I've got a bathtub where the drain is leaking.
After punching a hole in the ceiling, I see that the gasket under the
bathtub is shot.

I suspect that the construction is usual: there is a screw in chrome
plated tube that goes thru the topside of the tub, screwing into a
cast brass elbow below the tube.

Trouble is, the plumbing is the 1942 original installed when the house
was built. There's a fair amount of corrosion under the tub around
where the gasket has been leaking. Also, the elbow has about two
inches of clearance between two beams, one on each side. The brass
elbow is screwed onto galvanized fitted piping that goes all the way
to the cast rion stack. Even if I cut that piping, there is no room to
get a wrench onto that brass elbow to break it free.

I've seen special wrenches made for the job of gripping the upper
inserted tubing. However, I don't see how they can grip this design of
upper tubing plus I suspect that the torque required will be great due
to the corrosion.

Any suggestions of how to free the upper tubing?

tnx,
Doug

"Doug" wrote in message
...


I've got a bathtub where the drain is leaking.
After punching a hole in the ceiling, I see that the gasket under the
bathtub is shot.

I suspect that the construction is usual: there is a screw in chrome
plated tube that goes thru the topside of the tub, screwing into a
cast brass elbow below the tube.

Trouble is, the plumbing is the 1942 original installed when the house
was built. There's a fair amount of corrosion under the tub around
where the gasket has been leaking. Also, the elbow has about two
inches of clearance between two beams, one on each side. The brass
elbow is screwed onto galvanized fitted piping that goes all the way
to the cast rion stack. Even if I cut that piping, there is no room to
get a wrench onto that brass elbow to break it free.

I've seen special wrenches made for the job of gripping the upper
inserted tubing. However, I don't see how they can grip this design of
upper tubing plus I suspect that the torque required will be great due
to the corrosion.

Any suggestions of how to free the upper tubing?

tnx,
Doug

Can you get a sawsall with a long bi-metal blade in a position to cut the
pipe right at the bottom of the tub? There is usually enough room for the
saw blade because of the failed gasket.

Going back will be no problem if you use a high quality schedule 40 PVC pop
up tub drain like the one made by Watco. It is a complete glue together
except for the through the tub portion which is threaded and screws in from
the top.

Colbyt

On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 18:07:39 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
.. .


I've got a bathtub where the drain is leaking.
After punching a hole in the ceiling, I see that the gasket under the
bathtub is shot.

I suspect that the construction is usual: there is a screw in chrome
plated tube that goes thru the topside of the tub, screwing into a
cast brass elbow below the tube.

Trouble is, the plumbing is the 1942 original installed when the house
was built. There's a fair amount of corrosion under the tub around
where the gasket has been leaking. Also, the elbow has about two
inches of clearance between two beams, one on each side. The brass
elbow is screwed onto galvanized fitted piping that goes all the way
to the cast rion stack. Even if I cut that piping, there is no room to
get a wrench onto that brass elbow to break it free.

I've seen special wrenches made for the job of gripping the upper
inserted tubing. However, I don't see how they can grip this design of
upper tubing plus I suspect that the torque required will be great due
to the corrosion.

Any suggestions of how to free the upper tubing?

tnx,
Doug

Can you get a sawsall with a long bi-metal blade in a position to cut the
pipe right at the bottom of the tub? There is usually enough room for the
saw blade because of the failed gasket.

Going back will be no problem if you use a high quality schedule 40 PVC pop
up tub drain like the one made by Watco. It is a complete glue together
except for the through the tub portion which is threaded and screws in from
the top.

Colbyt


I'm not sure that cutting the pipe will help.
I still wouldn't be able to get a wrench in there to turn or break
free the cast elbow.

I may try lifting the chrome drain lip with a chisel and getting some
penetrating oil in there then try to unscrew it after a day or two.
As long as I don't crack the tub....

Doug

Doug wrote:
I've got a bathtub where the drain is leaking.
After punching a hole in the ceiling, I see that the gasket under the
bathtub is shot.

I suspect that the construction is usual: there is a screw in chrome
plated tube that goes thru the topside of the tub, screwing into a
cast brass elbow below the tube.

Trouble is, the plumbing is the 1942 original installed when the
house
was built. There's a fair amount of corrosion under the tub around
where the gasket has been leaking. Also, the elbow has about two
inches of clearance between two beams, one on each side. The brass
elbow is screwed onto galvanized fitted piping that goes all the way
to the cast rion stack. Even if I cut that piping, there is no room
to
get a wrench onto that brass elbow to break it free.

I've seen special wrenches made for the job of gripping the upper
inserted tubing. However, I don't see how they can grip this design
of
upper tubing plus I suspect that the torque required will be great
due
to the corrosion.

Any suggestions of how to free the upper tubing?

tnx,
Doug


Due to the difficulty in getting at it, I'd sure be tempted to dig out
what part of the gasket remains and apply some sealant to see if that
will do the trick.

Sure, it's not the "complete fix", but that sealant will do a better
job than the shot gasket has been doing for however many decades since
it began to fail.


Joe

"Doug" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 18:07:39 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
.. .


I've got a bathtub where the drain is leaking.
After punching a hole in the ceiling, I see that the gasket under the
bathtub is shot.

I suspect that the construction is usual: there is a screw in chrome
plated tube that goes thru the topside of the tub, screwing into a
cast brass elbow below the tube.

Trouble is, the plumbing is the 1942 original installed when the house
was built. There's a fair amount of corrosion under the tub around
where the gasket has been leaking. Also, the elbow has about two
inches of clearance between two beams, one on each side. The brass
elbow is screwed onto galvanized fitted piping that goes all the way
to the cast rion stack. Even if I cut that piping, there is no room to
get a wrench onto that brass elbow to break it free.

I've seen special wrenches made for the job of gripping the upper
inserted tubing. However, I don't see how they can grip this design of
upper tubing plus I suspect that the torque required will be great due
to the corrosion.

Any suggestions of how to free the upper tubing?

tnx,
Doug

Can you get a sawsall with a long bi-metal blade in a position to cut the
pipe right at the bottom of the tub? There is usually enough room for the
saw blade because of the failed gasket.

Going back will be no problem if you use a high quality schedule 40 PVC
pop
up tub drain like the one made by Watco. It is a complete glue together
except for the through the tub portion which is threaded and screws in
from
the top.

Colbyt


I'm not sure that cutting the pipe will help.
I still wouldn't be able to get a wrench in there to turn or break
free the cast elbow.

I may try lifting the chrome drain lip with a chisel and getting some
penetrating oil in there then try to unscrew it after a day or two.
As long as I don't crack the tub....

Doug



Can you email me a picture of this?

If reading in the group email is mangled. You can figure it out.

If responding to the email I sent, reply will work.


Colbyt

On Thu, 3 Mar 2005 20:09:53 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 18:07:39 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
.. .


I've got a bathtub where the drain is leaking.
After punching a hole in the ceiling, I see that the gasket under the
bathtub is shot.

I suspect that the construction is usual: there is a screw in chrome
plated tube that goes thru the topside of the tub, screwing into a
cast brass elbow below the tube.

Trouble is, the plumbing is the 1942 original installed when the house
was built. There's a fair amount of corrosion under the tub around
where the gasket has been leaking. Also, the elbow has about two
inches of clearance between two beams, one on each side. The brass
elbow is screwed onto galvanized fitted piping that goes all the way
to the cast rion stack. Even if I cut that piping, there is no room to
get a wrench onto that brass elbow to break it free.

I've seen special wrenches made for the job of gripping the upper
inserted tubing. However, I don't see how they can grip this design of
upper tubing plus I suspect that the torque required will be great due
to the corrosion.

Any suggestions of how to free the upper tubing?

tnx,
Doug

Can you get a sawsall with a long bi-metal blade in a position to cut the
pipe right at the bottom of the tub? There is usually enough room for the
saw blade because of the failed gasket.

Going back will be no problem if you use a high quality schedule 40 PVC
pop
up tub drain like the one made by Watco. It is a complete glue together
except for the through the tub portion which is threaded and screws in
from
the top.

Colbyt


I'm not sure that cutting the pipe will help.
I still wouldn't be able to get a wrench in there to turn or break
free the cast elbow.

I may try lifting the chrome drain lip with a chisel and getting some
penetrating oil in there then try to unscrew it after a day or two.
As long as I don't crack the tub....

Doug



Can you email me a picture of this?

If reading in the group email is mangled. You can figure it out.

If responding to the email I sent, reply will work.


Colbyt


Thanks to all of those who offered advise but I've solved the problem.

I used my Dremel motor tool with a carbide cutoff blade to slice a
wedge out of the upper (inner) drain piece.
Then using a hammar and chisel, I was able to knock it loose and turn
it out.

I dropped a new gasket between the lower elbow and screwed in a new
upper drain piece with lots of plumbers putty. So far, so good.

Doug