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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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I am putting the finishing touches on my homebuilt generator set. I'm
working on a larger fuel tank then the one installed on the ChangFa diesel engine. I've acquired an old 30 gal air compressor tank that is in very good shape. I'm trying to figure out where or what I could use for a fuel neck. I would like to be able to have a strainer/filter (copper mesh type) in the filler neck. Does anybody know where I could find something like this or what I could use to make this. I would need to be able to weld this to the tank. This tank is a hardy looking tank, thick metal. Since this will be holding diesel fuel, and diesel has a tendency of absorbing moisture, would it be a good idea to install a feed tube from the bottom of the tank up into the tank a few inches (above the water) and install another petcock, level with the bottom of the tank for draining of accumulated moisture from time to time? I will pressure test the tank for leaks, once I am finished. Any other tips/advice? -- A7N8X-Deluxe, AMD XP2500+ (Un-locked) 2x256mb Crucial PC3200 DDR ram Palit-Daytona Ti4200/64M AGP |
#2
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![]() "SomeBody" wrote in message news ![]() I am putting the finishing touches on my homebuilt generator set. I'm working on a larger fuel tank then the one installed on the ChangFa diesel engine. I've acquired an old 30 gal air compressor tank that is in very good shape. I'm trying to figure out where or what I could use for a fuel neck. I would like to be able to have a strainer/filter (copper mesh type) in the filler neck. Does anybody know where I could find something like this or what I could use to make this. I would need to be able to weld this to the tank. This tank is a hardy looking tank, thick metal. Since this will be holding diesel fuel, and diesel has a tendency of absorbing moisture, would it be a good idea to install a feed tube from the bottom of the tank up into the tank a few inches (above the water) and install another petcock, level with the bottom of the tank for draining of accumulated moisture from time to time? I will pressure test the tank for leaks, once I am finished. Any other tips/advice? I think your idea of a drain valve to remove accumulated moisture is good, but it need not be large. It would be wise to make it difficult to turn, too, unless your generator is where there isn't access by idle hands. Why not use a piece of pipe, with a pipe cap, for a filler? Something on the order of semi tanks. You could even use a brass cap if desired. You could easily build a screen assembly that fits in the neck, one that could be removed for cleaning if necessary. No big deal, really. If push gets to shove, you could check with a tank manufacturer that builds heating oil tanks. They have a very nice filler, one that you'd probably like, although it lacks the screen you'd like. Harold |
#3
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SomeBody wrote:
Does anybody know where I could find something like this or what I could use to make this. You could get some nice fittings (not whimpsy) at shops that build heating-oil-tanks for (your) house. Nick -- Motormodelle / Engine Models: http://www.motor-manufaktur.de Ellwe 2FB * VTM 87 * DLM-S3a * cubic more to come ... |
#4
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SomeBody wrote:
I am putting the finishing touches on my homebuilt generator set. I'm working on a larger fuel tank then the one installed on the ChangFa diesel engine. I've acquired an old 30 gal air compressor tank that is in very good shape. I'm trying to figure out where or what I could use for a fuel neck. I would like to be able to have a strainer/filter (copper mesh type) in the filler neck. Does anybody know where I could find something like this or what I could use to make this. I would need to be able to weld this to the tank. This tank is a hardy looking tank, thick metal. Since this will be holding diesel fuel, and diesel has a tendency of absorbing moisture, would it be a good idea to install a feed tube from the bottom of the tank up into the tank a few inches (above the water) and install another petcock, level with the bottom of the tank for draining of accumulated moisture from time to time? I will pressure test the tank for leaks, once I am finished. Any other tips/advice? How about a hydraulic tank filler neck? http://www.vescor.com/hydraulic_acc48.htm |
#6
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![]() "SomeBody" wrote in message news ![]() I am putting the finishing touches on my homebuilt generator set. I'm working on a larger fuel tank then the one installed on the ChangFa diesel engine. I've acquired an old 30 gal air compressor tank that is in very good shape. I'm trying to figure out where or what I could use for a fuel neck. I would like to be able to have a strainer/filter (copper mesh type) in the filler neck. A strainer filter in the filler neck? I don't think this will be worth the effort as it will restrict the inflow. Since this is a stationary engine (or at least one you wond be driving to the filling station) this can be a real annoyance holding a 5 gallon can and trying to pour slow. The screen/mesh will only get the big chunks anyway. I think I would look for a semi truck fuel filter. When I drove a truck, they had a big filter with a clear cylinder. The level of the fuel in the cylinder gave you a real good indication of how much your filter was fetting clogged. On my Mercedes they use two filters. One is an inline to screen out particulate matter and then the canister that gets the water, slimy stuff and the fines. Neither the trucks or the Mercedes had any inflow restriction. I like the pipe cap idea, also think about venting and head space. Or another idea might be to look for a truck wrecking yard for a fuel tank for a refer trailer. That will have everything you need and since these do not tend to get worn out or screwed up you might get one cheap. -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff. |
#7
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On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 07:13:59 GMT, SomeBody
wrote: I've acquired an old 30 gal air compressor tank that is in very good shape. I'm trying to figure out where or what I could use for a fuel neck. I would like to be able to have a strainer/filter (copper mesh type) in the filler neck. Most Japanese tractors have a fuel strainer in the filler neck, usually plastic, but they work. Try your nearest farm supply. An alternative is a Toyota Coaster fuel tank from a wrecker, holds 95 litres (20.8 real gallons or 25 microgallons) Alan in beautiful Golden Bay, Western Oz, South 32.25.42, East 115.45.44 GMT+8 VK6 YAB ICQ 6581610 to reply, change oz to au in address |
#8
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On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 09:27:11 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote:
In article , says... [quoted text muted] Hydraulic tank filler/breather, McMaster p/n 4473k22, for example. [quoted text muted] Household fuel oil tanks draw from the bottom of the tank and rely on the inline filter to remove water. The filter is less than $20 and a new element annually is less than $5. Ned Simmons. I live in humid Florida and will be storing +30 gal of diesel fuel for backup situations during hurricane season, I am concerned with the water absorption capability of diesel fuel. I like the idea of adding an inline fuel/water filter element and using a standard pipe with a cap for the filler neck. Next question is the type of filter element to use. My current fuel tank sits onto of the engine, A ChangFa single cyl, 22hp Diesel engine and is gravity feed (?), not sure on this gravity feed. The engine manual shows an filling screen in the filler neck, an inline primary fuel filter, then a small cannister type fuel filter and then into the Fuel injector pump. Is a fuel injector pump the same thing as a fuel pump, pulling fuel from the tank? or is this just to inject the gravity feed fuel into the head? Someone had mentioned something from McMaster-Carr, # 4340K32. Could this be used in a gravity feed system? thanks. -- A7N8X-Deluxe, AMD XP2500+ (Un-locked) 2x256mb Crucial PC3200 DDR ram Palit-Daytona Ti4200/64M AGP |
#9
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On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 07:13:59 GMT, SomeBody
wrote: Does anybody know where I could find something like this or what I could use to make this. I would need to be able to weld this to the tank. This tank is a hardy looking tank, thick metal. I was going to cut the filler neck of my existing ChangFa tank, and tig weld it to the new tank.... I figure I'll never have a use for the old tank.. Take Care, James Lerch http://lerch.no-ip.com/atm (My telescope construction, Testing, and Coating site) http://lerch.no-ip.com/ChangFa_Gen (My 15Kw generator project) Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perseverance. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. Calvin Coolidge |
#10
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Just keep the tank filled up to the top to avoid condensation and you
shouldn't have a water problem unless it's outdoors in the rain and the cap is loose. "SomeBody" wrote in message news ![]() On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 09:27:11 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote: In article , says... [quoted text muted] Hydraulic tank filler/breather, McMaster p/n 4473k22, for example. [quoted text muted] Household fuel oil tanks draw from the bottom of the tank and rely on the inline filter to remove water. The filter is less than $20 and a new element annually is less than $5. Ned Simmons. I live in humid Florida and will be storing +30 gal of diesel fuel for backup situations during hurricane season, I am concerned with the water absorption capability of diesel fuel. I like the idea of adding an inline fuel/water filter element and using a standard pipe with a cap for the filler neck. Next question is the type of filter element to use. My current fuel tank sits onto of the engine, A ChangFa single cyl, 22hp Diesel engine and is gravity feed (?), not sure on this gravity feed. The engine manual shows an filling screen in the filler neck, an inline primary fuel filter, then a small cannister type fuel filter and then into the Fuel injector pump. Is a fuel injector pump the same thing as a fuel pump, pulling fuel from the tank? or is this just to inject the gravity feed fuel into the head? Someone had mentioned something from McMaster-Carr, # 4340K32. Could this be used in a gravity feed system? thanks. -- A7N8X-Deluxe, AMD XP2500+ (Un-locked) 2x256mb Crucial PC3200 DDR ram Palit-Daytona Ti4200/64M AGP |
#11
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In article ,
SomeBody wrote: On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 09:27:11 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote: In article , says... [quoted text muted] Hydraulic tank filler/breather, McMaster p/n 4473k22, for example. [quoted text muted] Household fuel oil tanks draw from the bottom of the tank and rely on the inline filter to remove water. The filter is less than $20 and a new element annually is less than $5. Ned Simmons. I live in humid Florida and will be storing +30 gal of diesel fuel for backup situations during hurricane season, I am concerned with the water absorption capability of diesel fuel. Is there any reason why fuel line deicer (use in automobiles) wouldn't work, at least to handle the residual water? The deicer is simply a can of alcohol. The resulting alcohol-water solution dissolves to some extent in gasoline, and in any case flows through the engine without causing difficulty. That said, there has to be a maximum amount of water that can be handled this way. Joe Gwinn |
#12
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But the resulting water alcohol slurry does NOT disolve in diesel or
kerosene type products. I had to completely empty and clean my kerosene heater tank after getting some water in it. Adding alcohol just made the water into smaller drops, looked like fish eggs in the bottom of the tank. Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , SomeBody wrote: On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 09:27:11 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote: In article , says... [quoted text muted] Hydraulic tank filler/breather, McMaster p/n 4473k22, for example. [quoted text muted] Household fuel oil tanks draw from the bottom of the tank and rely on the inline filter to remove water. The filter is less than $20 and a new element annually is less than $5. Ned Simmons. I live in humid Florida and will be storing +30 gal of diesel fuel for backup situations during hurricane season, I am concerned with the water absorption capability of diesel fuel. Is there any reason why fuel line deicer (use in automobiles) wouldn't work, at least to handle the residual water? The deicer is simply a can of alcohol. The resulting alcohol-water solution dissolves to some extent in gasoline, and in any case flows through the engine without causing difficulty. That said, there has to be a maximum amount of water that can be handled this way. Joe Gwinn |
#13
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SomeBody wrote:
The engine manual shows an filling screen in the filler neck, an inline primary fuel filter, then a small cannister type fuel filter and then into the Fuel injector pump. Water doesnt pass a filter if it (the filter) is wettened by fuel. It just collects on the intake side. Is a fuel injector pump the same thing as a fuel pump, pulling fuel from the tank? or is this just to inject the gravity feed fuel into the head? No, an injector pump is a high precission part (1/1000 mm range) that injects the fuel into the combustion camper with about 50 to 100 atm. Do never ever remove the filters in a Diesel engine. The injector will be ruined by time. If humidy is such a big concern, I would - keep the tank full - add a little reed valve ('bout 1mm hole, backed up by some easily opening rubber). This way the tank can not breathe but will have a bit pressure. If the engine is running, you will have a little vacuum in the tank. You just have to pay attention that the reed valve opens _easily_ or the tank will collapse by vacuum. - maybe add an extra filter of the tipe used in cars in front of the carb. regulary check it for water and clean. HTH, Nick -- Motormodelle / Engine Models: http://www.motor-manufaktur.de Ellwe 2FB * VTM 87 * DLM-S3a * cubic more to come ... |
#14
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Tony wrote:
Just keep the tank filled up to the top to avoid condensation and you shouldn't have a water problem unless it's outdoors in the rain and the cap is loose. That's the reason for diesel tanks seeming to absorb water, people aren't keeping them full. Water problems are noticed sooner in a diesel too.. Never put alcohol in the tank, you don't want the injector pump to not have perfect lubrication for an instant. Get a quality fuel filter from a truck dealer or parts house, they're about the best filters available and not too expensive. Filters meant for dealing with heating oil don't compare for quality of function. Make sure you put the return line from the injectors at the top of the tank, in the neck is best. If you put it where it's below the fuel level then eventually you'll find a cylinder full of fuel when you try to start the motor, due to a leaking injector. Dishsoap will cause water and fuel oil to mix, I don't recommend it except for cleaning a filter in an emergency. I use it in the tanks of my gasoline powered machines when they have water, works well. John |
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