Hey Folks,

I just purchased a Sheldon/Vernon horizontal mill
(http://www.lathes.co.uk/sheldon/page8.html) and I need the horizontal
spindle and outboard support. Does anyone know where I might find these
or have a machine that they are parting out and would like to sell me
these items? I figure the spindle could possibly be made but the
outboard support may be difficult to duplicate. Also, if anyone has a
parts manual or operators manual in PDF it would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Dan
Seattle WA

Dan Miller wrote:

Hey Folks,

I just purchased a Sheldon/Vernon horizontal mill
(http://www.lathes.co.uk/sheldon/page8.html) and I need the horizontal
spindle and outboard support. ...

By any chance do you mean "arbor" instead of "spindle"? Arbors are much
more easily made than spindles. Bob

yep, sorry, I need an arbor or even several. I may make one but with my
level of expertise I think finding a used one, or currently manufactured
one for a different mill would be more accurate than I can make. I think
it has a Brown and Sharp taper but would appreciate if someone could
confirm this. Seems like there must be another machine that uses the
same taper and makes a similar arbor. Anyone? Anyone?

Also the overarm bracket is missing so I need to either make or acquire
one as well.

Thanks for the clarification Bob, again any help would be appreciated.

Dan


Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Dan Miller wrote:

Hey Folks,

I just purchased a Sheldon/Vernon horizontal mill
(http://www.lathes.co.uk/sheldon/page8.html) and I need the
horizontal spindle and outboard support. ...


By any chance do you mean "arbor" instead of "spindle"? Arbors are
much more easily made than spindles. Bob

Hi Dan,

I bought one recently myself. Does yours have the epicyclic gearing on
the spindle? Mine doesn't, but is the "toolroom" model for whatever
thats worth. Its a nice unit, I'm in the midst of converting to vfd-
not tearing the drum switches apart, just hotwiring the fwd/rev for fwd
and running the vfd control to the switch instead.

The Yahoo groups sheldon group has the horizontal mill manual and a few
of the denizens also have the units.

Someplace on the internet is a site for a guy who did a R-8 conversion
to his Sheldon mill, which is a nice idea. The machine is supposed to
take BS-9, don't know if there were other tapers offered. For the sizes
involved, making an arbor would be a nice lathe project- except for the
long keyway...

I have the overarm bracket and can take measurements if you're inclined
to try making one. The OEM one isn't particularly strange, but is
rigged with a nice bushing for the arbor.


Gregm


Dan Miller writes:
yep, sorry, I need an arbor or even several. I may make one but with my
level of expertise I think finding a used one, or currently manufactured
one for a different mill would be more accurate than I can make. I think
it has a Brown and Sharp taper but would appreciate if someone could
confirm this. Seems like there must be another machine that uses the
same taper and makes a similar arbor. Anyone? Anyone?

Also the overarm bracket is missing so I need to either make or acquire
one as well.

Thanks for the clarification Bob, again any help would be appreciated.

Dan


Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Dan Miller wrote:

Hey Folks,

I just purchased a Sheldon/Vernon horizontal mill
(http://www.lathes.co.uk/sheldon/page8.html) and I need the
horizontal spindle and outboard support. ...


By any chance do you mean "arbor" instead of "spindle"? Arbors are
much more easily made than spindles. Bob

Dan Miller wrote:

Also the overarm bracket is missing so I need to either make or acquire
one as well.


I have a Vernon overarm support, and need a Hardinge support. Can we
trade?
Seriously, I can probably fix you up.

Kevin Gallimore

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Hi Kevin,

Wish I had a Hardinge support to trade you. Send me an e-mail back
channel and let me know what you want for it. I'll
keep my eye out for a Hardinge support.

Dan

axolotl wrote:

Dan Miller wrote:

Also the overarm bracket is missing so I need to either make or
acquire one as well.



I have a Vernon overarm support, and need a Hardinge support. Can we
trade?
Seriously, I can probably fix you up.

Kevin Gallimore

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Hi Greg,

No, mine doesn't have the epicyclic gearing. It has pretty much the
simplest speed control they made, but at least it is all there and seems
to be functional. It did come with a vertical Rusnok model 70 head which
is sweet, and why I bought it despite no overarm bracket or arbors. The
electricals are pretty complex on mine. The motor for the horizontal
spindle is the original and is 3 phase but the motor for the rusnok is
single phase...not sure if it's original or not. So the USAF put an
elaborate starter box and switch on the side. The components are
probably worth something but personally I'd rather have the simple
straightforward drum switches. Does yours have the power feed and
coolant tank? Those seem like nice accessories.

Thanks for the info on the Yahoo group, I joined yesterday and
downloaded a manual. I'll ask some questions there if I don't get the
answer's I need here.

Dan

Greg Menke wrote:

Hi Dan,

I bought one recently myself. Does yours have the epicyclic gearing on
the spindle? Mine doesn't, but is the "toolroom" model for whatever
thats worth. Its a nice unit, I'm in the midst of converting to vfd-
not tearing the drum switches apart, just hotwiring the fwd/rev for fwd
and running the vfd control to the switch instead.

The Yahoo groups sheldon group has the horizontal mill manual and a few
of the denizens also have the units.

Someplace on the internet is a site for a guy who did a R-8 conversion
to his Sheldon mill, which is a nice idea. The machine is supposed to
take BS-9, don't know if there were other tapers offered. For the sizes
involved, making an arbor would be a nice lathe project- except for the
long keyway...

I have the overarm bracket and can take measurements if you're inclined
to try making one. The OEM one isn't particularly strange, but is
rigged with a nice bushing for the arbor.


Gregm


Dan Miller writes:


yep, sorry, I need an arbor or even several. I may make one but with my
level of expertise I think finding a used one, or currently manufactured
one for a different mill would be more accurate than I can make. I think
it has a Brown and Sharp taper but would appreciate if someone could
confirm this. Seems like there must be another machine that uses the
same taper and makes a similar arbor. Anyone? Anyone?

Also the overarm bracket is missing so I need to either make or acquire
one as well.

Thanks for the clarification Bob, again any help would be appreciated.

Dan


Bob Engelhardt wrote:



Dan Miller wrote:



Hey Folks,

I just purchased a Sheldon/Vernon horizontal mill
(http://www.lathes.co.uk/sheldon/page8.html) and I need the
horizontal spindle and outboard support. ...


By any chance do you mean "arbor" instead of "spindle"? Arbors are
much more easily made than spindles. Bob

Dan Miller writes:

Hi Greg,

No, mine doesn't have the epicyclic gearing. It has pretty much the
simplest speed control they made, but at least it is all there and seems
to be functional. It did come with a vertical Rusnok model 70 head which
is sweet, and why I bought it despite no overarm bracket or arbors. The
electricals are pretty complex on mine. The motor for the horizontal
spindle is the original and is 3 phase but the motor for the rusnok is
single phase...not sure if it's original or not. So the USAF put an
elaborate starter box and switch on the side. The components are
probably worth something but personally I'd rather have the simple
straightforward drum switches. Does yours have the power feed and
coolant tank? Those seem like nice accessories.

Small world, mine has a US Navy inventory tag but the table was
overhauled by the Army. Did a nice job of it too, the machine is in
fantastic shape end to end. Its a very basic unit as far as accessories
go, no snazzy starter, power feeds or coolant hardware- but it has the
later model variable pulleys and a 2nd drum switch to select hi/low
speed. I don't have the vertical head, but I did get 2 arbors with it.

Lacking the head I've been sniffing around for a Bridgeport C or R head
to set up as an accessory- found a couple C heads so far but they've
been a little too expensive w/ shipping.


Thanks for the info on the Yahoo group, I joined yesterday and
downloaded a manual. I'll ask some questions there if I don't get the
answer's I need here.

Good luck! The yahoo board is quite helpful though mostly its lathe
owners there.

Greg

On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 19:07:58 -0700, Dan Miller
wrote:

Hey Folks,

I just purchased a Sheldon/Vernon horizontal mill
(http://www.lathes.co.uk/sheldon/page8.html) and I need the horizontal
spindle and outboard support. Does anyone know where I might find these
or have a machine that they are parting out and would like to sell me
these items? I figure the spindle could possibly be made but the
outboard support may be difficult to duplicate. Also, if anyone has a
parts manual or operators manual in PDF it would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Dan
Seattle WA
Dan- it sounds like you are talking about the arbor. This is the part
that that holds the cutters. If that's so, then the arbor should be
available from tool suppliers like MSC. The spindle is enclosed
completely by the machine casting except for about 1//4" in the front
and about 5" in the back where the drive pulley for the power feed is
moiunted. I have a Vernon mill. And another fellow I know owns one
made by the same company but it is larger and has a different brand
name. Both of these machines used Brown & Sharpe taper arbors. #9 I
think. However, it turns out that this taper is smaller than R8 taper.
So, I modified my spindle and his to accept the more common R8
tooling. If you go this route then you can use either an arbor with
the R8 taper or one with a straight shank that fits into an R8 collet.
The R8 specs can be found at the same site you mentioned. (I think).
If not there these specs are easy to find using google. The spindle
must be removed from the machine to change the taper unless you have a
slide that you can bolt to the mill table. If you decide to change the
taper in a lathe (easiest) then you should chuck up the spindle where
the bearings run at the back of the spindle and use a steady rest at
the front where the bearings run. Make sure the the spindle runs true
at the chuck. This method will insure that the new taper runs dead on.
Eric R Snow,
E T Precision Machine

Hi Eric,

My ears are burning. I have recently acquired a Burke #4 horizontal
mill. It has A B&S #9 spindle. I'm in the process of clean-up and
replacing the drive belt so my spindle is off.

I'm wondering if I should modify the spindle to R8. Eric is this a
modification you would be willing to do again for a fee?

Thanks --- Rick in SF Bay Area

On 28 Jun 2005 09:40:27 -0700, "fe_rick"
wrote:

Hi Eric,

My ears are burning. I have recently acquired a Burke #4 horizontal
mill. It has A B&S #9 spindle. I'm in the process of clean-up and
replacing the drive belt so my spindle is off.

I'm wondering if I should modify the spindle to R8. Eric is this a
modification you would be willing to do again for a fee?

Thanks --- Rick in SF Bay Area
Greetings Rick,
Maybe. I'm really busy right now. Busy with commercial jobs in my
shop. Also, I don't know how hard you're spindle is. The Vernon mill
spindles I did were not that hard, so machining with carbide worked
well. You would need to see how hard your spindle is. If a file cuts
it then it would be machinable with carbide tools. However, do you
have a lathe? If so, this would be a good project to learn how to
check tapers, learn how to make something run really true on the
lathe, and gain the confidence to tackle jobs that you wouldn't have
done in the past. I will be happy to guide you through the method I
used to machine the spindles. My way is not the only way, but it is
the way I like to do this type of work. Other people will no doubt
have different methods that they feel are just as good.
Eric

"Greg Menke" wrote in message
...

Hi Dan,

(snip)

. The machine is supposed to
take BS-9, don't know if there were other tapers offered. For the sizes
involved, making an arbor would be a nice lathe project- except for the
long keyway...
(snip
. Bob

I'm doing just that for my B&S mill which has a (surprise) B&S #9 taper. I
did luck out on my mill in that it came with a B&S to Morse adapter, so I
was able to use Morse taper end mills holders right from the start. So the
key way is cut by the mill itself . The only fussy part I ran into was
shaping the "key " (driver?) on the end of the arbor so it fit the spindle.
Started milling it and ended up grinding and filing. But it works!
Make a holder for a keyway cutter as your first project, then use that to
mill the keyways on the arbors. Buy nuts and spacers from MSC and once you
have your overarm all the specs are right there.

John

Eric,

I like your suggestion. I do have a lathe and I need a project that
helps me learn to do more accurate work. What I might do is fabricate
an arbor first. That way, I won't be so worried about wrecking the
spindle to my mill. I did just run a file across the spindle and it
cuts pretty easily.

My lathe doesn't have a taper attachment, but when I get to that point,
our local high school has a dozen lathes with assorted attachments and
capabilities.

I also have 7/8" arbor with a B&S #9 taper that I can use as a model. I
would love to have a 1" arbor - there seems to be a lot more used
horizontal mill cutters available for 1" arbors...

Look forward to hearing your thoughts/suggestions.

Thanks - Rick

Well when everybody gets done converting their BS9 tapers to R8 then I
guess there will be some BS9 arbors for sale....cheap?? ;-) Please keep
my e-mail handy! I just don't have the confidence to start cutting on my
spindle yet....maybe some day. I'd much rather make tooling to fit the
current taper. I'd consider having someone do it for me
though....perhaps we can submit a batch job as a group and save on setup
costs etc.

Eric, you mentioned MSC but I can only find standard taper arbors at
their site. Do you have a link to a BS9 taper arbor sold commercially? I
would think these would be long outdated.

Dan

fe_rick wrote:

Eric,

I like your suggestion. I do have a lathe and I need a project that
helps me learn to do more accurate work. What I might do is fabricate
an arbor first. That way, I won't be so worried about wrecking the
spindle to my mill. I did just run a file across the spindle and it
cuts pretty easily.

My lathe doesn't have a taper attachment, but when I get to that point,
our local high school has a dozen lathes with assorted attachments and
capabilities.

I also have 7/8" arbor with a B&S #9 taper that I can use as a model. I
would love to have a 1" arbor - there seems to be a lot more used
horizontal mill cutters available for 1" arbors...

Look forward to hearing your thoughts/suggestions.

Thanks - Rick

Haven't called them in some time - had great service when I did -

Grand Tool supply - has B&S Taper arbors...arbors of many sizes and types.
Page 239 is the B&S taper milling machine arbors 3 each in the BS9 size.
800 866 5730 or 201 342 6900 http://www.grandtool.com/index.html

only sales things on the www site - can order catalog - ...

Martin

Dan Miller wrote:
Well when everybody gets done converting their BS9 tapers to R8 then I
guess there will be some BS9 arbors for sale....cheap?? ;-) Please keep
my e-mail handy! I just don't have the confidence to start cutting on my
spindle yet....maybe some day. I'd much rather make tooling to fit the
current taper. I'd consider having someone do it for me
though....perhaps we can submit a batch job as a group and save on setup
costs etc.

Eric, you mentioned MSC but I can only find standard taper arbors at
their site. Do you have a link to a BS9 taper arbor sold commercially? I
would think these would be long outdated.

Dan

fe_rick wrote:

Eric,

I like your suggestion. I do have a lathe and I need a project that
helps me learn to do more accurate work. What I might do is fabricate
an arbor first. That way, I won't be so worried about wrecking the
spindle to my mill. I did just run a file across the spindle and it
cuts pretty easily.

My lathe doesn't have a taper attachment, but when I get to that point,
our local high school has a dozen lathes with assorted attachments and
capabilities.

I also have 7/8" arbor with a B&S #9 taper that I can use as a model. I
would love to have a 1" arbor - there seems to be a lot more used
horizontal mill cutters available for 1" arbors...

Look forward to hearing your thoughts/suggestions.

Thanks - Rick





--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

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Hi Greg,

You can hit me back channel if you think this is getting off topic but
I'm curious what you know about VFD's and what you would recommend for
my mill. Currently I have a single phase motor on the Rusnok head and a
3 phase 1hp on the horizontal spindle. Seems like the easiest way to go
(and keep the original 3 phase motor) is to add a VFD but I don't know
the first thing about doing this.

Thanks

Dan

Greg Menke wrote:

Hi Dan,

I bought one recently myself. Does yours have the epicyclic gearing on
the spindle? Mine doesn't, but is the "toolroom" model for whatever
thats worth. Its a nice unit, I'm in the midst of converting to vfd-
not tearing the drum switches apart, just hotwiring the fwd/rev for fwd
and running the vfd control to the switch instead.

The Yahoo groups sheldon group has the horizontal mill manual and a few
of the denizens also have the units.

Someplace on the internet is a site for a guy who did a R-8 conversion
to his Sheldon mill, which is a nice idea. The machine is supposed to
take BS-9, don't know if there were other tapers offered. For the sizes
involved, making an arbor would be a nice lathe project- except for the
long keyway...

I have the overarm bracket and can take measurements if you're inclined
to try making one. The OEM one isn't particularly strange, but is
rigged with a nice bushing for the arbor.


Gregm


Dan Miller writes:


yep, sorry, I need an arbor or even several. I may make one but with my
level of expertise I think finding a used one, or currently manufactured
one for a different mill would be more accurate than I can make. I think
it has a Brown and Sharp taper but would appreciate if someone could
confirm this. Seems like there must be another machine that uses the
same taper and makes a similar arbor. Anyone? Anyone?

Also the overarm bracket is missing so I need to either make or acquire
one as well.

Thanks for the clarification Bob, again any help would be appreciated.

Dan


Bob Engelhardt wrote:



Dan Miller wrote:



Hey Folks,

I just purchased a Sheldon/Vernon horizontal mill
(http://www.lathes.co.uk/sheldon/page8.html) and I need the
horizontal spindle and outboard support. ...


By any chance do you mean "arbor" instead of "spindle"? Arbors are
much more easily made than spindles. Bob

Hi Eric,

I replied yesterday, but I think it was lost somewhere...

Thanks for your generous offer. I've given it some thought. I do have a
lathe and it would be a great project for me to learn more. The spindle
on my Burke #4 does cut easily with a file.

I do have some worrys about ruining my spindle. So, I'm thinking it
would be good practice to first try and fabricate a new arbor. The only
one I have is a 7/8". A 1" arbor would be nice - easier to find used
cutters. I can use my 7/8" as a model. While I would be creating the
outside taper of a B&S #9 instead of an inside taper of R8, it would
seem that some of the same principles apply.

Let me know your thoughts or suggestions. I don't have a taper
attachment for my lathe. In a couple of months I'll have access again
to several lathes at our local high school. My 10" logan does have a
steady rest and an assortment of chucks.

Thanks,

- Rick

On 28 Jun 2005 19:40:10 -0700, "fe_rick"
wrote:

Eric,

I like your suggestion. I do have a lathe and I need a project that
helps me learn to do more accurate work. What I might do is fabricate
an arbor first. That way, I won't be so worried about wrecking the
spindle to my mill. I did just run a file across the spindle and it
cuts pretty easily.

My lathe doesn't have a taper attachment, but when I get to that point,
our local high school has a dozen lathes with assorted attachments and
capabilities.

I also have 7/8" arbor with a B&S #9 taper that I can use as a model. I
would love to have a 1" arbor - there seems to be a lot more used
horizontal mill cutters available for 1" arbors...

Look forward to hearing your thoughts/suggestions.

Thanks - Rick


The B&S tapers are very easy to make if your tailstock is offsetable.
IRRC, the taper is .5" per foot.

I sold several mills in the last couple years, both a Vernon and an
Index and several others, and have made both endmill holders and
collets on a basic lathe. Very very easy to do by simply setting the
tailstock over. It takes a bit of futzing around to the the right
angle..but then you can make any number of blanks and later bore them
for whatever application you need.

Making collets is extremely easy, particularly if you have a slitting
saw and arbor to fit your mill.

I like to make em this way:

Turn a proper lump of material to .50 over max diameter (if you have a
5 C collet, this is really easy) and 1" over length

Place turned round in collet or 4 jaw and indicate to run true.
Drill and then bore to .0005 over the nominal sizes, typically 1/4,
3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4.

Make several blanks with a simple pilot hole in the center..say .250
for future special tooling etc.

If you are making end mill holders, use stock that is at least .5,
preferably .75 bigger than the large end diameter. This allows you to
have some place to cross drill for a set screw for your endmill.

Set up a dead center in both spindle and tailstock.
If you have an existing holder, place it between centers and offset
the tailstock so a dial indicator attached to the lathe carraige
indicates Zero along the length of the holders taper.

Turn one of your blanks to the taper. measure both ends for proper
dimensions and tweak the tailstock accordingly. Trig helps

Mark the spindle and the 1" extra length (at the large end), and try
it in the actual spindle of the miller. A bit of prussian blue inside
the spindle taper will help show up any high or low spots, or a taper
a smidge outside of nominal. Replace the blank aligning the marks and
correct tailstock offset if necessary and repeat the turn as
necessary. If you go a bit deep, it only makes the taper go deeper in
the spindle..hence that 1" overlong.

Then turn your collets to the proper taper. I like to relieve the
center of the collet/Holder .50, leaving a 1-1.5" band on both ends.
Dont relieve if you are going to use it for extra heavy hogging.


Place collet between centers on miller and using slitting saw..cut 3
or 4 slots 2" long on the fat end of the collet. Repeat for others.

Place collet back in lathe, using the excess length on fat end to hold
on, and spot drill then drill and tap for draw bolt thread.

Chuck each collet in mill spindle, and using a cut off tool bolted to
a block of scrap, part off the excess end stick out, leaving at least
..375, using the tables travel to feed the cut off tool.

You can use the vise and a couple parallels to hold the cut off tool.
If making endmill holders, put a lathe tool in your vise, and face and
chamfer or profile the end of the end mill holder to your taste. I
like to make the stick out square, so I can hold it in drill press
vise for drilling and tapping the set screw hole(s).

Once you set up the tailstock setover, you can wack out a couple dozen
blanks easily and quickly and do your second ops later as you need.

If you want to be fancy and are comfortable..you can even turn a taper
on the end for a Jacobs drill chuck.

You may wish to case harden them, or simply leave em plain. Ive made
and used both and while the cased one is harder..the uncased ones dont
seem to wear at all in normal use.

I like to make up 4-6 of them with oversized ends, then drill and bore
for 1" and 7/8" /dead nuts and then turn a horizontal arbor to 1" and
one to 7/8", slot with endmill or horizontal cutter to proper key
depth (not required on most small millers), then either press the
arbor into the holder blank, or silver solder them together.

Two part horizontal mill arbors are very easy to make this way and
have minimal runout if you are careful.

I used some hot rolled bar stock, and some 303 bar stock and made up
24 blanks. I then made up a full set of end mill holders and a full
set of collets, all in the same day, and had blanks left over to make
up just about anything I wanted later on. Some got turned into
horizontal mill arbors, others into drill chucks, others were bored
for both MT2 and MT3 adapters.

Its very easy, though getting the taper correct is a bit fidity..but
once you do..you can, as Ive mentioned above, wack out a bunch and
have full sets for little or no money.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

In article , Gunner says...

If you go a bit deep, it only makes the taper go deeper in
the spindle..hence that 1" overlong.

LOL. Sometimes it takes me a while to really converge
on it accurately - I've been known to use up most of that
inch or so (and be sweating the final outcome) especially
for MT stuff.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

On 28 Jun 2005 19:40:10 -0700, "fe_rick"
wrote:

Eric,

I like your suggestion. I do have a lathe and I need a project that
helps me learn to do more accurate work. What I might do is fabricate
an arbor first. That way, I won't be so worried about wrecking the
spindle to my mill. I did just run a file across the spindle and it
cuts pretty easily.

My lathe doesn't have a taper attachment, but when I get to that point,
our local high school has a dozen lathes with assorted attachments and
capabilities.

I also have 7/8" arbor with a B&S #9 taper that I can use as a model. I
would love to have a 1" arbor - there seems to be a lot more used
horizontal mill cutters available for 1" arbors...

Look forward to hearing your thoughts/suggestions.

Thanks - Rick
Rick,
You don't need the taper attachment. The R8 taper is short enough to
turn the taper with the compound.
Eric

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 19:55:19 -0700, Dan Miller
wrote:

Well when everybody gets done converting their BS9 tapers to R8 then I
guess there will be some BS9 arbors for sale....cheap?? ;-) Please keep
my e-mail handy! I just don't have the confidence to start cutting on my
spindle yet....maybe some day. I'd much rather make tooling to fit the
current taper. I'd consider having someone do it for me
though....perhaps we can submit a batch job as a group and save on setup
costs etc.

Eric, you mentioned MSC but I can only find standard taper arbors at
their site. Do you have a link to a BS9 taper arbor sold commercially? I
would think these would be long outdated.
No Dan, I don't. I just figured they would have one. Try Rutland,
Enco, and google.
Eric
Dan

fe_rick wrote:

Eric,

I like your suggestion. I do have a lathe and I need a project that
helps me learn to do more accurate work. What I might do is fabricate
an arbor first. That way, I won't be so worried about wrecking the
spindle to my mill. I did just run a file across the spindle and it
cuts pretty easily.

My lathe doesn't have a taper attachment, but when I get to that point,
our local high school has a dozen lathes with assorted attachments and
capabilities.

I also have 7/8" arbor with a B&S #9 taper that I can use as a model. I
would love to have a 1" arbor - there seems to be a lot more used
horizontal mill cutters available for 1" arbors...

Look forward to hearing your thoughts/suggestions.

Thanks - Rick

On 29 Jun 2005 04:14:04 -0700, "fe_rick"
wrote:

Hi Eric,

I replied yesterday, but I think it was lost somewhere...

Thanks for your generous offer. I've given it some thought. I do have a
lathe and it would be a great project for me to learn more. The spindle
on my Burke #4 does cut easily with a file.

I do have some worrys about ruining my spindle. So, I'm thinking it
would be good practice to first try and fabricate a new arbor. The only
one I have is a 7/8". A 1" arbor would be nice - easier to find used
cutters. I can use my 7/8" as a model. While I would be creating the
outside taper of a B&S #9 instead of an inside taper of R8, it would
seem that some of the same principles apply.

Let me know your thoughts or suggestions. I don't have a taper
attachment for my lathe. In a couple of months I'll have access again
to several lathes at our local high school. My 10" logan does have a
steady rest and an assortment of chucks.

Thanks,

- Rick
Rick,
You will need the taper attachment for the B&S taper because of the
length. Unless your compound has lots of travel. And yes, the same
methods apply. Keep your tool on center. An off center tool will not
give you the results you want. Use your spindle as the gauge for the
arbor. This means you need to be able to remove the arbor to put it in
the mill and then put it back in the lathe exactly the way it was. Use
bluing to see where the parts make contact. Prussian blue. I think
Dykem calls it Hi-Spot blue. Anyway, it's the non-drying stuff. Be
careful with the stuff. A little goes a long way.
Eric

I would suggest practicing making a few arbors before you do anything
to your ONLY spindle.

I have seen several of these BS9 type spindle machines ruined by those
who thought they could do a taper.

Just one mistake and instead of a nice mill you have a terrible paper
weight.

And even good machinists have a bad day once in awhile.

Good luck with the conversion.

TMT

You make it sound very easy. I'll have to give it a try. Thanks - Rick