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  #1   Report Post  
Walker
 
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Default question on grinder speeds

I recently purchased the Wolverine grinding jig to go with my existing
grinder that runs at 3450. From all the reading I've done in this group, it
is recommended to sharpen tools on a slow speed (1750) grinder. Seems its
easy to get a tool too hot and ruin the tempering if sharpened at 3450. At
times, I can see the edge of my tools discolor a little. Couple of
questions:

1) The documentation that came from Oneway with the jig recommended using a
high speed grinder over a low speed grinder. Can someone give me some
thoughts on this. Why would they recommend slow speed? Oneway contradicts
what most folks in here recommend.

2) Am I pressing to hard on the wheel with the tool. I certain don't mean
to be....I'm trying to have a light touch but sometimes I do get some
discoloration on the edges. I keep a cup of water next to the grinder to
frequently dip the tool in to cool the metal?

3) Should I go ahead and buy a slow speed grinder? I surely don't want to
ruin any of my new expensive Sorby tools!!!

This jig sure beats trying to free hand!!!!

Thanks,
Walker




  #2   Report Post  
Ray Sandusky
 
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Default

Walker

3450 rpm is justfine
the temper can not be lost on a hss tool
do not heat and quench hss tools too often as that can cause the steel to
crack
press lightly - the 1way will help alot

get white wheels for the grinder - one at 80 grit and one at 120 - makes the
grinder more versatile
make sure your wheels are trued and run smoothly
use a diamond tool to dress the wheel's face so it will cut and not burn the
steel

did i firget anything?
good luck and be safe

Ray





"Walker" wrote in message
...
I recently purchased the Wolverine grinding jig to go with my existing
grinder that runs at 3450. From all the reading I've done in this group,

it
is recommended to sharpen tools on a slow speed (1750) grinder. Seems its
easy to get a tool too hot and ruin the tempering if sharpened at 3450. At
times, I can see the edge of my tools discolor a little. Couple of
questions:

1) The documentation that came from Oneway with the jig recommended using

a
high speed grinder over a low speed grinder. Can someone give me some
thoughts on this. Why would they recommend slow speed? Oneway

contradicts
what most folks in here recommend.

2) Am I pressing to hard on the wheel with the tool. I certain don't mean
to be....I'm trying to have a light touch but sometimes I do get some
discoloration on the edges. I keep a cup of water next to the grinder to
frequently dip the tool in to cool the metal?

3) Should I go ahead and buy a slow speed grinder? I surely don't want

to
ruin any of my new expensive Sorby tools!!!

This jig sure beats trying to free hand!!!!

Thanks,
Walker






  #3   Report Post  
Dan Kozar
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
"Walker" wrote:

I recently purchased the Wolverine grinding jig to go with my existing
grinder that runs at 3450. From all the reading I've done in this group, it
is recommended to sharpen tools on a slow speed (1750) grinder. Seems its
easy to get a tool too hot and ruin the tempering if sharpened at 3450. At
times, I can see the edge of my tools discolor a little. Couple of
questions:

1) The documentation that came from Oneway with the jig recommended using a
high speed grinder over a low speed grinder. Can someone give me some
thoughts on this. Why would they recommend slow speed? Oneway contradicts
what most folks in here recommend.


When they say slow speed, I think that they are referring to really slow
speed grinders, such as Tormek

2) Am I pressing to hard on the wheel with the tool. I certain don't mean
to be....I'm trying to have a light touch but sometimes I do get some
discoloration on the edges. I keep a cup of water next to the grinder to
frequently dip the tool in to cool the metal?


Don't quench HSS

3) Should I go ahead and buy a slow speed grinder? I surely don't want to
ruin any of my new expensive Sorby tools!!!

This jig sure beats trying to free hand!!!!

Thanks,
Walker


--
Dan Kozar



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  #4   Report Post  
billh
 
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No, Oneway recommends a 3450 RPM grinder. They had a reason for it but I
can't remember it. However, they quite properly recommend that the correct
stone always be properly dressed which allows grinding to be done with less
heat. Also professional turners want sharpening to be done quickly since
time is money. I have a 1725 rpm grinder and will replace it with a regular
3450 if it ever fails. The slower speed is good when learning but after that
I don't think it is a benefit.
My machinist friends don't support the "you can't hurt HSS by overheating"
philosophy. They agree it is much less prone to damage but recommend you
learn to grind without bluing.
Billh

"Dan Kozar" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Walker" wrote:

I recently purchased the Wolverine grinding jig to go with my existing
grinder that runs at 3450. From all the reading I've done in this group,
it
is recommended to sharpen tools on a slow speed (1750) grinder. Seems
its
easy to get a tool too hot and ruin the tempering if sharpened at 3450.
At
times, I can see the edge of my tools discolor a little. Couple of
questions:

1) The documentation that came from Oneway with the jig recommended using
a
high speed grinder over a low speed grinder. Can someone give me some
thoughts on this. Why would they recommend slow speed? Oneway
contradicts
what most folks in here recommend.


When they say slow speed, I think that they are referring to really slow
speed grinders, such as Tormek

2) Am I pressing to hard on the wheel with the tool. I certain don't
mean
to be....I'm trying to have a light touch but sometimes I do get some
discoloration on the edges. I keep a cup of water next to the grinder to
frequently dip the tool in to cool the metal?


Don't quench HSS

3) Should I go ahead and buy a slow speed grinder? I surely don't want
to
ruin any of my new expensive Sorby tools!!!

This jig sure beats trying to free hand!!!!

Thanks,
Walker


--
Dan Kozar



remove NOSPAM



  #5   Report Post  
Bruce Ferguson
 
Posts: n/a
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I don't understand how a useing a faster grinder will make grinding time any
faster? Seems to me ginding time speed would depend on how fast you can
move the gouge from one side to the other and if you can do it correctly in
one shot or have to do it several times. Same thing with heat the longer
you have to leave the tool on the stone the hotter it will get.

Bruce


"billh" wrote in message
...
No, Oneway recommends a 3450 RPM grinder. They had a reason for it but I
can't remember it. However, they quite properly recommend that the correct
stone always be properly dressed which allows grinding to be done with

less
heat. Also professional turners want sharpening to be done quickly since
time is money. I have a 1725 rpm grinder and will replace it with a

regular
3450 if it ever fails. The slower speed is good when learning but after

that
I don't think it is a benefit.
My machinist friends don't support the "you can't hurt HSS by overheating"
philosophy. They agree it is much less prone to damage but recommend you
learn to grind without bluing.
Billh

"Dan Kozar" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Walker" wrote:

I recently purchased the Wolverine grinding jig to go with my existing
grinder that runs at 3450. From all the reading I've done in this

group,
it
is recommended to sharpen tools on a slow speed (1750) grinder. Seems
its
easy to get a tool too hot and ruin the tempering if sharpened at 3450.
At
times, I can see the edge of my tools discolor a little. Couple of
questions:

1) The documentation that came from Oneway with the jig recommended

using
a
high speed grinder over a low speed grinder. Can someone give me some
thoughts on this. Why would they recommend slow speed? Oneway
contradicts
what most folks in here recommend.


When they say slow speed, I think that they are referring to really slow
speed grinders, such as Tormek

2) Am I pressing to hard on the wheel with the tool. I certain don't
mean
to be....I'm trying to have a light touch but sometimes I do get some
discoloration on the edges. I keep a cup of water next to the grinder

to
frequently dip the tool in to cool the metal?


Don't quench HSS

3) Should I go ahead and buy a slow speed grinder? I surely don't

want
to
ruin any of my new expensive Sorby tools!!!

This jig sure beats trying to free hand!!!!

Thanks,
Walker


--
Dan Kozar



remove NOSPAM







  #6   Report Post  
Lyn J. Mangiameli
 
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In terms of speed of grinding, it really depends on how much you are
trying to remove. If all you are doing is dressing the bevel to renew an
edge, it really doesn't make much difference whether the speed is 1100,
1800 or 3600 (approximately). In these cases you are removing so little
metal it just isn't going to make any difference, except that the slower
speeds allow for a little more error if you don't have smooth movements.

When generating a new profile/geometry, of course faster is better
because a (relatively) large amount of material is being removed. I have
high speed six, low speed 8 and very low speed Tormek. If a lot of metal
needs to be removed on a tool or for other grinding tasks, I usually
prefer the high speed six, at least to get started.

As for HSS not being immune to overheating, take a look at the quotes
from Latrobe steel (a major supplier)in my article on principles of
sharpening that you can get a pdf of he

http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/lyn.html


Lyn



Bruce Ferguson wrote:
I don't understand how a useing a faster grinder will make grinding time any
faster? Seems to me ginding time speed would depend on how fast you can
move the gouge from one side to the other and if you can do it correctly in
one shot or have to do it several times. Same thing with heat the longer
you have to leave the tool on the stone the hotter it will get.

Bruce


"billh" wrote in message
...

No, Oneway recommends a 3450 RPM grinder. They had a reason for it but I
can't remember it. However, they quite properly recommend that the correct
stone always be properly dressed which allows grinding to be done with


less

heat. Also professional turners want sharpening to be done quickly since
time is money. I have a 1725 rpm grinder and will replace it with a


regular

3450 if it ever fails. The slower speed is good when learning but after


that

I don't think it is a benefit.
My machinist friends don't support the "you can't hurt HSS by overheating"
philosophy. They agree it is much less prone to damage but recommend you
learn to grind without bluing.
Billh


  #7   Report Post  
Dave Balderstone
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Bruce Ferguson
wrote:

I don't understand how a useing a faster grinder will make grinding time any
faster?


# of pieces of grit in contact with the metal per second?

Faster speed = more cuts into the steel in the same time.
  #8   Report Post  
Jim Gott
 
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Default

My machinist friends don't support the "you can't hurt HSS by overheating"
philosophy. They agree it is much less prone to damage but recommend you
learn to grind without bluing.
Billh BRBR

A member of our AAW chapter is a metallurgist, and he explained to us that
bluing will NOT make a HSS tool lose its temper. I don't recall the temperature
that makes steel turn blue, but he said that HSS is tempered much higher than
that. You would have to heat it to "straw color" to take away the temperature,
and an aluminum oxide wheel is not capable of getting HSS to the "straw" stage.
Carbon steel tools are the only tools you can't blue without losing the temper.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA
  #9   Report Post  
Dave Balderstone
 
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In article ,
Anonymous wrote:

Considering the very low percentage of shop time spent with
tools actually in contact with a grinding stone, the
speed difference (in terms of time saved) is not worth
considering.


I wasn't referring to time saved but that more metal is removed from
the tool in the same time when the wheel is spinning faster than when
it is spinning slower.

If that is not true, then why not use a staionary stone? It should be
just as fast to sharpen a tool on a stationary stone as on a grinder,
if I understand the argument being made... that the RPM of the grinding
wheel is not relelvant to the speed at which one can sharpen a tool.

If there's no difference between 1725 and 3450, why would you expect a
difference between 0 and 1725?
  #10   Report Post  
john smith
 
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What yer saying depends on whether the tools are HSS. Personally I've not
seen any Sorby M2 HSS gouges or chisels. So I'm assuming the original
poster is talking about A2 turning tools which are not HSS. If you blue a
A2 tool steel turning tool you will soften the edge. So what are the tools
being used? I grind at about 300 rpm; at that speed you have to try to burn
the tools. You are also much more in touch with whats happening at the
wheel. I can feel and hear when the grind is right or not. I can also move
much more slowly through what ever motion I need to get the perfect shape
and bevel.

"Ray Sandusky" wrote in message
...
Walker

3450 rpm is justfine
the temper can not be lost on a hss tool
do not heat and quench hss tools too often as that can cause the steel to
crack
press lightly - the 1way will help alot

get white wheels for the grinder - one at 80 grit and one at 120 - makes

the
grinder more versatile
make sure your wheels are trued and run smoothly
use a diamond tool to dress the wheel's face so it will cut and not burn

the
steel

did i firget anything?
good luck and be safe

Ray





"Walker" wrote in message
...
I recently purchased the Wolverine grinding jig to go with my existing
grinder that runs at 3450. From all the reading I've done in this

group,
it
is recommended to sharpen tools on a slow speed (1750) grinder. Seems

its
easy to get a tool too hot and ruin the tempering if sharpened at 3450.

At
times, I can see the edge of my tools discolor a little. Couple of
questions:

1) The documentation that came from Oneway with the jig recommended

using
a
high speed grinder over a low speed grinder. Can someone give me some
thoughts on this. Why would they recommend slow speed? Oneway

contradicts
what most folks in here recommend.

2) Am I pressing to hard on the wheel with the tool. I certain don't

mean
to be....I'm trying to have a light touch but sometimes I do get some
discoloration on the edges. I keep a cup of water next to the grinder to
frequently dip the tool in to cool the metal?

3) Should I go ahead and buy a slow speed grinder? I surely don't want

to
ruin any of my new expensive Sorby tools!!!

This jig sure beats trying to free hand!!!!

Thanks,
Walker










  #11   Report Post  
john smith
 
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The key word is high speed steel. A2 is not HSS, M2 is and as far as I know
Sorby doesn't offer M2 tools. Tempering temps for A2 range from 350 to 1000
degrees. M2 tempering temps are well above 1000 degrees; I think they are
around 1700 degrees. So no you won't soften M2 but you will soften A2 at
the edge. Straw-yellow color in tool steel occurs at 460 degrees, blue at
560 degrees well into the range to soften A2. You may have confused what
your friend was saying. If he was talking about hardening A2 then yes the
temp would be around 1700 degrees but for tempering (which is actually
softening the steel again) the temps are much lower. In a very general
sense, the higher the tempering temperature the softer you make the steel.

All temps are in Fahrenheit

"Jim Gott" wrote in message
...
A member of our AAW chapter is a metallurgist, and he explained to us that
bluing will NOT make a HSS tool lose its temper. I don't recall the

temperature
that makes steel turn blue, but he said that HSS is tempered much higher

than
that. You would have to heat it to "straw color" to take away the

temperature,
and an aluminum oxide wheel is not capable of getting HSS to the "straw"

stage.
Carbon steel tools are the only tools you can't blue without losing the

temper.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA



  #12   Report Post  
George
 
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How about this argument for a slow speed - lathe tools aren't the only
things you'll grind on the beast. Think of your plane and shave irons,
knives, carving tools, etc.

"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
I don't understand how a useing a faster grinder will make grinding time

any
faster?

"billh" wrote in message
...
No, Oneway recommends a 3450 RPM grinder. They had a reason for it but I
can't remember it.


"Dan Kozar" wrote in message
...
In article ,


"Walker" wrote:

I recently purchased the Wolverine grinding jig to go with my

existing
grinder that runs at 3450. From all the reading I've done in this

group,
it
is recommended to sharpen tools on a slow speed (1750) grinder.

Seems
its
easy to get a tool too hot and ruin the tempering if sharpened at

3450.


  #13   Report Post  
Jim Gott
 
Posts: n/a
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The key word is high speed steel. A2 is not HSS, M2 is and as far as I know
Sorby doesn't offer M2 tools. BRBR

I believe you're wrong about that. Quoting from the Packard catalog: "All the
Sorby tools we carry are made in Sheffield England out of M2 High Speed Steel."

I have several Sorby turning tools in my shop and all are marked HSS. Sorby
also makes carving tools which may be A1. These may be what you're speaking
about. Carving tools are usually not HSS. Carvers want a sharper edge than HSS
provides.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA
  #14   Report Post  
J. Clarke
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Jim Gott wrote:

My machinist friends don't support the "you can't hurt HSS by
overheating" philosophy. They agree it is much less prone to damage but
recommend you learn to grind without bluing.
Billh BRBR

A member of our AAW chapter is a metallurgist, and he explained to us that
bluing will NOT make a HSS tool lose its temper. I don't recall the
temperature that makes steel turn blue, but he said that HSS is tempered
much higher than that. You would have to heat it to "straw color" to take
away the temperature, and an aluminum oxide wheel is not capable of
getting HSS to the "straw" stage. Carbon steel tools are the only tools
you can't blue without losing the temper.


I think you've either misremembered or misunderstood something he said.
Straw color is about 425F, blue is 600 for carbon steel. For other steel
formulations the color vs temperature scale changes, but straw is always
cooler than blue.

M2 is typically drawn at 1000F, which is a faint dull red glow, just barely
visible in sunlight, so just getting it blue shouldn't have much effect on
the temper.

-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA


--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
  #16   Report Post  
cindy drozda
 
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Why does OneWay recomend a 3450 grinder? I had a chance to pick the
owner's brain once, and he had some interesting things to say about
grinding that does contradict the "commonly held wisdom". First of all, he
says:"the grinding wheels are designed to run at 3450 and will perform
their best at that speed". Next I asked why people seem to think they get
better performance at slower speeds (like 1725), and he said that
unbalanced grinding wheels will vibrate a lot causing problems that are
minimized by running at a slower speed. He also mentioned that not all
grinding wheels are created equal, and not everyone dresses their wheels
properly. Of course, good quality wheels, a balancing kit, and a "proper"
dressing tool are made by OneWay! He also said that something that happens
often with woodturners is that they have a mish-mash of different tools
made from different steels. A wheel that grinds carbon steel well will not
work as well with high speed steel and vice versa. And he recommends an 8"
wheel over 6" because the hollow grind is not as severe. (I should have
gotten into: isn't the surface speed different for a 6" and
an 8" wheel? Does this mean that the 8" wheels are made differently to
work their best at a higher speed? And what about when the wheel wears
out?) Another question I had was: Is my cheapo grinder good enough, or
should I buy a new Baldor or whatever? The answer was that if you balance
the grinding wheels even the cheapest grinder will run smooth. So spend
your money on wheels, not grinders. And balance them! And dress them
whenever they get loaded up, properly!

Anyway, he seemed to have done a lot of research on grinding and wheels
and stuff. So I bought a new OneWay wheel with balancing kits for my 25
year old El Cheapo brand grinder. The result: Very Smooth! The glitch: the
balancing kits only work on wheels with 1" center holes, which seems to
only be available on their wheels. The Norton SG wheels have a 5/8 hole or
something so I couldn't make a side by side comparison with both being
balanced. The balanced OneWay vs the unbalanced Norton: OneWay wins!
Another glitch/weirdness: The OneWay wheels seem to be graded differently,
or something. Their 80 grit acts like about a 100 grit Norton for grinding
speed and finish. I've heard that the Norton SG is better, but is also
more expensive. And I
can't get them balanced like the OneWay.

Now as soon as I sell something I'm buying a new 8" grinder (El Cheapo,
probably), OneWay wheels, more balancers, and maybe even the "proper"
dressing attachment for my Wolverine.

Happy grinding to all!

CD
boulder, co


  #17   Report Post  
john smith
 
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I checked sorby's website and they don't mention their tools being made of
M2 HSS. My guess is packard has it wrong

All the turning tool sellers and manufacturers said there tools were made of
A2 HSS a couple of years ago but most have removed HSS from their tools
cause it was a mistake...
"Jim Gott" wrote in message
...

The key word is high speed steel. A2 is not HSS, M2 is and as far as I

know
Sorby doesn't offer M2 tools. BRBR

I believe you're wrong about that. Quoting from the Packard catalog: "All

the
Sorby tools we carry are made in Sheffield England out of M2 High Speed

Steel."

I have several Sorby turning tools in my shop and all are marked HSS.

Sorby
also makes carving tools which may be A1. These may be what you're

speaking
about. Carving tools are usually not HSS. Carvers want a sharper edge than

HSS
provides.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA



  #18   Report Post  
Dave Peebles
 
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Hello John,

I found this under the FAQ from Sorby....

- There is a difference in the way Robert Sorby tools are hardened and
tempered. The steels may be the same specification but are waranteed
Sheffield High Speed Steel. The heat treatment process is vital to the
performance of the tool. If the blade is not heat treated correctly the
blade could shatter during use. If the heat treatment is incorrect then the
cutting edge cannot be sharpened correctly, it will not hold an edge. In
adjunct to this Robert Sorby gouges can be used to the full length of the
flute, without loss of edge retention.

But it is very easy to tell HSS from carbon steel while grinding it. All my
Sorby's seem to be HSS.

Best wishes,
Dave

David Peebles
Lyons, Ohio
Revolutions Woodturning
www.bowlturner.com

"john smith" wrote in message
news:3ob%c.337968$gE.66938@pd7tw3no...
I checked sorby's website and they don't mention their tools being made of
M2 HSS. My guess is packard has it wrong

All the turning tool sellers and manufacturers said there tools were made
of
A2 HSS a couple of years ago but most have removed HSS from their tools
cause it was a mistake...



  #19   Report Post  
Walker
 
Posts: n/a
Default

What yer saying depends on whether the tools are HSS. Personally I've not
seen any Sorby M2 HSS gouges or chisels. So I'm assuming the original
poster is talking about A2 turning tools which are not HSS. If you blue a
A2 tool steel turning tool you will soften the edge. So what are the

tools
being used?


I have both non-HSS and HSS steel tools. When I purchased my lathe, I also
bought a non-HSS beginner set of tools. My plan was to buy the beginner set
of tools and then over time buy better tools to replace the cheapies. I
have recently just purchased a Sorby HSS 3/8" bowl gouge and Sorby HSS 3/4"
roughing gouge.

Walker


  #20   Report Post  
Jim Gott
 
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I checked sorby's website and they don't mention their tools being made of
M2 HSS. My guess is packard has it wrong

All the turning tool sellers and manufacturers said there tools were made of
A2 HSS a couple of years ago but most have removed HSS from their tools
cause it was a mistake... BRBR

Why can't you admit it? Go into any store or look in any catalog that sells
Sorby turning tools and you will see "HSS" stamped on every gouge, skew,
scraper that Sorby makes. If Sorby turning tools were not HSS they wouldn't be
able to compete with all the other Manufacturers that are. As someone else
said, it's easy to tell HSS from carbon steel by the way they look on the
grinding wheel. HSS makes a light yellow spark, and carbon steel makes a
darker, orange spark that breaks up and bounces all over the place. Trust me,
Sorby turning tools are HSS.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA


  #23   Report Post  
Darrell Feltmate
 
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Unless I miss my guess, the origin of this post dealt with grinding speeds
for sharpening woodturning tools. I use a standard aluminum oxide wheel on a
high speed (3470 rpm) grinder. The white wheels wear too fast for me. On the
other hand I use jigs to sharpen. Yes I can free hand and yes I free hand
and the jigs are as fast and better for a lot of tools and grinds. Besides,
if you are going to use wheels over 60 or maybe 80 grit, it is murder to
feel the wheel and jigs are almost a necessity.


--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com


  #25   Report Post  
no name given
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Only thing I have to admit is it's been a couple of years since I needed to
buy turning tools. At that time everyone was on the HSS band wagon but all
the tools except Glazier (Sp?) tools were A2 and as I said before A2 isn't
HSS. And it seemed that the HSS was eventually dropped and only the A2 name
used. So one of two things is happening. Either M2 is now the standard and
non of the turning tool websites like Sorby... feel the need to advertise
the use of M2, other than Hamlet Tools. Or most manufacturers are still
bull****ing an ignorant public by saying their tools are made of HSS.

Can you still buy "Carbon steel" turning tools anymore, if you can don't
waste yer money.

I'd like to see you tell which is A2 or M2 just by the sparks.

Trust me A2 isn't HSS

"Jim Gott" wrote in message
...
I checked sorby's website and they don't mention their tools being made
of
M2 HSS. My guess is packard has it wrong

All the turning tool sellers and manufacturers said there tools were made
of
A2 HSS a couple of years ago but most have removed HSS from their tools
cause it was a mistake... BRBR

Why can't you admit it? Go into any store or look in any catalog that
sells
Sorby turning tools and you will see "HSS" stamped on every gouge, skew,
scraper that Sorby makes. If Sorby turning tools were not HSS they
wouldn't be
able to compete with all the other Manufacturers that are. As someone else
said, it's easy to tell HSS from carbon steel by the way they look on the
grinding wheel. HSS makes a light yellow spark, and carbon steel makes a
darker, orange spark that breaks up and bounces all over the place. Trust
me,
Sorby turning tools are HSS.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA





  #26   Report Post  
Lobby Dosser
 
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"no name given" wrote in
news:mlQ0d.397076$gE.198586@pd7tw3no:


Can you still buy "Carbon steel" turning tools anymore, if you can
don't waste yer money.


The Harbor Fright [sic] carbon steel tools are well worth the money, if you
are just learning to grind.
  #27   Report Post  
Peter Teubel
 
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On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 04:34:26 GMT, "no name given" wrote:

M2 is now the standard and
none of the turning tool websites like Sorby... feel the need to advertise
the use of M2, other than Hamlet Tools.


You got it.

Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com
  #28   Report Post  
Mike Paulson
 
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Personally I've not seen any Sorby M2 HSS gouges or chisels

Sorby turning tools sold in the US are M2 HSS. I own a lot of them as
well as several other brands. It is easy to tell the difference between
M2 and carbon steel by their edge holding ability, the sparks off the
grinder, and what effect bluing has on the edge. Nearly all turning tools
currently sold in the US by reputable dealers are M2 or better.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co


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