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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Simple Question from a Simpleton :-)
I was given a "Old" motor and it looks like it may have came from an old air
conditioner (water cooler type). No plug on the end of the cord, so the elect may have ran through controls (step rheostat (sp) maybe?) or whatever before it went to the motor? No plate with specs either. And no hump on the motor for a starting capacitor. Anyway, I thought it was a 110- v motor (what I want) but the wire colors are red, white, black. Now the (New) cord I happen to have lying around is black, white, green. When I hook up black-black, and white-white and leave the green red unconnected It doesn't sound safe to be near for the 1 sec I tried and doesn't run either but didn't blow a breaker. Black for power???, white for ground??? and green for safety, right, wrong?? Or is the red for another 110-v leg? So, should I just trash it or am I doing something stupid with the wiring that should be obvious to anyone but me? Dale |
#2
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If the motor came out of an A/C with the extra wire I'd suggest that it
is either a cap start motor or a 2 speed motor. Tough to tell which wihtout some more details. About the best I could say is that the cap lead is typically brown. Dale Hallmark wrote: I was given a "Old" motor and it looks like it may have came from an old air conditioner (water cooler type). No plug on the end of the cord, so the elect may have ran through controls (step rheostat (sp) maybe?) or whatever before it went to the motor? No plate with specs either. And no hump on the motor for a starting capacitor. Anyway, I thought it was a 110- v motor (what I want) but the wire colors are red, white, black. Now the (New) cord I happen to have lying around is black, white, green. When I hook up black-black, and white-white and leave the green red unconnected It doesn't sound safe to be near for the 1 sec I tried and doesn't run either but didn't blow a breaker. Black for power???, white for ground??? and green for safety, right, wrong?? Or is the red for another 110-v leg? So, should I just trash it or am I doing something stupid with the wiring that should be obvious to anyone but me? Dale |
#3
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3 phase?
"Dale Hallmark" wrote in message ... I was given a "Old" motor and it looks like it may have came from an old air conditioner (water cooler type). No plug on the end of the cord, so the elect may have ran through controls (step rheostat (sp) maybe?) or whatever before it went to the motor? No plate with specs either. And no hump on the motor for a starting capacitor. Anyway, I thought it was a 110- v motor (what I want) but the wire colors are red, white, black. Now the (New) cord I happen to have lying around is black, white, green. When I hook up black-black, and white-white and leave the green red unconnected It doesn't sound safe to be near for the 1 sec I tried and doesn't run either but didn't blow a breaker. Black for power???, white for ground??? and green for safety, right, wrong?? Or is the red for another 110-v leg? So, should I just trash it or am I doing something stupid with the wiring that should be obvious to anyone but me? Dale |
#4
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"Waynemak" wrote in message ... 3 phase? It is pretty small (abt 7 inch in diameter) and looks like a million other 110-v motors I have seen. But red white black wiring is not something I recognize. Dale |
#5
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No Brown wire present.
Two speed makes sense, maybe :-) But it wouldn't turn so maybe I need to try the red wire (slow, maybe). slower the better for me. So Black to black, white to red and green unconnected to white. If it ruins it, haven's lost a cent. Or White to Black, Black to Red and green unconnected LOL Dale I am easily confused :-) "RoyJ" wrote in message . net... If the motor came out of an A/C with the extra wire I'd suggest that it is either a cap start motor or a 2 speed motor. Tough to tell which wihtout some more details. About the best I could say is that the cap lead is typically brown. |
#6
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In article ,
Dale Hallmark wrote: I was given a "Old" motor and it looks like it may have came from an old air conditioner (water cooler type). No plug on the end of the cord, so the elect may have ran through controls (step rheostat (sp) maybe?) or whatever before it went to the motor? No plate with specs either. And no hump on the motor for a starting capacitor. Anyway, I thought it was a 110- v motor (what I want) but the wire colors are red, white, black. That sounds like three phase -- either 220V or 440V. And you need to make a separate safety connection to the motor's frame -- *that* should be green in the US. Now the (New) cord I happen to have lying around is black, white, green. That is a standard 120V single phase cord. When I hook up black-black, and white-white and leave the green red unconnected It doesn't sound safe to be near for the 1 sec I tried and doesn't run either but didn't blow a breaker. But given enough time, it would burn out the motor's windings. You need either real three phase, or to fake it out with start caps and circuitry to remove the caps once it is spinning. Black for power???, white for ground??? and green for safety, right, wrong?? For 120V lines, right. Green is the safety ground. Or is the red for another 110-v leg? No -- all three of your wires are for different phases of a three-phase feed. Difficult to get in a residential setting, though there are several ways to fake it. (Look back in the archives of this newsgroup for "rotary convertors" and VFDs. Check the resistance between the three wires with a low-range ohmmeter. They should be identical between any pair, if it is a three phase motor. So, should I just trash it or am I doing something stupid with the wiring that should be obvious to anyone but me? Don't trash it -- if nothing else, it can be used as the basis of a rotary converter to run a smaller three phase motor on some machine tools which you may acquire later. Once you have the motor to use as an idler, the rest of it is pretty cheap to build. Or you can fake it to start with capacitors, and live with losing 1/3 of the full horsepower rating. To test this -- wire it up with a switch to put 220V on two of the three wires (any two and insulate the third wire for safety), but leave the switch off. Wrap a rope around the shaft, and spin the motor by pulling on the rope, and while it is still spinning (but the rope is clear) switch on the power and see if it spins up. If so, you are pretty sure that it is a three phase motor. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#7
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I was given a "Old" motor and it looks like it may have came from an old air
conditioner (water cooler type). No plug on the end of the cord, so the elect may have ran through controls (step rheostat (sp) maybe?) or whatever before it went to the motor? No plate with specs either. And no hump on the motor for a starting capacitor. Anyway, I thought it was a 110- v motor (what I want) but the wire colors are red, white, black. Now the (New) cord I happen to have lying around is black, white, green. When I hook up black-black, and white-white and leave the green red unconnected It doesn't sound safe to be near for the 1 sec I tried and doesn't run either but didn't blow a breaker. Black for power???, white for ground??? and green for safety, right, wrong?? Or is the red for another 110-v leg? So, should I just trash it or am I doing something stupid with the wiring that should be obvious to anyone but me? Dale Could it be 220V? Black (hot), Red (hot), White (Neutral). Ken. |
#8
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Well, three phase, or 220; it is worthless for my purposes.
I will see if I can trade it for something I can use. My shop (a do it yourself shop in the corner of my garage) has neither and I have no need of them so far for any project I have planned. Thanks for all the responses! Dale Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote in message ... I was given a "Old" motor and it looks like it may have came from an old air conditioner (water cooler type). No plug on the end of the cord, so the elect may have ran through controls (step rheostat (sp) maybe?) or whatever before it went to the motor? No plate with specs either. And no hump on the motor for a starting capacitor. Anyway, I thought it was a 110- v motor (what I want) but the wire colors are red, white, black. Now the (New) cord I happen to have lying around is black, white, green. When I hook up black-black, and white-white and leave the green red unconnected It doesn't sound safe to be near for the 1 sec I tried and doesn't run either but didn't blow a breaker. Black for power???, white for ground??? and green for safety, right, wrong?? Or is the red for another 110-v leg? So, should I just trash it or am I doing something stupid with the wiring that should be obvious to anyone but me? Dale Could it be 220V? Black (hot), Red (hot), White (Neutral). Ken. |
#9
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In article ,
Dale Hallmark wrote: Well, three phase, or 220; it is worthless for my purposes. I will see if I can trade it for something I can use. My shop (a do it yourself shop in the corner of my garage) has neither and I have no need of them so far for any project I have planned. Just a couple of things to consider before getting rid of it: 1) Some of the better used machine tools come by default with three-phase motors, and while you can swap in a single-phase motor in some, in others, it is a custom motor, and a single-phase equivalent may be difficult to find. And used machines which have been converted to single-phase cost more (because of the motor cost). So -- having the ability to construct a rotary converter can save you money in the long run. Also -- three-phase can be *quickly* reversed (e.g. when threading up to a shoulder), while single phase must be switched off, allowed to coast to a near stop, and then switched into the other direction. 2) Even 240 can help you with current problems, because for a given horsepower, 240 will draw half the current that 120 will draw. When I got my 12" Clausing, it was wired for 120V, and I had problems with occasional circuit breaker trips when I switched it on. I re-wired it for 240V, and no problems. Though I do plan to eventually replace the motor with a 3-phase one, so I can do instant reverse. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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