Has anyone ever built there own tungsten grinder? I can't see spending
minimum of $200 for a pre-built one. I have all the tools, but have
never seen a tungsten grinder before. Could I just use my dremel and
build a collet system to cut off, then grind a point? I can polish on
the small wheel I have been using. I also have a flax adapter from the
small grinder I have, maybe that would be an option for a t-grinder?

Thoughts?

Thanks,
rod

Rod Richeson wrote:
Has anyone ever built there own tungsten grinder? I can't see spending
minimum of $200 for a pre-built one. I have all the tools, but have
never seen a tungsten grinder before. Could I just use my dremel and
build a collet system to cut off, then grind a point? I can polish on
the small wheel I have been using. I also have a flax adapter from the
small grinder I have, maybe that would be an option for a t-grinder?

Sure.

http://www.drizzle.com/~dantzler/ima.../W_grinder.JPG

$15 yard sale grinder not powerful enough for real work.

I use a medium/course silicon carbide green wheel for roughing
and a medium/fine (120) aluminum oxide wheel for final grinding.

Had to make a new side guard.

Nothing touches this grinder except my tungstens. If I have a blob
of metal contaminating the tunsten, that gets ground off on the
belt grinder first. Belt grinder is also great for roughing the
point in.

The one special thing I did on this grinder was to install one of
those "one-way" balancing systems that Lee Valley sells. It was
expensive, but I can balance a nickel on the grinder while I turn
it on and its still there after the wheels stop turning. This along
with a good dressing wheel makes it easier to grind tunstens.

Jeff Dantzler
Seattle, WA

Jeff, can you tell us some more about this balancing system? How does it work?

Grant

The one special thing I did on this grinder was to install one of
those "one-way" balancing systems that Lee Valley sells. It was
expensive, but I can balance a nickel on the grinder while I turn
it on and its still there after the wheels stop turning. This along
with a good dressing wheel makes it easier to grind tunstens.

Jeff Dantzler
Seattle, WA

"Jeff Dantzler" wrote in message
news:1113934293.330029@yasure...


Nothing touches this grinder except my tungstens. If I have a blob
of metal contaminating the tunsten, that gets ground off on the
belt grinder first. Belt grinder is also great for roughing the
point in.

I've been using the belt sander that I use for everything else for
sharpening my tungstens. I'm relatively new to welding and have been
wondering what I've been missing by not having a dedicated grinder for
tungstens. How would I see the difference between using the belt sander and
the system you describe?

Peter

Peter Grey wrote:

I've been using the belt sander that I use for everything else for
sharpening my tungstens. I'm relatively new to welding and have been
wondering what I've been missing by not having a dedicated grinder for
tungstens. How would I see the difference between using the belt sander and
the system you describe?

Hobby weldors don't have to worry too much about their tungstens.
The main enemy is non-ferrous metals like aluminum or copper, etc.
These will embed in a grinding wheel and contaminate any tunsten
that is used on the bad wheel. That's why I grind metal blobs off
first on a belt sander.

I could probably get away with grinding clean steel and stainless
on my "tungsten only" grinder without much problem. Other metals
are another story.

A belt grinder would work just fine for sharpening tungstens. The main
advantage of a wheel grinder is the availability of a rough wheel
to point new tungstens (or salvage abused ones) and a finer wheel
to put a nice finish on the point. My belt grinder only has one belt
(grit) on at time and I'm lazy...

The goal is a *clean*, pointed tungsten with any grinding grooves
running pointing at the tip and not in rings. I usually blunt the
tip slightly. If I suspect any other gunk is on my tungsten or
filler (or weldment), I wipe with acteone. For hobby purposes this
is good enough. For nuclear power plants, there are strict codes and
guidelines.

JLD

The main enemy is non-ferrous metals like aluminum or copper, etc.
These will embed in a grinding wheel and contaminate any tunsten

You grind aluminum on your grinding wheel?
You bad boy!

In article . net,
Peter Grey wrote:

"Jeff Dantzler" wrote in message
news:1113934293.330029@yasure...


Nothing touches this grinder except my tungstens. If I have a blob
of metal contaminating the tunsten, that gets ground off on the
belt grinder first. Belt grinder is also great for roughing the
point in.

I've been using the belt sander that I use for everything else for
sharpening my tungstens. I'm relatively new to welding and have been
wondering what I've been missing by not having a dedicated grinder for
tungstens. How would I see the difference between using the belt sander and
the system you describe?

Peter



I use my Burr King belt grinder for roughing and a 6" diamond wheel for
finishing.

"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message
...

I use my Burr King belt grinder for roughing and a 6" diamond wheel for
finishing.

And if you didn't use the diamond wheel to finish the tungstens and just
used them as they came off the belt ginder, what would the effect be?

Peter

In article .net,
Peter Grey wrote:

"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message
...

I use my Burr King belt grinder for roughing and a 6" diamond wheel for
finishing.

And if you didn't use the diamond wheel to finish the tungstens and just
used them as they came off the belt ginder, what would the effect be?

Peter



It wouldn't matter on heavy TIG welds, but on really thin sheet metal
you need as smooth a surface as possible on the tungsten.
It makes the arc smoother and more controllable.

Same reason you want any scratch lines going inline with the tungsten.
Smoother arc.