I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium at
3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with the
original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave it a 5/8
inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still crooked.

The bandsaw books in effect say that this is to be expected, and
describe various ways to cope with the tendency, but I could not see why.

The mitre guage that came with the saw is pretty flimsy, but even that
didn't seem to explain the degree of crookedness. Now, on table saws,
the greatest accuracy is obtained by use of a sled that carries the
stock past the blade.

So, I made a sled out of a 3/8 by 3/4 by 12 inch cold rolled mild steel
bar (that slides in the mitre slot in the table), a piece of 1/4 inch
6061 T6 aluminium plate about 6x8 inches that I had laying around, and a
piece of 3/8 by 3/4 inch aluminium bar (set vertical and accurately
perpendicular to the steel bar and thus mitre slot). The pieces are
held together with some large flat head socket cap screws. The sled
reaches to within 1/16th inch of the blade, so the stock is well
supported.

In use, the stock is held in the sled against the aluminium bar, and the
sled is pushed past the blade. On wood, this works quite well, but on
metal it still drifts a bit, the stock being held in the sled by hand.
So I drilled another hole in the sled to accept a 1/4-20 flathead socket
cap screw, and attached a small strap clamp. This allows the metal to
be clamped firmly to the sled. This works: the cuts are now
perpendicular.

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source of
the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be nothing more
than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible walking.

Joe Gwinn

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium
at 3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with
the original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave
it a 5/8 inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still
crooked.

The bandsaw books in effect say that this is to be expected, and
describe various ways to cope with the tendency, but I could not see
why.

The mitre guage that came with the saw is pretty flimsy, but even that
didn't seem to explain the degree of crookedness. Now, on table saws,
the greatest accuracy is obtained by use of a sled that carries the
stock past the blade.

So, I made a sled out of a 3/8 by 3/4 by 12 inch cold rolled mild
steel bar (that slides in the mitre slot in the table), a piece of
1/4 inch 6061 T6 aluminium plate about 6x8 inches that I had laying
around, and a piece of 3/8 by 3/4 inch aluminium bar (set vertical
and accurately perpendicular to the steel bar and thus mitre slot).
The pieces are held together with some large flat head socket cap
screws. The sled reaches to within 1/16th inch of the blade, so the
stock is well supported.

In use, the stock is held in the sled against the aluminium bar, and
the sled is pushed past the blade. On wood, this works quite well,
but on metal it still drifts a bit, the stock being held in the sled
by hand. So I drilled another hole in the sled to accept a 1/4-20
flathead socket cap screw, and attached a small strap clamp. This
allows the metal to be clamped firmly to the sled. This works: the
cuts are now perpendicular.

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source
of the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be
nothing more than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible
walking.

Joe Gwinn

Apparantly it is not 'el-cheapo blades or a cheap saw that generates
off-angle cuts.
(or at least I assume that *this* outfit uses quality equipment)
I recently got some half inch thick 6061-T6 al. plate from Online Metals.
One side of a six inch square of this material has a milled and square
surface. The other three sides were off by as much as 1/32" over the HALF
INCH!
Moral?
If you really need a six inch square +?/-0 order at least 6 1/4.
Also - don't assume any band saw cuts straight.

Ken.

On Mon, 30 May 2005 22:16:25 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium at
3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with the
original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave it a 5/8
inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still crooked.

The bandsaw books in effect say that this is to be expected, and
describe various ways to cope with the tendency, but I could not see why.
snip
AFAIK it results from an uneven amount of "set" in the teeth, this set
being more on one side and less on the other. THe blade will "lead"
or pull to the side with the more set.

This set is a product of the way blades are manufactured. More
expensive blades will reduce it, but not eliminate it.

I'm talking about blades for wood here with 6-TPI and under, but I
suppose the same thing would apply to blades for metal.

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium at
3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with the
original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave it a 5/8
inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still crooked.

The bandsaw books in effect say that this is to be expected, and
describe various ways to cope with the tendency, but I could not see why.

The mitre guage that came with the saw is pretty flimsy, but even that
didn't seem to explain the degree of crookedness. Now, on table saws,
the greatest accuracy is obtained by use of a sled that carries the
stock past the blade.

So, I made a sled out of a 3/8 by 3/4 by 12 inch cold rolled mild steel
bar (that slides in the mitre slot in the table), a piece of 1/4 inch
6061 T6 aluminium plate about 6x8 inches that I had laying around, and a
piece of 3/8 by 3/4 inch aluminium bar (set vertical and accurately
perpendicular to the steel bar and thus mitre slot). The pieces are
held together with some large flat head socket cap screws. The sled
reaches to within 1/16th inch of the blade, so the stock is well
supported.

In use, the stock is held in the sled against the aluminium bar, and the
sled is pushed past the blade. On wood, this works quite well, but on
metal it still drifts a bit, the stock being held in the sled by hand.
So I drilled another hole in the sled to accept a 1/4-20 flathead socket
cap screw, and attached a small strap clamp. This allows the metal to
be clamped firmly to the sled. This works: the cuts are now
perpendicular.

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source of
the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be nothing more
than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible walking.

Joe Gwinn

On my saw, I've found that the more worn the blade is, the crookeder it
gets...

Jerry

When I first made my 20 inch bandsaw, it was cutting on a slight angle
and was virtuially impossible to follow a straight line without a lot
of fiddling around. I changed to a bi - metal blade, and it was
somewhat better. I adjusted my blade guides in so there wa virtually
no clearances, it got better, and nothing else I tweaked seemed to
make much difference, even changing blade brands to another brand of
bi-metal. Then I remembered bimetal blades reuire a lot more tension,
and since I had one blade with a few teeth missing I decided to
tension it to the point it would start cutting straight or bust the
blade or bend my saws frame, which would be pretty unlikely, since its
4"x 4" x 3/8" wall steel tube with gussets of 1/4" plate.......I
cranked up p[retty darn hard on the tensioner, and low and behold it
cut like it never cut before. I even found it cut perfectly fine with
carbon steel blades. I have to think a good majority of bandsaw
problems in regards to cutting straight is caused by blades that are
improperly or insufficieintly tensioned

==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!

~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o

In article ,
LP wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2005 22:16:25 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium at
3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with the
original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave it a 5/8
inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still crooked.

The bandsaw books in effect say that this is to be expected, and
describe various ways to cope with the tendency, but I could not see why.
snip
AFAIK it results from an uneven amount of "set" in the teeth, this set
being more on one side and less on the other. THe blade will "lead"
or pull to the side with the more set.

This set is a product of the way blades are manufactured. More
expensive blades will reduce it, but not eliminate it.

This sounds about right to me.


I'm talking about blades for wood here with 6-TPI and under, but I
suppose the same thing would apply to blades for metal.

Yes. I have a 4-6 tpi bimetal blade for wood, but it is also used for
thick metal, and it also drifts. I haven't tried it with the sled yet.

I forgot to mention that for really square cuts it was necessary to
clamp wood to the sled as well, probably because metal on wood is still
pretty low friction. I bet a sled made of hardwood (even if the rail is
still metal) would allow square cuts of wood without clamping.

Joe Gwinn

In article ,
(~Roy~) wrote:

When I first made my 20 inch bandsaw, it was cutting on a slight angle
and was virtuially impossible to follow a straight line without a lot
of fiddling around. I changed to a bi - metal blade, and it was
somewhat better. I adjusted my blade guides in so there wa virtually
no clearances, it got better, and nothing else I tweaked seemed to
make much difference, even changing blade brands to another brand of
bi-metal. Then I remembered bimetal blades reuire a lot more tension,
and since I had one blade with a few teeth missing I decided to
tension it to the point it would start cutting straight or bust the
blade or bend my saws frame, which would be pretty unlikely, since its
4"x 4" x 3/8" wall steel tube with gussets of 1/4" plate.......I
cranked up pretty darn hard on the tensioner, and low and behold it
cut like it never cut before. I even found it cut perfectly fine with
carbon steel blades. I have to think a good majority of bandsaw
problems in regards to cutting straight is caused by blades that are
improperly or insufficieintly tensioned

I suspect that you are right about insufficient tension, and I did rack
the tension up to max, but it didn't quite solve the problem. The
tension is still set quite high, but the sled made the difference.

Joe Gwinn

In article ,
"Ken Davey" wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium
at 3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with
the original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave
it a 5/8 inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still
crooked.

[snip]

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source
of the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be
nothing more than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible
walking.


Apparently it is not 'el-cheapo blades or a cheap saw that generates off-angle cuts.
(or at least I assume that *this* outfit uses quality equipment)

The outfit is good, but isn't industrial. The saw is a Wilton 8201 and
the blades are Lenox (12-14 tpi) and Starrett (4-6 tpi).

The folk writing the bandsaw books have the best bandsaws made, and
usually more than one kind, and report that all saws will drift.


I recently got some half inch thick 6061-T6 al. plate from Online Metals.
One side of a six inch square of this material has a milled and square
surface. The other three sides were off by as much as 1/32" over the HALF
INCH!
Moral?
If you really need a six inch square +?/-0 order at least 6 1/4.
Also - don't assume any band saw cuts straight.

If I recall, Online Metals says that their as-cut dimensions have a
tolerance of up to something like 1/8 inch, and square isn't promised.
Nor is clean. So, ordering oversize is necessary.

Squaring up raw stock is for me a major planned use of that bandsaw, and
is why I needed to obsess on cutting straight and true. I'm going to
make a larger sled that will handle (that is, clamp) pieces up to maybe
10 inches wide.

Joe Gwinn

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"Ken Davey" wrote:


Joseph Gwinn wrote:

I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium
at 3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with
the original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave
it a 5/8 inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still
crooked.


[snip]

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source
of the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be
nothing more than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible
walking.


Apparently it is not 'el-cheapo blades or a cheap saw that generates off-angle cuts.
(or at least I assume that *this* outfit uses quality equipment)


The outfit is good, but isn't industrial. The saw is a Wilton 8201 and
the blades are Lenox (12-14 tpi) and Starrett (4-6 tpi).

The folk writing the bandsaw books have the best bandsaws made, and
usually more than one kind, and report that all saws will drift.



I recently got some half inch thick 6061-T6 al. plate from Online Metals.
One side of a six inch square of this material has a milled and square
surface. The other three sides were off by as much as 1/32" over the HALF
INCH!
Moral?
If you really need a six inch square +?/-0 order at least 6 1/4.
Also - don't assume any band saw cuts straight.


If I recall, Online Metals says that their as-cut dimensions have a
tolerance of up to something like 1/8 inch, and square isn't promised.
Nor is clean. So, ordering oversize is necessary.

Squaring up raw stock is for me a major planned use of that bandsaw, and
is why I needed to obsess on cutting straight and true. I'm going to
make a larger sled that will handle (that is, clamp) pieces up to maybe
10 inches wide.

Joe Gwinn

The cheapo 4x6 bandsaw guys report that a quality bimetal blade and
careful tweaking yields dependable square cuts. One reports reliable
..035 slices on a daily basis.

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium at
3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with the
original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave it a 5/8
inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still crooked.

The bandsaw books in effect say that this is to be expected, and
describe various ways to cope with the tendency, but I could not see why.

The mitre guage that came with the saw is pretty flimsy, but even that
didn't seem to explain the degree of crookedness. Now, on table saws,
the greatest accuracy is obtained by use of a sled that carries the
stock past the blade.

So, I made a sled out of a 3/8 by 3/4 by 12 inch cold rolled mild steel
bar (that slides in the mitre slot in the table), a piece of 1/4 inch
6061 T6 aluminium plate about 6x8 inches that I had laying around, and a
piece of 3/8 by 3/4 inch aluminium bar (set vertical and accurately
perpendicular to the steel bar and thus mitre slot). The pieces are
held together with some large flat head socket cap screws. The sled
reaches to within 1/16th inch of the blade, so the stock is well
supported.

In use, the stock is held in the sled against the aluminium bar, and the
sled is pushed past the blade. On wood, this works quite well, but on
metal it still drifts a bit, the stock being held in the sled by hand.
So I drilled another hole in the sled to accept a 1/4-20 flathead socket
cap screw, and attached a small strap clamp. This allows the metal to
be clamped firmly to the sled. This works: the cuts are now
perpendicular.

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source of
the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be nothing more
than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible walking.

Joe Gwinn

5 band saws here, mix of BIG wood and H+V metal, and never a blade goes on
without the stretch gauge getting clamped to the blade. The blades need to
be re-tensioned often. We fought long and hard with bandsaw blades...DON'T
GET MOORES BLADES!!!!!!!!!! THEIR QUALITY IS INCONSISTENT, not always bad
just never the same. Get the stretch specs from the mfgr., not from a
table. We also use aftermarket ball bearing guides that are set-up
perfectly...big difference!

On Tue, 31 May 2005 11:54:35 GMT, (~Roy~) wrote:

When I first made my 20 inch bandsaw, it was cutting on a slight angle
and was virtuially impossible to follow a straight line without a lot
of fiddling around. I changed to a bi - metal blade, and it was
somewhat better. I adjusted my blade guides in so there wa virtually
no clearances, it got better, and nothing else I tweaked seemed to
make much difference, even changing blade brands to another brand of
bi-metal. Then I remembered bimetal blades reuire a lot more tension,
and since I had one blade with a few teeth missing I decided to
tension it to the point it would start cutting straight or bust the
blade or bend my saws frame, which would be pretty unlikely, since its
4"x 4" x 3/8" wall steel tube with gussets of 1/4" plate.......I
cranked up p[retty darn hard on the tensioner, and low and behold it
cut like it never cut before. I even found it cut perfectly fine with
carbon steel blades. I have to think a good majority of bandsaw
problems in regards to cutting straight is caused by blades that are
improperly or insufficieintly tensioned

==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!

~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o


The Emerson bandsaw I scrounged up a few weeks ago cut on a hellish
angle. I made up a new blade, adjusted the rollers and whatnot..and
it cuts close enough now to allow just about perfect fitup when
welding

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

On Tue, 31 May 2005 08:37:25 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
"Ken Davey" wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium
at 3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with
the original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave
it a 5/8 inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still
crooked.

[snip]

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source
of the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be
nothing more than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible
walking.


Apparently it is not 'el-cheapo blades or a cheap saw that generates off-angle cuts.
(or at least I assume that *this* outfit uses quality equipment)

The outfit is good, but isn't industrial. The saw is a Wilton 8201 and
the blades are Lenox (12-14 tpi) and Starrett (4-6 tpi).

The folk writing the bandsaw books have the best bandsaws made, and
usually more than one kind, and report that all saws will drift.


I recently got some half inch thick 6061-T6 al. plate from Online Metals.
One side of a six inch square of this material has a milled and square
surface. The other three sides were off by as much as 1/32" over the HALF
INCH!
Moral?
If you really need a six inch square +?/-0 order at least 6 1/4.
Also - don't assume any band saw cuts straight.

If I recall, Online Metals says that their as-cut dimensions have a
tolerance of up to something like 1/8 inch, and square isn't promised.
Nor is clean. So, ordering oversize is necessary.

Squaring up raw stock is for me a major planned use of that bandsaw, and
is why I needed to obsess on cutting straight and true. I'm going to
make a larger sled that will handle (that is, clamp) pieces up to maybe
10 inches wide.

Joe Gwinn

Joe..if you need Square...forget the bandsaw. They will allllllll cut
off square (well..then there is Amana..but...$$$) If you need
square..get a cold saw.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Joseph Gwinn wrote: ...
Squaring up raw stock is for me a major planned use of that bandsaw, and
is why I needed to obsess on cutting straight and true. ...

You could also consider a Tenyru (sp?) style blade for your table saw.
Cuts very straight, very true, and very clean. It would only cost you
about $40 to try it (7 1/2" Matshu****a blade from Medford Tool).

Bob

In article ,
Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote: ...
Squaring up raw stock is for me a major planned use of that bandsaw, and
is why I needed to obsess on cutting straight and true. ...

You could also consider a Tenyru (sp?) style blade for your table saw.
Cuts very straight, very true, and very clean. It would only cost you
about $40 to try it (7 1/2" Matshu****a blade from Medford Tool).

When I get a table saw, I'll try this. Currently, I don't have space
for a table saw, although my Father has one.

Joe Gwinn

In article , Rex B
wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"Ken Davey" wrote:


Joseph Gwinn wrote:

I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium
at 3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with
the original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave
it a 5/8 inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still
crooked.

[snip]

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source
of the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be
nothing more than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible
walking.


Apparently it is not 'el-cheapo blades or a cheap saw that generates
off-angle cuts.
(or at least I assume that *this* outfit uses quality equipment)

The outfit is good, but isn't industrial. The saw is a Wilton 8201 and
the blades are Lenox (12-14 tpi) and Starrett (4-6 tpi).

The folk writing the bandsaw books have the best bandsaws made, and
usually more than one kind, and report that all saws will drift.

[snip]

Squaring up raw stock is for me a major planned use of that bandsaw, and
is why I needed to obsess on cutting straight and true. I'm going to
make a larger sled that will handle (that is, clamp) pieces up to maybe
10 inches wide.

The cheapo 4x6 bandsaw guys report that a quality bimetal blade and
careful tweaking yields dependable square cuts. One reports reliable
.035 slices on a daily basis.

With the sled, I'm getting square to within my ability to detect
out-of-square using an old Starrett combination square.

Joe Gwinn

In article ,
Gunner wrote:

On Tue, 31 May 2005 08:37:25 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
"Ken Davey" wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium
at 3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with
the original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave
it a 5/8 inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still
crooked.

[snip]

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source
of the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be
nothing more than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible
walking.


[snip]

Squaring up raw stock is for me a major planned use of that bandsaw, and
is why I needed to obsess on cutting straight and true. I'm going to
make a larger sled that will handle (that is, clamp) pieces up to maybe
10 inches wide.

Joe..if you need Square...forget the bandsaw. They will allllllll cut
off square (well..then there is Amana..but...$$$) If you need
square..get a cold saw.

Amana? I thought they made appliances.

I haven't quite talked myself into a cold saw, as a bandsaw is more
flexible. And the sled seems to work well enough. Another poster
suggested a table saw with a Tenyru (sp?) blade from Matshu****a, What
do you think? How do they compare?

Joe Gwinn

On Tue, 31 May 2005 19:30:15 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:


5 band saws here, mix of BIG wood and H+V metal, and never a blade goes on
without the stretch gauge getting clamped to the blade. The blades need to
be re-tensioned often. We fought long and hard with bandsaw blades...DON'T
GET MOORES BLADES!!!!!!!!!! THEIR QUALITY IS INCONSISTENT, not always bad
just never the same. Get the stretch specs from the mfgr., not from a
table. We also use aftermarket ball bearing guides that are set-up
perfectly...big difference!

I've had best luck with blades made from Sandvik bladestock. That
seemed to be the preference of the guy who I have make my blades
though he never came right out and said so. Maybe it's a Minnesota
sort of deal, then.

He works out of a rather small and very old house near where the
steel yards are, Nordeast by the river. The windows probably
haven't been washed since WW II and the "office" looks like something
out of an old movie. The welds in the blades he makes are
invisible. His blades work great in my saw. His price, about $12
per blade (minimum 3 blades) is OK with me because 3 blades last me
about a year.

On Tue, 31 May 2005 22:56:50 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
Gunner wrote:

On Tue, 31 May 2005 08:37:25 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
"Ken Davey" wrote:

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
I recently acquired a bandsaw that will cut wood or metal (aluminium
at 3000 fpm and steel at ~100 fpm). It always cut at an angle with
the original cheapo blade. Tightened and adjusted. No dice. Gave
it a 5/8 inch wide 10-12 tpi bimetal blade. Much better, but still
crooked.

[snip]

So, the lesson seems to be that a significant cause of crooked cuts is
the stock drifting sideways while being cut. I don't know the source
of the sideways force, but it cannot be that large. It may be
nothing more than the vibration of the saw causing imperceptible
walking.


[snip]

Squaring up raw stock is for me a major planned use of that bandsaw, and
is why I needed to obsess on cutting straight and true. I'm going to
make a larger sled that will handle (that is, clamp) pieces up to maybe
10 inches wide.

Joe..if you need Square...forget the bandsaw. They will allllllll cut
off square (well..then there is Amana..but...$$$) If you need
square..get a cold saw.

Amana? I thought they made appliances.

Amana Tool Corp makes some of the finest metal cutting tools around.
And they are priced like it too.

I haven't quite talked myself into a cold saw, as a bandsaw is more
flexible. And the sled seems to work well enough. Another poster
suggested a table saw with a Tenyru (sp?) blade from Matshu****a, What
do you think? How do they compare?

Joe Gwinn

No idea. Ive used cold saws, but never used one of the blades
mentioned. It should work, but it will be with much more fanfare and
flying ****. Cutting speeds are far different

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

In article ,
Gunner wrote:

On Tue, 31 May 2005 22:56:50 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article ,
Gunner wrote:

[snip]

Joe..if you need Square...forget the bandsaw. They will allllllll cut
off square (well..then there is Amana..but...$$$) If you need
square..get a cold saw.

Amana? I thought they made appliances.

Amana Tool Corp makes some of the finest metal cutting tools around.
And they are priced like it too.

I'll look into them.


I haven't quite talked myself into a cold saw, as a bandsaw is more
flexible. And the sled seems to work well enough. Another poster
suggested a table saw with a Tenyru (sp?) blade from Matshu****a, What
do you think? How do they compare?

No idea. I've used cold saws, but never used one of the blades
mentioned. It should work, but it will be with much more fanfare and
flying ****. Cutting speeds are far different

I remember seeing an industrial table saw used to cut 1/4 inch thick
aluminium plate at RCA back in the late 1960s. (I don't know the max
thickness it could handle.) Made a lot of noise, but the flying ****
mostly went into the cabinet. Just like when cutting wood I suppose.

Judging by the pitch of the noise, the blade was going a few thousand
fpm at the teeth.

The operator didn't use goggles or hearing protectors, and seemed a bit
hard of hearing. But he was old, so who knows if it was noise or age or
a combination. But that was one LOUD saw.


"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

When and where was this published? Even George Washington cautioned
against "entangling alliances" in the late 1700s, and he was worrying
about the US getting too involved in European politics, and getting
dragged into European wars.


Joe

Accurate bandsaws exist in sawmills, ganged bandsaws to slice the
cant (squared-off log) into rough lumber. They use the bandsaw to
minimize loss to the kerf, and have to cut to a minimum thickness to
keep the planing losses down, too. Wide blades, heavily tensioned,
close guides, and no tolerance for tooth damage. Most of my bandsawing
has been OK except for blades that get worn on one side more than the
other; they will steer toward the sharper side.

Dan

wrote:

Accurate bandsaws exist in sawmills, ganged bandsaws to slice the
cant (squared-off log) into rough lumber. They use the bandsaw to
minimize loss to the kerf, and have to cut to a minimum thickness to
keep the planing losses down, too. Wide blades, heavily tensioned,
close guides, and no tolerance for tooth damage. Most of my bandsawing
has been OK except for blades that get worn on one side more than the
other; they will steer toward the sharper side.

Dan

It might be nice to say bandsaws are used to minimize loss - but the were
developed for BIG Cants. Only in recent years kerf has been important as it
brought some more profit and less waste. The waste was used to heat and boil and
make other products.

The story tall blades had to go away with the Giant Redwoods. They were first
cut to length that a long team could pull then quartered to make it over the mountains
and through the round blades. This quartering was really tough and took time.
The band saw has ruled since. Much like the wire saw for stone. Once started,
the industry never looks back.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

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Hey Gunner,

I've sent you a couple of cute cat pictures lately, but I get a
"bounce" on the e-mail address I have. If you care to, send along a
current useable to:

Lawson at ciaccess.com

ALL CAPS, no caps, miXed uPPer and LoWeR....no matter.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 13:52:54 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:

Hey Gunner,

I've sent you a couple of cute cat pictures lately, but I get a
"bounce" on the e-mail address I have. If you care to, send along a
current useable to:

Lawson at ciaccess.com

ALL CAPS, no caps, miXed uPPer and LoWeR....no matter.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

try gunnerasch At gmail.com or gunner at lightspeed. dot net. I may
have set up the spam blockers too stiff.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown