
them some fool in the rec.crafts.metalworking newsgroup made you do
it. That way they may give you some usefull acvice instead of telling
you; you can't do it because you, unlike them, are not a serious
officiado of all things horological.

I must say, I do admire your tenacity. You have stuck it out for quite
some time; as hard as they tried, you have made them give you some
useful information.

--
The Road Warrior Hobbit

no -- it's NOT ok to contact this account with services or other
commercial interests

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 15:58:09 -0400, "Dutch Buckhead"
wrote:

I thought this was a home repair newsgroup.

All you had to do is ask. Which incidentally, you didn't.

None the less, from now on, i will, and i'm sure everyone else will
remove the x-post to alt.home.repair and form any other group where
it's not welcomed. Agreed guys ?

follow up adjusted accordingly

--

Regards, Frank

And into your deep pile rug where you will be unable to find it. Or better
yet the spring bar will fall apart from corrosion and the spring and ends
will go flying.

This brings us to one of the #1 problems in watchmaking which just
emphasizes what a bitch it is to work on a watch. The parts are really
really tiny and once they fall off your bench (or go flying off under spring
pressure or propelled by your tweezers) it is hell to find them again.
Somewhere in the Bermuda Triangle where all the second socks are, there are
piles of watch parts that have disappeared.

"Frank Adam" wrote in message
...

It [the springbar] will probably fall out of the band as it clears the
case.


--

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 18:39:05 -0400, "Jack Denver"
wrote:

And into your deep pile rug where you will be unable to find it. Or better
yet the spring bar will fall apart from corrosion and the spring and ends
will go flying.

This brings us to one of the #1 problems in watchmaking which just
emphasizes what a bitch it is to work on a watch. The parts are really
really tiny and once they fall off your bench (or go flying off under spring
pressure or propelled by your tweezers) it is hell to find them again.
Somewhere in the Bermuda Triangle where all the second socks are, there are
piles of watch parts that have disappeared.

What is bewildering to me, is that at times a part simply drops off
the bench never to be found. You followed it falling as far as you
could, so you know where it had to land. Sweep up ten times, nada.
You'll generally trip over it, straight after the new part arrives in
the post. :-)

--

Regards, Frank

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 05:39:05 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote:


Makes more sense to discard the zero maintenance requirement
and just use an electronic watch that has a good battery life.
If you get the tool that will take the back off, the total cost
would be a vastly lower than that stupid rolex ripoff was.

Probably best to concentrate on one you can change the
'crystal' on yourself too given the way you abuse watches.
Nothing is ever going to be completely maintenance free there.

Dollarama sells em for a buck
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Frank Adam wrote:

What is bewildering to me, is that at times a part simply drops off
the bench never to be found. You followed it falling as far as you
could, so you know where it had to land. Sweep up ten times, nada.
You'll generally trip over it, straight after the new part arrives in
the post. :-)


yep, 9 times out 10 that happens

Murphy's law

dAz wrote:
Frank Adam wrote:

What is bewildering to me, is that at times a part simply drops off
the bench never to be found. You followed it falling as far as you
could, so you know where it had to land. Sweep up ten times, nada.
You'll generally trip over it, straight after the new part arrives in
the post. :-)


yep, 9 times out 10 that happens

Murphy's law
Hi,
I drop another one to trace first one.
Chance of recovering both is 50-50, LOL.
Tony