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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Damn Chuck
When I first started fooling around with metal working 9 years ago, I bought a Jacobs 14N chuck and stuck it on an Enco 5/8 ths straight shank to 3JT arbor. It has ALWAYS wobbled. I figured that it was the cheap shank and recently removed to replace it with a genuine Jacobs shank since my machining skills have progressed a little bit beyond the "mark with chalk, cut with axe stage". Appropriate chuck wedges wouldn't work but the Enco shank was soft so I threaded it and use a chunk of ¾ inch dia tubing and a 5/8 ths nut to pull the Enco straight shank off with minor effort. Cleaned up the chuck and brand new Jacobs 5/8 ths straight shank to 3JT arbor and gently pressed into place. A reamer blank chucked in the mill has zero run out. Same reamer blank chucked in the newly shanked 14N drill, 25 thou runout. Damn. I must have mistreated the chuck badly over the past 9 years. Got a new Jacobs 14N chuck with new Jacobs 5/8ths SS cleaned appropriately gently pressed into chuck and tested with reamer blank today. 12 thou run out on new chuck and shank. Zero run out when reamer blank chucked into mill collet. WTH??? As an aside, a new Rhom chuck pressed onto cheap HF drill press has zero run out. Any insight on either what I'm doing wrong or how to fix it would be appreciated. Regards, Jim |
#2
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On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 04:24:00 GMT, JK wrote:
Any insight on either what I'm doing wrong or how to fix it would be appreciated. Regards, Jim Buy an Albrecht. But if you wanna use what you have: Seat the taper well. Install the shank with Jacobs chuck into your mill. Tap lightly with a deadblow type mallet and check runout. Tap as needed until you achieve zero runout. -- Skuke Reverse the domain name to send email |
#3
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Do a bit of investigating here. Chuck up your arbor and check if it is
running true without the chuck on it. if not then note the high spot. Grab the reamer blank with the chuck on one end and the mill on t he other. Check the run out on the taper in the chuck, note the high side. Assemble so that high sides cancel. You may find that your chuck is truly wonkey. Have you had the chuck apart and cleaned and inspected? I went through a similar situation with a 14n and had the arbor and chuck together and apart a few times until I lucked on the orientation that worked. What I suggested above is a bit more scientific. lg no neat sig line "JK" wrote in message ... When I first started fooling around with metal working 9 years ago, I bought a Jacobs 14N chuck and stuck it on an Enco 5/8 ths straight shank to 3JT arbor. It has ALWAYS wobbled. I figured that it was the cheap shank and recently removed to replace it with a genuine Jacobs shank since my machining skills have progressed a little bit beyond the "mark with chalk, cut with axe stage". Appropriate chuck wedges wouldn't work but the Enco shank was soft so I threaded it and use a chunk of ¾ inch dia tubing and a 5/8 ths nut to pull the Enco straight shank off with minor effort. Cleaned up the chuck and brand new Jacobs 5/8 ths straight shank to 3JT arbor and gently pressed into place. A reamer blank chucked in the mill has zero run out. Same reamer blank chucked in the newly shanked 14N drill, 25 thou runout. Damn. I must have mistreated the chuck badly over the past 9 years. |
#4
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End of discussion.
JR Dweller in the cellar skuke wrote: Buy an Albrecht. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses -------------------------------------------------------------- Dependence is Vulnerability: -------------------------------------------------------------- "Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal" "I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.." |
#5
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I have an Albrecht keyless with a Jacobs arbor 1/2 inch keyless , .023
runout as new , used the cold arbor warm [125] chuck assembly method , never tried to correct it as it does for my rough drilling and I have a Kawasaki keyless that is 35 years old from dad that only has ..0003 .0004 for tight work in the mill which I don't do much of any more , do you think I can get the runout out of my Albrecht |
#6
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I don't understand this at all. What's this business about dialing in a
ground rod? Indicate the spindle taper directly. Run true? Then carefully put in the arbor alone, and indicate it. Run true? Then carefully put the chuck on the arbor and install it, and only then put in something round, and indicate it. If it runs out badly, return the chuck as defective! GWE |
#7
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In article ,
williamhenry wrote: I have an Albrecht keyless with a Jacobs arbor 1/2 inch keyless , .023 runout as new , used the cold arbor warm [125] chuck assembly method , never tried to correct it as it does for my rough drilling and I have a Kawasaki keyless that is 35 years old from dad that only has .0003 .0004 for tight work in the mill which I don't do much of any more , do you think I can get the runout out of my Albrecht Possible. I see two likely sources: 1) The Jacobs arbor is off center. (It should not be, but I would expect it of a Jacobs arbor before an Albrecht one. 2) A jaw in the Albrecht has gotten a burr from a drill spinning in it sometime in the past. (Or perhaps from gripping something the wrong shape -- Albrecht jaws are nicely hardened. New jaws are available, as are replacements for *any* part in an Albrecht. You can built a whole chuck from parts -- but it will cost a lot more than buying a whole chuck assembled.) Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#8
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JK wrote:
When I first started fooling around with metal working 9 years ago, I bought a Jacobs 14N chuck and stuck it on an Enco 5/8 ths straight shank to 3JT arbor. It has ALWAYS wobbled. I figured that it was the cheap shank and recently removed to replace it with a genuine Jacobs shank since my machining skills have progressed a little bit beyond the "mark with chalk, cut with axe stage". Appropriate chuck wedges wouldn't work but the Enco shank was soft so I threaded it and use a chunk of ¾ inch dia tubing and a 5/8 ths nut to pull the Enco straight shank off with minor effort. Cleaned up the chuck and brand new Jacobs 5/8 ths straight shank to 3JT arbor and gently pressed into place. A reamer blank chucked in the mill has zero run out. Same reamer blank chucked in the newly shanked 14N drill, 25 thou runout. Damn. I must have mistreated the chuck badly over the past 9 years. Got a new Jacobs 14N chuck with new Jacobs 5/8ths SS cleaned appropriately gently pressed into chuck and tested with reamer blank today. 12 thou run out on new chuck and shank. Zero run out when reamer blank chucked into mill collet. WTH??? As an aside, a new Rhom chuck pressed onto cheap HF drill press has zero run out. Any insight on either what I'm doing wrong or how to fix it would be appreciated. Regards, Jim There is more than a chuck different here. 1. different insertion 2. different arbor or at the very least different arbor insertion at the very least. might try rotating the arbor to a different engagement angle... Martin -- Martin Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#9
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Dear Chuck
Are you sure that it isn't a New York "damn" and a "thank you" would be a more appropriate response? lg no neat sig line "Tom Quackenbush" wrote in message ... Well, if that's the way you feel, you can just go to hell. Warmest regards, Chuck Remove bogusinfo to reply. |
#10
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On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 18:48:38 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote: I don't understand this at all. What's this business about dialing in a ground rod? Indicate the spindle taper directly. Run true? Then carefully put in the arbor alone, and indicate it. Run true? Then carefully put the chuck on the arbor and install it, and only then put in something round, and indicate it. If it runs out badly, return the chuck as defective! GWE Grant, Martin, Larry G Thanks for the insight. I will do as you suggest. Skuke, JR, I already have an Albrecht. Works like a champ but I save it for the fine stuff. thanks to all for the advice. Jim |
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