I have a set of Greenlee knockout punches used for, obviously, creating
holes for electrical conduit. I've cut holes in some fairly thick metal
over the years, and these tools have never flinched.

I'm wondering if they're sturdy enough to create a hole in a stainless
steel sink. I'm not sure of the gauge. It's not the lightweight
super-thin junk you find at home centers for $50, but it's not
commercial, either. I'd hate to ruin either the sink or the tools.

I'm not squeamish, and I'm reasonably sure this will get the job done,
but if anyone knows (maybe the hard way) why I shouldn't try this,
please chime in.

Thanks.

Subject: Greenlee knockout punch on SS sink?
Newsgroup: alt.home.repair
= Robert Barr = wrote:

I have a set of Greenlee knockout punches used for, obviously, creating
holes for electrical conduit. I've cut holes in some fairly thick metal
over the years, and these tools have never flinched.

I'm wondering if they're sturdy enough to create a hole in a stainless
steel sink. I'm not sure of the gauge. It's not the lightweight
super-thin junk you find at home centers for $50, but it's not
commercial, either. I'd hate to ruin either the sink or the tools.

I'm not squeamish, and I'm reasonably sure this will get the job done,
but if anyone knows (maybe the hard way) why I shouldn't try this,
please chime in.


Do you have the hydraulic set? Just curious... I've punched considerable metal
with the hydraulic set. Let us know.




--

-Graham

Remove the snails to email

On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 00:26:23 GMT, Robert Barr
wrote:

I have a set of Greenlee knockout punches used for, obviously, creating
holes for electrical conduit. I've cut holes in some fairly thick metal
over the years, and these tools have never flinched.

I'm wondering if they're sturdy enough to create a hole in a stainless
steel sink. I'm not sure of the gauge. It's not the lightweight
super-thin junk you find at home centers for $50, but it's not
commercial, either. I'd hate to ruin either the sink or the tools.

I'm not squeamish, and I'm reasonably sure this will get the job done,
but if anyone knows (maybe the hard way) why I shouldn't try this,
please chime in.

Thanks.



You may not find good results with a regular knock out set. They
do make knock outs for stainless. They are expensive.

Barry

Do you have the hydraulic set? Just curious... I've punched considerable metal
with the hydraulic set. Let us know.

Unfortunately, I could never justify the cost of a hydraulic set. This
is the manual type which I use a ratchet on.

I've seen these dies rated at 10 gauge (but 10 gauge of what?), and the
good Elkay sinks are 18 and 20 gauge, so the thickness isn't a
challenge. I'm pretty certain that SS is tougher than the stamped stuff
that electrical boxes are made of.

I guess we will see soon.

"Robert Barr" wrote in message
m...


Do you have the hydraulic set? Just curious... I've punched
considerable metal
with the hydraulic set. Let us know.

Unfortunately, I could never justify the cost of a hydraulic set. This
is the manual type which I use a ratchet on.

I've seen these dies rated at 10 gauge (but 10 gauge of what?), and the
good Elkay sinks are 18 and 20 gauge, so the thickness isn't a
challenge. I'm pretty certain that SS is tougher than the stamped stuff
that electrical boxes are made of.

The 10 gauge rating is on mild steel. I don't have my greenlee catalog in
front of me but, they are also rated for SS in thinner sections ( I think to
16 gauge )
Remember that the conduit punches punch odd sized holes, they are marked
for the size of the conduit not the hole!

William.....


I guess we will see soon.

Depends on the punch kit & the punches

IMO 10 gage stainless is going to be tough to punch without the
hydraulic setup

Here's so info on a Greenlee punch for use with hydrauliuc tool.

28160 - Greenlee
28160-Slug Splitter Punch 1-1/4" Conduit Size (NEW)
Slug-Splitter heavy-duty punches are designed to punch up through 10
gauge stainless steel. Excellent abrasion resistance for punching
fiberglass and plastic.